joe_padavano

Post a photo of the servo. As others have pointed out, GM only used a two-piece speedo cable on cars with cruise. There were also aftermarket cruise control units and also speed sensors for early trip computers. Hard to tell without seeing what we're talking about.

Video from Hamburg. Sorry I missed it.

Looking forward to that next weekend. It's always a great swap meet (except for the one year with the freak heavy snowstorm)

Your current ground wire is fine.

Yes, that will work

Connect them at the distributor power feed terminal.

Most one-wire alternators are 12SI type. The CS130 has provisions for both the idiot light and no light. There are four terminals in the CS130 connector, P, L, F, and S. The "S" terminal is the sense wire that sets the voltage and should be run to the junction block, typically on the inner fender. Most people are lazy and just connect it to the BATT stud on the alternator, but then it doesn't account for the voltage drop in the harness. The "F" terminal is the field terminal and this is used if you have a voltmeter instead of an idiot light. This should get a switched 12V signal (power on in the RUN position). The CS130 has an internal resistor that takes the place of the filament in the idiot light and is used to turn the regulator on. The "L" terminal is for the idiot light and connects to that wire in the stock harness. You can use either the F or the L terminals, you don't need both. The "P" terminal is for computer control functions. You can ignore it. Just leave it unconnected. I have a CS130 in my 1962 Olds. I used the L terminal and the OEM idiot light. It's been working great for over a decade. Be sure that there is a good ground path from the rear alternator housing to ground. The factory installations of the CS130 have a support bracket bolted to the rear frame that doubles as this ground path. Most 1960s alternator brackets do not. Run a ground strap if needed. There is actually a TSB out on this, as the early CS130 installations lacked this ground path and suffered premature regulator failures.

Depending on model year, the bypass and resistor wires are mutually exclusive - one is connected only in START, the other only in RUN. A common failure mode is when the RUN wire gets a break, the car will fire then die as soon as the key is turned to RUN.

When I said "solid copper" I meant not a resistor. Stranded is fine. Poor word choice on my part. I would not bridge the terminals, as that can lead to sneak circuits.

Doesn't fix the problem of the one-wire alternator not charging at idle.

I'm shocked, SHOCKED I tell you...

The thing that I really find hilarious is that the aftermarket vendors who sell these one-wire alternators ALSO sell a $35 module that returns the GEN light function that you paid extra to disable in the first place. 🤣 https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/98

1. the BROWN wire powers feeds circuits that need to be powered with the key in either RUN or ACC (think radio) 2. the PURPLE wire is the START circuit feed that powers the starter solenoid via the NSS 3. the RED wire is the power feed to the ignition switch that is hot all the time. In the original harness it would have been protected by a fusible link. 4. the PINK wire feeds circuits that are only powered when the key is in RUN but not ACC. 4A. the fuzzy WHITE wire is the resistor wire that feeds reduced voltage to the points after starting, only when the switch is in the RUN position. If you have an electronic distributor this wire needs to be replaced with solid copper. 5. the YELLOW wire is the bypass wire that feeds full battery voltage to the points only when the key is in the START position. You need both this wire and the replaced resistor wire to ensure the ignition system gets power both when cranking and when running. 6. the GREEN wire is the lamp test function for the HOT lamp. The hot sender provided ground to the lamp when the engine overheats. This wire does the same thing when the key is in the START position. If you are not using the idiot light you don't need it. 7. the WHITE wire to the voltage regulator should be a resistor wire that provides the signal to turn on the regulator. If you have a 12SI alternator this would connect to the #1 terminal on that alternator. If you have a one-wire alternator you can't connect this wire and the alternator won't be charging at idle as a result. 8. the RED/WHITE wire is just using a second set of contacts in the ignition switch to avoid overloading a single set. You want to keep that if you keep the OEM switch.

Are you looking for the block casting number or the VIN derivative stamp?

The factory shop manuals will always be a better choice than the cliff notes. And have you looked on ebay? The factory manuals for the OP's Buick are running about $25. Here's one for $22.50.

Welcome but you are responding to a sixteen year old thread. All 1973-up Olds motors used EGR. All small block Olds intakes from 1964-1990 bolt up but as I've noted, the ports in the 260 intakes and the A5 intakes used on the 1985-90 307 motors are small and will cause a flow mismatch on other SBO heads. Yes, the A4 aluminum intakes from the 1981-84 307s bolt directly to the 350. They don't flow any better than the OEM iron intake but as you note, they are 1/3 the weight.

Sonax P/N 34910S-01

Pretty much any shop that sells TH400 parts should be able to source that stator shaft.

Be aware that your 66 has a switch-pitch TH425. These 1966-67 transmissions used a unique torque converter. Fatsco has them on an exchange basis. That damaged shaft is the stator shaft and fortunately it's common between the TH425 and TH400 (and also common between switch-pitch and non-switch-pitch transmissions) so that should be relatively easy to find. Original GM P/N is 8623177. The smaller shaft is the turbine shaft, and fortunately it does not appear to be damaged. This part IS unique to the switch-pitch transmissions.

There are more than a few on the market already.

I frequently have people ask me at cruise nights if my car is for sale. I reply that everything has a price. I also know that they have no intention of paying anywhere close to what I have into it, nor do they even have a clue as to what it costs to put together a reliable running, driving car. I usually point out to them that the price they want to pay is likely a fraction of my investment, and my labor was free. That's when they walk away.

Curb weight is about 4200 lbs. As for electrification, here's a kit that GM currently sells. The battery pack took up the entire bed in the El Camino they used as a demonstrator. Total cost is well into five figures.

Actually, I think pricing is becoming less regional. The interwebs and high-end auctions have everyone convinced that their ran-when-parked POS is worth a million bucks.

Your drawing unfortunately doesn't specify which way is forward. 😉

OK, you've now exceeded my knowledge of Fords. 😁 Thanks for the correction. In that case, definitely look at bad control arm bushings or damaged control arms.