joe_padavano

As of last Sunday, seen on Rodeo Drive. https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/g61145927/fathers-day-concours-rodeo-drive-classic-cars/?source=nl&utm_source=nl_aut&utm_medium=email&date=061824&utm_campaign=nl35757931&user_email=7d8d18d92fd5b4f7586e484db96ea3a71e3a3912072f9602d11380209f78d057&GID=7d8d18d92fd5b4f7586e484db96ea3a71e3a3912072f9602d11380209f78d057&utm_term=TEST- NEW TEST - Sending List - AM 180D Clicks%2C NON AM 90D Opens%2C Both Subbed Last 30D

The code was stamped on the knockouts on the original keys, as well as on the door lock and ignition lock cylinders.

Let's back up. Did you first fix the parasitic drain? Shoveling money into new parts without first fixing the underlying problem is a great way to throw money away and introduce new and creative failure modes in the process.

The letter keys started with the 1967 model year. Even though the 67 and 68 keys still used the octagon and round heads, the blades are still the same as on the later rectangle and oval head blanks

600 CFM is far too small for a 455. The factory Qjet was 750 CFM. Also, an aftermarket E-brock carb will be calibrated for a Chevy 350. You will need to have the patience and skills to change jets and rods to match your engine's needs.

Glenn, unfortunately, turning the ignition lock cylinder like that requires the key in addition to the paper clip. The OP does not have the keys. All 1935-1966 GM cars use the same key blade. Yes, there are octagon and oval head versions, but unlike later years, these both have the same blade with the same grooves on the side and you can slide either one into all the lock cylinders on the vehicle. Obviously the lock won't turn if the key isn't cut correctly, but for these cars you can cut an oval key to operate the ignition and an octagon to operate the trunk if you desire. I can't speak to Rivieras, but all 1966 Oldsmobiles used the same key for the doors and ignition. The door lock cylinder will have a four character code stamped in it. This code can be looked up in a Curtis code book to provide the proper cuts to make a new key. That unfortunately won't help with the trunk. The glove box lock also won't help with the trunk as the glove box (and console) locks only use four or five of the six tumblers in the trunk lock (depending on the specific lock cylinder style). You can sometimes get the trunk open by removing the back seat and using a long stack of extensions to unbolt the lock mechanism from the inside of the trunklid.

1406 is 600 CFM

In the US that number is currently 60% and dropping.

The pumpkin is offset, but the axle flanges are not. There is a stub shaft that comes out of the passenger side of the center section so that the flanges and thus inboard CV joints are in the same place relative to the control arm pivot points. Otherwise the front suspension would be problematic.

You are going to be there a loooooong time if you start with 600

No, they are different RH/LH. Also, there was a mid-year changed in Toro drive axles. Early 1967 cars used the 1966 style round type, later 1967 cars used the 1968 type triangular.

There are a number of ongoing development efforts for safe H2 storage in vehicles. The bigger problem is safe refueling.

For a long time ebay encouraged sellers to include multiple keywords to increase visibility of their ads, since more sales equate to more ebay profits.

Federal highway funds for the interstate system come from federal taxes. The CA initiative covers state taxes that fund state-owned roads. Yeah, there are still state highways that see out-of-state users, but the reality is that most wear on state roads comes from local users.

^^^THIS! Here is a screenshot from a Plymouth steering wheel center that came up in one of my standard searches for Oldsmobile parts. And yeah, I've been using the Boolean "-" function in my search strings forever. At some point you bump up against their character string limit. Also, since these same sellers will put "Plymouth" in an add for an Olds part that I might be interested in, that just hurts your search function.

You are correct. Many of us who do not own EVs are not aware of the extra tax, so my apologies about that mis-information. And alternative fuels are yet another reason to go to a weight/mileage based tax for road funds. The roads don't care how the vehicle is powered, only that it creates wear and tear on the road, and that is purely a function of weight and mileage.

This is spot on. All new cars are designed first in a wind tunnel, and that is done with the windows closed. This is how the cars are tested and ranked for CAFE mileage ratings. Older cars with square fronts created far more turbulence. Turbulent flow is higher drag but more conformal to the shape, which actually reduced the pressure differential when driving with the windows open and reduced buffeting. This is the classic dimples on the golf ball; the dimples increase surface drag, but the conformal flow prevents the pressure drag that is a far larger percentage of the total drag on the golf ball. No, you don't want to take a ball peen hammer to your car, since the teardrop shape of all new cars provides an even lower drag.

I'm starting the pool on how soon this thread gets locked.

Few people live 100 miles from their workplace. And to answer your question, yes. I just bought a 1969 car to use as a daily driver, replacing my 1985 car. I have zero qualms about driving it anywhere.

The Calif proposal specifically replaces the state gas tax. Of course the state has no control over federal taxes.

Did you actually READ the articles in the links you posted???

I'd prefer a mileage and weight-based tax vs a gas tax. My older cars don't rack up a lot of miles, and 6,000+ lb SUVs that are used for daily drivers do a lot more damage to roads.

Why? Because you'd rather continue to subsidize road costs for EVs that don't pay gas taxes. I think this is a great thing.

If there is any rust at all, media blasting is the way to go. No, you won't warp the panels if you do it correctly.

I'll also add that I've driven a number of new rental cars in Europe that had speed limit detection and warning systems. One thing I noticed is that about 20% of the time or more, the speed limit indicated on the dash did not match the signs I was driving past. Compounding the problem was that temporary speed limits like work areas usually were not in the database. There are too many ways that this can go sideways. Of course, self-driving cars were supposed to make us all safer. How's that working out?