joe_padavano

The Toronado section is at the back of the 1966 Chassis Service Manual as an appendix. I have to be honest - if this shop couldn't find the Toro section in the CSM, I have significant doubt about their ability to find a problem in the car. 😲

I was fortunate to get a tour of David Cammack's Tucker collection before he passed away and donated it to the AACA museum. What an amazing collection of cars, prototypes, literature, NOS parts, experimental engines... just amazing.

The letters designate the key blank. Starting with the 1967 model year, GM used different groove configurations on the sides of the blade each year to increase the number of potential key combinations. Keep in mind that with only six tumblers of five different heights, there are only 7,776 possible key configurations (actually less since they didn't use keys that were six of the same tumblers, for example). GM built millions of vehicles each year that used these keys. The key blanks rotated every four years. A (ignition) and B (trunk) were used in 1967, 71, 75, 79. C and D were used 1968, 72, 76. E and H were used 1969, 73, 77. J and K were used 1970, 74, 78. These appear to be aftermarket.

As we've seen time and time again, ANYTHING will be ripe for abuse. In any case, here are the definitions in the text of the law: "Antique motor vehicle" means every motor vehicle, as defined in this section, which was actually manufactured or designated by the manufacturer as a model manufactured in a calendar year not less than 25 years prior to January 1 of each calendar year and is owned solely as a collector's item. "Collector" means a person who owns three or more vehicles and who collects, purchases, acquires, trades, or disposes of such vehicles, or parts thereof, for his own use in order to preserve, restore, and maintain such vehicles for hobby or historical purposes. "Collector motor vehicle" means a motor vehicle owned by a collector that is used primarily in shows, parades, charitable functions, and historical exhibitions for display, maintenance, and preservation and is not used primarily for transportation. I have to agree with jdome. Since the collector car registration specifically prohibits using it for cars that qualify for an antique registration, I see this as creating another category. The antique category specifically states "manufactured or designated by the manufacturer as a model manufactured in a calendar year not less than 25 years prior". The new collector car designation would apply to recreations, kit cars, etc.

Modern fillers adhere to epoxy primers. Priming first also keeps the surface clean.

Glenn, the way I read this, the Collector Vehicle plates are for vehicles that do not qualify for Antique Vehicle plates. In the full text of the law, it says this: F. No collector motor vehicle shall be registered as an antique vehicle pursuant to з 46.2-730 or as a military surplus motor vehicle pursuant to з 46.2-730.1.

Typical of movie cars (and movie stars 😝). Think about the Camaro that was used as a stand-in for the Challenger at the end of Vanishing Point.

Nope. The Northstar installation uses the same control arms and spindles from the FWD cars. The steering rack and tie rods are replaced with rigid links that lock the steering in place. Those have not yet been installed in this photo. This is exactly what GM did when they used the Citation FWD drivetrain in the back of the Pontiac Fiero. Fiat also did this when they used the 128 drivetrain in the back of the X/1-9.

In the front with long tubes.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/twin-turbo-tucker-replica-fabricated-rob-ida/ https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a15144422/ida-automotive-new-tucker-48-specialty-file/ Rob Ida Concepts does high end restorations and modifications. They restored real Tucker 1044 in addition to building replicas. Last I heard they had built three of the fiberglass Tuckers, but perhaps more by now. They all use the FWD Northstar engine and trans (which is a 4T80E, not the "4L60E" that the Motor Trend article claims). The Caddy drivetrain is mounted in the back, driving the back wheels. They even built one with twin turbos. Here's a shot of the frame they built. Here's the twin turbo car

The "best" filler is none at all. Metal finish until no filler is needed. If the thickness is minimal, then pretty much any filler will work fine.

That is an excellent point that I unfortunately did not consider.

The heaviest duty ones I've seen are the OTC version with 12 gauge cables. About $53 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/3650-Heavy-Duty-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B002YKFA3G

Fred has all the cool toys. 😁

Here it is in it's native environment.

Glenn beat me to it.

Good used OEM metal from the desert southwest would be your best choice, as opposed to imported repro.

Think of it this way. Voltage is PSI. Amps is gallons per minute. You need both to feed your carburetor.

I don't belong to any cults, so I won't own anything from Apple (or Tesla for that matter), but yeah, point taken.

Thus the reason to drive cars without computers, preferably with points.

The screwdriver wedged between the shaft and one of the fasteners is how I usually do it, but I've also done it by leaving the belts on. Either way works. I guarantee that the screwdriver will slip at least once during the process, resulting in skinned knuckles. 😝 And yeah, any FWD vehicle with a TH425 or TH325, including some that used this exact engine.

And the 1984 Regal is front engine/rear drive. What's the confusion? I got the sense he removed the bolts holding the fan to the clutch, not the clutch to the water pump. Keeping the V-belts in place definitely help when trying to loosen those nuts on the water pump flange.

I would suggest that before you disassemble anything else, pull all the spark plugs, put a socket and breaker bar on the balancer bolt, and see if you can turn the engine over.