joe_padavano

Is the rust on the inboard surface or the outboard? Convertible and HT frames use the same outside members. The main difference is the additional pieces welded to the HT frame to box it out. These are specially formed parts, not just flat pieces, so boxing a later model frame is a lot more complex than on a street rod. However, if the special convertible sections on your frame are in usable shape, you COULD cut them out of the old frame and weld them into a HT frame.

I'm pretty sure the 65-70 B-body convertibles all use the same frame. It is not easy to convert an unboxed hardtop frame to a convertible frame. On street rods, where the frame is a relatively simple C-channel, boxing the frame is not too difficult. On these cars, the convertible frame starts with a hardtop frame then uses a number of specially shaped sections that fit inside the channel of the hardtop frame for reinforcement. These are not simple plates or even channels, but are formed sections that taper to clear the floor pan and other obstacles. Look closely at your convertible frame and you'll see where these additional pieces have been welded in. If the welded-in parts are in good shape, you CAN carefully cut them out of the old frame and weld them into a hardtop frame. I doubt, however, if this is really cost effective. At some point it's cheaper to just buy a complete car from the desert and start with that. Unfortunately, the very nature of the boxed convertible frame retains moisture and promotes rust.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So if I had (have) factory shoulder belts in my '71 Cutlass Convert . . it would be a bit special? </div></div> Yup. They were a seldom-seen factory option that year.

78-88 A/G body cars with a manual trans like this 79 Olds are pretty rare. That's not to say they will bring big bucks however. The trans is a T5, primarily used behind V6s and very low horsepower V8s. Factory rating on the 260 is around 110 HP or so, if I recall. Not exactly Oldsmobile's finest hour.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Factory 2bbl olds engine were 8 or 8.5 to one compression engines, but the two speeds were designed and bult for the quarter mile. If it runs right it will burn tires. How much you get out of it depends on how much you put into it. Everything is available to make it screem. Just figure out what you want and what you are willing to spend. Mike </div></div> I'm going to have to respectfully disagree here. The 2 speed Junkaway...er, Jetaway is NOT a Powerglide. It's a Super Turbine 300 (ST-300), a completely different trans. First gear is 1.76:1 (yes, that is the same as a PG); a TH400 or TH350 has a steeper first gear that will improve off-the-line acceleration.

As I noted in my earlier post, convertibles were exempted in the Federal regs. On the other hand, shoulder belts (front and back) were optionally available in convertibles (at least according to the Fisher Body manual) but I've never seen one.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a 71 cutlass convertible and i need to replace the window regulators. My teeth are all chopped up and the windows of course don't go up correctly or all the way. What other cars can i take these off of? My buddy has some from a 70/71 camro, will these fit and work properly? Any help is appreciated, thanks. </div></div> Camaro will definitely not work. Any 71-72 GM A-body (Cutlass, Chevelle, LeMans, Skylark) 2 dr hardtop or convertible will work. 68-70 A-body may also work, but I know there was a change to the window mechanism somewhere in there due to the requirement for impact beams in the doors.

Actually, 1968 was the first year that front seat shoulder belts (along with side marker lights) were federally mandated, so yes, a 68 should have them. Note that shoulder belts were optionally available prior to 68, but all 68s (except convertibles) were required to have them.

A 67 front bumper is differenf from a 66

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The block numbers are 30M137064 and the heads are a "C" series, part number 394 548. Best we can tell is the 69 442 had a 70 short block installed (warranty possibly?) </div></div> Actually, a factory warranty replacement block would have come unstamped. The dealers were instructed to stamp the new block with the number from the old block. The fact that this block has a different VIN derivative on it indicates that the block was originally installed in a 1970 production car and at some time the owner of the 69 442 either blew up the original 400 or just wanted a 455. Or else, the motor didn't really come from a 69 442 and was just assembled from various parts (admittedly, good ones, however).

Wayne, As others have noted, backdriving your breaker panel from a 110 outlet will only power one side of the 220 panel unless you can find two 110 outlets connected to opposite phases of the panel. We're in Northern VA (Loudoun County) and have a 15 KW PTO-driven generator that we run from the tractor. I use a 60 W/220 v breaker to connect the generator output to the breaker panel. Someday I'll wire an outlet to the outside of the house (I could use it to run a welder normally!) but for now I just drag cable through the basement. Of course, always be sure to turn off the main before connecting the generator.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any thing else I need to look for? </div></div> Sounds like they bolted the original 69 442 heads onto a 70 short block. Correct 442 valve covers will have "notches" (basically dented-in areas) at the rear to clear the power brake booster and A/C box. These are sought-after. Olds did not drill the crank pilot bearing hole on engines bolted to automatics, so an MT crank is worth more than an AT crank.

You're correct that the block stamping is from a 1970 Lansing-built car. Could have been a 442 or a Vista Cruiser, or a full size - there's not enough info to tell. The casting number on the heads is actually 394548, not 894548, and these heads were used on 67-69 big blocks (400, 425, and 455s), so they aren't the original heads from that block. The "C" heads could have come with either big (2.07") or small (2.00") intake valves.

In 1970 Olds used the then-new "notchback" Cutlass Supreme body style as the basis for all its A-body convertibles. As a result, the Supreme convert and the 442 convert used the same body shell. The 442 got a unique VIN, but the body stampings and frames are the same. The Supreme could be ordered with 350 or 455 motors, the 442 with either the 365 HP standard 455 or the 370 HP W-30. The 442s came standard with beefed up transmissions - in the case of the TH400 automatic the 442 had unique identifer tags on the trans. The 442s also came standard with the FE2 suspension package that included a larger front sway bar, a back sway bar, and stiffer springs and shocks. Of course, the 442 also got the unique grilles, emblems, stripes, and the outside sport mirrors. Everything else (console, rally pac, OAI hood, posi rear axle) were options on the 442. There were some minor trim differences (upholstery, exterior chrome) but these are nits. You could also order virtually all the 442 equipment on a Supreme convertible as well. In fact, in 1970 you could get the SX W-32 package (on either the Supreme hardtop or convert) that included the 365 HP 455 from the base 442 and the FE2 suspension package.

The plastic cowl screen/cover was used on Chevelles and GTOs, which is why Year One carries them. They are NOT correct for an Oldsmobile, but can be used if you prefer. All 68-72 Cutlii came from the factory with the metal screen. Note in particular that the factory screen has a formed "dome" above the wiper motor to clear the crank arm. It is very difficult to find this part in good condition. Hardware store screen that I've been able to find does not have the correct hole size. Don't destroy the part if it's not damaged.

That's definitely an Olds 215. Someone built a do-it-yourself TR8. Buick designed the 215 but Olds developed their own unique heads, thus the different valve covers. What intake manifold is on the motor? Real TR8s used a pair of 2bbl side draft carbs, which is why real TR8s needed the raised portion in the hood. This looks like a GM dual-plane intake.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Automatic, but they are the same, by changing flywheel & put bushing in rear of crank. </div></div> No, they're not the same. Olds did not drill the pilot hole in the crank on AT motors. You can buy a conversion bushing that fits in the AT pilot in the crank, but this requires you to trim the end of the input shaft on the MT trans.

I think you'll find many people willing to help, but you'll need to provide the year and model of your Oldsmobile. Also, there were three different diesel engines offered (two V8s and a V6), which one do you have? Finally, a picture would be useful. Good Luck.

It would help to know where you're located.

It looks like a 215, though it could be Buick or Olds (or Rover, for that matter). You may know that the 215 was originally designed by Buick (thus the front distributor). Olds designed different heads for it's version.

When you adjust the choke to close, the car needs to be cold. As the car warms up, the choke should open. If it doesn't, either you're not getting power to the choke, the ground is bad, or the choke coil itself is bad. Also, when you adjust it to closed, the choke should just close with light spring force. Finally, the adjustment depends on the air temp. If it's a hot day, the choke shouldn't be closed very hard. On a cold day, the spring force should be stronger. You may need to play with it a little to get it right.

Go to an auto paint store and get a gallon of pre-cleaner. This product is sold under various brand names and is used to remove wax and other contaminants prior to painting a car. It's a fairly strong solvent but won't damage paint or plastic. I use it often to remove tar and adhesive residue. You don't need the expensive DuPont or PPG brand pre-cleaner; the inexpensive house brand will do. I think this is just a slightly stronger version of Goo Gone, to be honest.

OK, first of all a 72 did not come with an electric choke from the factory, so this is an add-on. By the way, I'm a big fan of an electric choke, so this isn't a bad thing. Power to the choke should be switched from the ignition and should actually be run through an oil pressure switch so the choke doesn't start to open until the engine is running. Start by disconnecting the wire when the engine is cold and pump the throttle once to see if the choke closes. If it does, you've got a problem with the wiring. If it doesn't close, there's an adjustment on the round black choke coil. Loosen the three screws and rotate the coil until the choke closes. Snug up the screws and start the car. Watch to see if the choke opens as the car warms up. If it does, you can fine tune the adjustment to get the right opening time. If not, check for power on the wire when the engine is running (should be 12 v). Also verify good ground from the choke housing to the engine block. Some electric choke kits run a ground wire from one of the three choke screws to a good engine ground. If power and ground are good, you need a new choke coil.

Here's a guide to GM transmission pan shapes to help with identification: http://www.autotran.us/gmABpg26.htm

Actually, to be completely correct the Jetaway is called the Super Turbine 300 (ST300) and was used in Buicks and Pontiacs as well as Oldsmobiles. Only a few parts are interchangeable with the Powerglide.