joe_padavano

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gentlmen: Years ago I had a similar priblem on my 69 Cutlass. After money spent and much vexing thought, I had to replace the little 90 degree check valve when it fell apart. All the problem went away. I since learned to start with the little things first. This is the plastic fitting on the power booster that is vacume fed from the engine. I hope this helps, Mike </div></div> Starting with the simple things is always a good plan for diagnosing a problem, but in this case the plastic check valve on the booster won't cause the "BRAKE" light on the dash to come on. Only a hydraulic problem (or a sticking e-brake pedal) will cause that. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Interesting as I have a 73 Toro (disc in front, drum in back) and similar problems. Brakes don't work but it happens after I have been driving a while (20 minutes or longer) and my brakes fade away. Kind of like the rear only is working. (Good thing the 455 engine is there as I down shift quickly to slow down!) I changed the booster and master cylinder and pedal bleed the brakes. Now the light is on and the problems is the same. I susepcted the proportional valve but wanted to find out more about it. I believe this year the prop valve and distribution are in the same housing. I plan on bleeding them again this weekend but am interested in the button on the prop valve. You seem to have a good knowledge on these any suggestions? </div></div> Yes, your 73 will have the combo valve that incorporates the proportioning valve, the residual pressure valve, and the differential pressure switch all into one housing. If you pedal bled the brakes and the light stays on, your differential pressure switch spool is offset to one side in the housing. If sludge builds up in the housing this can cause the spool to stick, which keeps the light on and can also upset the flow of hydraulic fluid. Depending on which way the spool is stuck, cracking the bleeder screws on the other end of the system can help recenter the spool. Since your rear brakes seem to work, try bleeding the fronts to get the spool recentered. Yes, you do need to keep the button depressed during bleeding. This actually disables the residual pressure valve during bleeding.

The 72 H/O never had T-tops. I think you mean a 75 H/O.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looked again but still didn't see it. I thought I cleaned the engine good, but I sure missed that area. This weekend, if I get a change I'll pull off the alternator and brackets and look again. Any idea why the service manual doesn't mention that location for ID numbers? Thanks, John</div></div> I can't speak to the 75 FSM, but my 68, 69, 70, and 71 manuals all talk about the VIN derivative locations in Section 0. It's usually on the page after the one that talks about the VIN tag and body data plate.

First, I would avoid Midas for brake work. Not to bash vendors in this forum, but I've personally witnessed Midas employees doing things like using a vice grip pliers to squeeze a brake hose while changing a caliper. I'm very hesitant to take an old car to a repair chain in general, since these places are mainly parts replacers and really don't spend any time trying to diagnose a problem (witness the speed at which they declared a brand new master cylinder "bad"). Their goal is to get cars in and out as quickly as possible. Next, if you're not doing the work yourself, have a trusted shop check everything in the brake system. A car that old will typically have deteriorated brake hoses. These can fail internally, with the rubber collapsing and acting like a one-way valve. This will prevent proper bleeding and brake function. Also, inspect all the hard lines for rust or other damage. Since you replaced a caliper, I assume this is a disc brake car. Your car has drums in the back, not calipers, by the way. A 69 with factory discs will have a cylindrical proportioning valve below the master cylinder. This can go bad but even if it does, it won't make the brake pedal go to the floor. Also, the proportioning valve has a button that must be depressed when bleeding the brakes. Next is the distribution block on the frame. This device has a sliding spool valve inside it that triggers the BRAKE light on the dash if you lose pressure in the system. This valve can get out of place if brakes are not bled properly and can cause a problem if it does. Finally, find a shop that uses a pressure bleeder. This will absolutely remove all air from the lines if done properly. On a car this old, consider a wholesale replacement of calipers, rear wheel cylinders, and hoses. These parts are not very expensive and do wear out.

Wow, Dave. You used "Ford" and "Lucas" in the same sentence. No wonder you had problems... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... The '75 Olds shop manual says all V8 engines except the Omega 350 are identified by a code tape (engine code letters, ie WQ and production date, mauual uses 123) installed directly above the engine unit number which is stamped on the engine fill tube. I did just find the stamped number (when I cleaned the engine I missed it.) It's 7 digits and the VIN ends with 6 numbers. They don't even remotely match. Do you know for sure if that number is supposed to match the VIN? Thanks, John Milford, MI </div></div> John, Go back and read my two posts. The stamped number is nine characters long. Sometimes the stamping is faint or rusty and hard to read, particularly with the motor still in the car. The first digit will be a 3 for Oldsmobile division. The last eight will match the last eight of the VIN. If you have a 75 Factory Service Manual, this is described in the front section.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That information is mostly correct, however the only numbers on the block will match the sequential numbers (last six) of the VIN. There are no other VINs on the block pad. ... </div></div> I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, but that info is all correct. When I said "if any of these don't match...", I meant any of the nine characters of the VIN derivative. Just to be completely clear, there is a single VIN-derivative stamped on the block containing nine characters. ALL NINE characters of this VIN-derivative (not just the last six) need to match corresponding characters of the car's VIN for it to be the original engine. The first character of the VIN-derivative must match the first character of the VIN and the last EIGHT characters of the VIN-derivative must match the last EIGHT of the VIN. If any of the characters is off, it's not the original engine.

Hi and welcome. The engine should not lean. This is likely a sign of a broken motor mount, which can lead to a jammed throttle if it gets worse. An easy way to check this is to set the parking brake, put the trans in drive and slowly depress the throttle (while firmly pressing the brake with your left foot). Have a helper watch the engine (while standing safely to the side of the car). Repeat with the trans in reverse. The engine will move a little when you rev it, but if it moves a lot, one or both motor mounts are broken.

First, the oil filler tags must have fallen off as the car was driven off the dealer's lot, because I've never seen an original one. More importantly, since the tag and oil fill tube are easily changed, that's not your best verification source. All 68-up Olds motors have a VIN-derivative stamped into the block. There's a machined pad on the driver's side of the block at the front. Look just below and forward of the number 1 exhaust port. The pad is usually caked with crud and partly obscured by the accessory brackets. Stamped on the pad is a nine character VIN-derivative number. The first character will always be the number 3 for Oldsmobile Division. The second character will be the year of manufacture (should be a 5 for your 1975 Delta). The third character will be a letter or number designating the manufacturing plant (M for Lansing, X for Kansas City, etc). This should match the seventh character of the car's VIN. The last six characters should match the last six digits of the car's VIN. If any of these do not match, it's not the original engine.

If your question is "will these work with the existing wiring in my older car?", I've run them in a number of vehicles originally equipped with sealed beams with no problems.

Olds used a small letter (such as the "A" on the CA heads) to designate a small running design change to an existing casting. I can't say that I've seen CA heads, but I've seen DA heads. Again, nothing special.

What was the thing that required "customization" to clear? If it's the brake combination valve on the driver's side frame, that is supposed to be relocated when headers are installed for exactly this reason. Did your installer fail to read the instructions, or simply take the easy way out? I think a refund and new headers are in order.

Which body style and which windows?

The 215 Olds was the same basic motor as the 215 Buick, but with different heads. Many of the other parts are interchangeable. Olds offered this motor with a turbocharger in 62-63 as the Jetfire. Check out this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post448197

Left front? Does the car have A/C or not? Which pulley is it exactly? Crank, water pump, power steering pulley, or alternator? Sounds like two grooves? This part should not be rare at all - any 350 Olds in a wrecking yard should have one.

Dave's right. The GMC I6 302 was a popular truck motor in the late 50s. It was pretty much a drop in replacement for the similar vintage Stovebolt Chevy six, and there's no replacement for cubic inches. Lots of aftermarket parts available at the time. The Chevy 302 V-8 was only offered in the 67-69 Camaro Z/28s and was created by mating a 4.00" bore 327 block with a 3.00" stroke 283 crank. This motor was developed by Chevy to comply with the 5.0 liter max displacement limit in Trans Am racing at the time. As an aside, combining the leftover 327 crank and 283 block yielded the Chevy 307, as found in legions of Novas and Malibus in the early 1970s (and not to be confused with the Olds 307 of the 1980s).

Actually, Caddy also uses the same bolt pattern. Chevy is the only GM family that uses a different bellhousing bolt pattern. The bottom four bolts and the indexing pins are the same, but the top bolts are different. You can buy a Chevy-to-BOP adapter plate from places like Jegs or Summit. These cost around $70. Keep in mind that TH400s came with several different tailhousing lengths. That needs to match the body style as well to avoid driveshaft problems. You can't just change the tailhousing, since the output shaft lenght is different to match and changing that requires total disassembly of the trans.

Wow! A documented 72 Supreme with 455/4 speed. Very cool. This one's a keeper. One suggestion, however. If you walk out to the garage and look at the emblems on the car, you'll notice it's spelled CUTLASS with an "A".

The aluminum 215 really can't be bored very much. What you CAN do is find the crankshaft and heads from a 1964 Buick 300. These bolt onto the 215 block and produce a 5.0 liter alumunum V8. Unfortunately 300 parts are tough to find. A more available option is to get a 4.0 or 4.4 liter version of the motor out of a Land Rover. These come with EFI and are much more readily available.

The absolute best ram air hood repros are made by Thornton Reproductions in PA. They get upwards of $1500 for a hood, but they are indistinguishable from original. At the other end of the spectrum, you can get repro hoods with a fiberglass underside instead of the correct metal for prices in the $400-600 range. Just don't expect them to look as good or fit as well as original. Good condition original hoods are well into four figures. The factory stripes were painted on (except for the Rallye 350).

The surging at mid-range speeds under lightly loaded throttle is often a sign of an igintion problem. I had a similar problem with our 93 Allante (the Northstar and the Intrigue's "shortstar" V6 are related) and the problem turned out to be the coil pack.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok, not kinda of illegal, totally illegal. its illegal to remove a vin tag and put it on another car. </div></div> Once again, NO, IT IS NOT ILLEGAL under Federal Law to remove and alter a VIN tag. It is only illegal if there is intent to commit fraud. Read the law for yourself under subsection 18 U.S.Code section 511 that you can find here: http://law.onecle.com/uscode/18/511.html The US Dept of Justice goes on to say: "To prove a violation of Section 511, it must be established that: (1) the defendant knowingly removed, obliterated, tampered with, or altered an identification number on a road motor vehicle (or component); (2) the identification number was one required by the United States Department of Transportation (DOT); and (3) such conduct was not done lawfully (e.g., defendant knew the vehicle was stolen and was trying to conceal its identity)." That reference is available here: http://www.usdoj.gov/usao/eousa/foia_reading_room/usam/title9/crm01375.htm Reasonable people can argue as to whether the original request in this thread constitutes a legal VIN replacement or not, but the general statement that doing so is illegal is NOT correct.

I like to run straight manifold vac but it depends on the advance canister, the initial timing, and the quality of fuel. You can really make either work.

The electric choke should be run to a switched +12V circuit, but you should put an oil pressure switch between the source and the choke. These switches close with oil pressure when the engine is running, so if you leave the key on without the engine running won't prematurely heat the coil and open the choke.

You can find pictures of each year H/O at hurstolds.com. There were H/Os built in 68, 69, and 72; none in 70 or 71. All 68s were silver with black stripes. 69s and 72s were all white with gold stripes. 69s got the unique bolt-on "mailbox" twin hood scoops. 72s used the factory style fiberglass O.A.I. hood. Also, a real H/O will have H/O emblems on the outside (which may have been removed) and a H/O decal on the glove box door. All got dual gate shifters as well.