joe_padavano

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Matt Harwood</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave@Moon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BTW, Although the Century and Cutlass (RWD) A-Bodies were discontinued in 1982...</div></div> News to me. There's an 86 Cutlass wagon on Ebay right now. Also, don't be confused by the A/G body thing. The cars are mechanically identical and all (except the ElCo) use the same wheelbase.

The ironic thing about this (yes, I saw it on April 1) is that I own a 1987 Toyota Corolla FX that was built by NUMMI in the same Fremont, CA factory as my 66 442.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: junkyardjeff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the 80s versions have a computer controled part and if its not removed might not run right on a non computer motor,it should not be too hard to find a correct year carb as any quadrajet for a 350 from the late 60s to late 70s should work. 350s were never made in the mid 80s and the small olds motor was a 307 and the 85 carb is designed for that size only. Jeff </div></div> This is all true for the Olds 307 carb, but the original post notes that the carb is a 1985 M4MEF Qjet. The first M signifies that it is a non-electronic carb (that first letter would be an E if it were an electronic Qjet). The 4M just indicates it is a Qjet, the next E indicates it uses an electric choke, and the final F indicates it has adjustable WOT mixture control. Lots of these non-electronic Qjets were used on 350 Chevy trucks in the mid-1980s, which is probably where this carb originally came from. It can be made to work with an Olds 350 but things like jetting and air valve wrap will likely need to be adjusted for your particular motor.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johnpaul Ragusa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...I was at Dunkin Donuts drive thru....She pulls up next to me and didnt even nod her head or say thank you. </div></div> I'm a certified cynic, so for all you know, the cashier pocketed your extra payment and still charged the next customer full price.

I hate to say it, but that thing looks like a lawsuit waiting to happen.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rusty_OToole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All GM divisions were ordered to make their V8 engines in 350, 400 and 455 cu in sizes. ...</div></div> The engine size "standardization" started before the mid sixties. As early as 1964 there was the 340 Buick, 330 Olds, 327 Chevy, and 326 Pontiac. The common 400 cu in engines were a result of GM brass mandating a 400 cu in maximum in the A-body muscle cars (Buick, apparently, sleazed in the 401 ). All the full size cars used engines around 7 liters (425 Olds, 427 Chevy, 421 and 428 Pontiac, and 430 Buick). GM wasn't alone with the 7 liter limit, as you also had the 427 (and 428, and 429) Fords and the 426 Chrysler.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was around then, but I guess I'm getting to the point where it's all running together. Hey wait! that only happens to old people! </div></div> I was around then too, and I distinctly remember the photo of the original owner who started the lawsuit standing next to his 1977 Delta 88.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">about 1973-74. There was a big lawsuit in '75 or so by a customer who bought a Nova-shell Oldsmobile (Omega?) and was shocked to find a small block Chebby under the hood. He knew the car was a Nova body shell, but paid more for the Olds based on the reputation of the Rocket V-8. This began the phrase "GM cars use GM engines manufactured by various divisions" </div></div> Actually, the infamous lawsuit was in 1978 in response to the use of Chevy 350s in the then-new "downsized" 1977 Olds 88s and 98s. You can read about it here: http://bulk.resource.org/courts.gov/c/F2/594/594.F2d.1106.78-2036.html By the way, to answer the original question, Olds first started using Chevy engines in 1966 when it offered the Chevy I-6 motor as it's bottom of the line engine. Of course the Buick V6 had been used off and on since 1961 and the Pontiac 400 was used in full size Oldsmobiles in 1975. It wasn't until 1978, however, that the lawyers figured out there was a revenue stream there.

I've always thought that Hemmings missed the boat by not cutting a joint branding deal with ebay from the very beginning. Unfortunately, that ship has sailed and I really don't think the paper version of Hemmings (nor a PDF copy of it) has much of a future for automotive classifieds. I've watched Hemmings grow the non-ad content, but frankly I don't think it's enough. I let my subscription lapse about five years ago. It was a bittersweet decision.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketraider</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Parts book shows 1969 and 1970 98 use the same tank. There's one number difference in 88 and 98 tank part numbers, and the 88 tanks are the same 67-70. I don't know for sure what the difference is. I think someone on the Buick Forum has a Hollander Interchange Manual. It will tell what other cars' tanks will work. </div></div> Actually, according to my Hollander, the 69-70 98 tanks are the only ones shown as an interchange, and that's only if the car does not have evaporative emissions control. For 1970, EEC was a mid-year addition and that tank is unique. I've also noticed that Hollander is VERY conservative on exact replacements, so other C-body tanks may work. As an example, Hollander shows that only the Oldsmobile spindles will interchange on the 68-72 Cutlii, but I've personally done disc brake swaps with parts I pulled from a Monte Carlo and a Tempest. Also note that the main differences for the 67-70 tanks will be the vent tube configuration. You can try an older tank and reconfigure the vents to match or have a qualified shop modify the older tank with the appropriate vent tube fittings. Failing all else, there are a number of street rod vendors who will custom fabricate fuel tanks. It won't be original but you'll be able to drive the car. (Yes, Glenn, I responded to this first over at classicoldsmobile.com)

I'm guessing this officer is younger than the car...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TG57Roadmaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's an ad for a '49 Roadmaster, a beautiful, one-year-only body style, copied verbatim. Consider my insertions <span style="font-weight: bold">(in parens)</span> as artistic license... Lovingly submitted, TG</div></div> What's your point? It's his car and his money. You can certainly feel free to buy all the 4 door Buicks yourself and preserve them in totally stock condition using your own money and time. No? Then give it a rest. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">P.S. ...then direct all your comments extolling the virtues of rodding to the nearest brick wall. Thanks, and have a nice day! </div></div> Glad to see you're open minded about differing opinions.

Delta won't work, but any 77-90 B-body wagon (Chevy, Buick, Pontiac) is the same.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mastertech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">and will also turn on a SERVICE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM light if the tires are not the same size. melvin schwentner chrysler mastertech a.s.e. mastertech </div></div> And I'll ask the question once again. HOW does the car go around corners? The outside tire follows a larger radius and thus spins faster than the inside tire. This is why cars have a differential.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: k_helsby</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I went to add coolant to an empty overflow tank in my 70 Cutlass (Rocket 350), I noticed two things. First, the lines are marked Add (bottom line) and Full (top line). To what level do I add fluid when the engine is cold. Second, what is the second hose coming from the top of the coolant overflow tank? It's not attached to anything, nor is it long enough to ever have been attached to anything. Is it a vent - should I be concerned? Thanks. - Ken </div></div> I don't think a coolant overflow tank was factory offered in 1970, but even it it's aftermarket, when cold the level should be above the ADD line. The FULL line should be the hot level. The second line is the overflow for the overflow. It should be directed down under the car in the unlikely event that the overflow tank becomes overly full.

Isn't that the same wheel used on the base F-85s in 1968?

Given that the last Oldsmobile dealership closed a while ago, I'd already given up on GM. Besides, virtually none of my cars are new enough that I can buy parts at the dealership, so it's kind of a moot point for me.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ex98thdrill</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> As much as I hate to say this, it make sense Dick,</div></div> And all I ask (yet again...) is that someone PLEASE explain the technical failure mode that this causes. Sorry, but I'm an engineer (and a very skeptical one at that) so I'm not going to accept something just because someone says so. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">but if that is the case then why would the factories be delivering new cars to the dealerships with economy spares if the economy spares will cause problems with the transmission if you drive the car with one of those spares?? </div></div> The legal "out" is that you're not supposed to drive for more than 50 miles on one of those donut spares, and even then only at slow speeds.

It's easy to make a small fortune in the antique car business - just start with a big one... (BADDA BING!) Seriously, I see the guys with the campers and big trailers that spend the winter scrounging sheetmetal in the southwest and then sell it at the eastern swap meets during the summer.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Matt Harwood</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...(seriously, if you push the brake and throttle together, the engine dies)... </div></div> So I take it that power-braking the car at the drag strip is out of the question? At the risk of getting off topic, these new nanny electronics are just breeding even worse drivers.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: windjamer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There are 4 differant tsbs that pertain to mismatched tires causeing trannt problems Go figure. </div></div> I don't suppose it's at all possible that this is the auto manufacturer trying to blame the customer and get out of a warranty claim, could it? Why, yes, now that you ask, I <span style="text-decoration: underline">AM</span> a card-carrying cynic.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: windjamer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I read this when it first came out and also thought it was a rip off,but wanted to check it out befor comenting. I hate to say there is a little truth in the story. The problem is not so much a safty issue but may cause transmission problems in all wheel drive vech. such as subaru due to computer controled shifting. Thats the word I got from the nys service and repair shop org. of near 12000 dealers. </div></div> I'll ask the question again. If the minor difference in tire radius from worn to new, which causes a difference in wheel speed, will result in damage to the transmission, transfer case, or differential, then HOW does the car go around corners where the outside wheel travels faster than the inside wheel? Do differences in air pressure from side to side (which also cause rolling radius differences) also cause the trans to fail? I'm STILL waiting for an answer from any of the "experts" as to what EXACTLY causes this failure.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: UncleBiggy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">a friend who inherited a 1955 98 convertible from his family wants to go this route 'cuz he was quoted $3000 to rebuild the original engine and $1500 for the transmission when he can get the 350/350 for a fraction of that. His question, does the street rod fraternity sell the proper crossmembers for such conversion??(there does seem to be a lot of these cars that have underwent that,,,me I'd rather starve a few years & save the money to keep it correct!) </div></div> Your friend is being naive. The SBC and TH350 may be less expensive, but then add the custom mounts, the accessory brackets, the custom driveshaft, custom exhaust, rewiring under the hood, custom throttle and shift linkage, etc, etc. I'm just counting the cost of the parts. If your friend is planning to pay someone to do this work, double or triple the price.

The answer is, it depends. A point-style ignition system will work fine so long as you keep the points in good shape. The big advantage to electronic is that there are no points to wear out, so the timing and dwell never change. If you want electronic and want to keep the engine looking stock, get a Pertronix or similar conversion that fits inside the stock small body distributor. If you don't care about looks, get an Olds HEI from a 73-80 V8. The beauty of HEI is that parts are readily available and used distributors can be had for $5. Steer clear of the 81-90 HEI from a 307, however. These units do not have vacuum or mechanical advance and require the computer to properly operate. The earlier units are stand-alone and will work fine.