joe_padavano

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Qualityjoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Joe, I found the entire cable at Yearone and BAP. Is it an easy job to replace??? (Especially the tranny end???) Joe </div></div> Joe, Be sure the cable you have goes to the accelerator and not the carb. The trans end is easy to change. There's a single bolt that holds the cable sheath to the trans. Pull up on the sheath and you'll see an "S" hook in the trans attached to the end of the cable. Use a needle nose to hold the "S" hook while you disconnect the cable. Reverse the process with the new cable.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Qualityjoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Joe, It is a 350. I have attached a picture of the current setup. Based on your response, I guess I am missing the metal spring clip. Are these parts availale new, or do I need to start looking in junk yards?? Thanks Again, Joe </div></div> Yep, you're missing the spring clip that goes on the rod coming out of the tab on the accelerator. I've not seen them new, but I haven't really looked for them either. Unfortunately, this configuration was unique to the 69-72 A-body cars. Chevelle resto houses may sell them. Good luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Qualityjoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know how the detent cable is attached to the gas pedal assembly on a 1970 Cutlass Conv???? My cable is there, but there is no nut or locking mechanism to let the cable operate properly. Any picture or drawing would be appreciated. </div></div> Is this a TH350 car? The cable passes though a tab welded to the accelerator pedal arm. A plastic bushing snaps into the tab for the cable to pass through. There is a small metal spring clip on the end of the cable that can be adjusted along the rigid end of the cable to adjust the kickdown function.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOTROD442WANNABE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am searching for a ram air hood injection molded with steel liner. Have dual gate but need top plates, slider, prindle. New lenses. New fuel tank, sending unit, cap and hardware. New door handles. </div></div> Thornton makes the best OEM-style hood repro. It's not cheap. A-body fuel tanks and door handles are common and repros are available everywhere. Lenses are available from the usual repro houses (Fusick, Year One, etc.).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tom50buick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thanks for the talk, I have a book on rebuilding chevy engines, I was hopeing for a book on olds 350 rocket engine rebuilding. I have the 1972 olds chassis sevice manual.I was hoping for a book like the chevy. thanks again </div></div> Unfortunately, Olds motors aren't popular enough to warrant a book. The basic rebuilding of any American V8 is the same. The tricks unique to Oldsmobiles are covered to some extent in Mondello's tech manual, though if you're doing a relatively stock rebuild, I can't say the content justifies the expense.

I'd be interested in the spindles and hubs if the price is right. Also packing and shipping to zip code 20180. Thanks.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Randy Schwaller</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm looking for a left hand side dual exhaust manifold for a 1965 Starfire, Dynamic 88, Jetstar or any full size Oldsmobile that ran factory dual exhaust from 1965 to 1970. </div></div> These are being reproduced now by Thornton, I think.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 4-Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, I have a 455 Olds 4-speed motor that I need some help with. It is stamped 30Xxxxxxx, 3 being Olds, 0 being 1970, and X being Kansas City produced, and the next six digits being production sequence. OK, I have read that 442s weren't made in KC in 1970, is that right? So, if not, what other 1970 Oldsmobile came with a 455 stick shift - either 3-sp or 4-sp manual? Cutlass? Also, is there any other identifying marks or stamps on the motor that would tell me what car it came from, i.e. Cutlass, 442, 88, etc. I have the American Car ID Numbers 1960-69 book, but nothing for the 70s. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, and have fun, Matt </div></div> Matt, You are correct, A-bodies were not built in KC that year. A manual trans WAS offered in the 88, though if this really is a factory-assembled manual trans engine from a full size, that would have been a very rare car. I know the Dearborn (AKA Ford) toploader three speed was offered with column shift in the 88. Not sure about a floor-mounted four speed, however. Are you sure this engine hasn't been apart? Verification of the car it was born in is tough, as there's no real hard evidence. The X in the VIN-derivative proves it didn't come in an A-body or a Toro, but beyond that there isn't much else that would be firm. I assume there is no paper sticker on the oil fill tube with the two letter engine code.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bought an '86 Caprice wagon last year. Mechanic was surprised to find the filter on the "wrong side"! Yep, it's an Olds! Wayne </div></div> Small world - heck, small state of VA... I have an 86 Caprice with 307 also. I'm collecting Custom Cruiser front sheetmetal so it will also look like an Olds. As you may know, the B-body wagons are all identical from the firewall back. All use the Chevy doors, so the Custom Cruisers have unique fenders (different from the RWD 88 and 98 sedans) to mate the Olds header and grille to the Chevy side features.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tom50buick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what is the difference on rebuilding olds 350 and chevy 350? My olds 1972 350 rocket is all ready to put together. Is there a book on rebuilding olds engines? thanks again tstrick1972@aol.com </div></div> In terms of the process, rebuilding any cast iron American pushrod V8 is the same. There are some differences between the Olds and the Chevy. You really should get a factory service manual to do this right.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: check6</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been looking at a 1969 Olds 442 convertible. The VIN starts with 336679M and according to various web sources it's not a 442, if you go strictly by the VIN. </div></div> Well, going "strictly by the VIN" is the ONLY thing you can do. It's a clone.

The easy one is the bolt that's under the dash above the release handle. Then there are the two nuts on the engine side of the firewall, outboard of the main wire harness connector. These may be difficult to see with the inner fender in place.

The street rod wire harness vendors such as Ron Francis and American Autowire sell individual terminals and connector bodies, but it turns out you can get the OEM-style Delco Packard terminals at NAPA. The parts won't be on the rack, and usually the guy behind the counter won't know this, but force him to look through the catalog. I bought terminals and connector bodies for the newer weatherpak connectors and the older Delco Packard 56-style terminals were listed as well. I usually pick up a handful at Carlisle to save money, however.

The two lights are almost certainly two different issues. First, be aware that the brake light can indicate one of two things, either a serious problem with the brakes or that the emergency brake is either on or has a misadjusted switch. If it's the switch, it should be easy to fix; if it's a real problem with the brakes, you want to get that fixed in a hurry. First thing to check is to pull the e-brake pedal all the way up while holding the release lever. If that fixes the problem, great. If not, verify if the switch on the top of the e-brake bracket is working properly. If these check out, then the problem is likely a real brake problem and could be a master cylinder, the differential pressure switch, or something else. The check engine light comes on because there is an error code stored in the computer. Most autoparts stores (Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys) will read the codes for free using a device that plugs into a diagnostic connector on the car. Once you have that info, you can better determine the problem. By the way, I assume this Toro has the 307 cu in (5.0L) motor, correct?

It's very easy to tell where the slop is coming from in the steering. For example, with the engine off, have a helper wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for relative motion between the top and bottom shafts on the rag joint. If both shafts move the same (and I'm willing to bet they do) then the rag joint is not the problem. Same test goes for virtually every other part in the steering. If you don't feel qualified to do this yourself, find a competent shop. It is very possible that the steering box is worn out. FYI, the "adjustment screw" will NOT take out the slop in a power steering box, it only sets preload.

The 215 was bare aluminum

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketraider</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, a rare car or option is often one that no one wanted when they were new, hence low production.</div></div> Amen Glenn. I always laugh at Cutlass/442 ads that talk up the "rare" Sport Coupe (2 dr post) model. As you correctly point out, these were rare because the body style was unpopular. Green interiors were thankfully rare also...

Michael, Welcome. As you may be aware, general interchange for A-body cars is 68-72 (except for the steering column, due to the ignition on the column starting in 69) and 73-77. Having said that, the 73-77 columns are almost identical to the 69-72 columns. The primary difference is the shape of the arm at the bottom of the column that the backdrive linkage attaches to. If you care about a concourse restoration, it won't be correct, but otherwise it should work. You may need to modify the linkage rod slightly to get it to work, or the one from the 73 may work as-is. Are you asking whether you can use the 73 power seat tracks in a 71? Width shouldn't be an issue since the tracks are separate. Check the hole spacing lengthwise on both top and bottom. The seat frames are definitely different, so there's no guarantee that the tracks will bolt up.

www.fusick.com. Note that the correct red is really more of a red-orange...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Joe. Got it ordered yesterday. Last question is what do the flywheel bolts get torqued to? I looked all over the manual and did not find a specific # just general 7/16 bolts go to 50lbs. </div></div> Hi Pat, glad to help. My Factory Service Manual says 60 ft-lb on the flywheel bolts.

Good news. Turns out that ATI Performance sells a new flexplate for the 64-67 crank bolt pattern: http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/flexplate/flexplate.htm Part no. 915563 for $208.95. Operators are standing by to take your call...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where can you get a reman flywheel for 67 Toro? Autozone lists 68-70 but it does not line up. </div></div> As you've unfortunately found out, Olds changed the crank flange bolt pattern in 1968. All 64-67 V8s (except 394) use the same flexplate, Toro included. Used flexplates are available from the usual auction sources. Mondello sells an SFI-approved billet steel flexplate for racing that will work on the 64-67 motors, but it's $400 http://www.mondellotwister.com/Transmission.htm Personally, I'd find a good used one.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: starfire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, can anyone tell me if the steering knuckle/spindle assembly for a 1968 Cutlass S is LH and RH or if they are interchangeable? Thanks, </div></div> The spindles are identical right to left. The steering arms are obviously RH and LH, but they are bolt-on. If you have disk brakes, the caliper brackets are RH and LH also, but these also bolt on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 66olds</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some time ago I had asked out there a question with a problem I am having with the motor in my car. It is a 66 Olds Cutlass that I put a 455 into and the motor sits very high in the engine bay and I have no clearance for an air cleaner. The frame mounts I used are from a 68 Olds or so I was told, and the motor mounts I used were from the year motor I put in, a 75. I was told to use small block motor mounts but have not tried that yet because I forgot what the person said to use on this site. I bought a pair of motor mounts for a 72 350 but have not put them in yet. Thanks for any help. </div></div> The motor and frame mounts need to match. The easiest way to do this swap would have been to leave the 66 frame mounts in place and use 66 motor mounts. All Olds blocks (big and small) have the motor mount bolt holes in exactly the same place relative to the crank centerline, so swapping a 455 in place of a 330 simply means bolting the 330 mounts to the 455 and dropping it in. At this point you need 1968 motor mounts to match your frame mounts. Be careful, since many vendors assume 68 mounts are the same as 69-72. The're not. The truth is that 64-69 small blocks and 65-68 big blocks all use the same rubber motor mounts. If you bought motor mounts for a 1975 455, that's your problem. Note also that Olds changed the small block mounts in 1970, so the 72 mounts you have may or may not work properly with the 68 frame mounts. Finally, be aware that the 455 IS about an inch taller than a small block due to the taller deck height. Even with the correct mounts, the carb will sit closer to the underside of the hood. Depending on what intake mainfold you're running, this may or may not be a problem. The 400 big block that was installed in the 66 442 is dimensionally identical to the 455 and did clear the hood, but a high rise intake like a Torker may cause a problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oldsfan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">More of a mystery now, than ever. I'd go if I could. Paul </div></div> Auto Restorer mag had a lengthy article on this car. The problem is that the car was donated only a couple of weeks prior to the time capsule being sealed up and event organizers had to scramble to get it incorporated in the event in 1957. There wasn't much time to do a thorough preservation job. The vault was built using sprayed gunnite (so apparently it DOES function well as a swimming pool...). The car was wrapped in preservative paper, but was not waterproofed. Apparently Tulsa also buried a Prowler in a time capsule in 2002, though much greater care was taken to preserve and seal the car. Also, that time capsule is above ground, not in a swimming pool.