MCHinson Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 7 hours ago, 1937-44 said: Matt I've been wondering if the part number difference could just be do to Delco changing their numbering system? Carl Carl, According to the parts manual, all 1937 Buicks use the same switch and all 1938 Buicks use the same switch. The 1937 and 1938 have a different headlight switch part number. Based on observing my 1938 Century and my 1937 Century headlight switches, I am fairly certain that the short switch is the 1937 switch, part number 480-W, and the long switch is the 1938 switch, part number 1994501. Gary, I have not opened up my 1937 switch, but I am guessing that the center contact should be the same wider style as the 1938 switch. It is hard to visualize where the contacts would fall, but I think that the problem might be that the rebuilder should have used one of the wider center contacts in the rebuilt 1937 headlight switch. I think it has the wrong contact and that is what caused the headlights to be on when the switch was in the off position. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 1 hour ago, MCHinson said: Gary, I have not opened up my 1937 switch, but I am guessing that the center contact should be the same wider style as the 1938 switch. It is hard to visualize where the contacts would fall, but I think that the problem might be that the rebuilder should have used one of the wider center contacts in the rebuilt 1937 headlight switch. I think it has the wrong contact and that is what caused the headlights to be on when the switch was in the off position. We have multiple reasons to be grateful to Gary for creating this thread, but one of the lessons that we can take from his experience in this restoration is NEVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY when you are dismantling your original car! I haven't been keeping a detailed score, but the headlight switch, I believe, is either the second or third item that he needed to resurrect because the "new" part that he purchased turned out to be defective in some way. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 3 minutes ago, neil morse said: We have multiple reasons to be grateful to Gary for creating this thread, but one of the lessons that we can take from his experience in this restoration is NEVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY when you are dismantling your original car! I haven't been keeping a detailed score, but the headlight switch, I believe, is either the second or third item that he needed to resurrect because the "new" part that he purchased turned out to be defective in some way. Amen! A guy asked me the other day why I still have all the "broken" parts I've taken off my cars. I told him it's because I've lost track of the number of times I've needed to resurrect one of them because the new/restored replacement didn't work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937-44 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) 12 hours ago, dibarlaw said: Changing the socket to a double filament and pig tailing off of a tail light. I never got around to it but I still want to do it. As an addendum to my wiring harness account to Dave. I chose the RI harness as to how it would look and function as original. The extra loom and wires they added for me to have turn signals cancelled that out. Actually Larry the additional wires would make the job better as they would allow you to have turn signals and a third brake light. I converted my trunk light to a stop light and running light by installing a double contact socket and just adding a wire from the left brake light wire. Unfortunately you would have to splice into your new wiring harness though. My biggest challenge was the slant back doesn't have as much room for the larger bulb. My job is very crude but but I wasn't very concerned as nobody sees it unless they take apart the trunk light. Here are a couple pictures of my crude conversion. Carl Edited November 26, 2017 by 1937-44 Difficulty adding pictures (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Its a good idea and it works. Might have already prevented you from being rear ended. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 37-1944: About adding a brake light to the license plate light on the trunk lid ( 1937 Special in our case ) .........we did this successfully . We removed the single contact socket and replaced it with a double contact socket. Then we used a 1154 double contact bulb. Like you we found it was difficult to fit in a double contact bulb ......but.then we found 1154 bulbs with a smaller glass envelope....this solved the matter. We also found that adding a third brake bulb caused too much much voltage drop ( the extra amps caused this ). So we added a parallel wire from a terminal on the headlight switch hence to the stoplight switch hence to the brake wiring back near the rear bumper. In hindsight...I think the brakelight switch we were using wasn't heavy duty enough and was the souce of much of the excessive voltage drop. I'm sure glad we now have three stoplight bulbs in the rear.....the original set-up of two bulbs was too hard too see.and unsafe. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937-44 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Jack I haven't noticed any problems with my third brake light drawing to much voltage, however I still run old stock switches. Like you I get leery of the small tail lights on our cars. If I ever buy a new wiring harness I'm going to see if they can add an extra wire in the harness for the trunk brake light. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) We drive a lot at night, at least once a week and sometime two or three times. We have bright halogen bulbs in the stock taillights but I am not thrilled with just two little lights even if they are bright. The thing I am thrilled about is that there is not to many cars out at the late hours we normally go for a drive and also our streets mostly have street lights. Here in Vegas many places are open 24 hours so you can go to a market or an AUTO ZONE or food place etc 24 hours. We are retired and at 3 am we don't mind going shopping etc as the stores and streets seem almost empty compared to the daytime. Our old car is a joy to drive without traffic and noise and the hot sun. Even the old AM radio works better at night. Notice that the license plate light adds a little more light to the rear. Edited November 26, 2017 by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Tuesday November 28, 2017: Update at the paint shop... Rear Fenders Here, the Left Rear fender is in yellow self-etch prime and the Right Rear fender is still getting the skim coat sanded smooth. Both in self - etching prime inside and out. Then the grey build up prime coat is applied, sanded, then sprayed with a skim coat to guide the sanding process As Bob sands the grey primer, you can easily see the color change between the guide coat and the primer Then the underside is sprayed with rubberized undercoat. The next step is three coats of color. Super Jet Black base coat. Tack rag to prepare the fenders for the clear. Once both are wiped clean, it's time for the clear coat. Bob mixes 3 parts Clear with 1 part activator. This is the Activator - Reducer. Then I had to leave because the smell was overwhelming. The fenders will get wet sanded and buffed Friday and hopefully I can pick them up Saturday morning and install them onto the car. Have a great day! Gary 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Gary, I am new to your thread. My brother turned me onto your remarkable project. What is absolutely mind boggling is that you have done all this in a year ! I started my 36 Pontiac Master Six Business Coupe over a year and a half ago, only to be interrupted with issues that seem to pop up all the time, further delaying my progress. You are giving me incentive to get that car back on the "front burner". I also have a 36 Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan. It is mechanically in excellent condition and I drive it almost daily. It is a survivor with only a very poor paint job (the fenders looked like yours, with the crazing showing up). I got new running boards made for it but if I put them on, they will stick out like a sore toe in a tight shoe. Until I pull the trigger on a frame off restoration, I will drive it as it is. I did put in a new Rhode Island Wiring and Cable complete wiring harness (the wiring was crumbling and the lights were dim), rebuilding my light switch, dimmer switch, restored my heater (like your work on yours), and went through the cooling system, clutch and brakes. Other than that, it is all stock and original. The engine has never been apart. No need. It runs like a top. 71,000 original miles and no knocks or lack of power. I did source and install an original MoPar oil filter housing, replacing the throw away variety. All of us out here marvel at your tenacity and thoroughness. You are leaving no stone un turned. My brother and I are guessing that you are self employed. This gives you the advantage to make runs and errands in the middle of the day when necessary. Otherwise, you are at the mercies of waiting till the weekend to drag to the hardware, auto parts store for the little things. And you know that that is a time eating portion of any restoration. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, I started on your blog........and could NOT STOP reading. Following every step of the way was addicting. I too am a detailed individual and when I do something, it has to be correct or I will not do it. I do have a question. I may have missed you addressing that step; When you are painting the black stripes in your freshly chromed pieces, I did not see you "etching" the chrome before you painted the black into the grooves. Were you advised to paint the accent black directly onto the chrome without "prepping" the surface before you applied the paint? If you did not prep the chrome, what paint did you use that will adhere to the chrome without the fear of it coming off in the future? I doubt that you car will ever be subjected to being driven in inclement weather or a wash job using a hose and bucket of soap vs. misting with detailer and using the miracle fiber cloths. But still, that is a question that I have. I will be painting my chrome pieces and if there is a specific paint for that job, I would like to know what it is. Again, fantastic work. We all await the next post sitting on the edge of our seats! Randy P.S. You can see the restoration of my heater and my instrument panel (of the Plymouth) at my site. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Wow! Randy, thank you for the nice words! That's what keeps me going.... and of course tons and tons of helpful advice that I get daily through this site. This Buick certainly is the largest project I've ever taken on. Restoring Model "A" and Model "T" Fords seem relatively easy compared to this car, but the restoration techniques learned carry through. The chrome recesses: All I did was wipe out the depth with a tooth pick and rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the groove. I used Rust Oleum flat black in the grooves and wiped it off. I hope it holds up. I'm sure there is an "etchant" or an "adhesion promoter" of some sort that would keep the paint in the grooves, but like you said, this car won't be abused so I'm hopeful that the paint stays. I really appreciate everyone following along, and I hope that I have helped others out there the way the more experienced ones have helped me! Respectfully, Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Wednesday, November 29, 2017: Trunk locking mechanism Today I got the trunk mechanism restored. I think the trunk lid will be the next part painted. Step one, of course, was to completely disassemble the unit. The side that faced the trunk lid (the side you don't see when you open the trunk) was in much worse shape than the side that faced the actual trunk. Took over an hour to wire wheel all the rust and the last remnants of the grey paint. Strangest thing: As I was cleaning these parts, I could actually get a whiff of that horrible mice smell that inundated the car! It was like it was ingrained in the paint! All the hardware wire wheeled and washed in acetone. All the fasteners cleaned up and ready for paint. The hardware first got a coat of SEM Self-Etching primer. It was a beautiful 64 degree day today so perfect to paint. If you've never tried the SEM primer, I recommend it highly. Flows on smooth, no runs... good stuff. I let the primer dry in the garage two hours, then back outside to spray the SEM "Trim Black" to all the hardware. I painted the screws and lock washers in a gloss black. Now hanging overnight to dry. The trim black leaves a really nice semi-flat, satin-type finish. It's a nice contrast to the gloss black that will be under the trunk lid. The flash nailed it, but the detail is not lost. Going forward, I'll be picking up the rear fenders Saturday and most likely work with John Sat or Sun getting them installed. I think they are much easier than the front fenders in that there are only 12 bolts per side, and all go into the rear quarter. Have a great night! Gary 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Thursday, November 30, 2017: 50K views! Thanks to everyone following along!! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 (edited) Thursday, November 30, 2017: Paint Shop Update: January 2017: Condition of the air cleaner. It was pretty dented up. Bob sanded it down, and hammer - and - dollied the dents out of the lid. After removing all the paint Application of the filler to smooth out any remaining dents... Awaiting its final sanding / prime and Super jet Black! Bob started wet sanding the rear fenders this morning. Squeegee to find any spots requiring more 1200 grit wet sanding. When it dries, you can see the spots that need more attention. I'll be picking up the fenders Saturday morning, and dropping off the hood. I started getting the body ready for the fenders by tapping every cage nut using Copper-Eze. I'll measure and install the fender welting tonight using double sided tape so Saturday's install will go easy. Have a good one! Gary Edited December 1, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 41 minutes ago, Gary W said: Thursday, November 30, 2017: 50K views! Thanks to everyone following along!! Of only you had thought to charge a dollar per view! Lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Gary, Bob has a really nice calendar on the wall.. the ol dog!! I like it.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwheel21 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 #2... Amazing work brother... It's very possible, this could be the most interesting and most educational Automotive blog in the world! The attention to painstaking detail is amazing. Must say too, you have lots of good folks following here and they obviously appreciate the hard work and level of dedication you bring to the project. If they could have only seen the how it started...with dad's old Lionel trains 50 years ago, they would understand even better!! Great job Gary... as usual. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Looks like poor Bob has hammered and dollied most of his fingers, too! I guess that's an occupational hazard in his line of work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) Saturday and Sunday December 2 & 3, 2017: Rear Fender installation / Brake lights / Mud Shields Very busy this time of year getting ready for Santa. This post spans the two days, as my work was more sporadic, squeezing the Buick in between Holiday parties, decorating the house, hanging lights and wreaths... you know the drill! Saturday morning. Getting home from Bob's shop with the newly painted rear fenders. All the cage nuts are tapped with Copper-Eze. All the running board nuts are loose so it can be adjusted fore and aft. Then I cut about 10 small (1") pieces of double backed tape and set them between the cage nuts. I use the double backed tape to start aligning, measuring and cutting the fender welt. By using the small pieces, you can measure, remove, cut, replace, measure..... until it's right. Making the first preliminary slices to start forming the arch of the fender contour. The tape keeps it steady enough to measure it out. I use a sharpie marker to mark the holes and make various notes. After cutting the slices, punching the holes and getting the welt ready for install. Then, I used this as a template and simply cut a duplicate for the other side. Now over to the driver's side. Here, I'm laying out the double-backed tape along the inner aspect of the fender. Now that I have the welt cut, I use a full piece of tape the entire length. Begin setting the welt in place, pushing it into the tape which holds it nice and firm. Finish around the rear section. There are many slices there to make that tight turn. I remove the "tab" between every other slice just so it lays nice and doesn't bunch up. Close-up of the welt taped in position ready for the fender installation. My wife and I were running out to an 80th birthday party, but she still had to get ready so I grabbed my boys and the three of us got the driver's side set in position. I was watching the welt stay nice and straight as my son Kyle began running in a few bolts to hold it steady With the three of us working, the job didn't take more than 10 minutes to get her bolted in. Kyle is pulling the tail lamp wires through the rubber base to get the tail lamp installed. The wires now run through the body, under the fenders and out through the hole in the top of the fender. Wire the base.... Tighten her up! Today, (Sunday), after completing my "honey-do" list, I again enlisted the crew to help me get the passenger's side rear fender installed. Matthew (13) in the back, I was up front watching the running board and Kyle underneath getting some bolts started. You can see him through the gas filler opening. I was on welt patrol, being sure it was staying nice and even while the bolts were being drawn in. It's great watching the kids get involved. Finishing getting the twelve bolts installed "finger tight" to start. I finished up this side by installing the tail lamp. (Why is it lit, you ask?..... I think my brake light switch is malfunctioning) Here it is lit up. Then I went around and tightened up the twelve bolts from front to back. Then it was on to the mud flaps under there. This was January 2017. Here we are today. Nice transition. So, she's looking really nice now! The fenders really dress it up. I have to tighten up the running boards, install the gas filler tube and now try to figure out why the brake lights are constantly on. It is only the brake wire that is live on both sides. The other white wire is dead (Until the lights are turned on, of course) Have a great night out there! Gary Edited December 4, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Easy to say,,,,,,VERY NICE! Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Gary, I think I might replace the fender welting on our car. The original welting is still on the car and the fenders have never been off but the welting is worn badly. I might be able to use the original welting as a pattern, what do you think? Where did you get the welting from? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 1 hour ago, Gary W said: My wife and I were running out to an 80th birthday party, but she still had to get ready so I grabbed my boys and the three of us got the driver's side set in position. This is my favorite of all! Wife: "Gary, what the heck are you doing? We have to be at the party in 10 minutes!" Gary (dressed in his tux and immaculate dress shoes), "Just a minute, darling, I'm just putting a fender on the Buick!" 6 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 12 hours ago, LAS VEGAS DAVE said: Gary, I think I might replace the fender welting on our car. The original welting is still on the car and the fenders have never been off but the welting is worn badly. I might be able to use the original welting as a pattern, what do you think? Where did you get the welting from? Dave Hi Dave I used the 1/4" welting from Steele Products. They have a 3/16" as well. It's a big car, I liked the larger one. I'm sure someone will let you know the right size. You can certainly use your original as a pattern. This is the fender welt I used. This double-backed tape is so helpful when installing the welt. Holds it nice and firm while you draw down the bolts. Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 13 hours ago, neil morse said: This is my favorite of all! Wife: "Gary, what the heck are you doing? We have to be at the party in 10 minutes!" Gary (dressed in his tux and immaculate dress shoes), "Just a minute, darling, I'm just putting a fender on the Buick!" Someone needs to edit this pic to make it black and white and worn with the caption "1930's chauffeur driver helping his client's children repair a Buick" 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 -- that's great! It even looks like he's wearing white gloves in the B&W version. Gary, that should go on your wall! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Gary, the gentleman restorer. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Gary, I had a glitch with my password and could not get back on to AACA Forum till now. I talked to my plating company regarding painting over fresh (or any) chrome. He told me that to get paint to stick to the chrome, use a 3 M green pad and scuff the chrome to give it "tooth" for the paint to adhere properly. Painting over un scuffed chrome is "iffy" as to how long and how you care for the item. Even "detail mister" can "lift" the paint over time, but it may be many years before a problem arises. I have a 73 Fiat Spider that I am restoring (complete) and the windshield frame has a "satin" finish on the top surface (where the folding top meets the frame). When I got it back from the plater, I asked him about the shiny surface. Originally (from the factory), one of the steps was to do a light sand blast on the top surface to give it the satin finish. My plater told me that using the green 3M pad will accomplish the same results. Drag it lightly in ONE DIRECTION ONLY. I did so and now the inside of the windshield frame is "satin". Oh, I have to finish the Fiat before I can resume work on the 36 Pontiac. :-( I was doing the Fiat when the opportunity to get the Pontiac arose and so now I have two to restore. On the 36 Pontiac Coupe, I have two bumpers that require two black paint lines the full length of the bumpers. The plater told me to take the green 3 M pad, cut it into strips and use a wood dowel cut to the width of the "slot" and use that to apply pressure to the 3M pad strips to get the inside of the grove properly scuffed to accept the paint. It may be too late for you as I am sure that most of your chrome is already painted but for future work, the 3M green is the solution. I am sure that during the holiday, work will slow down on the Buick, but we are patient. I so much enjoy reading your thread and following the progress. I was especially impressed with your work on the headliner ! ! ! That was as good as a professional upholstery shop, and you are doing this for the first time? As all of your work, you are going into uncharted waters on many of the items that you restored. Gary, this goes to show that using common sense, research, trial and error, (AND LOST OF TALENT) most items are not out of reach for the restorer. I will apply many steps in your restoration to my Pontiac and the Plymouth (when I pull the trigger to do that one too) restorations. Your detail of the fender welting installation was superb. Welting 101. A complete course! We are waiting to see you do your seats. Will you re do the coil burlap covers? I am sure that the mice urine really made a mess of most of the materials but still, there may be some that were able to be saved. I really like your diligence and perseverance. Dressed to the nines before you attended a party and having your sons help you hanging the fenders just goes to show us that time is not wasted in your household. If you have a waking moment, your mind is thinking of the Buick. This is why, one year later, the car is almost finished. WOW ! We eagerly await your next post. Randy 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Gary makes me sick! Of myself! I cannot stay that CLEAN just stepping out of the shower. Way ta go, Gary. Ben 2 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Randiego said: He told me that to get paint to stick to the chrome, use a 3 M green pad and scuff the chrome to give it "tooth" for the paint to adhere properly. Painting over un scuffed chrome is "iffy" as to how long and how you care for the item. Even "detail mister" can "lift" the paint over time, but it may be many years before a problem arises. This is how I painted my factory chrome bumpers on my old truck-daily driver. The front bumper lasted about 2 years before it started peeling. I thought that was pretty good for a green pad scuff and some Wal-Mart self-etching paint as prep. On a car that is comparatively rarely driven, I imagine it would last much longer (my rear bumper never peeled in the 4 years I had it after that). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pplaut Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 My '36 model 48 has 16" rims. To get the new tire / rim combo to work, we had to drop back to a 15" rim. Unfortunately the hub caps I ordered from Bob's Automobilia don't fit these modern rims.. Any idea son something that will work? We have even contemplated taking old and new cut and reweld... Or does anyone have an idea of where I could get some custom '36 Buick hubcaps made in the 36 design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 54 minutes ago, pplaut said: My '36 model 48 has 16" rims. To get the new tire / rim combo to work, we had to drop back to a 15" rim. My '37 has 16" rims also. ( I thought all the models had 16" rims except the Century with 15" rims? ) My new tires are 6.50 - 16 Firestone bias ply. The tubes and tires fit right on the rims. Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you had to do to get the tire / rim combo "to work"? I would love to see a photo of your Model 48! Here's my '37 Hubcap. Re-chromed and the detail is a laser-cut decal Installed. Gary 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Pardon me Sir. Have you any Grey Poupon ? 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) Sunday December 10, 2017: Fuel filler, gaskets, first time out of the garage on her own power... I got a couple of small projects done today. The big event was starting her up and driving out of the garage so I could organize and clean up. Nice feeling her get up and go! Here's the lineup when installing the fuel filler neck. I got a new fender grommet. It cannot be used. After getting everything lined up, there was no way that grommet would sit properly. Flashback to January 2017. Filler tube installed, the mud shield is powder coated "mirror black" Comparison photograph of the new repro on the left, the original grommet on the right. Notice the original has a "crease" in the middle. That "crease" or "dent" is absolutely necessary to get everything to fit. The fender has a pronounced shape corresponding to that bend. Here it is, nice and snug. By the way, is this the correct cap? I'm getting a little heat for the way it looks. A few posts ago i cleaned, primed and painted the trunk mechanism. Today I traced and cut the gaskets to ready it for installation. The punch makes the best holes and the job looks real professional. Another project ready to go in. Then, I couldn't take the mess in the garage anymore, so I decided to pull her out and make some room to clean. Started her up, I sat on a plastic bin and got her some fresh air! First time out on her own power in 11 months. Carefully watching so I didn't hit the door frame. The paint really "pops" when it's outdoors. 11 months ago. Today. Coming along! And here's the mess I had to fix. I wanted to get organized before the hood returns, the interior..... 3 hours later. I'm pooped! Couple things on the first start up. 1. The automatic choke appears to be operating. When the car sat outside for three hours in the 32 degree air, the choke was closed off solid when I went out to start it. I let it idle 15 minutes and when I went to drive it in, the choke was fully open. 2. I notice the charge indicator is a little erratic. If I juice it, and keep it at a high idle, it stays pretty stable on the charge side. When she settles down to a normal idle, the needle kinda "clicks" up, then to middle, the pops up to charge. Not a fluid motion, "clicky". 3. Oil pressure is holding nicely at 40 pounds on start up, 15 minutes later at 30 - 35. 4. I let it idle 15 minutes, and no overheating. (Although it is freezing out). Radiator was warmer up at the top tank, and noticeably less warm at the bottom. 5. It was difficult to start after sitting outside the three hours. I had to use starting fluid to get it to finally kick over. Is it possible the fuel is running out of the carburetor when it sits? This seems to be an issue for me. All - in - all it was really nice to get behind the wheel again. Although I need to bolt that crate down. I step on the clutch, the crate tips back! Worth every second! Have a great evening! Gary Edited December 11, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 GARY, I doubt that the fuel is running out of the carb or that it evaporated in the cold weather. If it continues to give you a problem there is a brass plug on the side of the float bowel that is the correct level for the fuel in the float chamber. You could remove that easily and see if any trickles out. If it does not then I would remove the top 8 screws and lift off the top of the carb and see whats going on. If it is empty there is something wrong. I believe the 38 carb on mine is different from yours. Also I noticed that in 38 the gas filler is under a fender cover so you can't see the filler and it eliminated the rubber grommet in 1938. 1937 and 38 look similar at first but there are differences. The 37 and 38 were my favorite body styles. Your car looks more beautiful each week. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I suspect that with just the heat from the warmed up engine, modern fuel will evaporate out of the carburetor upon shutdown and sitting for that period of time. I have an electric fuel pump near the gas tank that I use to prime the carburetor if the car has been sitting over an hour or so. It also solves any vapor lock problem in hot weather. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 On #2, mine does that as well at idle. What RPM are you set to? If it's low enough the cutout may be engaging, which definitely will make the needle jump. I know you overhauled the elec system completely, but how was the voltage reg set up? Usually it is best to do the final adjustment while installed in the car. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) Our car can sit for a week or ten days and start instantly with the modern gas in the winter or spring or fall. If it is driven in 100 degree heat during the summer and then parked for an hour the gas will evaporate a little but still start pretty quickly without the use of the electric pump. If it is parked after driving in 100 degree heat and then parked in the garage during the summer for a week or two I need to use the electric pump to prime it. We drive it regularly and park it and it starts almost instantly when we get back in it. It did not do this until one day I put a fuel regulator on the carb. I had lots of carb problems until I put the regulator on it, since then it's a different car, I really don't know how the regulator made such a difference, but in my case it did. Edited December 11, 2017 by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I wouldn't use starting fluid.... It can be extremely harmful to the engine. It it also very misunderstood. It apparenlty exists because typical gas in the 20s had so much kerosene in it that in cold weather it would not vaporize, at all. LAS VEGAS DAVE and MCHinson are on the right track. Find out if the carburetor is truly getting empty. If it is, verify that you heat riser is working properly, and opening when the manifold gets hot. What kind of check valves does the fuel pump have in it? If they are the bakelite disc type, and they are brand new. they probably don't work yet. This can make it very slow to refill the carb at cranking speed. If they are elastomer type (replaced as an assembly) you can probably ignore this. I believe these cars have a drain in the intake manifold to relieve flooding. There should be a ball bearing (or something) that sucks up and closes the drain when the engine starts. Is it there and does it work? With the engine hot, and you think it probably isn't going to start, disable the starter (by disconnecting the battery or whatever) and look down the throat of the carb. Open the throttle and look for the accelerator pump to squirt. Make sure it does. If there is gas in the carb, it should squirt with any movement of the throttle. Lastly, what kind of automatic choke do you have? Is it the original Delco type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Bloo, The check you speak of is only on the bigger engines in '38. Gary, Congratulations. Great job and I understand your elation on being able to "drive"it. My charge indicator needle does the same thing when idling very slowly. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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