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About Randiego

  • Birthday 10/19/1949

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  1. Bonjour, I am happy to add that it is nice to see you back in Switzerland and after attending to other duties, working on the Cadillac once again. Roger, that is absolutely amazing to see the top of the fuel pump completed. So many mico parts that came together to make that assembly. One thing that has always amazed me (and most that visit this site) is that if the parts are painted and placed in a dioarama, no one would know that they are not 1:1 scale. It is truely amazing how detailed these parts are. Looking at the clutch and brake linkages, pedals and booster, that picture is just boggling ! You show us how intricate your planning and craftsmanship are. The results are stunning and again FEW can do what you do. I, like the rest of your following, am looking forward to the next post to see how the completed fuel pump will look. Any more thoughts about what body that you will be mating to the chassis? Actually, a completed chassis would be great WITHOUT the body. It would show all the intricate detail that is usually hidden when a body is attached. There is a great museum in North Los Angeles, the Nethercutt Museum in Sylmar, CA. They have a P2 Rolls Royce chassis on display. It was hidden during WWII in a portion of a factory that was "bricked up" and the allies did not know it existed. It was to be fitted with a body by one of the premier German Coach builders but the war broke out. The owners had it hidden in a munitions factory, behind a bricked up wall. No one was the wiser and somehow, it survivied all the bombing raids that took out the rest of the plant ! ! Mr. J.D. Nethercutt got wind of it back in the late 50's or early 60's when Germany was still divided into East/West. This chassis was in East Germany under the Communist control. They did not know about this chassis. But car people knew about it. Mr. Nethercutt brokered the deal with some East German folks and the chassis was smuggled out of there burried in a load of corn (or cabbage) going to the market in West Germany. Once there, it was shipped to England, then on to California. Mr. Nethercutt had his restoration shop restore the chassis and it was put on display. I saw it back in the early 2000's We heard from the director that they were thinking about mating it to a body but I do not know if that was done. It was stunning as it sat there and Roger, you could see all the marvelous engineering that Rolls Royce built into their P2 chassis. So, with or without a body, your work of art already is magnificent. Randy
  2. Roger, With the internet, the world has shrunk. It is much easier today for shopping for anything. I'm not surprised that you are most successful with the used parts market here in the US. Looking forward to the next item that you will be constructing for the Cadillac. Randy
  3. Roger, Looking at the data sheet(s) on the cars assembled in Bienne and the completed cars imported since the mid thirties, are there auto salvage yards and companies in and around your area that sell used parts? 300K + is a lot of automobiles. When one is "retired", do the local recycle yards snap them up? We use to have a LOT of wrecking yards here in the states. Mainly, they are back East now. Very few (in comparison) in Southern California. And we had the most cars ! When the "cash for klunkers" program was instituted by Obama, a lot of wrecking yards cashed in and scrapped a lot of old classics and not so old cars. Use to be able to go to the salvage yard and get a perfectly good used part to repair (or build) your car. Not any longer. Many, many salvage yards have closed. Seeing the old classics crushed for iron and steel is so sad. Restoring an older car has become a lot more difficult as you are spending a lot of valuable time hunting for parts all over the country instead of in your own back yard. Is that the case there in your area Roger? You work on a lot of old Dynaflo and other transmissions. Are you able to source used parts like when a case is cracked or for some other hard part is bad (not the clutches or soft parts needed for a rebuild)? I am sure that you are not limited to Switzerland when you are sourcing parts. You have Germany, France, Italy and other areas to go to. The internet has shrunk the world. How is your uese part sources these days? We do not have a clue as to how your market(s) are in Europe. It would be interesting to know. Randy
  4. Roger, As to your comment regarding riding in a 30's car, I am wondering if the roadways in Switzerland are narrower and thus a bit more trickey to drive than here in the States? Our roads here in the thirties were narrower than today, but unless you lived in Colorado or other mountainous states, we did not have the terrains that you have in Switzerland. Especially back in the 30's. Granted, our hiways and country roads were not wide like today, but wider than in Europe. The average hi-way speed was in the high 40's low 50's. The dealer would order the car with the usual gearing for the local terrain. In Colorado, for example, the cars came in with low gearing to tackle the mountains. If you lived in the Mid West (Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Oklahoma) where it was relatively flat, the gearing would be higher as there were no steep mountains to climb. I rode in a 34 Packard 7 passanger touring sedan in the St. Louis area. What a road car that was! Huge and smooth. Ditto for the big Buick touring sedan that my friends dad had in his garage at that time. (late 60's). In the cities of Switzerland, are the streets narrow? It would be a job to maneuver a big chassis like the cars of that era possesed. Add cobble stone streets and that would make an interesting ride. Switzerland today has modern roadways but I wonder how they were back in the 30's? We see old movies showing the roadways of that era and the streets looked narrow, twisty and very much European. Hence the cars that were designed for them. Certainly the driver/chaufer of a big Cadillac had to have strong arms to wheel that big car along the roadways of the thrties. My heart would be in my throat if I had to maneuver that big car in and around those narrow streets back in the day....... Randy
  5. Roger is a MAGIC man. Not from this planet but on loan from a distant galaxy. Just amazing work, Roger. I loved your Continental, but I have a deep fondness for cars from the thirties. Engineers did magic with what materials and technology that was available at that time. They were beefy and built for comfort. And the styling was just georgeous. Those huge headlights, driving lights, radiators and stylish fenders/running boards. Those were automobiles. Just remember, roadways were not designed for hi speed travel. Going 50 MPH was tatamount to speeding! Most hi-ways were posted 40-45 MPH. Not until Eisenhower (into the 50's)did we have the Interstate Hiway System. And the cars and suspensions improved. But in the thirties, cars like this Cadillac, were built (structurally) for the poorer roads. A Cadillac or Packard could smooth out most roadways giving the passangers excellent comfort. I wonder what body you will choose for this chassis.....................? We can't wait to see. Randy
  6. Roger, Padon me for getting the wrong scale. At 1:6 scale, these parts would be much easier to fabricate. But at 1:12 scale..........unbelieveable! The difficulty in detailing the transmission, boosters, rods, clevis pins, springs, etc., etc. is mindboggling. This will be your toughest challenge yet. We will be totally in awe when you get this all sorted out and built. A picture of the transmission and shifter by itself is pure art. Painted and by iteself, one would not know that it is 1:12 scale. Just beautiful, Roger. We will be reated to one of the most complicated assemblies in your build. It is amazing how you are duplicating every aspect of this automobile, even though it will not be seen. Certainly one of GM's most georgous vehicles ever produced by their engineers and designers. At our car shows here in San Diego, we always have one or two of the 32 Cadillacs. Up close, these magnificent cars never fail to stop the casual attendant in their tracks. They are the MOST photographed. Two have won "Best of Show" and always "Best in Class". Cars after this era just did not hold up to these georgeous machines. The restoreres certainly do not have the difficulty and challenges that you are going through! But we all know following your threads for so many years, you THRIVE on the difficulties that present themselves to you. This is what is so amazing. How you SOLVE the problems, plus, you explain how you do it. Simply a master at your art. Randy
  7. Roger, For a 30's car, the pictures of the real transmission and hardware is...........boggling to say the least ! Very complex. I wonder how much of that you can duplicate in 1:6 scale? Oh wait, I forgot who I was talking to. Roger, if anybody can master this, it is you. It will be VERY BUSY at that site. The levers, linkages, hoses, booster etc.. etc. The GM engineers went overboard to complicate matters, didn't they? I am sure that it was all necessary but................very complex. I am sure that you will have a solution for all that hardware, though. We will all await your answer to this complex puzzle. Randy
  8. Ah yes, The old dillema of instant gratification. One thing about the new generation, they have NO PATIENCE ! ! ! I tried to explain to a young man (18 years old) that to get a quality job, you have to take the time to put in the effort to get good results. He just looked at me like a deer in the headlights. I have no faith in this "I Phone" generation. If it isin't in an ap or on Google, they are lost. I am sure there are exceptions to this but they are so far removed from the rest of the "herd". There is a guy, David Engles of Engles Coach Shop in Joliet, Montant who is a master wagon builder. And I mean a MASTER (like you). Every phase of wagon construction from wheels to folding tops, he builds from the old parts or from scratch. He is amazing to watch also. Craftsmen like you and he (and a few more) are the reason that we are so fortunate that Youtube came along. Now you can share your art with us all. It is exciting to open up our AACA Forums to see the latest progress that you have accomplished, plus your detaild description on how you overcame the obsticles in the part(s) progress. Just looking at the part dosen't tell the story, but you accompany the pictures with the details as to how you got there along with the trial and error(s) before the part is finished. And Roger, they look sooooooooo amazing. If we did not see you building them and they were photographed by themselves, one would think that they are looking at a full sized 1:1 part. Such is your art. Randy
  9. Roger, As they would say in Germany......... Wunderbar! Really Roger, Getting the components in this minute size is beyond the scope of 99.9% of the modlers out here. And to get the finite details built into every component just leaves me in awe of your skills. You may not be a watchmaker but you certainly have that Swiss ethic for attention to precision and detail. I am sure that others will come along in the future, but for now, you are in the rare either of those that have that "gift" for duplication in minature. Phenomenal, Roger. Randy
  10. Roger, That cannot be a minature starter? It looks so authentic. Great work in shrinking it to that size. With the bands coververing the brush vents, it will be as authentic as the 1:1 starter. This one is more complex with the offset. Amazing.
  11. Roger, Nice job on the starter offset. Owning two 1930's cars, the starter is the same on all this era cars. Depressing the starter button on the floor engages the starter gear into the flywheel and the switch is pushed in, energizing the starter motor. It was this way until Bendix Corp. devised the "starter solenoid" This did away with the foot switch and used the wonderous "new technology" of the electromagnet to thrust the bendix (a sliding gear on the motor shaft) into the flywheel. When the engine caught, you released the button and it would return to the neutral position. Later the key switch was developed with the internal spring. When the engine started, you released the key, returning to neutral and the bendix retracts stopping the starter motor. Most of you all know this but for those who don't ....................... Now, wearing a device (key fob) that emits radio signals to the cars computer letting the car know that the owner is here, unlocking the doors and awaiting the driver to push the start button on the dash with no key. THIS is space age. Unless your battery is dead. 😞 But in the thirties, the "self starter" was fantastic as you did not have to get in front of your automobile and crank the engine over by hand. Many injuries like broken arms and thumbs were suddenly a thing of the past as "Modern Marvels" of the automotive engineer came to be. Today we have a whole new set of items that wear out. Bendixs and solynoids go bad and need replacing. In most cases today, you cannot buy the starter solenoid or bendix assemblies separate from the starter motor (as you could a few years back) unless you know a rebuild shop where you can buy the parts needed. Try to talk to NAPA today. Most of the "kids" there cannot help you if it is not in their computer on the counter. And they only list the parts that move. Older parts are deleted from the computer but they still have them. You just have to have a counter person who knows how to look in the book to find them. (Thank heavens I know an old timer at NAPA who can pull out the book and look up the part and get it ordered for me). Ditto for Carquest, Advanced Auto Parts, O'Rilleys etc., etc. It was much simpler back in the day as the starter was manual using your foot to activate it. The bendixs and solynoids were not there to malfunction or go bad. As long as you had a pedal on the floorboard and your starter motor was in good order, it was failsafe lasting for many, many years before needing attention. My starter has an oil cup to keep the bendix lubed. And my 36 Plymouth has an umbilicle (lube hose) from the bellhousing to the throwout bearing that I give a shot of grease a couple of times a year to keep it healthy. This was part of the lube maintenance for these cars. No such dice today, eh? Suspensions are sealed and last till they go bad. Replacement time is not easy on your pockebook. On that Cadillac Roger, have you ever seen the lube chart for the engine, chassis and suspension parts? I have the one for my Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan. 36 lube points! I even have a special tool that fits over the "gaiters" (spring covers) to lube all 4 of the leaf springs. You lube both sides from the U bolts to the shackles! I was fortunate to find this rare tool on Ebay. Those were the days of preventative maintenance, not planned obsolescence. Once I lube the springs, the ride is quiet and smoooooooth. Like your 72 Cadillac. Randy
  12. Stunning work Roger. And to do this without blueprints........just photos. Years of automotive engineering have given you the experience and skills to "compute" how the part is made and assembled. Not for the faint of heart. As we all look on in awe, it is really amazing to see these minute parts come to "life". From the raw brass to finished component, it is always amazement to see the part in it's finished state. Can't wait to see the next installment............
  13. Roger, Gerald Wingrove made 1:20 scale models that were beautiful and authentic, sans the power seats, power windows. operable lights, etc, etc. He was contracted to build these models and I am sure that his selling prices were expensive as he worked with museums, foundations and private individuals. It would be nice to be able to contact him to see what his cars sold for for a value that you can put on your masterpieces. There has to be someone who could evaluate the Avanti, Toronado and the Mark II for a real value. All the insurance company has to do is follow the threads and see how much WORK, PLANNING and TIME went into these works of art. There is Ken Foran who, like you, is a consumate modeler. His Bell Hellicopter (in Brass) and his Model T are exquisit. I wonder if contacting him may give you a lead on someone who can evaluate and assess the value of your models? Gerald Wingrove has long retired to Spain. I do not know if he is able to be contacted but he may know of a source for valuation. Louis Chernow in Missouri duplicated a Duesenberg in 1:6 scale with a running engine. A very exquisit model that is stunning. It is here in the Craftsmanship Museum here in Carlsbad, CA. I hear he is working on a Garwood tripple cocpit runabout with a WWI Liberty engine. But we have not heard from him in quite a while. And there are a few others, but the operative word here is......FEW. Really.......putting a value on the models would be difficult for us out here as I have been following you for over 10 years, watching you painstakingly fight every battle, overcoming obsticles and finishing each part to perfection. All without factory blue prints to see the actual part in true dimensions. Who else but you Roger, could attain such fantastic results? Maybe a handful of people inhabiting this world. To all of us, they are worth a million ! Until we have a "shrinking machine" you are the only one that I know of doing these classics. You may not be interested in finding out what the models are worth as they are not for resale. But to us out here, they are priceless. Randy
  14. Gary, Matthew is right. A NOS carb that has been sitting on the shelf for so many years has gaskets that are dry and the rubber/neoprene parts have also dried out. With this new "Gasahol" that they are selling today, this is one of the downsides of this fuel. It is designed to burn with less emissions and they have beefed it up with elements to keep fuel injection systems clean. BUT it plays hell with carburetors. If you have a good carburetor contact in your area, consult with him (or her) regarding having the carb rebuilt with modern gaskets and parts. There should be no "weeping" of fuel anywhere on a fresh carburetor. The fact that it is weeping through the base gasket and out the shaft (pin) on the side telegraphs that there is internal leaking. Snugging down the nuts on the base will not stop the leak as it is leaking internally. It sure didn't take long for this great fuel that we have at out disposal to play havoc with your new carb. You may want to look into a source for alcohol free fuel if they sell it in your neck of the woods. Not cheap but it solves the problem. There are sources for that gas or talk to your carb guy about other alternatives that you can add to the pump gas once you get the carb rebuilt. The big problem with this crappy gas is that cars sitting are subject to the alcohol eating away at the pot metal carbs, gaskets and gumming up the internals, eventually leading to poor running and even failure. Unless you live in Eastern Arizona, or other areas in the country that sell alcohol free fuels, we are screwed with this crappy gas. It was not designed with the car hobby in mind. The EPA and their regulators could give a rip about our old cars. Bureaucrats/environmentalists are extremely myopic on this subject. Don't let it pass as it could lead to much larger issues, especially if the leaking gets worse. Good luck and let us know how it works out. Randy
  15. Gary, Great Job. Just when we think that that is the last story on the 37, you surprise us with a new tidbit. I just wish that it is not over yet. Not till the door panel issue is sorted out and that you have a chance (in clear, dry weather) to take it out and video the drive. That would be great to see and hear it running and cruising down the road. Do you have a Go Pro or your Nikon that can film the event? If so, we would love to watch it. I was fortunate on my 36 Plymouth P 2 that the dash throttle cable works and I use it to warm up the car before I take it out for a cruise. One product that I found that is fantastic. From Jay Leno's Garage, I saw him interview the guy that has the "Little Egypt Garage". He has a great turn signal system that is battery operated and wireless remote. I installed the system on my car in less than an hour. Very easy. The sequential signal lights mounted on my trunk (They are L E D) and operate from the control unit mounted on the steering column. You simply turn it on at the tail light housing and when you are driving down the road, you press either right turn or left turn. It also has a brake light button which operates all the lights for a stop light. SInce I have factory brake lights on the P2, I do not use that feature but no more rolling down the window to use my arm to indicate a left or right. Besides, this younger generation have no idea what you are doing. They think that you are ready to flip them off or such rot. Great product. They work and look great, not messing with the harmony of the wiring of the car. It is comforting to know that people can see your intent to turn or change lanes. Randy
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