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Everything posted by Randiego

  1. Gary, Matthew is right. A NOS carb that has been sitting on the shelf for so many years has gaskets that are dry and the rubber/neoprene parts have also dried out. With this new "Gasahol" that they are selling today, this is one of the downsides of this fuel. It is designed to burn with less emissions and they have beefed it up with elements to keep fuel injection systems clean. BUT it plays hell with carburetors. If you have a good carburetor contact in your area, consult with him (or her) regarding having the carb rebuilt with modern gaskets and parts. There should be no "weeping" of fuel anywhere on a fresh carburetor. The fact that it is weeping through the base gasket and out the shaft (pin) on the side telegraphs that there is internal leaking. Snugging down the nuts on the base will not stop the leak as it is leaking internally. It sure didn't take long for this great fuel that we have at out disposal to play havoc with your new carb. You may want to look into a source for alcohol free fuel if they sell it in your neck of the woods. Not cheap but it solves the problem. There are sources for that gas or talk to your carb guy about other alternatives that you can add to the pump gas once you get the carb rebuilt. The big problem with this crappy gas is that cars sitting are subject to the alcohol eating away at the pot metal carbs, gaskets and gumming up the internals, eventually leading to poor running and even failure. Unless you live in Eastern Arizona, or other areas in the country that sell alcohol free fuels, we are screwed with this crappy gas. It was not designed with the car hobby in mind. The EPA and their regulators could give a rip about our old cars. Bureaucrats/environmentalists are extremely myopic on this subject. Don't let it pass as it could lead to much larger issues, especially if the leaking gets worse. Good luck and let us know how it works out. Randy
  2. Gary, Great Job. Just when we think that that is the last story on the 37, you surprise us with a new tidbit. I just wish that it is not over yet. Not till the door panel issue is sorted out and that you have a chance (in clear, dry weather) to take it out and video the drive. That would be great to see and hear it running and cruising down the road. Do you have a Go Pro or your Nikon that can film the event? If so, we would love to watch it. I was fortunate on my 36 Plymouth P 2 that the dash throttle cable works and I use it to warm up the car before I take it out for a cruise. One product that I found that is fantastic. From Jay Leno's Garage, I saw him interview the guy that has the "Little Egypt Garage". He has a great turn signal system that is battery operated and wireless remote. I installed the system on my car in less than an hour. Very easy. The sequential signal lights mounted on my trunk (They are L E D) and operate from the control unit mounted on the steering column. You simply turn it on at the tail light housing and when you are driving down the road, you press either right turn or left turn. It also has a brake light button which operates all the lights for a stop light. SInce I have factory brake lights on the P2, I do not use that feature but no more rolling down the window to use my arm to indicate a left or right. Besides, this younger generation have no idea what you are doing. They think that you are ready to flip them off or such rot. Great product. They work and look great, not messing with the harmony of the wiring of the car. It is comforting to know that people can see your intent to turn or change lanes. Randy
  3. Roger, Regarding your faulting the model and yourself........................BUNK ! Never have I seen such a creation as what you have done here. We know it is perfect as you would not skip or let a little "flaw" pass. You would think on it then come back with the answer showing us how you accomplished the solution to the problem. Now it is a MASTERPIECE. What is left to do on the Continental now? Are the windows in? Plus, did you get the license plates made yet? And the battery box. Just a few items that I was thinking about. We all come to this site like "moths drawn to the candle". We all want to see what you have done next. It is a rewarding release after all the pressures of the day to sit down and open the site and follow this great story. Do continue with the Tornado's work as we will all like to see what you do with it. What will be really amazing is to see the Continental in "low light" with the headlamps turned on and the tail lights and license plate lights burning. You are the master ! Randy
  4. Gentlemen, I have been remiss in not getting back to you all regarding my P2. First of all, thank you for your kind words. I had my local auto electric specialty shop do the wiring harness install. It went in with not issues and all is working great. The head lights, tail lights, break lights, running lights, interior light, dash lights, horn, and heater. All is working great. Recently, I ordered the remote turn signal kit from Little Egypt Garage and I must say, it was one of the easiest installs that I have ever done. NO WIRING ! ! Wireless control. The P2 had factory break lights but no turn signals. This rear L E D light works off of radio signal. I mounted it on the trunk lid. Either the trunk lid was replaced with a later model lid as there were two "carriage" bolts in the middle as on later models, that was where the license plate mounted with the license plate light. My tail/brake lights are mounted on the rear fenders with the license plate mounted above the left rear tail light with the clear lense illuminating the plate. But as you know, from the factory, they did not have turn signals back then. It was the ol" roll down the window and hang your arm out to give the signal for the turn, rain or shine, sleet, snow what have you. I was watching Jay Leno and he had an old car with the owner of Little Egypt Garage on showing the turn/brake signal assembly installed on Jays car. (Jay has over 15 of them installed on his early cars so far). The beauty (and ease) of this product is that there is no wiring. It is done by radio signal to the light cluster in the rear. If you do not have a brake light, it even has that feature also. Great product and I had it on in less than an hour. Now I can drive with peace of mind regarding signaling my intent to change lanes or turn. Just push a button and the light flashes (sequentially). Mine is mounted half way up the trunk and the visibility is excellent. IF you have not checked out this product yet, do so. It is well worth the investment for safety and peace of mind. It has been over a year since I did the spedo/instrument cluster overhaul. The guages work and the spedo not only works but is accurate to boot. And they look like new. Do not be afraid to tackle this job. I got another instrument/spedo cluster from a fellow club member. The spedo did not work but the guages were all there. Instead of sending my original out to the spedo shop and spending a lot of money I decided to do the spedo myself. Since my fuel/temp/oil gages worked, I retained them. I just carefully cleaned the faces of the gages and they looked like new. Take your time and lay all of the parts out on a suitable cloth or towel on your work bench. Take a lot of pictures for reference and study each component as you take it off. It is NOT rocket science and is not that hard to do. Hell, if I can do it, so can you. I used Acetone on the speedometer gears and stems to clean the old grease off. Be very careful of the spring on the needle shaft. You do not have to fiddle with that as it is all in one part. (unless yours is bent, broken or ?) If that is the case, a good speedometer shop should have replacement springs available. (Some will not sell you the parts but will insist on rebuilding the spedo for you). The needle will come off of the stem and that can be (if needed) polished as you can see in my pictures. After all is clean, re assemble with a good grade of moly grease, insuring that you have all the gears and spindles lubricated. Note where the factory had a lot of grease packed around the gears and duplicate the amount that they applied to the area. After all, it lasted a long time before it would no longer function. That was because the car sat and sat and sat without being driven. The grease coagulated and would not allow the indicator needle to move, hence no speed indicating. Notice that I used sheet cork for my gasket and a Manilla file for the other gasket. I took off the blue bands (light diffusers) that surround the cluster. They were not in good shape. I found some matching mylar (Index file tabs) and duplicated them from the new material. You can get the sheet cork from Bangor Cork in Bangor Maine. I purchased a 1' X 1' sheet. It cost more for the shipping than the product. I ordered several more sheets in different thicknesses for future needs as the cost was reasonable. My local hobby store or hardware store did not stock any sheet cork. Bangor Cork was the answer. I used a regular Manilla file for the other gasket. It was the right thickness and worked great for that application. I cleaned the face of the spedo and surround VERY CAREFULLY. It is painted on and unless your face is rusted or compromised, it should clean up easily. I used a miracle fiber cloth and diluted Simple Green solution. Take you time and after you have cleaned it up, rinse it thoroughly in tepid water. Then dry it with a soft cloth. Then I waxed it with a pure silicone paste wax. (I still have a tin of Blue Coral two stage wax product. No longer available). I polished the bright surround with Flitz metal polish, bringing the surface back to its shiny luster. Also, be careful with the glass lens that goes over the face. THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE. IF you drop it, it will break. So be careful. All in all, this was one of the most rewarding jobs that I did on my old classic. What is comforting is that every time that I get in, I look at the instrument cluster and I know that I did that. I did not farm that out to someone else. Plus I took my time with it and really "detailed" the facia and the gages. It looked better than new when I was done with it. It really looks great at night. The P2 has a two position switch under the left side of the dash. You can select low or bright illumination. And since all of the gages are in the one cluster, the "Cyclops Eye" will stare back at you. A really neat feature of the 36. My "Firestone" radio did not come in the car. I found it on line and purchased it from a seller. It is made by Stewart Warner. They made a lot of radios in that era for different companies to sell. I took it to the Antique Radio Store here in San Diego. Jeff, the owner, is a radio technician for the County of San Diego and works on all kinds of radio equipment. In his store, he has a ton of antique radio sets from the 20's through the 50's. He replace a lot of old parts with modern capacitors and the like. The radio head, (I cleaned up) is a small round dial with the Firestone name on it. There are two knobs that operate twist cables that go down to the radio/speaker box that I mounted on the firewall above the clutch/brake pedals to the left of the steering column. I had Jeff install a MP3 (? I think that is the name) port for a cable to my cell phone. When I plug in the cable in to my cell phone and then into the radio, I play from Pandora old music from the thirties and forties. When I go to a car event, my radio is playing period music. People come over and are amazed that that is not a "CD". Pretty cool. That is the update on my Plymouth. It is such an enjoyable car to drive and turns heads everywhere I go. For 82 years and a survivor (motor has never been apart) with only the suspension and brakes redone, it drives like a dream. It cruises at 60 to 65 MPH. I do not push it further than that. After all, that is SPEEDING for a 30's era car. Most drove around 45 to 50 MPH in the day. Randy
  5. Now it truly is a HAPPY NEW YEAR ! ! ! What a saga that we all have been watching. Professional shops could not have done a better job. Your attention to the most minute details really inspire me to do a better job. I learned from you one major lesson. Plan, plan, plan. Some times, I just take the item apart only to be stymied by some glitch like misplacing a small component and wondering where the H--- I placed it. From now on, my workshop will be like a Swiss watch factory.................CLEAN and organized. You inspired and impressed us all with your cleanliness and meticulous attention to the details. A lesson for us all. Having a three car garage that you worked in and not a "shop" really awed us. To have done this remarkable job in your garage boggles the mind. And the results are stunning. I watch Antiques Roadshow on PBS on occasion. In the beginning of the show, they have in their intro scenes of St. Louis and on the curb is none other than your car.......................a 1937 Buick. Black two door to boot. SO..... you are in possession of a "star" ! ! Mrs. W and the family must be very proud of your work too. Now for warm weather to take this gracious beauty out for a ride in the surrounding countryside. Thank you for sharing this great story and I too have learned from you and your methods. A big shout out to the Buick Owners of America. Seems like a great group of people who were there to assist in your work. Have a Happy, Healthy, Prosperous New Year, Gary. P.S. We cannot wait to see your next "rescue". As young as you are, you have a lot of years (and cars) to restore. What will be your next one?
  6. Roger, The lettering for the license plate look absolutely perfect for such a small size. Tres Bien. Again, a master at work. It cooled down here to the 50's and much colder at night. Nothing like a Swiss winter though. We are WIMP's here in Southern California. The rest of the nation is in a very cold snap and I am sure that Winter is setting in in your city. But with the snow, it makes for a very cheery Holiday. So........May you and your family have a very Merry Christmas and a healthy, happy New year. Randy
  7. Gary, It is hard to feature that the handle rubs the fabric on one side. There is a Gnome hiding in your door waiting for you to let him out. This next year, will be you taking the family out in your spectacular Buick for a weekend drive. Such a beautiful car only to be hung up with these last little issues. But we all know that you will prevail. Now if LB would just deliver the items for you to finish the interior. Anyway, have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Randy
  8. Gents, I have been away for a while and I want to thank you for all your responses. I was trying to keep my valve "authentic" with the look. I never thought that the local auto parts stores would have the valve as they were not used after the 50's. Most of the items in the auto parts stores these days are Chinese junk. The metal is far inferior to what we had available to us just a few short years ago. I will check with Restoration Parts as it is 20 minutes from my location and a few others. I, like Don M, want to keep the authentic look. Plus the valve body of his looks to be bronze. It just wouldn't do to put a cad plated housing with a "T" valve handle. Those did not exist back in the day. I will search in earnest and report back who has the correct valve. Thank you all for your input. Randy
  9. Gary, Seems that it is the "hurry up and wait" game regarding getting the proper parts and materials in the restoration game. I have been waiting for over two and a half months to get my radiator for my 36 Pontiac. We are down to two or three manufacturers of radiators here stateside. All the new radiators are aluminum/plastic throw away models. Made in China, Mexico or ? ? My local radiator guy said that he could get the core in a week. Well, seems that the old guys that use to build the "honeycomb" cores are few and far in between. And to top it all off, the Pontiac radiators (and who knows which others) have a 45 degree bevel at the top of the core. My original radiator is a two row. The straight eight's all had three rows. I am having one made for my fellow Pontiac member back in Minnesota. His is an 8. His local source wanted $4,800.00 for a radiator. And my friend had the old radiator! I told him to send it to me here in San Diego. My guy is building two of them for $900.00. That is $450.00 each ! ! New 3 row cores and the tanks and support housings and fittings installed ! But they will not be the "honeycomb" style. These new guys do not have the experience to do that type of core. I am sure that you all have a source for good radiator work back East. The reason for my reply; My Plymouth and Pontiac both have the water shut off VALVE (copper tipped bolt that turns & seats in a conical seat) that is basically a fitting that screws into the top of the head or, in some cases, the block. The seat in the housing and bolt on both of my cars are corroded beyond repair. Fashioning a new one on my lathe is not an easy proposition. The bolt is not a problem but fabricating a new fitting (with the copper internal conical seat) that screws into the block is out of my wheelhouse. I have been looking around and have not found one yet. Seems that all the manufacturers used this shut off valve. So...........the company that made them for all the manufacturers back then is probably gone. Does any of you Buick guys have a source for this shut off valve? It probably is the same for all the 30's cars. Your help with this quest will be appreciated. Randy L Your
  10. Gary, The installation looks great. Very professional for an amateur. One thing really p*&&*s me off is the people that are "supplying" restoration parts to our hobby. They think that they can produce inferior parts and have us happy with their junk. If I were making a replacement door lock button, I would have the decency to at least make it look like the one that it is replacing. AND I would have it pre threaded so that it would not crack when the customer is putting it on. Most of them are going to Asia to get the parts made. "Cheaper" is the main quotient here. And they have the balls to offer their junk to the serious restorer looking for a good product. I would not mind paying a few dollars more for a replacement part if it looked the same and would function as the original did. I am so disappointed with so many products that I was told that they would be like the original only to find when I received them, they were any thing but. I send them back and end up restoring or making my parts as best as I can vs. using their Chinese crap. On occasion, you can find someone who really cares about our hobby and will put out a good replacement part. Recently, I had a gentleman restore my gas tank sending unit. I talked to him and he told me to send me the dash gauge along with the tank unit. He restored my sending unit and calibrated my gauge, ensuring me that when I installed the sending unit, I would get an accurate reading for the amount of gas that was in the tank. He is Wolfe Engineering if you, or any of the forum members in the future, need to know a company that does outstanding work and will deliver on what they say. As far as the guys out there proclaiming to be suppliers of "restoration parts", most are selling sub standard crap. I have had better luck on Ebay buying original parts from estate sales than I have had with "catalogs" from suppliers. Very disappointing. Your Buick looks better than the day it was delivered to the dealer back in 37. A testament to your planning, diligence, and artful craftsmanship. Not much left to do on your "list", eh? Great work, Gary. Randy
  11. Gary, I can't say that a professional upholstery shop could have done a better job than you have. You have been so meticulous with this restoration, fitting the headliner, door panels, welting and the interior trim moldings with the seams all in alignment is as professional as it gets. Great job. When do they deliver the seat upholstery or do you already have them? Can't wait to see you do the seats. Randy
  12. Roger, Note how we are all excited about your jack. The work to do the trunk crest with the correct decal in the background was probably a lot more intricate and time consuming than planning and fabricating the jack. But any of us who have helped our dad in changing a tire on one of the 50's model GM cars can attest to how heavy they were and how important it was to get the jack in the correct position. On my dad's 56 Buick Special station wagon, he was always having the tires checked at the local service station before we went on any of our outings. Still , fate would sometimes deal us with a blow out and we would limp to the side of the hi way where my older brother and I would assist my dad in changing the tire. Mind you, it was not often but when it did happen, it was an event. Little things like chocking the tire, breaking the lug nuts loose before jacking up the car, wrestling the spare out from the compartment and doing the proper torquing of the lug nuts was all part of the lesson that was handed down by my father to me and my brother. And not to be out done, mom standing there with a wet and dry towel to clean our hands when we were done. Lest we get our clothes and the car dirty. Life in the 50's. Uncomplicated and much simpler. Today, the new cars don't even come with a spare or jack ! ! Boy how we have evolved. Randy
  13. Roger, A while back I was just wondering about the jack. And here you have constructed one...........THAT WORKS ! ! But like Keiser's wife's comments; OF COURSE IT WORKS ! WHY WOULDN'T IT?. She said it all. If you have functioning window switches, power seats, functioning emergency brake, why wouldn't a functioning jack work? For me, it looks pretty straight forward to make. Much less complicated than a window regulator or an E brake assembly. Like the rest of the followers of your thread, we have practically run out of descriptives to comment on with the next item that you fabricate or a new problem that arises and how you overcome it. Just Amazing. Like the previous comments. It will be a bitter/sweet day when the masterpiece is completed. On that day, there will be a void in the universe ! NO ROGER Z to tune into. You really should think about another model to do.............................................. :-) (I know that it is a selfish wish but with the demise of everything else in this world, your thread is something that we look forward to.......and enjoy). Randy
  14. Gary, I don't know if a professional upholstery shop could have done as nice a job as what you have done here. Unless they took the car apart and had the experience in putting it back together, it would not have been as nice. Since you are not a "shop" you have the luxury of taking your time, test fitting and checking, fitting and checking until all is lined up correctly. The results are absolutely stunning. Plus you have the Forum members to council you on questions that may be puzzling you with the small items that you are not certain of. Your installation is truly a work of art. And the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. I cannot imagine what you would have had to pay to have this job done by a high end upholstery shop, but it would have been a very large expense in your restoration. And it probably would not have been done as nicely as your job. Who knows what corners they may have "cut" to get the job done? You have not missed a trick with this. I am in question about the clearance of your door handle. Does the passenger side have the same issue? And do the pictures show how much clearance there was originally? If the clearance was there, then it has to be the mounting of the stem? If that checks out, then there has to be an issue with the panel and the fabric not seating against the frame properly? We are sure that you will figure it out. You are too finite of an individual to let that get past you. I am sure that it is whirling about in your head and that there is an answer to the mystery. All I can say is.......WOW. You have done such a fantastic job with the upholstery. Can't wait to see the seats being done and then installed. That will be the end of the job? Or are there any other items left to do? Randy
  15. Thanks Guys. I will contact Bob's to see if they have one that will work. Randy
  16. OOPS, I just read Dave's reply. Jute backed rubber front floor mat was standard. Seems all the 30's cars were with front rubber floor mats. Randy
  17. Gentlemen, Thank you for your tips on my floor mat dilemma. I will contact Bob"s Memorabilia (I have procured the gearshift boot in brown from him. The Pontiac gearshift boot is the same as the Buick/Chevy/Olds boot and it was available in brown (along with black). I will chat with them regarding the floor mat. Again, did the Buick come with a rubber floor mat in the front? Or was it "upscale" with a carpeted front area? Randy
  18. Roger, Great looking spare cover. One question. Are you going to make the jack and handle and label for the inside of the trunk lid? I was wondering (on the 1:1 Continental) where they had the jack and handle strapped inside the trunk? Was in in the fender pocket on the side or up on the back shelf? Anyway, I am sure that you have been thinking about that issue. The model has so many features, I did not know if the jack and handle were on your "radar". Also, where was the trunk light mounted? On the trunk lid or on the side? Or did they have one? Randy
  19. Gents, Since this is a little used site, I was wondering if there was another site for the "Flatheads" (other than the POCI Early Times Division) that one can go to for help in parts and service for the 1930s Pontiacs? You show a lot of 40-50s cars and with little use of this site, it would be helpful if one could find another source for help. Randy
  20. Gary and 1930's Buick owners, Originally, did the Buick's come with a carpeted front floor mat? Or were they a rubber, embossed (at the accelerator pedal and clutch/brake) area below the pedals? The Chevy, Pontiac Olds all seem to have the rubber floor mat in the drivers compartment. If it did come with the rubber, do you have a rubber mat available to you, the Buick owners? Originally, they were either black or in my case, brown. Brown pedals, gearshift knob, steering wheel, transmission boot, emergency brake boot. And the sad point. No one makes the rubber mat for the mid 30's GM cars. (at least for Pontiac). Since there are a limited number of Pontiacs out there, the demand for the items are (almost?) non existent. I was told by the P.O.I.C. that there are around 100 of the coupes left in the world. Hence my desire to restore one. But there are voids in the parts hunt that make it very difficult to complete the restoration. The interior kit is one. The brown floor mat is the other. I guess that I could do as you have done here, Gary and make a carpet that can be installed in the front floor. I have a later rubber mat that someone makes (for the later models that he says that will fit) but it is not the brown that was as the original. It is almost translucent and a lighter caramel brown. Being in California (and I probably won't enter the car for judging) and lacking in inclement weather, I can take some liberties to make the car "nicer" with a floor that is carpeted. I am leaning towards the wool carpet as is used in the Jaguar (very nice and a bit more plush than the LBB carpet). If any one else has a source or suggestions, I will be very receptive to hearing from you on this subject. One thing; once all the old "barn finds" are restored, I wonder if there will be any source for after market products if the demand dwindles? It seems to be harder to find parts today than it was just 8 years ago. Randy
  21. Gary, You're back ! ! G lad that your kit is coming soon. Finally, you will be able to finish the beautiful Buick and drive it before the cold weather is upon you. All you guys are getting your interior kits. LBB gave me sad news. They do not make a kit for my 36 Pontiac Coupe. I will have to order the fabric and reference pictures of other cars and hopefully, I will get it right. Funny how LBB makes most cars interior kits but they do not have Pontiac kits (at least for the 36 models). They have Chevrolet but not Pontiac. Go figure. Guess they do not have enough demand for the Pontiacs? I even offered the headliner, seat and door panels to LBB for a pattern for my and future kits. No dice. I wanted to do my interior myself but without the pre made kits, it leaves me relying on the upholstery shop. And face it, the interior is just as important as the rest of the car. There are no shortcuts to a good looking finish. Randy
  22. Roger, Seat belts? They did not even come onto the scene till the sixties. And then they were an afterthought. For years we were riding around in our cars unfettered (and un strapped), sliding across the seat to see something that one of our siblings saw on their side of the car. Of course, we had to see it too. My little sister use to stand up between my mom and dad in the front seat. Oh the horrors of un checked safety (or lack of it) back in the 50's. I swear, if I had the picture of the Mark II blown up, one could swear that that was a full sized automobile. Your attention to every little detail just amazes me. It is so accurate in every sense (that we can see). How you got the body bucks so accurate is mind boggling. Now we know why it has taken so much time. Looking at the end results is why. Perfection. It is beautiful, Roger. Each installment that you do is what we look forward to. Randy
  23. Roger, The moment has arrived. Mating the chassis to the body is monumental as all the small fittings, linkages, wires and cables are to be connected. I just hope that it goes smoothly as all your previous work has been met with adjustments, modifications, eliminations, etc., etc. We have been watching you bring this amazing model along and it is something that we all look forward to every time we log on to the site. All the progress is culminating to this point. Where the model becomes one element. It is a beautiful model. Great work Roger.
  24. What Roger? No video crew at your front door to do a video of you sweating and contorting with the mating of the body to the chassis? What fun is that? JUST KIDDING. How you are keeping all of the assembly components in order and working as you do the assembly is, as always, boggling ! We all hope that all goes well with the assembly of the electrical. I hope that "Murphy's Law" is not present as you do this very intricate, complicated task. What size batteries are you going to use for operation of the electrical? Two "D" batteries or ? I am guessing that the box holding the batteries will be finished as a large battery. I could use you here in wiring my engine test stand as the Pontiac wiring schematic is for an engine IN the car. It isn't that complicated but........nothing like an engineer to sort out the particulars. For example, I am using an ammeter vs. the "gen light" that is in my instrument panel. I am assuming that I have to wire it into the generator outlet lead to pick up what the generator is producing? Being DC, it is not that complicated and I will figure it out. Electrical is not my strong suit. But the early automotive electrical is much easier than what is presented today in these modern marvels. I also lucked out. One of our Pontiac club members came across my missing link. I finally landed my hands on a 1936 Harrison Radiator that is correct for my car. It is now being re cored and I should have it back next week so I can install it on my test stand, hook up the hoses, fill the cooling system and get ready for my engine start. I hope that I can post a video of the engine start up and running. I spent a lot of time building this engine stand but as I said in my previous post, it is better to run the engine in before it is installed. Do you have a lot of members in the European car groups that come to you for component work on their cars? Seems that you do a lot of Hydramatic transmission rebuilds. And I bet when you are done with them, they are.......................................perfect. Randy
  25. Roger, Great, great work, Roger. If one did not see the beginning of this saga, they would not have a clue as to how this Continental came to be. As all have attested, this stage of the model is inspiring to see all of those components that we saw you make from the beginning, coming together, is like the puzzle. You start with the border, advancing to assembling the different sections of the picture and before you know it, the last piece of the puzzle is put in place. To think that the linkage will be attached to the body is mind boggling. Just to make this model with all the components like the 1:1 car and then to ATTACH them where one cannot even get a tool between the firewall and the engine is beyond amazement. We would like a video of you doing the attachment, (maybe not the sound with all the cursing going on :-) ) seeing how you accomplish that task. How the small rods and cable linkages attach is a wonder. Take plenty of pictures at this stage. Each will tell a story of a thousand words. Baffling ! ! That day is coming when the car will be complete. From here on in, I will be watching raptly for every post, seeing what has been assembled next. Randy