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Roger Zimmermann

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Roger Zimmermann last won the day on November 16 2019

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About Roger Zimmermann

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1945

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Switzerland
  • Interests:
    US cars, red wine, sunbathing in summer (too cold for that in winter!),Fats Domino music

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  1. Martin, this is the guide for the crankshaft pulley you can see. Somewhat oversize, I don't have to spare! The fan will rotate with the hand crank; there will be no electric motor inside.
  2. On top of the distribution case, there is an integrated casting for the distributor and to attach the cooling fan. I decided to make that piece from a brass block with milling/filing. Once the part was ready, I began to mill/file an aperture at the distribution case which was not an so easy task. When the fitting of the past pleased me, it was silver soldered to the assembly. On one picture, there is a hole at the back of the distribution case; this is the pilot hole for the generator. I did also the hollow at the crankcase for the generator clearance. Just for the fun, I did the last p
  3. Thanks John! I hope you will apreciate the next pictures. To continue the crankcase, I began to delimitate the place for the engine blocks. The RH one has an offset equal to the width of a connecting rod's journal, 2.4mm on the model (0.095"). Then, I did the narrow wall ending the crankcase at the engine blocks. I still have to do the same at the rear. Then I soldered the rear part of the distribution case but larger than the final shape. Then came the big question: how to proceed further? The most reasonable solution was the shape the flange on which the end cover will be attac
  4. After a short vacation (we had to go back home earlier because of the virus), the "work" on the engine could resume. The side from the crankcase are now silver soldered to the base. It makes an incredible long engine, but rather narrow. I don't know yet how I will do the rear of the crankcase as I have too few pictures from that place but, no worry, I will find a way.
  5. You got a nice tool! It's incredible how the fire's fumes can affect the sky...
  6. I was almost sure that the base should not be sanded, at least it was told to me years ago. I was thinking "well, things may change" but at the end, they don't.
  7. Congratulation, the first part from your answer is correct! However, the main goal is not for soldering (but it can help). As you don't know how the crankcase is looking, the right answer was difficult to guess. The crankcase is made with aluminum; to attach the oil pan, studs are inserted into that casting. As the flange is too thin, there are bosses for the studs. At first, I intended to solder each boss individually either before or after soldering the sides. Anyway, those small things would have been difficult to solder at the right distance from each other. Finally, I came with that
  8. The details are making the "salt" from a model! Doing an engine with flat stock is always an adventure. Even if the crankcase sides are rather flat, there are logically still curves. For the moment, the curves are far away, I have to make the foundations. The first parts are less than glamourous as you can see below. Those 3 parts are the base for the crankcase and both sides. But why there are dents on the parts representing the sides?
  9. Thanks James! However, I doubt that my IQ is above the average, unless fingers have their own IQ! The 6 blades were made with a thinner brass; they were pre-drilled, shaped and polished. The assembly to the support was done with 30 rivets, without almost no damage to the polished surface. The rivets are done with a thin copper wire, 0.5 mm in diameter (0.02") and ....riveted with modified tools I used for the frame's rivets. Now that the very front end of the engine is done, I definitively have to go rearwards. I will begin the crankcase soon; this is originally a cast aluminum p
  10. If you look at the picture below, you will see that GM said in 1973 already, that the 13 character string was called a... VIN. Further: the location behind the windshield came much later on cars made in Europe when not exported to the US. The serial number or VIN is used to identify the vehicle on the title or the document belonging to the vehicle. This is why I wrote that to me it's the same.
  11. You are welcome! I got the info from the book" Catalog of American cars, ID numbers 1950-1959" edited from Cars & Parts magazine, published in 1993. I bought that book for about 25 years; I don't think it's still available.
  12. Serial number or vehicle identification number...Technically it's the same! Most people now are only have the VIN in their mind, therefore, I don't do the difference.
  13. Aly, this is not the VIN plate, this is the body plate. Here is what it says: 51 = 1951 3667DTX (and not 36670TX): Super 88 Deluxe convertible coupe with hydraulic top control L = assembly plant Lansing MI 161 = production sequence Trim #15 = red leather Paint # 50 = black I don't have the codes for the top nor accessories. I seems that there is nothing on your plate. The VIN plate is on the LH body pillar post. Your VIN will be 518L....
  14. Nice wheels Murco! You are using a different technique to get your goal; as you know, I have a different philosophy. Which is "right"? There are many answers possible, the most important is that you and me are pleased with what we are doing. Why don't you open you own thread with your construction? Before I did the controversial hub, I built the support for it. This support will be screwed on the crankcase and is designed to let rise or lower the pulley and fan assembly to have the correct tension of the belt. At that time, the belt did not drive the generator nor the water pump
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