Roger Zimmermann

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Roger Zimmermann last won the day on November 16 2019

Roger Zimmermann had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,048 Excellent


About Roger Zimmermann

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1945

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
  • Interests:
    US cars, red wine, sunbathing in summer (too cold for that in winter!),Fats Domino music


  • Biography
    I will be 65 years old this year (2010); I'm a male not married.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,110 profile views
  1. Recently, I added a small shaft for a brake lever at the front brake shields as well as the insert for the bolt limiting the steering angle. One challenge was to drill a 0.4mm for the cotter pin. It's good to practice now because there are a lot of cotter pins on that frame! Then, I began the lever which will be actuated by a cable. I'm adding a picture showing the set-up for the front wheels; the picture is from a restored 1932 V-8 brake shield assembly, which is almost identical to the V-16 one. To replicate cast parts is taking a lot of time; I was aware of it! As I cannot cast small or large parts, I have to do them differently. The second picture is showing the lever and limiting bolt from the RH brake shield, + the parts which are constituting that lever: a shaft, 3 "bearings". The smaller ones are drilled entirely, the large one only up to the middle. The assembly is done with soft solder. After that, the final holes for the various pins/shaft are drilled. Finally, the width of the assembly will be corrected; to facilitate the construction, the "bearings" are larger (or longer if you like).
  2. Probably the method to pull the bushing was not ideal: the piston is a cast part; the surface on which the special tool rested is not 100% perpendicular to the axle. I would imagine a device to guide the bushing using the free hole from the piston and the inside diameter from the bushing. With that, even if the tool is not perfectly perpendicular, the bushing will not be canted. If you can guide the bushing the right way into the piston, you will probably be able to save it as the shaving was not on the whole surface.
  3. During our short vacation in France, I took the raw material which will be the pattern to shape the frame and I began to work on it. It's 5mm thick, therefore, I cannot prepare it at home, I have no suitable vise. That piece of brass is 420 mm long or 16.6" Back home, I'm continuing the brake shields by adding the various element to make the brakes operable.
  4. It will be definitively have a better fit and finish as when it left the factory! Very nice work.
  5. Then, I could be able to help you more than with your present project!
  6. Happy New Year to all! The end of 2019 was not kind with my front brake shields, I will relate it later. First I'm showing the various steps to shape the second brake shield. I prepared a piece of brass large enough; drilled some small holes to prevent too much damage, first picture. After 1/3 stroke, I checked how the metal is taking its new shape; no problem to report; this is the second picture. At 2/3 of the stroke, the metal is already torn at one end (third picture). Dies builder is a profession; probably there is a method to avoid the issue (choice of metal, various steps, etc.). Once completely pressed, the damage is obvious, but smaller than with the first shield, fourth picture. A patch will be silver soldered anyway. I began then to trim the center, to make the needed space for the knuckle. The first problem I encountered was with the shape of the recess at the top: I did the corner's cuts at 45° and I could not put the knuckle high enough! By looking at the pictures I have, I saw that the corners are at about 25 to 30°. I modified both dies to the new shape and I tried to rework the shields by pressing them again. No problem, the brass was soft enough to accept the new shape. Then, I could finish the aperture for the knuckle. I put a drum on the "assembly" (the shield being just pushed on the knuckle) to note that the drum is resting on the brake shield! What to do to get those 0.5mm interference away? Well, the first step was to modify the ears on which the shields are attached by removing 0.25mm. More was not advisable because they were 0.7mm thick. Then, I modify the dies once more by carving the recess by an additional 0.2mm. Here again, I got no protest from the shields and no damage. The third step I will do is to modify the inside of the drums to have just enough clearance. I assembled a brake shield on a knuckle (fifth picture); I still have a slight interference; the drums modification will get rid of that. While I was with the camera, I redid a picture showing how the flange are shaped with a small hammer; this is the last picture.
  7. Thanks Paulie! I'm using 0.3mm half hard brass (0.012"). I annealed the rear ones; I tried the first front one without heat. I annealed the brass just to finish the shield and, of course to silver solder the repair.
  8. After the rear brake shields were ready, it was time to modify the dies to press the front shields. At first, I was thinking that the shape is easy; well it was the case to do the separate male insert. The female job was not that easy. The almost rectangular cavity could be milled, but the half round one was more difficult to get. Milling was not an option, at least not with my basic machine. I removed almost all the metal with grinding and finished it with a hand tool, shaving the brass until the insert was flush with the flat surface. The male insert was then attached to the other die with a screw. Then came the moment of truth: will the brass be torn as the cavity is rather deep? Nothing bad happened at mid way, but at the end it was torn at the end of the cavity. To repair it, I cut the damaged spot, pressed a bit brass, adjusted and silver soldered it. This repair took much more time than pressing the shield! Now, I have to do the second one; most probably the same damage will occur; then I can show with a picture or two what I intended to explain.
  9. Interesting story...Anyway, you certainly had no trouble to travel with that light vehicle on the trailer, especially traveling so many miles. We had more difficulties when my '72 de Ville was transported from the customs in Zurich to Bienne (about 100 miles) because the car was a tad too far back, plus the weight from the spare parts in the trunk! At more than 40 MPH, the trailer began to dance...
  10. I'm wondering if the black paint from the fenders was an inferior quality as the body; could be that the body had a repaint but the fenders not?
  11. Thanks for explanation! I suppose that, due to the modest power and speed from that vehicle, 8 peened rivets are sufficient!
  12. Which material is the center, cast iron? After the rivets are in, is there some welding process?
  13. I'm wondering how they did that. When I built the Mark II scale model, I went many times to the guy who had 3 or 4 Mark II. The people at Danbury had probably a method I'm not aware of it.