Roger Zimmermann

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Everything posted by Roger Zimmermann

  1. The string at the LH door was replaced; I modify also the tensioner similar to the RH side. The lower door’s molding was removed as I intend to sand and buff the paint under the character line; this lower part still has a strong orange skin.
  2. Thanks for the comments, Mike! Yes, it's a huge difference between 1:1 scale and in this case 1:12. What can be completely logical/practical on a real car may be impossible on a scale model. I believe the diameter from the drum is 2mm but the width between 2 walls is 1.2mm. Not very practical to run a rubber band 1mm width!
  3. The answer I gave to the suggestions from Spinneyhill and Matthew was far from diplomatic! Well, sometimes nasty answers are coming out...Just for the perspective: I'm attaching 2 pictures; one with the motor and the drum on which the string will roll on (sorry, I don't have a rule in inches) and the other one showing 2 or 3 pulleys which guide the string. As I wrote, it was out of question to reengineer that system, for that, I could/must redo both doors which does not makes sense.
  4. Good luck with the roof. It seems that trimacar gave you useful instructions.
  5. Thanks Steve for your comments! As a moderator/administrator, you cannot see or comment all treads! Interesting that you were yourself also a DSM! I was certainly not good in the beginning: it was the bad period where the engines stalled without reason, mostly in A bodies and V6. I had at that time many unhappy customers at the phone; it was not funny at all. Support from GM was...very remote. Fortunately, things improved a bit early nineties; probably most dissatisfied customers left. The quality of the products was still miserable in the nineties; there was some improvement early 2000. Right now, the quality is OK, but the customers are almost all gone. Only some fools are still buying GM US vehicles; there is no marketing, no organization behind the product. Sure, China is more promising and the number sold there is incredible; I have difficulties to understand why GM still has a minimalist presence in Europe; why not pull the plug once for all? In the early nineties, GM created an organization for Europe; I'm wondering if they just sent to Europe the most dumb people, because nothing good cam from that. An example? at the end of the nineties, they had a great idea: to promote and sell in quantity the Chevrolet Astro Van! A certainly nice delivery truck well adapted for the US, but certainly not a modern, efficient and stylish vehicle to be sold in great numbers in Europe. That stupid idea was presented in one staff meeting somewhere in Europe; that day, I destroyed my chance of a promotion when, as a Service guy, I asked if they were serious with such a stupid idea when all the Sales people said nothing! Nevertheless, the Astro Van never came. We could certainly speak for hours about our adventures with that company! As we had not frequent contacts in the US, the name Darwin Clark is unknown or I forgot.
  6. Thanks for the link, Nelson! I had a good luck with a computer or printer cable; from it, I could get many color coded wires, diameter 0.8mm. As the Olds completion will not require a lot, I'm set. I could not evaluate the outside dimeter from the cables in the link; anyway, I don't need any wire for the moment.
  7. People, wake up! and have a look at the picture again. Try now to put your rubber band or whatever in the same room... When I did that "design" about 40 years ago, I had wonderful examples of window systems operated with a rather rigid rubber or plastic band. If I'm right, Cadillac Sevilles had such a system in the eighties. It was my best to scale down such a system. Perfect? No way, but something larger in diameter is just an illusion. Further, my goal here is not to reengineer the model completely, but just try to give it a second life. A 100% mechanical system like in the Mark II would be 100% more reliable but, read what I wrote just before this sentence.
  8. A quick note to tell that the RH side is now ready. I will not replace the string at the LH rear quarter window, but will begin soon its replacement at the LH door. Thanks to all those who are reacting to my posts!
  9. As everybody knows, a car is not only a frame and body. There are also mechanical little things which permit the thing to move. Once I had all the parts for the engine, the block was sent to a mechanical shop to bore it, adjust new pistons (.030 oversize) and grind the main journal of the crankshaft at .010. I did myself the remaining assembly; unfortunately, I have no pictures as I had some for the same work on the de Ville and Brougham. I did also the overhaul of the transmission. The one I bought was no more good (I don't remember what was wrong) and, with 3 transmissions, I managed to do one. It was the second transmission I ever overhauled (the first one was for the de Ville some years earlier); I was absolutely not sure if my work was good. This transmission was bought in 1991; I revised it in 1996... On June 8, 1996, I could apply a color coat to the firewall. When the firewall is painted, it means that the assembly of revised or new parts is not far away!
  10. Now, body and frame are next to another. By chance, the room is wide enough! Once the frame was put on side, I could begin to clean the underbody. What an ungrateful job! Even with new pieces welded as well as the ones prepared outside, there was still a large surface not yet touched. As I have no water in that place, I was not the nicest one after a cleaning session. Fortunately, the home drive was no longer than half an hour! As I wrote earlier, there is no heater in that room. There is a minimum temperature to paint parts with a 2 components product. By chance, I could prime the underbody in October, before it was too cold. During springtime 1996, the firewall was sealed. The color coat in not far away!
  11. Probably I’m not alone to act that way: when I see difficulties or don’t know how to perform a task, I’m finding a lot of other things to do: answer emails, polish the paint, improving something which could be done later, and so on. But once, it’s over with distractions. The string replacement at the quarter window was delayed and delayed until I had to grasp the task because only when it’s done can I go further with the model. It was like I feared: not easy. I had some habit to work with that new material at the RH front door; finally, I had the courage to begin the quarter window. On paper, it’s easy: a string, do a loop with that, install the window guide and the motor. Maximum 7 screws and no space! As you can see from the pictures, the drum at the motor cannot be seen when it’s in place. The string must be rolled on the drums before the installation and, if both strings are not under tension, they unroll themselves! I had a first half success: when assembled, I saw that one string is not in its guide (a déjà vu situation!). I removed that guide support, the one which took about an afternoon to install the first time. I took it out to make a wider and deeper guide and I imagined a simple tool to help at the installation. My idea was correct; the guide was in after 20 minutes. Then one electric wire at the motor broke because I used it to manipulate the motor. I could partially take the motor out and solder the wire. The attached pictures are showing how the window is moving; the system was pictured in the 1966 Fisher body manual and I adapted it. I’m still unsure what to do with the LH quarter window. I will remove the upper trim and if I don’t see any damage at the old wire, I let it that way. I will however rode the string at the LH front door.
  12. If I had a picture with the wheels steered, I could then be sure at the pivot's location. An arrow on that picture showing the pivot location would also be OK.
  13. To avoid too much dirt on the other cars, I put some clear plastic as a separation between the working space and the storage space. It was not perfect, but good enough. When the body was repaired, it was time to remove the frame. I had plenty of opportunities to have a good look at it and, fortunately, he was intact. No rust holes, no major damages. At least something very positive. With a closed car it would have been possible to remove the frame prior to the body work for a better accessibility. However, I'm not so sure as those bodies had a notorious lack of rigidity. Anyway, on a convertible as ill as mine was, to remove the frame would have permit to body to break! Due to space limitation, I had first to push the body & frame on the left of my room (why not to the right? don't ask, I have no answer!) To separate the frame from the body, I lifted the whole unit as high as I could, removed the about 20 screws and then I began to lower the frame with a floor jack. It takes time, especially when working alone. The pictures were done in August 1995.
  14. In July 1995, the rear fenders were ready. It was not an easy task to form the lower part (the one that was eaten by the rust) with a correct flange for the wheel opening. My friend did the RH rear fender, and then he had some trouble with the police and his drinking habits. Therefore, he could not come anymore as he was without a driving license for some months. Fortunately, I could learn a lot with him and I did the repair for the LH rear fender. As everybody knows, to weld a steel piece in the middle creates a lot of heat with the mandatory distortions. These distortions had to be corrected before the rear fenders were welded on the body; otherwise, some spots could not be reached any more from behind. Those who are familiar with sheet metal know what I'm speaking about. The second picture shows the LH fender which is ready to be welded on the body. A great moment!
  15. The “new” string was installed. It’s more difficult to close the loop because the material is slipping more than cotton. After some up and downs, it seems that this is OK. I’ll let it that way for the moment; I will check if the tension is getting less and less, but I don’t think so. In between, I removed the chromes parts to both front fender and I removed as good as I could the orange peel, something I did not when the model was ready. The almost 30 years old paint is still good and the shine is nice. Not as deep as the Mark II paint, but quite acceptable. I wanted to show the smooth surface with those pictures; I did maybe 12 or 15 and kept only those 2.
  16. Heavy...Really not with a diameter of 0.2mm! Yes, that's the thread I got from Christine. Can be polyester or another chemical product. Speaking about its strength, yes it's heavy compared to what I had before!
  17. If you don’t find what you are looking for, ask the wife! And, indeed, Christine came with a string her mother had since ages. I did a resistance test by rubbing about 100 times the string over a sharp piece. Its looks not very nice now, but I still cannot break it! The sting I used before was submitted to the same test: after 10 times, I had 2 pieces. A string with Kevlar may be stronger, but what I will be using now is good enough. Anyway, thanks a lot Mike for the suggestion! Without you, I would have used my cotton based string, without thinking further.
  18. If that vehicle was run with paraffin (plus some gin or whatever), no wonder you have such a mess in the exhaust!
  19. 10 years more usage and the pipe would be full of carbon! It could also be that the vehicle was used for small drives and never went really warm.
  20. Up to now, I found resellers only. By one, who is selling per meter, I asked details like flexibility and diameter. Let see if I'm getting an answer! Fortunately, the accident at the door is marginal as the door is made with polyester resin and fiberglass. It will not be a repair like Jeff had to do! I suppose if that door would have been in metal, the damage would be more consequent.
  21. Since that window lift design was developed in the seventies, there was a problem with the string tension: either too much or there was slop. The tensioner I did then was not very helpful; time to do something more efficient: it’s a pulley on an arm, as well as a spring giving something similar with an engine’s belt tensioner. Indeed, there must be 2 tensioners but the tests I did are quite satisfactory with only one. By reaching my glasses this morning, the electrical wires were catch in the glasses and the door fell on the floor. The lower corner at the right is showing that misshapen; fortunately, the molding will hide it at the outside. I have no paint anymore; I will try to mix some to hide the inside damage. I’m now searching for a Kevlar string to avoid future breaks of the cotton string; a good idea indeed, thanks Mike!
  22. Your problems sounds familiar to me, even at another scale!
  23. Yes Mike! Most probably if I had a digital camera at that time, that report would be more detailed with all the good and not so good aspects of the body work. In retrospect, it was a great adventure!