Roger Zimmermann

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Everything posted by Roger Zimmermann

  1. Some will be accessible from the back side, some will not be. They will be dummy rivets! Anyway, the cross members are soft soldered on the rails; the rivets are more for the show!
  2. To continue with the lower part from the third cross member, I assembled temporarily the trimmed upper part on the frame. I added a flange at the cross member as it's riveted at the upper, lower and at the sides of the frame rails, 10 rivets each side!
  3. Thanks Paulie! No, the stamping is different, simpler. However, the curved area is making the reproduction more difficult; I will have to do the lower part with several parts silver soldered together.
  4. That third cross member seems easy to do, but it has also his difficulties. For once, I did a scale drawing, scale 1:6 to understand the upper stamping. When the drawing was more or less similar to the various pictures, I continue that project with the die set for the upper end stampings. A good picture from an original frame will avoid tedious explanation. Than the picture of my drawing and the die set at the left (I did only the half to simplify), the part as stamped, but not yet ready and a stamped sample. I'm still unsure how to do the lower part...
  5. It's not a secret: the Cadillac LaSalle forum, the Mark II forum (I related there the construction of the Mark II and got a lot of help from their members; I'm publishing this new construction there just for entertainment) and a scale model forum:
  6. As I wanted to let some time for the people decide if I should do now the first or the third cross member, I was not inactive: I did the small reinforcements for the rubber bumper over the rear axle and the one for the shock absorbers which are the lever type of course. From the 4 forums I'm publishing this build, only 3 people told me what they would like to see, one for the front crossmember and two for the third one. therefore, the third one is now in the work.
  7. Do you still have 6V at the battery? Maybe you had some parasite loss, like a bulb or two or a relay staying closed and so on.
  8. The 4th cross member is ready. I could do it in one piece, taking care to not forget the cutout for the rear axle, getting that way enough space between the differential and the cross member. Some remarks about that element: the large elements riveted at both ends of the cross member are the supports for the exhaust tubes. Yes, they are rigidly attached to the frame, which was probably usual at that time. The smaller brackets are the ones to attach the fuel tank. I noticed from the pictures that the brackets are indeed done with two pieces of steel. They were probably spot welded together to facilitate the installation. Was it a measure to avoid a sudden dangerous situation in case a bracket made with just one thicker piece of steel would break? What is the continuation? Well, logically I would do the third cross member, but I could do the first one which is rather complicated. Which one would you see now? I'm adding pictures from the first and from the third cross member.
  9. The small side brackets are now done. I had to do them with 2 parts assembled by silver soldering. For the moment, all is attached to the side rails with screws. When I will assemble definitively the cross members to the rails, the 5th cross member will be attached first, riveted, and then the small brackets will be added and riveted. A different way of assembly would prevent to insert rivets at 4 places. I'm going now to the 4th cross member, a simple stamped part just there to support the exhaust tubes and gas tank as I doubt it can add much stability to the frame.
  10. Probably because nobody knows! It would be interesting to know if European cars at that time had positive or negative ground...
  11. The rear tank support is now completed, riveted to the cross member. Now, I will do the small brackets connecting the lower frame rail to the cross member. A picture from Johan in the Netherland is showing it.
  12. My logical reaction would to take a good file and take the excess metal away with it! However, with your lungs the way they are, you effectively have to machine the lever. It there a medicine available to recover your lungs next to a transplantation?
  13. The fifth cross member is almost ready; it's not perfect in every aspect, but it reflects the design of the original part. Why almost ready? I have to add and riveting the central support for the gas tank. Next to that, there is one bracket at each chassis end which will get riveted to that fifth cross member. I don't have the exact dimensions for the tank bracket; it will be more or less a guess, allowing to shape the tank "between" the front and rear supports.
  14. The last cross-member is similar to the rear support for the suspension: difficult to measure, and far from easy to fabricate. When I had draw the profile with the main dimensions, I had a long time to decide which way to begin. A picture from the original element is attached to the report; it's looking so easy to do! There was already some rationalization at that time: the last cross-member had a provision to attach a spare wheel at the back, or a luggage carrier, depending of the body. It has also a single bracket in the middle to attach the fuel tank: the cross-member #4 has the two other brackets for the tank. I'm also adding a picture from my part, it's temporarily attached by screws to the frame. This part is indeed an assembly from two elements, silver soldered. It's easy to understand that the cross-member is not yet ready.
  15. The last few days, I "installed" about 40 rivets. Finally, I used the method from Bruce to shorten the rivets, doing 9 each time. 2 rivets were lost when they escape from the tweezers, not to be found! I noticed that a too long rivet is more detrimental than a shorter one. Riveting at the flange is also possible with the appropriate "emboss". The rivets have an head a bit larger than what they should; the rivet is therefore inserted from the inside of the channel; what will be mostly visible has now a correct diameter. I will now begin the fifth and last cross member It's shape is not too difficult but it will not be done in one piece as I cannot stamp it: it would require a very large tool, it makes no sense for just one part.
  16. Let the primer drying long enough before you are sanding it. Even on my scales models I sanded to early; the primer can then retract a bit.
  17. You may humidify the headliner with a spray bottle if you still have some wrinkles. By drying, the wrinkles should disappear. Nice job!
  18. When looking at that nice black tank, don't you think it was repaired or replaced recently?
  19. The supports for the rear springs and bumper are now done. These small parts are indeed an assembly by silver soldering of 8 distinct parts. The last to be added were the 3 ribs near the bearing. They were soldered once at the time and each time most of the soldering became liquid. Thank to the properties of the silver solder, nothing was shifted. Of course, soldering the various parts cannot be done with a rod but with the paste. Now, I can play with the rivets!
  20. Hi Dale! Thanks for posting again, even if it's after 8 years! You probably saw that the Mark II is indeed ready and I related some more adventures with scale models. The headline of the post is no more absolutely correct as I'm now with something different and from another time by doing a 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine.
  21. It seems that the ash trays were not used a lot, otherwise the would have a hole at the bottom! I hope that you can get the rust away from the cover and "rim".
  22. The rear spring supports were continued by adding the pre-drilled flange on which the rear bumper will be attached and the flange on the side for the last cross member. I'm now fitting the bearing for the shackles.