Jump to content

Roger Zimmermann

Members
  • Posts

    2,682
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Everything posted by Roger Zimmermann

  1. Matt, I feel your pain. That story right now is not funny. You are writing that you have difficulties to understand that in such short time the water is getting so hot, me too. I'm wondering if the whole quantity of 7.5 gallons (more than 25 liters!) is getting hot or just what is around the engine blocks? Did you measure the temperature at various spots with an infrared thermometer? I'm wondering if the water pump is really doing his job. A defective thermostat may do the same by not letting the water circulate.
  2. The fuel bowl and its retaining hardware are ready. Man, that is small! Fortunately, the fuel bowl will be protected by the frame, so no fat finger will fiddle with it when the engine is installed.
  3. Thanks Eric! as I used temporarily two screws during the time the glue got cured, this will be a very thin diaphragm!
  4. The provisions for the fuel bowl were added (tiny cylinders soft soldered) and both halves were glued together. Glued? Why? Just because I did an error: I intended at first to attach both halves with .5mm bolts; when I was ready to drill the necessary holes, I switched to 0.6mm because I had tiny screws which heads are more in line with the original screws. Unfortunately, I had only 6 or 7 such screws and during all those years, I never found equivalent screws again. I decided to revert to the first decision, but now the holes are too large. To modify the lower half with silver solder would be hazardous, therefore I will put the 0.5mm bolts as intended, but glued. I attached the pump at its location, well hidden behind the front engine support. The upper part is turned at about 45°, otherwise, the fuel bowl would interfere seriously with the frame. I will do now the fuel bowl in plexiglass. I could machine that part in brass and paint it, but I have a remaining bit of plexiglass I can use for that.
  5. The second half from the pump is ready. I also added the vapor dome to the upper part. As you can see, the upper part got a thin coat of primer; during it's handling, the paint of the edges is gone! To complete the pump, I still have to do the "glass" bowl for the fuel filter. I also have to do the provisions to attach the glass on the first part; there are often small needed details which are easily forgotten.
  6. Thanks Mike! I hope you are well. It's that not too boring the way I'm showing my "work"?
  7. Thanks Randy. As I often wrote, the body is a "maybe". It depends how fit I will be when the frame/engine is completed.
  8. When I restored my cars (Cadillacs from the fifties), I could remove most of the bolts and nuts. Some were badly rusted. To get new ones, good luck in Europe! When I had to go to the USA for GM, I bought a bunch of strange things near Detroit. The good bolts and small pieces were blasted and zinc coated by a local company. I never gave the whole lot, but did several small packages and noted the quantity and dimension of what I gave to be done. Sometimes something is lost; with my method, I knew what I had to search/replace.
  9. The lower part from the pump is ready. Have a look at the previous picture; you will see what I added. There are 14 pieces which are silver soldered together, one after the other. With that syringe for the silver solder paste, no rework is needed to remove the excess solder. This task would be impossible with a soldering rod. Now, I can begin the lower part with the flange attaching the pump to the engine. There will be less tiny parts...
  10. Thank Pat for the kind words. If you are looking at my saga, you will notice that I'm silent each year at the same period!
  11. Thanks Martin, it was fine! Indeed, I have no more vacation, just staying at another place!
  12. This week, I resumed the construction; I'm not after the fuel pump. As it will be seen, I'm trying to make as few shortcuts as possible. I'm attaching a picture showing the unfinished upper part of the pump.
  13. Jeff, another good explanation! We may have from time to time "high" humidity but not in the same sin as you have!
  14. Is that correct? I always heard that spraying a primer or paint should not be done with high humidity.
  15. Well, Randy, we are just coming back from our usual summer vacation. The scale model Cadillac will have to wait some time as I'm busy with other duties!
  16. Most of the time, the rubber seals are hard like stones and must be replaced. Those transmissions are not the easiest to work on, but are agreeable when working right. I have now 2 cars with such transmissions and one '72 Cadillac with the TH400. My dream would to adapt an Hydramatic to the '72 car...
  17. There are some salvage places in Switzerland; however, less and less because for cars not too old people prefer to replace them with new ones. Junk yards were profitable once, but no more. When I need parts, I never look in Europe, I'm searching in the US. There could be parts located in Sweden or Finland but, as I don't speak their language, I never tried this route. As their parts are anyway coming from the US, I prefer the direct way.
  18. With so many messages, you deserve it!
  19. For the moment, I cannot continue with the brake system: for that, the axles must be under the frame (or the frame above the axles); for that, I must first do the springs. I will have to buy spring steel, I don't have enough material presently. there are enough element missing at the engine to be busy for a long time. Recently, I did the breather. This part will be aluminum color at the bottom, the part above the base will be black and the cover will be chromed. To drill the necessary holes into the crankcase, I had to remove various elements. The engine will stay that way for a while as I will do now the fuel pump, located just before the breather.
  20. If the pulley has place for two belts, 2 must be used. Cadillacs from the fifties needed also two belts which must be exactly the same length, otherwise only one is working. Later compressor are maybe requiring less power and one belt is enough.
  21. Thanks for your comments prewarnut. For various reasons, I never will do nickel plating at home. I have a good relation with a local plating company; why should I play with chemical products I don't like? Sure, doing plating myself would diminish the loss risk and waiting time. but I can manage it. Many tubes levers and so on are chrome plated on that engine/chassis. I'll do the same via that company.
×
×
  • Create New...