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Roger Zimmermann

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Everything posted by Roger Zimmermann

  1. As for every part, there must be a base on which I can get the construction up. There is no difference here. I did a base and the wall which is on the exhaust/intake side. That's for the easy part, the rest will be more labor intensive. I continue with the exterior side (a picture from the real head is included) by adding the element just above the base and into which the 13 outside bolts are attaching the head to the block. As a casting an easy part, but without this possibility a bit more complicated: I did first the base without the "barrels" for the bolts. I drilled the holes at a diameter
  2. The engine blocks are ready. Finally, I soft soldered the "lid" earlier as foreseen because I will need the completed blocks to do the cylinder heads. At the side of the block, 13 studs will be used to attach the heads! On the picture, there are 2 smaller holes next to the ones figuring the cylinders. These holes are to temporarily attach the blocks to the crankcase with 2 screws each. At the back of each block, there are 5 tabs. These are needed to attach the tube hiding the spark plug wires. Now, I'm planning the heads. Of course, the internals (valves and so on) will not be reproduced;
  3. Each engine block has 6 expansion plugs; I reproduced them as good as I could. Then came the moment I have to drill the holes into the crankcase, securing partly the blocks to the crankcase. To have a consistent drilling, I did 2 supports with scrap material to have an horizontal surface for one block. For the other block I certainly will have to do two other supports because they are not reversible. Furthermore, I will need them again when I will drill the heads, blocks and crankcase. As you see, the blocks must be closed at the top. As long as drilling is required, the "cover" will not be
  4. Even if the engine blocks are rather easy to do, I spent more time as anticipated. Sometimes things are not going the way I like! By the way, when I'm hearing the name "engine block", I do see in my head something rather bulky and heavy. This is not the case with the V-12 and V-16 from that time. I'm first adding pictures from the real thing. The block is indeed the element into the pistons are moving. If you look at the second picture, you see that the cylinders are like a tube protruding from the block. Probably that strange solution was adequate for the low output and RPMs from that time;
  5. At first, I had not idea how to drill the numerous holes at the pan and into the crankcase. The easy method with a rule and tracing point is hardly applicable when so many holes must be drilled with a relative precision. For the oil pan, I put it on a wood block, attached it with 4 screws, inserted the whole into a jaw. After checking that the pan was parallel to the bank, I could move the carriage the desired distance and do the holes, this is the first picture. The oil pan was then used as a template to replicate the holes into the block. To avoid unwanted rotational movement, I had to a
  6. After adding all the tiny details to the oil pan, it's now ready. Well, not exactly: I now have to drill all the needed holes to attach it to the crankcase; there are more than 30. Then, I can do the same at the crankcase. The original studs are 3/8", at 1:12, they will be 0.8mm.
  7. When she was younger, our dog liked to ride on the back seat. With the age, she did not like to go into a car anymore. The picture was done during the GE in Germany 2008. When I'm doing my Cadillac model, our new dog is coming to help, with mixed results!
  8. The pan itself was continued by closing the front end. Before it was soldered to the assembly, I milled some slots to help positioning the cooling fins. After that, I silver soldered the fins and trimmed them. The first pictures is showing the pan and the prepared fins; the second picture is self-explanatory. Further additions will be soft soldered.
  9. The outlet tube was a piece of solid stock. I did first a small hole into it the total length, then I used various drills to get a larger hole at the open end. With an adjustable chariot, I cut the outside and inside diameter when the desired angle was set. Of course, the inside diameter at that angle is just a fraction of the total length. Then I separated the tube from the stock. I hope that my explanation is understandable!
  10. As the oil pan is attached to the transmission, I had first to continue with the transmission's flange. I had to "repair" it, by silver soldering a bit brass because I removed too much metal...It's not the first time, and not the last one! Now that the points for the lower attaching bolts have been set, I began the oil pan. The location for the starter motor is not yet set ; it will be done later when the oil pan has more details done. For the moment, I have two separate parts: the flange and the pan. Both will probably be soft soldered as such long thin stripes are very unstable when heat
  11. As I had some elements already done for the generator, I decided to continue with it before I'm going to the oil pan. A generator is a stupid round cylinder with some small details. Regarding the details, I did some: the screws to attach the pole pieces (they are fake, a word used frequently those last 4 years), the oiling funnel, also a fake, at the back cover, the small retaining plate for the bearing at the back cover, held with 3 screws. The difficulty I had was to determine the angular relation with each other. I think I'm not too bad. Another detail which cannot be overviewed: the air
  12. It's also available in the US from Dupli-color. But not Switzerland! If you can buy it in England is of no value to me, shipping aerosols by post is not allowed. Anyway, as my models are not exposed to harsh environment, I have indeed never had an adhesion problem. I just have to clean the parts very well before priming. Anyway, thanks for the comment!
  13. Since years, I'm using the Dupli-color primer. I would like to have self-etching primer, it's not available in Switzerland (or I don't know where to buy it).
  14. The last small details on the crankcase have been added: the ridge for the visual oil level; 6 inverted "T"s and 4 tiny ridges like an equal. What is the purpose of those small elements? Maybe needed at the foundry or during the machining of the crankcase. One inverted "T" is thicker than the others; it would be interesting to know the reason. On several pictures I have from a V-12 engine, those elements are also present. After a good cleaning of the crankcase, I applied a coat of primer. It will most probably be damaged during the drilling of all the needed holes but the difficult places
  15. That's an extravagant requirement; it must be a special person with all those wishes for a ...truck!
  16. Indeed, the flange for the generator should have been done much earlier when the case for the distribution was not yet attached to the block, because I could not drill the holes for the attaching bolts. I had to work backwards, finishing the spacer and generator's mounting flange. With that, I could drill approximate holes into the case for the bolts. I also understood why there is a ridge on that case: one of the attaching bolts is not inside the case; therefore the ridge was necessary. It's also a convenient place to stamp the engine number. The first picture is showing the soldered flange
  17. As somebody else said, buy the factory shop or service manual for that year. Usually, they can be found on eBay.
  18. The rear of the crankcase is finished. Of course, there are some holes do be drilled, but not before the various accessories are ready because the holes on the flanges from the accessories will be used as a template to drill the base. At the front, there is a built-in casting for the generator mounting. Here too, I'm needing the generator's flange to continue. Therefore, I have to partially begin the generator.
  19. @ keiser31: thanks for the explanation about the money! @ Pat: Don't tell it to your big chief! Compared to actual standards, that engine was probably not very rigid. The huge crankcase is a wonder of aluminum casting; anyway, I don't think there was too much oil leak because there is not a lot of pressure inside. In "our" case, the gasket is much higher than the crankshaft. The oil pan was probably tight too: it's also aluminum (same expansion and contraction rate) and there is a great number of bolts; you'll see it later.
  20. Due to various other duties, the up date is rather late. I saw rather quickly that to do the elements I wanted to add on the crankcase, I had to "close" it because those elements are like a continuation of the upper deck. It's now done; the 16 holes are just for the fun because in reality, the upper crankcase has a different aspect; a picture is included. Maybe you'll notice that I have another quarter: while removing the front seat from my '72 de Ville, I found that quarter which is different from the usual ones: it was "stamped" in 2004 for Florida. I don't know if that quarter can be us
  21. Because I choose the solution to have that subassembly inserted into a hole: easier to control the right position.
  22. A few elements were added since the last update: the "ears" for the rear engine supports and the provisions to push the colder water coming from the water pump to the LH cylinder block. There is a tube across the rear crankcase; steel tubes are attached to the flange. The LH flange was relatively easy to do; by accident, this is the side I have the most pictures. The issue with the other side: the 2 threaded holes are not vertical but at about 55° because the tube connected to the water pump has to go down. If I was satisfied with the flange from the LH side, the RH one is not the b
  23. Thanks Eric! I have the chance to have hundreds pictures from the brakes, frame engine and transmission. Probably you saw at the beginning form this project that I was in Germany to measure and take pictures from the frame & engine. All the small details were either forgotten or unnoticed; thanks to those many pictures, I can see them. Pictures are difficult to deal with because of the lens' distortion but they help a lot. Most of the time, I'm spending more time to calculate/evaluate/establish dimensions than to do the part! More than once, when something is completed, I see that there is
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