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Bias vs Radial tire costs


edhd58

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I have a 42 Ford Fordor. I a, ready to order tires and WANT to go with radials but the cost after tires, tubes, Shipping and install is going to be between $1300 and $1400. Bias will be roughly half that. It will be a once in a while driver, I am working 6 days a week every other week and 10 hour days. Can anyone justify the extra cost and what is your reasoning? 

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actually i think 700-16 is what i found. it will fit, but its still a bias tire. i am looking at all the modern tire sizes with a calculator and seeing what will fir the original rim. so far the best suggestion has been go to a tire store and tell them what i have and want and let them do the leg work, they know who they can get what from etc. 

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3 hours ago, padgett said:

No. For occasional low speed use in nice weather a bias would be fine.

It is seldom that I understand a point, or even an opinion that Mr.P is attempting to make let alone agree with him. This time I do but I have to admit I just don't know what his idea of "low speed" use is but looking at the car from the photo's I think it is a safe bet it will be under 80 MPH.

I am about to put the fourth set of bias ply tires on my 60 Impala 30 years of my ownership, and I will drive all day long on them at 65-70 MPH ( as a matter of fact over the years I have), We drove some long 10-12 hour days on the interstate going to and from various club meets. I do have to admit they do get dicey in the rain but so does everything else like the windshield wiper's first thing to pop up in my mind. Everyone seems to forget that they were sold as new cars with bias ply tires.

I can not see any reason to spend the extra money for radial tires.

By the way nice looking car!

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
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Guest Dougal Cawley

Hi

 

I think it originally fitted 600X16 crossply tyres. and i don't think i would change a 1942 car on to radials they just weren't invented then.

 

My web site offers cross ply tyres and radial alternatives http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/ try the search box on the top right

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Back in the day I used to do silly things in Jags with 6.00x16 Dunlop RS5s. Now that I know a bit more and live where frog stranglers are common, all of my cars are on radials.

 

Since I know nothing about the strength or construction of current bias tires, if you need to ask, I'd say 60 mph max and only on dry pavement.

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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

If you have ever had an old daily driver that had bias tires and stepped up to radials you will never go back.

 

I don't know about that...

 

My 1937 Buick Century had radials on it when I bought it. I switched to the correct Bias Ply tires on it. It drives fine with them. I think that quite a few people switch to radials to cover up problems with worn suspension components. They drove fine with bias ply tires when they were new and if everything is in good condition they still do. I'll stick with the original style that Buick put on it when the car was new.

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I think you will find the steering very heavy on your '42 Ford if you go with radials unless you have added power steering.  As you can see, opinions run very strong on the topic of bias ply vs radial tires here.  I prefer the style and size tire the car was delivered with on my cars.  I don't think you will be disappointed if you go with the original size bias ply tire.

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I put new radials (205/75R14) on my '59 Chevy and can't even dream of going back to bias tires.

They are Multi-Mile Matrix tires.

I've had good luck with Multi-Mile tires in the past and they didn't cost me an arm and a leg either.

They cost me $80 a pop mounted.

Take a look there >>> http://www.multimiletires.com/tires/Detail.aspx?lineid=226&application=Passenger

 

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Guest radiograveyard

I am a great believer in Radials they make a vehicle ride and handle better. BUT they are done in about five years regardless of the miles. They last a bit longer when covered from sunlight. Problem is cracking tread. I just replaced a set of 20 inch radials five years old with just over 1500 miles on them as they were unsafe due to cracks in the tread. If you are just local going to shows cruise night etc bias is the way to go cheaper and seem to be less prone to cracking. The radials are great if you like to travel distance at speed, they ride way better.handle better. run cooler,more traction on wet roads. I switched to radials on my 60 Cadillac 15 years ago thought I bought a new car WHAT A DIFFERENCE! BUT had to replace around 10 years on as two had ply separations and the car wiggeled like a dancer. Tire man said very common with old radials

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Yes there have been some "interesting" radials (anyone remember the Firestone 500 ?) but even back in the 60s, Michelin X Stop radials were great tires just not big enough for American cars (and had exciting handling qualities). Then Michelin came out with the XAS and Katy bar the door - the tire to have for SCCA Showroom Stock racing. I would not have anything else in a frog strangler an Interstate. (Do have BFGs on the Judge because 255x70R15s are hard to find). Have not experienced a separation in this century or heard of one this decade. OTOH I swapped the OEM tires on my tow car when almost half worn for Michelins because I started seeing the traction control light too often in the wet.

 

Which brings us to the current issue, a 42 Ford. Stock tires were 6.00x16s just like my Devin Jag. Then the tire of choice was a Dunlop Road Speed number 5 and was a bias tire. Today, like my Judge, the proper tire size is not easy to find (and not much more will fit on a 16x4 wheel). So the choice is really an expensive bias 6.00x16 or an even more expensive radial.

 

Cost was indicated to be an issue so another question is pertinent and again can refer back to my Judge. It came with 14x6 steel wheels without trim rings and 2 ply bias tires (not even safe in the driveway). Today it has era correct Pontiac Snowflake wheels in 15x8". These can mount enough modern tire to prevent terminal wheelspin. (I have the 14x6 Rallyes in big baggies). So we have a '42 Ford with 16x4 wheels. Does anyone know if a 15x5 will fit and clear everything ? Tires in a narrow 15 are much more common.

 

So given a choice I'll always take a radial and recommend same to others. In this specific case, more research is needed and options considered.

 

ps I have gone into greater depth that usual here because some have difficulty understanding my short forms.

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I guess opinions are what make the world go around. A few years ago I decided that I would never put radial tires on one of my collector cars again. They are too wide, too short, the whitewalls aren't the correct width and in general just look like crap on a sixties car. (In my humble opinion). And in the past on several occasions when I have decided I wanted to take one of my driver cars to a National Meet the first thing I had to do was spend a thousand bucks for a set of bias ply tires. I hardly ever drive one of my cars more than a few miles at a time so for me it's bias plies.

Edited by real61ss (see edit history)
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If the weather is that bad I take my new car, If I happen to get caught in what Mr P calls a "frog strangler" (why he just does not call it "heavy rain" like most is another thing) My windshield wiper could not keep up with the rain, so I would either slow down or get off the road and wait for the RAIN to pass

Tommy I agree the radials look like crap.

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Thanks everyone for the opinions and advise. One opinion given me was buy "newer" 15 inch rims so I can put whatever I want on the car. What i have found is newer rims aren't made the same as 42 rims and the look wont be the same. Plus I am having a heck of a time finding 4. Anyway, to make a long story short, I have decided to go Coker Classic black wall bias tires at $136 each + tubes. the savings will allow me to do a few other things. Thanks again for all the thoughts and opinions. 

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Hey , '58 : If I am not too late to the party , I'd like to chime in suggesting HIGH PRESSURE light truck , or trailer radials. I am in my 70s and have been running radials for over 50 years. Have some unusual radial adventures. But , if you are dead set , I'll save my arthritic digits. Wanna know why ? You have but to ask. It has to do with safety. All the best in any case.  -  Carl

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I have four matching 15" wheels from a '46 Continental all off the same car.They are wider, designed for 7.00X15 tires.  And a conversion to Bendix rear brakes that are a significant upgrade.

Bernie

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In your case, the bias ply make the most sense. They are the correct tires for the car and they are cheaper. By the way, correct size for your car is 6.00 X 16. There is no need to go larger.

 

If you had a hot rod and were driving 10,000 miles a year or more the radials might be worth the money but in your case they would rot off the rims before you wore them out.

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17 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

In your case, the bias ply make the most sense. They are the correct tires for the car and they are cheaper. By the way, correct size for your car is 6.00 X 16. There is no need to go larger.

 

If you had a hot rod and were driving 10,000 miles a year or more the radials might be worth the money but in your case they would rot off the rims before you wore them out.

 

I agree with that and also 61polara's correct note that if you put radials on a 1940s car with no power steering you are just asking for high steering effort at low speed.  On a 1960s era car with power steering and tubeless tires I have found radials to be a big improvement (although some are still skeptical). But for a 1940s car with tubes I would have to be convinced to go radial, Todd C

 

 

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Thanks for the input. 60FlatTop Iam assuming you are saying those items are for sale, if I had known yesterday early thou may have made a sale. I did however already order tires and tubes. Free shipping from Summit racing buying them off eBay,saved almost $100that way. They are Coker classic Blackwall bias 600x16 tires and tubes. Thanks to everyone that responded i really do appreciate it. 

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Most alignment shops today don't understand that there are different alignment specifications for radial versus bias ply tires. The toe and caster specifications are different for radial versus bias tires. If you get an alignment done, you need to make sure that you have the alignment specifications from a factory shop manual and not one with updates for radial tires.

 

When we purchased our 66 Galaxie it was a 55k mile car with radial tires. The first thing I did was put the correct bias tires on the car. It wandered all over the road with the radials but drives straight as an arrow with the bias. The front end is set to the factory shop manual specifications, not what was recorded at the alignment shop. 

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I think you made the right choice. One, on a car like yours with modest speeds and limited use, you're not really going to see much difference between the radials and the bias-plys. The bias-ply tires will look right (kudos on the blackwalls, too) and the car will handle and feel authentic. It'll also be safe with fresh tires, which is the important thing.

 

I'm not going to go into all the pros and cons of radials on old cars, but bias-plys worked then, they work just fine now. Radials are better in many ways and I'll admit to using them on my '40s cars that I drive a lot and at highway speeds, but they're not so much better that you'll regret not having them, especially for the price difference. You made the right choice. Enjoy your car!

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Thank you Matt, both for not making feel like i was an idiot for going bias, and for liking the black walls.

My wife thinks its too plain.

It'll look a little different with the new trim rings when they come in.

 

Speaking of trim. does any one know how to get epoxy primer off stainless??

I am not sure how I did it but I got some epoxy over spray on some of the stainless.

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50 minutes ago, edhd58 said:

Speaking of trim. does any one know how to get epoxy primer off stainless??

I am not sure how I did it but I got some epoxy over spray on some of the stainless.

 

Ultra-fine steel wool should take it off without hurting the shine. Or even before that, try the clay bar, which we used to use in the body shop to clean overspray off various parts. It works!

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Summit has Coker 6.00x16 blackwalls for $136 or whitewalls for $148. In your case the blackwalls would be more appropriate. Is the car done up to resemble a WW2 military vehicle, possibly Navy or Coast Guard?

 

They also have Firestone blackwalls for another $165.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/tires/tire-size/6-00-16/tire-construction/bias-ply

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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29 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Summit has Coker 6.00x16 blackwalls for $136 or whitewalls for $148. In your case the blackwalls would be more appropriate. Is the car done up to resemble a WW2 military vehicle, possibly Navy or Coast Guard?

 

They also have Firestone blackwalls for another $165.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/tires/tire-size/6-00-16/tire-construction/bias-ply

And, the good thing about Summit is thier prices are they same as Coker plus they offer free shipping. Shipping on 4 tires can amount to a tidy sum

Edited by real61ss
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Everyone, I repeat, everyone has an opinion on this subject, but I agree that radial tires do not look proper on vintage cars.  I have 6.70-15 Goodyear Super Cushion Deluxe tires on my 1956 Thunderbird, and they look period correct for the car.  And that is the issue--radial tires DO NOT look period correct.  I purchased a set of the new bias look radials from Coker Tire to use on my spare set of steel wheels, but even they cannot accurately substitute for bias ply tires.The fit and stance is off.   The wheel covers do not fit flush on the rim with the radials.  For authenticity, bias ply tires are the only way to go. 

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Buying the Summit Coker biased tires would have been my choice, well, it has been, a couple of times. You'll be happy.

 

I wouldn't recommend taking the car to an alignment shop. You will walk away wondering why you did it.

 

With a solid front axle the king pin inclination and the camber, for sure, are not going to change. And the alignment shop probably won't be prepared to fix a bent axle or spring if you have one. Toe-in can be set in your garage with a couple blocks of wood, a tape measure, and a piece of chalk. That gives you a chance to disassemble the links and get fresh grease everywhere. Disconnect each end of the tie rod and swivel the kings pins to be sure they are not too tight and don't have too much play.  I have seen king pins so tight the thrust bearing cap on the steering box broke out and the steering shaft telescoped on the worm gear.

 

Bernie

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I know I'm late to this discussion, but I have a 31 Model A Ford with 16 inch Ford wires. The bias ply tires would cause wander and sudden jerks from side to side

depending on the road surface. I bit the bullet and bought Coker's new radials built to look similar to bias tires. they were expensive, but I think they are worth every penny.  the car handles better than ever and the look is quite presentable and looks almost authentic...

 

Frank

 

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Edited by oldford (see edit history)
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