edhd58

I really like that truck. That's an incredible job you've done with it.

As a matter of fact yes. I did try to pull the thing apart and it won't budge. The more I ponder that the more you make me think I do need to pull it and get it brazed and Then I won't have this nagging doubt in my head as to the quality of oil flow.

Well, its been a while. A bunch has happened. Some has probably been my own doing. The trans had a bad growl in first gear, and the clutch has had a bad shudder, and there's the overheat thing which I never addressed yet. I pulled the motor and trans a couple weeks ago and had them torn down to see what i could find. The trans had a rough gear on the cluster gear. That gear alone was nearly 300$ new. I found a used trans close by that had excellent looking gears for $60. I called and talked to Mr VanPelt and had them send the new gaskets and seals and as soon as I can get the front seal out of the input shaft tube. I'll have all new gaskets and seals in the trans. As for the bad clutch shudder, I guess I never heard it until iI put the car all back together. There were so many noises driving around in just the body shell. I knew the engine rear main had a small leak and i attributed the shudder to oil had gotten on the clutch disc. When I got everything apart everything was discolored and there were what looked like some burnt spots on the pressure plate and flywheel. I also think some of the grease I had put on the throw out bearing may have gottten slung onto the flywheel/pressure plate. I am cleaning off ALL of that grease before it goes back together. In getting everything ready to reassembly I lightly sanded the pressure plate and flywheel. The dark spots came off pretty easily. Under a dark spot on the flywheel and one on the clutch disc is a small gouge. nothing I think to worry about, its that small. I just wonder what could have gotten in there and did that. The colors on the flywheel in the picture is my orange shirt reflection, and the grey at the bottom of the pic is the reflection of the bell housing inside edge I haven't attempted to deal with the overheat issue. I am going to reinstall every thing, and rework how the fan belt tension is controlled and start from there. There is one pic of the oil pump setup just for those that have never seen the G 226 oil pump. Its part of the front main bearing cap. Exactly like the Ford 2N and 9N tractors, Anyway, here are a few pics of what I have been up to. Now i am waiting on the clutch disc, and for me to get that front seal swapped to put it all back in.

JWL. Today I finally got around to working on the car. Got me some brake cleaner and started spraying all over the carb. Turns out you are right. there was a vacuum leak where the advance fitting connects to the carb. I thought I had tightened the fitting, but had not. Got it tight and readjusted the air/fuel mix on the carb and it runs better now than it has in a while.

I know i can not purchase any of the cars, but was wondering if maybe you would post a pic of each one here, i just love seeing all old cars

JWLawrence. Hadn't thoughtof that. I don't have the vacuum wipers so That's plugged o.k. the carb. I need to check that to make sure ours a good seal.

David i Did install the NOS radiator At the same time the rebuilt engine went in. The tranny is making a nose so in a few days motor and trans well be coming out. I'll check the radiator for junk then. MCHinson. I well look for a New pump but the G engine parts are getting harder yup come by. The only water pumps i can find so far are the old straight find ones that they say caused cavitation.

Yes Ben, it has been hot enough that by the time i could get out of still traffic it was "percolating" and had blown anti-freeze out of the radiator

MCHinson, I agree it probably did work fine new. And I dont have any idea why with all new parts it isnt working fine now. Spiineyhill, The radiator was purchased at the NSRA swap meet in Louisville. It had OLD masking tape around all the holes, and was sold a NOS. Looking inside it before I installed it, it looked NOS. The engine is a fresh rebuild with a rebuilt water pump, but a modern style thermostat not the original type. JP928, Yes it stays cool running down the road, but heats up idling setting still. I dont have any room to put one behind the radiator

I have a dilemma. My 42 Ford with a 226 G six cylinder overheats when setting in traffic. It will cool down if I put a fan in front of the radiator which tells me its an airflow problem. Has any made a fan shroud and if so can you post a picture of it? OR should i put a electric fan in front of the radiator??

is a 42 Ford Fordor with the 226 G six cylinder rare or just uncommon? just asking.

it made its first real road trip Saturday. Approximately an hour away was the NSRA Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, KY. The trip there was uneventful, the trip home was anything but that. The car has never overheated before, but did after sitting idling in traffic for 30 to 45 minutes (heat of the day leaving). It reached a little over 210 and blew coolant out of the radiator all over the motor. It has the no pressure radiator cap. This caused the engine to start misfiring as the distributor was now soaked. I got it pulled over into a store parking lot and found the fan belt loose and now soaked. To make a long story short I did finally get it back home under its own power. I now need to find out why the generator moved or why the fan belt loosened. I also need to find out why the speedometer is close to right at 55 but way off at 60 mph. It shows 60 mph at 55 but show 75 at 60 mph. If you notice it has no side mirrors, that is something I decided on the way up has to change.

how about just the engine, A 226 G series Ford 6 cylinder. Used only in 41,42 (limited production) and early 46. to the point not all parts are available now.

I also am now street legal, Wifey got the tags Saturday, bless her heart, and today I had her follow me to verify the speedometer. It's off a tad, at 60 on the car her 2013 Tundra is sowing right at 55. and I later took it out and ran it up to 70 and cruised a while at that speed, because the motor sounded fine not straining any. oil pressure HOT (190) is 30 at idle and 50+ revved (I'd guess 2500 RPM). The electric gauge is pegged but the mechanical is showing just over 50 setting in the drive way revving the engine to see the hi and lows. The trim rings on the car is the final look. I am going minimalist on the exterior. I'm just a plain kinda guy. The bumpers were tooooo far gone to think about doing anything with, plus I just don't have the extra money at the moment. Oh yeah, almost forgot , i put in new king pins bushings and both tie rod ends, not the front end is all nice and tight. It aooears the original (maybe) bushings were still in it. Maybe. And I did paint it all black before it got put back together.

Its been a while since I posted and I have made a little progress. i cant load too many pics at once soooo....... a few posts for pics. I did get a new (had the paper hang tags on the knobs - well part of the hang tags anyway) radio front installed.

Fellow, your attention to detail is awe inspiring. Mine is not. That will be one incredibly good looking and performing ride when completed. You are being meticulous in your restoration.

Grog, yep when you turn it 180 degrees it looks like the cable wont clear the frame. it does but only because it lays on the frame and between the floor. NOW, this is not the same route the 42 tube had, but thats life. The turtle was on the side of the tube not the top. Had i thought about it I would have swapped torque tubes when I swapped rear ends.

grog, it seems everything associated with this car is in code. the "turtle" is on the driveshaft tube Dave as big as I am i think a forward speedo wouldnt be too comfortable either

all is well, i didnt have to cut any holes and flipping the turtle solved the backward speedo issue

I installed a speedo cable for the first time since owning the car. its a 42 ford fordor with a 47 rear end. the speedo shows forward speed in reverse and bottoms out in forward gears. If i reverse the turtle i have to drill a hole in the frame. will reversing the turtle make the speedo work properly??

New Coker Bias , on now

Got the new Coker's on .

I recently had my 226 G overhauled. it ;lost oil pressure shortly after start up, I ended up having a machine shop machine the oil pump body to 0.015 total clearance of the internal gears and body with the paper thin gaskets. I now have at idle 30 pounds pressure and nearly 50 pounds at about 2500 rpm

OMG no I am not driving on those, the new ones actually came in today and are now on the car.