I’m considering a 1938 Cadillac Series 65 4 door convertible - your thoughts on value and any historical problem areas with these cars

[CChinn]

Fellow forum members, I looked over and test drove this 1938 Cadillac Series 65 4 door convertible today. I saw it a year ago at a local parade and is now available for sale. The owner of the restoration and maintenance shop I use for my cars gave me a heads up. He has maintained the car for the owner for nearly 10 years. It is regularly driven and maintained and always garaged. It started immediately and ran well. I got it up to cruising speed (50-55mph) easily and maintained that speed with no unusual shakes or rattles. Brakes were fine as well as shifting. We were able to raise and lower the convertible top without much difficulty, although 2 people were needed. It’s gorgeous with the top down and we had a great day to test drive it with the top down. Paint is original with minor chip spots here and there. Nothing major. No visible rust. Original banjo style steering wheel has some cracks. Front and rear seat upholstery is in good condition, but is probably not original. Owner purchased the car for $45k 10 years ago. It is registered in NC and has clean title. He spent $3k for new tires, wiring harness is new, 6v battery is new. Electric fuel pump was installed. Car always run on non-ethanol fuel. Asking price $60k. In my opinion, it’s a good solid car to be driven and enjoyed, but Not a concours condition car. Is $60k too much, just right or a steal?  I have a ‘40 Chevy, so I am familiar with driving cars from this era, but this would be a major upgrade in terms of quality and drivability. Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts/feedback 

Edited April 15 by CChinn (see edit history)

[CChinn]

more photos 

[CChinn]

and more photos 

[marcapra]

First I'm no expert on pre war car values, so all I can say is some generalities.  There was a collector on here a few years ago complaining that he wasn't getting any decent offers on his 39 Buick convertible sedan.  Some of the guys who commented said that pre-war convertible sedans were not as collectible as they once were.  But they are great for a parade I would think.  And I know that pre-50s cars have been dropping in value in recent years, so 60K sounds a little high to me.  And I think the 65 is the entry level Cadillac, so possibly worth less than the 75 model.  That's about all I know, so I might be totally wrong on this.  When I think about old car values, I say to myself, if I want to sell it in a few years, would it be an easy sale at that price?  Very hard question to answer.  

[Grimy]

That's a rare bird!  I especially like the vertical crest or peak on the trunk lid.  The 65 Series (Fisher body) was offered only in 1937 and 1938 and only in 4-door sedan, formal sedan w/division, and this quite rare convertible sedan.  The 65 is now accepted by CCCA although that was not the case for many years.  The 65 is NOT the small Cad:  60 series had 124" wb, 60S (sedan only) with its chrome framed windows had 127" wb, 65 had a 132" wb (131 in 1937), 75 (V8) and 90 (V16) shared a 141" wb.

 

In Dec 1969 I helped a friend retrieve a 45k-mile 1938 65 sedan which had been a Supreme Court car and which was sold to a Court chauffeur in 1947.  The chauffeur had passed and his widow was selling the car.  It was in a block of row houses adjacent to blocks that were burned out following the assassination of Dr. M. L. King.  We flat-towed the S65 behind my 1939 75 up Hwy 1 and through the Baltimore Tunnel to Ft Holabird where we were stationed.  Over the next 3 weeks, we carefully recommissioned that car which turned out to be a great runner.

 

As the former owner of a 1939 75 7-p sedan for 42 years, I direct your attention to the joint with 4-bolt flange where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe.  That seems to have been apart in recent times based on the relatively new bolts and nuts.  I suspect that someone has added an interior sleeve inside the flanges--not original but a good idea, BUT to avoid the characteristic warping of the flanges you need 'squish' in the gasketing--which was originally a single gasket separating the flanges.  I recommend that you acquire FOUR metallized repro gaskets and use at least three (will necessitate longer bolts) between the flanges to (1) take up space and thus reduce expansion and contraction from heating/cooling, (2) thereby support the flanges.

 

The one-year-only plastic radio speaker grille is extremely fragile, as are other early plastics, and is extremely susceptible to becoming literally deformed/melted from direct sun and hot interiors.  I suggest covering that plastic grille with a section of heavy white terry towel secured by magnets to the metal dashboard next to the windshield moldings whenever you are parked outside.  Decades ago, someone offered a reproduction made of brass but coated in plastic--and it still didn't look quite right--but I haven't seen a repro offered in years.

 

Be VERY careful with those glass taillight lenses, used only 1938-40 on 65, 75, and 90.  They are unobtanium.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Nice looking car C!  Personally the convertible sedan is one of my favorite body styles on a prewar car. 

 

While I would agree in general terms on price bear in mind he has to start somewhere and a reasonable offer might get consideration.  Stating the obvious but these things can be unpredictable from a seller's perspective.  I might politely point out the advantage of a quick sale if he is ready to sell And often your first offer is the best just like real estate. 

Edited April 15 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[Twisted Shifter]

I know this is a nit, and that these pictures are of a sedan, but shouldn't the rear bumper have guards/over riders?  Also, are the tail light housings supposed to be all chrome or partially painted?

I had a 1936 V-8 years ago and the exhaust manifolds were enameled. Were they no longer enameled by 1938?

 

[alsancle]

I like it.  Cool car.  I will only opine that values in 2014 were stronger for most "antique" cars than 2024.   I love convertible sedans,  but they line up behind roadsters, convertible coupes, 3 window coupes in the pecking order just ahead of club sedans.    Not saying don't buy it, but take your time and really learn the car.  My advice to everyone buying now is pick something you really love and will be buried in.

[8E45E]

8 hours ago, CChinn said:

 Asking price $60k. In my opinion, it’s a good solid car to be driven and enjoyed, but Not a concours condition car. Is $60k too much, just right or a steal? 

Impossible to restore one to that condition for under that amount, so it that context, its a 'steal'.   I would not attempt to talk him down on that price.

 

Craig

[TAKerry]

13 minutes ago, 8E45E said:

Impossible to restore one to that condition for under that amount, so it that context, its a 'steal'.   I would not attempt to talk him down on that price.

 

Craig

I agree that to restore this type of car to this level one could easily spend 6 figures. BUT that has no bearing on the current value. I will add I have no idea what the current value is, but just to pay what someone is asking because it cannot be restored for that number is irrelevant.  There may be a nicer car available for the 60k asking price.  I look at 'for sale' cars and think to myself (hypothetically of course) what kind of car could I buy for the same amount of money? Personally I dont think I would jump on the sale just because its being presented in front of me. That is an emotional buy which usually ends up bad.  I would spend a couple of days looking at what 60k would get me in the pre war car market. IF I found a perfect example of another year/make I would get that instead. 

This is one of those that will most likely be impossible to find a comp. I would not beat the seller up on asking price but I think I would have to negotiate a little as well. Although the car looks very nice and running and a service history is a huge plus, it is not a perfect car. Is 60k perfect car pricing? 

Im glad its a decision I dont have to make.

[8E45E]

3 minutes ago, TAKerry said:

Although the car looks very nice and running and a service history is a huge plus, it is not a perfect car. Is 60k perfect car pricing? 

One would be looking at $100K minimum for a 'perfect' prewar Cadillac convertible sedan.

 

Craig 

[edinmass]

In my humble opinion, it's priced at high end retail. Series 65 cars have little following. While nice drivers, it wouldn't be my choice for a late 30's or early 40's Caddy. Market is soft at best on the car. And also the very nice Packards from the same era are also very soft. The car supply is much larger than the buying pool. I understand the temptation of buying local, saves transportation costs and cost of inspecting the car........so there is some value there. Also a sorted and driving car has much more value than one sitting for ten years. I usually value a car like the one you are considering at .....What number would make me buy it even if I wasn't interested in it?  So my number is a quite a bit lower than the asking. 

[Walt G]

Looks like a really great car, but take heed of what is mentioned here especially the comments by Grimmy! That man knows his stuff/cars from personal experience , not 2nd hand information. Will you be driving the car on the highway? if so it should be comfortable at 50-55 mph.  We all have our own preference for body styles so that is purely your call - what body style is more valuable is in the eye of the beholder. I like cars with 4 doors , open and enclosed, had a conv. coupe and you can't take friends along with you and if it has a rumble seat then it is good for a kid to climb in and out of. the fact you have some known history and also a history with the guy who serviced the car is very very important. Good luck, I hope you get the car and wish you well.

Edited April 15 by Walt G (see edit history)

[cxgvd]

Life is too short, Just buy the Cadillac, make your best deal and have a car you can use and enjoy.  Good luck, Gary

[CChinn]

To all,  thanks for the comments. All very useful as I consider this car. There is no rush to make a decision since the seller is in no rush to sell and it has not been advertised. I am doing my due diligence and posting on this forum is part of that and considering all of the comments here have been very useful. I value all of your contributions and that is a main reason I joined AACA and follow the forum. Many points about the softening of the pre-war market have been raised in previous posts which I am aware of. Not sure the seller is aware of that. Maybe challenging to raise that if we get to a negotiation phase. Thanks again and I look forward to more input

[John Bloom]

If you like the car, and there is a number in your mind that where you'd pull the trigger (whatever that number may be), keep the relationship going with the seller.  Become friends with him, let him know you love the car.  If you feel the asking price isn't where the market is, or isn't a check you'd write for it, let him know that "gently", while still keeping a positive friendship going.  Then let some time pass......  check back in after a month.  

I find that this stuff between two individuals (vice an auction) is a little like a dance.  For nice driving classics that aren't at the top 1% of the market (think Duesenbergs, Dietrich Packard 12's, etc...) it really is a buyers market.  There is more stuff that needs to be moved on to younger buyers than there are buyers who are serious and have the cash in their pocket.  You might risk loosing the car by being "friendly and passive", but I'd bet the more likely outcome is the seller will hear criticism about his car from potential buyers who haven't given him the courtesy of going to look at it in person, lowball offers sight unseen, and in general have one unpleasant encounter after another with periods of no interest in between.  That is your opportunity to circle back to him as the one reasonable nice guy who would pay a fair price (although a little less than he hoped for) and let him come to terms with letting it go to someone he likes (or at least doesn't hate).  I have done this dance at least a dozen times successfully.  It helps that there are more sellers than buyers.  

 

If you love it, stay friendly and hold to your number and give him some time and space.  In the end, maybe even come up a couple grand from your number to make him feel like he negotiated the best he could. 

 

 

[Matt Harwood]

You are the only one who can determine if it's the "right" price. Do you love it more than any other $60,000 car you can find? That's your answer. If you are ambivalent about it, well, that's a different answer. It sounds like a good car and it's beneficial that you have access to the guy who has been maintaining it for the past 10 years. It has the 346 cubic inch V8 that's virtually indestructible and Cadillacs were still some of the best engineered and built cars of the period. Mechanical parts are plentiful, trim parts no so much, Series 65 parts in particular are unobtainium, so perhaps that is a factor in your decision. On the other hand, a rare car like that will always stand out and it's big enough to be impressive without being so massive that it's hard to handle. It should have a pretty good power-to-weight ratio, too.

 

Do you love the car? Did you stay up in bed thinking about it instead of falling asleep? Have you been browsing Cadillac catalogs and websites and finding all the information about it that you can? I think that is a good indicator.

 

But if your only concern is price and whether you're getting a deal, well, you're the only one who can decide that. I like cxgvd's answer--jump in and swim! It's just money, you can always get more. And remember that having a relationship with the previous owner can be valuable. Too many guys use up all their goodwill with me getting a good price and I'm disinclined to help them out later because they were just so difficult to work with. There are more factors in play than just dollars and cents.

 

My advice is to always follow your heart. Nothing about this hobby makes financial or logical sense, so the only thing you can do is fall in love and run with it.

 

 

[58L-Y8]

For a bit of context, both books: Cadillac: Standard of The World, The Complete Seventy-Year History by Maurice D. Hendry and 80 Years of Cadillac LaSalle by Walter M.P. McCall report production for the 1938 Cadillac Model 65 convertible sedan, Fisher Style 38-6549 at 110 built.  Of course, Cadillac and Buick shared multiple body styles across their product lines.  In this case, with the 1938 Buick Roadmaster Convertible Phaeton Model 80-C of which 350 were produced for domestic sales and 61 for export, source Seventy Years of Buick by George H. Dammann.

 

I defer to others with far greater knowledge of the current market price advisement.

[alsancle]

2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

You are the only one who can determine if it's the "right" price. Do you love it more than any other $60,000 car you can find? That's your answer. If you are ambivalent about it, well, that's a different answer. It sounds like a good car and it's beneficial that you have access to the guy who has been maintaining it for the past 10 years. It has the 346 cubic inch V8 that's virtually indestructible and Cadillacs were still some of the best engineered and built cars of the period. Mechanical parts are plentiful, trim parts no so much, Series 65 parts in particular are unobtainium, so perhaps that is a factor in your decision. On the other hand, a rare car like that will always stand out and it's big enough to be impressive without being so massive that it's hard to handle. It should have a pretty good power-to-weight ratio, too.

 

Do you love the car? Did you stay up in bed thinking about it instead of falling asleep? Have you been browsing Cadillac catalogs and websites and finding all the information about it that you can? I think that is a good indicator.

 

But if your only concern is price and whether you're getting a deal, well, you're the only one who can decide that. I like cxgvd's answer--jump in and swim! It's just money, you can always get more. And remember that having a relationship with the previous owner can be valuable. Too many guys use up all their goodwill with me getting a good price and I'm disinclined to help them out later because they were just so difficult to work with. There are more factors in play than just dollars and cents.

 

My advice is to always follow your heart. Nothing about this hobby makes financial or logical sense, so the only thing you can do is fall in love and run with it.

 

 

I think Matt makes the best point out of all of us. If you happen to have 60 K burning a hole in your pocket and want a pre-war car. You have lots and lots of choices. If this is the one you have to have, then, by all means you should buy it. Understand it will never be worth a penny more than whatever you pay. Which is true of almost everything now. But if it’s the car you love the most then buy it. if it’s not, you should look around, because there’s a lot of stuff available. 

[Grimy]

3 hours ago, alsancle said:

I think Matt makes the best point out of all of us. If you happen to have 60 K burning a hole in your pocket and want a pre-war car. You have lots and lots of choices. If this is the one you have to have, then, by all means you should buy it. Understand it will never be worth a penny more than whatever you pay. Which is true of almost everything now. But if it’s the car you love the most then buy it. if it’s not, you should look around, because there’s a lot of stuff available. 

What Matt and AJ said.  The Inflation Calculator on the internet dashes all our dreams of making money on our cars.....

 

Another strong experience-based recommendation:  add a heat sleeve to the fuel line between the pump and the carb.  I notice it has the bowl-on-top fuel pump which was not from the factory but was the only factory substitute pump beginning in 1943.  There's a (reprinted long ago, I no longer have mine) Cadillac service pamphlet explaining the reason and vapor lock and associated ills even then.  The bowl-on-top fuel pump was used through 1948 on the L-head V8s and for all replacement service.

[kar3516]

What Matt said.  But also how much value you attach to the car supposedly being driveable from day one without significant additional expenditures.  There are more exotic body styles at $60K but most are just the down payment.  $60K will buy a fantastic car if you can live with a four door sedan…

[DavidinCA]

It looks like a really nice car and I think a convertible sedan is a very cool body style.  I personally am not a fan of a black interior in a convertible since it will get hot in the sun, but if the rest is great, you can always put a towel on the seat.  If the steering wheel will bother you, it’s not at all cheap to have it recast.  

 

It sounds like a lot of work has been done and sorting one that has been sitting for a while would easily swallow a few thousand dollars, so that’s something to consider.  I don’t think the price is crazy, but I wouldn’t call it a steal either.  

 

There was a Rolls-Royce add in the 70s that started out, “the quality will remain when the price is forgotten.”  If you love it and you by some standard “overpay” by let’s say $5k for sake of argument, will you regret paying a bit more or if you miss it over that amount will you be walking around saying I should have bought it? 

[60FlatTop]

Mechanically they are great cars. You won't regret buying it but it will haunt you forever if you don't.

[Grimy]

Two other points:

 

* listen to the exhaust pipe at a slow idle, hot.  It should purr, not fart.  I looked at a farting flathead Cad once and the owner said, "That's the famous Cadillac whispering exhaust."  I replied, "It's whispering I NEED A VALVE JOB."

 

* Differential ratio/cruising speed:  I *think* this has 3.92 gears in the smaller pumpkin like 60 and 60S.  The 75 series had 4.58s and I drove mine cross country at 55-58 mph.  The 90 series (V-16) ratio was 4.31.  The 75 and 90 interchanged only with each other, no substitute available.  My of-happy-memory 75, which now lives 2 blocks away with a great friend, has had a Mitchell 26% OD added under his ownership.

[1935Packard]

10 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

Do you love the car? Did you stay up in bed thinking about it instead of falling asleep? Have you been browsing Cadillac catalogs and websites and finding all the information about it that you can? I think that is a good indicator.

 

My advice is to always follow your heart. Nothing about this hobby makes financial or logical sense, so the only thing you can do is fall in love and run with it.

 

I try not to overpay when I buy a car, as I worry it will rankle me (and interfere with the joy) if I do.  But this is golden advice. 

[Marty Roth]

Surely not identical, but certainly comparable in many ways, our 1937 Buick 80C Roadmaster Phaeton (convertible sedan) is a joy to drive. It easily holds highway speed, a does our 1941 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible coupe. Both are serious cross country drivers and extremely comfortable.

 

Follow and strongly consider much of the great advice offered in prior posts, but mostly decide if you want the enjoyment, or are more concerned about financial impact.

Follow your heart, as well as your head - but remember, these are rare, and you seem to have many positives going for you with this example.

 

If you want to get out of the old car hobby with a small fortune, 

start with a large one.

[wayne sheldon]

4 hours ago, Grimy said:

* listen to the exhaust pipe at a slow idle, hot.  It should purr, not fart.  I looked at a farting flathead Cad once and the owner said, "That's the famous Cadillac whispering exhaust."  I replied, "It's whispering I NEED A VALVE JOB."

 

A similar check point? Again, engine hot, idling slow. Use a piece of thin cardboard, not corrugated, but a lot thicker than art paper or or a cereal box, need a piece about four by six inches or slightly larger. With the engine idling, hold the piece of cardboard by the edge and across the end of the tail pipe. A clean straight round cut on the end of the pipe helps a lot, but I have had success on odd or angled cut pipes also. If the engine is healthy, and valves all working like they should, the cardboard should hold fairly steady, with the exhaust flowing smoothly and pushing the cardboard like it was floating on air. If the cardboard sort of stutters, flutters or "farts" as Grimy put it, there is a problem developing, likely valves becoming weak on the seal. If the cardboard repeatedly slaps the end of the exhaust pipe? It already has one or more failing valves.

 

That is an old mechanic's test that used to be well known, but I haven't heard of it much in recent years.

 

Back to the general question. Basically what others have already said. The cars I have usually loved the most were ones I paid a little too much for, or did a LOT of work on. I would put a bit more weight on the fact that it sounds like the car is already fairly well sorted for touring, and checked out well in the test drives.

[1935Packard]

Somewhat similar car -- albeit originally about 1/2 the price, and not a CCCA car — for comparison purposes.  (Not my car, but I saw the advertisement in Packard Club publications.)

 

Edited April 16 by 1935Packard (see edit history)

[Duck Flower]

If you really like the car, go for it ! 👍

[60FlatTop]

Tuesday is coffee day in my garage. I mentioned the Cadillac and some thoughts I had about it, quite well accepted.

 

The Cadillac is a well engineered and well built General Motors car. You have a head start right there. Considering other options of the same era there isn't much else that will be easier to make work right and maintain. First mentioned was a Chrysler. My comment was how long would it take to get the brakes right. "Hear. Hear. If ever." was the response. A Lincoln would have a 12 cylinder that would not compare well and a set of transverse buggy springs. Aesthetics would be about the only appeal for one of those.Foreign high end cars in the class would not be nearly as desirable.

 

Upscale Generous Motors cars are the ticket to satisfying ownership.

 

I don't know much about over paying for a car but I know a lot of people that do. They always tell me I overpaid for whatever I bought. Funny though, I keep mine longer and drive them more than the cars those sharp pencil guys do.

[DavidinCA]

There’s a 41 Cadillac Convertible in the For Sale, Not Mine section that looks nice for $59k, although it’s on the West Coast.  For me, this is more interesting, but the 41 will be that much more modern and it’s an automatic, whether or not you see that as a plus.  It at least provides a point of comparison on the value.

[Cadillac Fan]

I would value it similar to this 41-62 convertible sedan that Mecum just sold for $40,700.  (Dealer now asking $59k). 

 

https://www.mecum.com/lots/1110241/1941-cadillac-series-62-convertible-sedan/?aa_id=540087-0

 

 

The 38-65 is a rarer car but I don’t think that makes much difference in 2024.  
 

If you like the car, offer $40k.   It may take a few months but I bet you own the car before the fall.
 

 

 

Edited April 16 by Cadillac Fan (see edit history)

[pmhowe]

On 4/15/2024 at 8:02 PM, Grimy said:

* listen to the exhaust pipe at a slow idle, hot.  It should purr, not fart. 

Grimy, and Wayne,

 

I’m intrigued by your comments regarding the smoothness of the exhaust.  My own experience is that a rich mixture will give a less smooth idle, with a burbling sound. Adjusting the mixture of an otherwise well-tuned car always led to a nice smooth idle. Can you describe further the noise associated with bad valves?

 

(On occasion, of course, I have been accused of “having that famous Cadillac whispering exhaust” - or words to that effect - but that required an entirely different technical solution - and that’s a different story.

 

Thanks

[Grimy]

@pmhowe all Cad flathead owners-for-some-time have had to deal with that.  IIRC, the slow idle spec (in Drive if Hydramatic) is 375 rpm.  An occasional chug (or fart, if you will) is acceptable.   A constant Fart Machine sound is not, and should not provided that the engine is in good tune.  See next paragraph.  The 1937-48 Cads have hydraulic lifters with a pump-up range of 0.030 to 0.070--which is the gap for grinding valve stems for specified 0.030 to 0.070 clearance at the end of a valve job using Official Cadillac Tool J-1055.  J-1055 was reproduced 20-30 years ago but I haven't seen it advertised recently.  As my Cad mentor Glen Cole taught me, that tool is nothing more than a piece of bar stock the length of a *collapsed* lifter, with another piece welded on at 90* to serve as a handle.  Of course, the Cadillac tool's handle was knurled for a better grip but mostly, I think, for a professional appearance.  Glen used two inside micrometers as Go - NO-Go gauges:  if "x" (3.032" sounds about right, the length of a collapsed lifter), then the mics were set at (x+0.030) and (x+.070).

 

Speaking of which, one cause of hard starting and rough idle in these cars is that the distributor advance plate rides on three ball bearings which develop flat spots and wear flat spots in their channel and will not allow the distributor to fully retard at idle as it should.  Then it is too advanced for an easy restart AND gives a rough idle.  There used to be kits-- "Spark-O-Liner" I think--which was a snap-in channel for the distributor body to give a unworn surface for the advance plate to move.  I don't recall the kits coming with new ball bearings but that shouldn't be a major hurdle.

 

My first step on acquiring such a car, after an oil change, is to dose it well with MMO in the gas and drive it 100-200 miles to (hopefully) clear any sticky valve stems due to period of disuse or very light use.

 

Please tell us about your entirely different technical solution.

[motoringicons]

If you can afford it, then buy it now. After all, how long will you be dead? 

Edited April 17 by motoringicons (see edit history)

[Tph479]

44 minutes ago, motoringicons said:

If you can afford it, then buy it now. After all, how long will you be dead? 

You live everyday, you die only once…

[CChinn]

Thanks again to everyone for the great comments and suggestions. They have been very valuable in my decision to pursue the purchase of this car and make an offer to the owner. AJ, it is a car I could be buried in and it meets all of the things I am looking for: old classic car from the 30s/40s, convertible, suicide doors (4 door sedan ok, I have 2 door cars already), chrome, hood ornament, running boards, art deco era styling, banjo style steering wheel. Your valuation comments have helped with an opening offer that should not “ insult” the owner, but acknowledge the changing market for pre-WWII cars. I do want to maintain a positive relationship with the owner as we negotiate a price we can agree upon. I do like the fact that it is local which eliminates transportation costs for me, is running well and essentially already sorted. These facts do play a role in my offer number. If successful in the purchase, I will drive and enjoy the car and keep it essentially as is. Maybe enter it in the AACA DPC category. Thanks again. I will let you know the outcome 

 

 

 

 

[EThomas]

I think Matt is spot on with his thoughts. When I began considering a pre-war car, I gravitated towards Packard, Buick and Cadillac. During my research, I stumbled on an article about Walter Chrysler and the early days of the Chrysler company. Intrigued, I began to research more and became fascinated with Chrysler engineering in the late 1920's and early 1930's, especially the acquisition of Dodge Brothers and how that engineering was incorporated.

 

On a lark and prompted by a friend, I began to lightly search for early 1930's Chryslers and found my 1931 CM6. I was hooked from the first picture. I will freely admit that I looked like a silly kid the first time I saw her in real life. It really did feel like Christmas morning!

 

Throughout the journey to get her reliable, which took many turns with lots of ups and downs and was more expensive than I anticipated, I never once considered another car. It's a passion project and a hobby. Everything about her makes me smile and I still look back at her when I walk away. That's what this whole hobby is about - finding joy in the mechanical marvels made from a bygone era.

 

If that car makes you happy and your day a bit better and a little brighter, that's the car for you. From my perspective, it's as simple as that.

[60FlatTop]

On 4/16/2024 at 4:42 PM, Cadillac Fan said:

If you like the car, offer $40k.   It may take a few months but I bet you own the car before the fall.

That comment stands out to me. In this instance it is like saying $20,000 means more to me than the car. If that is the case just save the whole $60,000. You will be so much farther ahead.

My old car purchase budget, when the urge drives me is about $10,000. Every purchase has been fast and exciting. If I want it and can afford it, I have it. Even if I have to reach a little. The worst purchases, though they have been few, were the ones I made with careful research and diligent thought.  Never kept them long.

 

Back in the early 1990s I bought an older Cadillac from a farmer out west of here on the lake shore. He showed me an old Ford Model A Smith Motor Compressor he had in the barn. It was a factory built job that retained the A cowl, hood, and radiator. I liked it and bought it too. A friend of mine who was a Model A expert showed up about a month later with the Model A Club magazine. He had it folded to one page with a picture. He said "here's your compressor." And it was. Someone had taken a picture and mailed it into the club asking the value and if he should buy it or what to offer. Whatever they told him it was too late. It was another learning opportunity for me.

 

Another interesting point, I was cold contacted about selling one of my cars recently. After a discussion I agreed on a selling price. Just like letting a buyer cool, I am a seller who cooled. Maybe I should keep it. Things like that happen.

[CChinn]

60FlatTop, thanks for your input and I appreciate what you are saying. My wife will attest that if I want something, I will get it. My ‘53 Packard is a good example of that. No one said run away from this car which was important. The price range also seemed to be reasonable to this group, which also helps. Whether the final sale price is somewhere between $40-60k, I will be able to deal with it emotionally, intellectually and financially. I have a meeting tomorrow to discuss the price and I anticipate we’ll reach an agreement. However, I am much better informed and educated going into it thanks to everyone’s comments here