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How buttercup got her groove back


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Posted (edited)

Got a call from the radiator shop they boiled the radiator and he said it turned the entire tank rust colored there was so much crap in it. He called to let me know there is one microscopic hole in one of the tubes he said that in the the in the leak tank it was barely visible. He said he would call this a livable leak and it likely some chunk of something will come out of the engine and plug it up for me but even if it didn't I would never notice. He said since there is this microscopic leak it does indicate the metal is thin so he does not recommend trying to patch the leak as he feels it might cause more leaks. He then asked me if I would like proper radiator paint or if I preferred something else as some owners do and I told him to paint it with the appropriate paint that did not insulate.  He is getting ready to work on my backup radiator, hopefully it will be leak free.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Matt, not to be a horses butt, if it was that dirty I am betting boiling out did not clean it.  No way I would settle for anything less than rodding out. My 2 cents.

 

  Ben

Can't rod it.   Metal is too thin...  Just boiling it revealed a leak. These guys have been in business since 1974 and come highly recommended. The car did not overheat until after I change the head so I don't know if I stirred something up with that or not.  It has passed the pressure test and has good flow so it's going back in the car until it fails completely or I sell the car.   

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said:

 or I sell the car.   

 

 

WHAT!!! Blasphemy!!!

 

I'm not letting you give up that easy....just saying. My ass will be driving up there to slap you before you give up, social distancing not withstanding.

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Just dropping in hoping for some good news. I had unfollowed as it was getting too much like listening to someone talking about an old girl friend who I still loved. 

 

If that is the radiator that came with the car, the one with the overflow line freshly bronzed on (but not quite with the same curvature as from the factory),   it had been boiled out before I tore the car down  by a guy, now deceased, who had been in the radiator business since the 50's!  No leaks were found at that time. 

 

1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said:

or I sell the car. 

 

at this point, for sanity sake, you may want to be seriously considering that option.

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5 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

they boiled the radiator and he said it turned the entire tank rust colored there was so much crap in it.

 
dirt daubers nest most likely, you probably saw a few of them in all the parts. The barn loft harbors many. 

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3 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Will they eventually plug the radiator core? 

 

It did not on my 54.  I was concerned it may but both did not get plugged.  In fact, I used it for a slight leak in the core under the dash.

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The active ingredient: Ginger Root!

 

Those tabs were the General's recommended fix for the troublesome Cadillac HT-4100 V8s back in the 80s.  Used as directed they are safe and effective.  I add 2 or three to my classics when I change the coolant - just in case...

 

BTW, I believe these are the OEM version, as they have the same ingredients.  I have used them and the pellets are identical to the GM ones:

 

HDC-PNG1.png

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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I have used them as well. However when I had a newly installed radiator develop a seam split where the plastic side tank is bonded to the radiator, I started using them in ernest. I used all 5 with no luck, so swapped out the radiator with a new one under warranty and strained the anti freeze before using it again [it was less then 3 months old] only to have the strainer get clogged. 

 I would limit the disks per radiator to 1-2 and no more. If the leak is bigger then that, one should replace the radiator.

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Strongly recommend a stocking filter AKA pantyhose filter to catch debris from the block that will otherwise clog your boiled out radiator.  I use the calf-high  versions that women wear with slacks--cheap ones are $7 for 20 (10 pair) at Walgreens.  After 300 miles, drain off a gallon of coolant for reuse, then remove and clean stocking under a tap.  The amount of crud there will help you guesstimate the next interval for cleaning the stocking.  Replace stocking about every four years and immediately after any chemical cleaning of your cooling system.

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3 hours ago, Grimy said:

Strongly recommend a stocking filter AKA pantyhose filter to catch debris from the block that will otherwise clog your boiled out radiator.  I use the calf-high  versions that women wear with slacks--cheap ones are $7 for 20 (10 pair) at Walgreens.  After 300 miles, drain off a gallon of coolant for reuse, then remove and clean stocking under a tap.  The amount of crud there will help you guesstimate the next interval for cleaning the stocking.  Replace stocking about every four years and immediately after any chemical cleaning of your cooling system.

Thanks for the reminder

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Radiator shop called.  They boiled my spare radiator which I had never tested in a vehicle, bought off a friend that did an LS swap. He drove the car into the garage before cutting the running gear loose.  The spare radiator was very clean although it did have two mild leaks around the necks that he soldered.  Leak and flow tested good.  I now have a nice backup...any suggestions on proper storage?

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4 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Radiator shop called.  They boiled my spare radiator which I had never tested in a vehicle, bought off a friend that did an LS swap. He drove the car into the garage before cutting the running gear loose.  The spare radiator was very clean although it did have two mild leaks around the necks that he soldered.  Leak and flow tested good.  I now have a nice backup...any suggestions on proper storage?

 

painted and wrapped in thick plastic/sealed. 

 

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1 minute ago, dmfconsult said:

I'd install the "backup" radiator you have as that seems in better condition.  Plug and seal up  the one with the small leak as discussed above and store that as the backup. 

Good plan. Why set yourself up for possible failure of the small leaker?  I'm not a fan of playing the odds with overheating motors.  

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Radiator is back in, pantyhose and new cap installed.  Should the cap be painted or bare metal? Ran around the block til she warmed.  No evidence of leak or overheat. Still a mild tick. Runs a little rough at idle under load, but I've not re-tuned since the head was repaired. Reverse is working after 3 miles in fwd, and working smoother than previously.  Will run it again tomorrow and report back.  For now, a beer!

20200401_194317_HDR.thumb.jpg.3bdd6d3bd829c5e704078f77108cf2e0.jpg

 

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Timing done, idle set. Couldn't get my distributor wrenches on the hold-down, so I made my own. 

Still no overheating! Fixed the front turn signals.  That dang right socket still had some build-up. It would be beer o'clock but I have to work tonight...da*n corona virus.

20200404_103334.thumb.jpg.7dfcc44e420d8105395a64fde920b876.jpg20200404_105036_HDR.thumb.jpg.eff8fdd097cb4ad2330e1a99b0f7e3fd.jpg

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Mine is a closed-end wrench with a much longer handle...  And I had to grind it down a good bit to get it to fit under the housing...

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Hey NC,

Too bad Mr. Earl didn't throw this in with Buttercup !

Now your on your own son.

At least you get to sit in the same seat she graced once upon a time, a while back.

 

Just a trip down memory lane............

 

Mike in Colorado

 

PS; If your listening Mr. Earl, how's she doing ?

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

She's still gotta be warmed up and I have to go from park straight to reverse...

Try a qt of Lucas stop slip?  Stopped my losing prime that started after a transmission service.

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