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dmfconsult last won the day on October 30 2017

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About dmfconsult

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  1. In the 60's, cars with A/C got a full shroud while ones without got just the finger guard. I would presume your 60 Electra doesn't have A/C while the 64 Riv does?
  2. Well, this now seems confirmed as an electrical problem. I switched out the coil last night and the "new" coil reads 5.3 volts at the positive terminal, exactly the same as the old one. The major difference is now both HOT and COLD lights remain on at cold start up. The COLD light turns off once the engine warms up a bit, but the HOT light stays on, even though it's not close to HOT. Once the car comes off choke, the idle is a bit rougher than usual (likely a drop of about 50-100 rpm), but it stays running. Given the COLD light works, I don't think the sensor is bad, so I'm left to checking the wiring to see if it's grounded somewhere or perhaps something is going on with the ignition switch. Or as @KongaMan suggests, is something going on with the voltage regulator? According to the manual, the car has to be at operating temperature and running to check the VR, so I haven't done that yet as I've been worried about overheating, but I do have a spare VR that was working when pulled (I changed to a Delco Remy one), so I could try that before digging any further. The ignition switch I'll check as I could have jostled something when removing the ducts and distributor box when changing out the heater core. Electrical is not my thing, so I'm going to get over my head quickly! Cheers,
  3. I will check the regulator as well, but the HOT light replicated itself in the garage on the weekend and the idle didn't change at all, so not sure what caused the running rough symptom, but it hasn't recurred so far. Could the lowish voltage at the coil be reflective of the VR? If the new coil puts out a similar voltage reading, I'd be looking for other causes. I'm going to proceed with the thermostat now, just because I think a 180 degree one is he way to go and repair the wiring on the temp sensor. I've also looked into the oil pressure sender and the insulation on that wire is pretty crispy too, so looks like I have a bit more wiring repair to work through. Any more problems and I'll have to move this topic to the Me and My Buick section! I appreciate all the help guys, I really do! I work long hours in the week and weekends are usually busy with work around the house and family obligations, which doesn't leave me a lot of time to play with the cars, so bear with me as I try and get through this ever lengthening list. Cheers,
  4. Hey, that's the easy part! Even I can do that...
  5. Thanks guys. I should clarify, it was 4.9 volts pole to pole, but 5.3 volts positive side to a good ground. I do have a new coil in the parts cache so will switch them out and see if I notice any difference (once I can actually go for a drive of any length). I also noticed my oil light is not working now either. I think that is a byproduct of the tranny work so I’ll trace that as I think it’s wiring related as well. I think I’ll switch over to gauges soon 🤔 After many years of trouble free service, the Electra is really testing me the last few years!!
  6. Is there any thread sealant required for the sensor?
  7. Thanks everyone. Haven’t had much of an opportunity to do to much today as the honey do list was long. I have got both hot and cold lights on with ignition to ON. Have 4.9 volts at the coil with ignition ON but engine not running. Vacuum hose to brake booster is still in good shape, no cracks. I think i will repair the wiring and replace sensor and t stat. I always felt the car ran too hot anyway so I think a 180 T stat would be a good change. I’ll also inspect the wiring to the ignition switch just to confirm I didn’t pull something when changing out the heater core. Thanks for the advice, I’ll let you know how it goes once I get the parts.
  8. Thanks very much for the replies. Here’s some more info. Points and condensor look fine to me although I haven’t replaced them in years (this car doesn’t see a lot of miles). I do have a brand new coil that I think I will drop in but I’ll check the voltage on the current one first. I don’t think the hot light has ever come on when cranking, but the cold light has and does. I’m hoping it’s not an ignition switch but the chassis service manual also indicates that as a potential issue. I may also just replace the points and condensor anyway and keep the current ones as spares. the vacuum hose to the booster was replaced several years ago. It’s now quite hard but I don’t think it’s cracked as I looked it over pretty carefully yesterday but I’ll replace that given how hard it is. I am getting heat John, first thing I checked after replacing the core, but I guess it’s still possible there is a air pocket. I’ll run the system without the cap for a bit to try and bleed any air off. The vacuum modulator was changed out with the tranny rebuild but I’ll look at that when I can get the car running long enough to try and replicate that issue. The wires going into the sensor are a bit crusty And the insulation looks cracked right at the point the wires enter the connector. Not sure what I can do about that, but I’ll carefully depin the wires and see if I cover any exposed wire. A new two pole sensor is available from rock auto so I might pick one up. I’ll go through these step by step and see if there is any change.
  9. Looking for some advice before I start changing parts. I ran the Electra for a short drive a few days ago and while out, I tested the brakes with a hard stop on a quiet road. The car started to run rough (which sometimes happens) but it wouldn’t smooth out at idle. Driving was fine just wouldn’t idle well. A few blocks later the Hot light came on. The problem is, it wasn’t hot. The top radiator hose was hot, as was that side of the radiator, while the outlet side of the rad was cooler. My infrared thermometer said about 185* at the T Stat housing. After seeing that I limped the car home but it wouldn’t stay running unless I popped it into neutral when coming to a stop and increasing the rpms. I’ve gone through a few things today and everything seems in order. Dwell/Timing is set correctly, the temp sensor seems to work as it reads cold and goes off when it should. After a cold start today the car settled down to a smooth idle at about 650 rpm and it didn’t replicate the rough idle. Hot light came on again after a bit and the highest reading I could get on the infrared thermometer is 203* (I think the stock 195 T Stat is in there) and upper rad hose is hot, indicating T Stat is open. A few items I’ve done recently: I just replaced the Heater Core and hoses. Last July the transmission was rebuilt. There has been what feels like an intermittent “slip” that I thought was transmission related but I could never replicate it for the shop. Because it’s not consistent it might be related to something else (I’ve read coil or condensor failing could cause a slip symptom). The rad has been recored several years ago and the water pump is a few years old. I put a new fan clutch on a couple of years ago. Coolant is standard 50/50 split. The car has never acted like this. Could the sensor be malfunctioning? I’m also thinking the T Stat may only be partially opening so I may replace it with a 180* one. The Hot light is supposed to come on at 243* and I don’t get any readings close that. Any other ideas? I would certainly appreciate it!
  10. Finally got the Electra out of the garage this week after completing the Heater Core replacement, with some other jobs "while I was there", and getting the Chevelle out of the way. Mileage start is an even 77,770 miles. Unfortunately, I only got 3 miles before the car started idling very roughly and the HOT light coming on... according to my infrared thermometer, the car wasn't hot at all, running about 185* . Limped it back to the garage and will investigate more fully this weekend. if I can't find the issue, look for new thread in the post war - technical forum asking for help!
  11. I wanted to wrap up this thread with some good info. As I mentioned, this car was basically "gifted" to me from a family friend who had to get it out of his garage as he was moving. That was in February so fast forward to recently and I had the car running and driving and barely stopping (fluids need to be flushed and likely a new master cylinder required). While I was busy considering what to do with it, I would from time to time mention it to colleagues during meetings as "something I was up to on the weekend". One of those fellows contacted me separately about the car and that he was looking for a project to complete after retirement. Long story short, he and I struck a deal for the car and it is now gone out of my way. I had looked at some price guides that pointed to $14-$16K for a car in better condition. As I work with this individual, we were both interested in coming to a fair price without negotiating. Bottom line was a $8000 sale was one of those times where we both said the number we were thinking and it was exactly the same. It still boggles my mind these cars in this condition have that kind of market value, but I guess these early 70's Chevelle 2-drs are still popular. It is a very peppy car and I had it running quite well so a little bittersweet seeing it go. The fellow who "gifted" the car to me will get a nice check (minus what I had to spend to get it running) and a little memento I put together for him based on what I found in the car and where he bought it originally. Thanks for advice on value!
  12. I believe this is a members car and I've always loved this color combination, it must be very striking in person. These cars are great cruisers!
  13. That would be one helluva nice trip John! You could cut up through the Canadian Rockies... Banff, lake Louise etc!
  14. That's great news for those of us in the Pacific NW. Looking forward to driving to this one!