Fr. Buick

An arcing machine is a grinding device that measures the dia of the drum and grinds down the shoes slightly to match that dia. so that you get a more complete contact of shoe to drum. Try a truck repair shop. To confirm good contact, remove the shoes and set them against the drum. More gap equals less brake effectiveness. I helped a budy recently on an early Chrysler with 14 inch drums, where all shoe contact was at the ends of the shoe, none in the middle, so the shoe material installed by a prior owner was too thick. He ground it down by hand, and got much better brakes. You could use machining blue on the drum and rub the shoe against it to help get a more even contact pattern.

Got it, thanks. But what's with "Old Vienna," a paint color?

Anybody know the history on this one? Perhaps a semi-custom for some hotel, it looks like, but I can't quite make out the last two lines of the sign.

Shoes installed correctly? Look at your service manual, it will picture how to place the longer and shorter shoe.

Is that dome light correct?

Hey, out of my range, but wow, what a nice survivor!! I see the auction is ending soon, but hoping to go see the car Monday if they will let me, just to get some pics.... If anyone local is buying it and reads this, send me a PM, I would love to chat about parts and such you may need... at least for correct valve covers. There is one draw-back about driving with the top down, though, it makes it hard to keep a cigar lit.

If anyone needs a look-see, I would be willing to go...

Nice project! Some bird sure liked your hood ornament...

JB Weld to fix that?

I would use that drain plug hole on the back of the block for some strong blasts of air and water, before the Evaporust. Maybe remove a freeze plug back there to at least let the worst crud escape, as back there is where the crud will be the worst. Run a filter for a while when it is back together to catch anything else that got "disturbed..." and still floating through the system Love to watch your projects, BTW!

I would go with the 50, if you want to try that way.

I'm talking about an old engine, never been rebuilt, with crud in the coolant. I like the tefba because you don't have to drain anything to service it. Set it up high on the top hose, so there is nothing to drain, no hose to disconnect, nothing to undo except the screw-cap, and it is as permanent as you want it to be. Compared to finding good radiator work in my neck of the woods, the cost is not so painful. And in my line of work, if I had panty-hose laying around, I would not be admitting it publicly....

A Tefba filter is expensive, but super handy. Put a stack of lifesaver sized magnets on the stem inside for added effectiveness, and clean it out a few times early on, then at every oil change.

Take the arms off their shaft, and reinstall in the position you want.

I may have some. I will look if still interested...