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Fr. Buick

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Fr. Buick last won the day on December 4 2015

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    Newport Beach, California

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  1. I should have your parts. Let me confirm tomorrow...
  2. John put this in the Buick Club section, and you will get a better response...
  3. With all the grease obscuring things, I would only hazard a guess - They look like spinner retainers for the Buick KH wire wheels. I'll send you my address so you can mail me my prize...
  4. I wonder if your 55 didn't have the switch-pitch working properly, where it would go from high to low stall depending on where your foot is in the gas pedal. A 53 will be a bit slower than a properly running 55 because it has no switch-pitch feature. I have driven 54s all my life, a Super and a Special, with very similar trans to the 53, and they get up and move with the traffic, though with a little more patience. Beware of using the low range too much. It was not designed for regular use like in a TH350. I only use it on a hill, or on rare occasion to jump ahead at a light, or slow stop-and-go on the freeway, or maneuvering in a parking lot. And when shifting up into Drive, do so with your foot off the gas. Your torque converter will thank you.
  5. I don't know about aluminum drums on the rear, but you will get bigger brakes if you swap stock assemblies from a Century, Super or Roadmaster. I did do aluminum 45-fin drums on the front of my 54 Super. I used stock Roadmaster backing plate and shoes, and my stock hubs and bearings easily worked with the newer drums. I only had to widen the holes slightly for wheel bolts. Also I had to grind about 1/8th off the backing plate outer edges, and shimmed the plates to the suspension a bit to move them into the drum tighter. Otherwise the shoes developed a ridge showing abnormal wear. You will also need longer wheel bolts to compensate for the thickness of the aluminum drums. It was a fun project, and better brakes are always a plus.
  6. I see you are in south Orange County, so two ideas: One, join the local OC chapter of the Buick Club, we are a fun bunch, and sometimes some good knowledge and parts in the group. The other is Desert Valley Auto Parts in Phoenix area. Last I was there, they had a 53 Special, freshly arrived. They are not cheap for prices, but you can be there and back in a day - a long one, granted - and bring it home safely yourself... Oh, and one more, Lamar Wilkins has a small private yard in Lancaster area. Private message me if you would like his number. And as said before, it may be simpler to match your engine - a standard versus Dynaflow. I don't think they can easily interchange...
  7. I did similar when driving my 54 from SoCal to Portland for that show. But I left the Starter in abox with a friend, ready to be mailed just in case. Oh, and I included a can of R-12 in case the AC needed it, and a small test light and fuses. I needed one fuse for failed turn signals at a gas station stop...
  8. Hey, Fred, if nobody has spoken up, I'll take it! Bring it to the Holiday Party at my place on the 29th, and I can pay you there...
  9. Be sure the trans is from a Century, or you will have a longer rear housing on the trans that won't fit in your car. A Super or Roadmaster will be too long.
  10. Chriss is right. Don't worry about the sliding from side to side. Try twisting the two halves against each other. If there is no play, you should be good.
  11. Welcome, and a very cool car! Don't dive in too deep. Get her mechanically sound so you can enjoy her as she sits. Start collecting parts you need. Take some auto-body, paint and welding classes, get to know the locals in this great hobby. Do some sections of body, and try not to disable the car for a long time - which leads to frustration and an abandoned project. Have you joined the Buick Club? There should be some local chapter in your area. This site has a LOT of 55 guys willing to help.
  12. The whole mirror assembly is reproduced, and rather nicely. Check out Bob's Automobilia. Just be sure you buy the one for Series 50/70, Super/Roadmaster.
  13. Yes, you are correct. It is a solid shaft from the steering wheel to the worm gear in the housing. You can remove the gear and shaft out of the column without disassembling the entire column, but it is work... Disconnect all linkage and wiring on the column, disconnect the steering wheel. Undo the column at the dash, and the gear at the frame and column. Free up the front seat and slide it back. Free up the insulation at the firewall, inner and outer. Everything tilts down inside the car to allow the gear to tilt up and out of the engine bay.
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