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Buickborn

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About Buickborn

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  • Birthday 10/12/1946

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  1. Native -- Good on you for taking this Buick on. Seems that not many folks are willing take the trouble anymore to save a meritorious car in need of a friend. Best of luck to you!!!
  2. This is a phenomenal car -- especially at the price. What is the apparatus protruding through the floor on the passenger side? On a car this correct, it's surprising to see the original 3EE battery replaced with a . . . 29F (?). On my screen, the engine appears to have been painted in '53 straight-eight aqua instead of the green used for the V8s (is it even humanly possible to restore a car without such minor errors?).
  3. Some of the major red flags in ferreting out scam ads include odd phrases, grammar, and/or syntax that suggest a non-native user of English posting from overseas. If the phrase "no rust never no rust" and the repeated use of the school-British term "motorcar" is not clue enough, then I'm hard put to imagine what would be.
  4. FWIW . . . Bob's Automobilia sells stainless repro steering-wheel-center controls (quite nicely finished) for '29 and '30 Buicks, which used three levers. Perhaps one or two of these could be adapted into the similar-appearing two-lever layout used in the '31s -- ??
  5. Hey, Hans -- I think you're leaving something out in characterizing that '48 as a better buy than your '49s: that is, the '49 Supers and Roadmasters are considerably more desirable than their immediate predecessors. Not only are they better looking, but they represent something of a milestone in the transition from leftover-pre-war to true postwar design. Besides, ever since that stupid movie was released in 1988, the '49 Roadmaster "Rain Man" convertible has maintained an iconic status that few other designs of any vintage have matched. And decent-or-better ones are invariabl
  6. Old Tank -- thanks for the lead to a rebuilder. That is very encouraging!
  7. Thanks, Guys -- more hamfisted damage averted . . . maybe.
  8. Another puzzle, Guys: it appears that the antenna nut above the fender calls for a special tool for unscrewing it.. It is tempting -- but far too scary for a confirmed chicken-heart like me -- to use a padded pair of Vise-Grips for this operation. Any suggestions for a safer and less knuckleheaded approach? Thanks!
  9. Barney -- Greatly appreciate your excellent, clear photos! Just a question about the soldering . . . I don't recall solder (due presumably to its softness) previously being specified for anything that had to bear a physical strain or load. Is solder alone strong enough to withstand the cable's tendency to pull out of the ferrule? If not, should the ferrule perhaps be crimped or swaged? Would a modern adhesive such as epoxy perhaps be more appropriate for resisting tension than solder? One more question, if I may: Can solder be expected to adhere to stainless as well as to ordi
  10. Barney -- Profuse thanks for your very clear photos and explanations. I was having a heckuva time trying to visualize the layout of the components in these units. I suspect that the gears in my unit are OK, because operation sounds normal, whereas I'd think failed gears would affect the sound of the motor (???). In any case, my biggest challenge so far is in properly accessing the unit, particularly in the sense that positioning my hand in the tight space above it blocks my view of it. Thank you again.
  11. Once again, Guys, thanks for all the helpful info! Fr. Buick, this is the '54 76R for which I bought a first-class black steering wheel from you some years ago. So your current guidance will serve as your second, thoroughly appreciated, contribution to the well-being of this very sharp car.
  12. Well, articbuicks, I hope you'll consider that I did frame my post in the form of questions. Thank you for providing some fairly revealing answers.
  13. Iancemb & Pontiac53: Thank you very kindly for your insights, which I truly appreciate. At least now I'm confident that I won't have to liberate my imprisoned 4-holer by means of a tubing cutter!!!
  14. A few days ago, in my garage, I was proudly showing off the power antenna operation in my '54 76R when the thing surprised me by failing to climb to its full height even though the motor continued to operate. Then I found that it would not retract either. In manipulating the antenna by hand, I find that I can manually extend it to its full height, but I cannot lower it below the nearly-full height it had achieved when it quit. This is a pressing problem because the antenna at its current height is too tall to clear my old-fashioned swing-up garage door. Further, I'm thoroughly f
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