Smartin

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Smartin last won the day on January 15 2019

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About Smartin

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    AntiqueAutomotiveService.com
  • Birthday 07/09/1981

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    http://www.antiqueautomotiveservice.com

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    Male
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    Foristell, MO

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    Buick Nut

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  1. The issue with what appears to be all NOS fenders I have come across, is that the tops of the fenders are welded incorrectly to the inner structure. There is a secret to being able to tell if one is like this without ever putting it on a car. The inner lip of the fender at the top, inside the engine compartment, is a different measurement than an original one. You can usually get your finger tips inside this gap on originals...but cannot with the NOS ones. I'll shoot a couple pics when I get a hold of the originals. For now, the wet blocking is done on the body shell, doors, and trunk lid. Tomorrow, I'll get the body off the rotisserie and back on its 4x4 spanner dealies. I can (hopefully) then lower the body back on the chassis. I am hopeful that I don't need any extra hands for this.
  2. 2k surfacer is on...and I did a final 2 coats of black epoxy on the dash, firewall, floors, and undercarriage. Body schutz sprayed on the rear wheel wells and outer trunk drops like factory.
  3. High build is finished...ran out of time to spray the 2K tonight...will do it tomorrow morning. The hood should be an easy prep...it literally came off a completed car with great paint. The front fenders are an issue. They are NOS...which means there was a good chance they are the type that have the wrong top arch, and don’t line up with the hood........and they are definitely that way. The passenger side is 1/2” too low in the center when lined up with the front and rear of the hood. So, we are going to use some good originals. They should be here in the next couple weeks. In the meantime, I will prep the hood and prep the rest of the body for paint. I’m going to drop the body back on the chassis and install the doors before paint. I’ll also assemble the front sheet metal before paint, to make sure it all fits. I’ll have the fenders, hood, and trunk lid off the car to paint.
  4. No dice on finishing the ceiling. They both have day jobs at the power company as linemen...and the weather hasn’t been great lately. Looks like the end of the week if this next weather event isn’t too bad. I added a little thing yesterday 🤓
  5. Thanks Steve...I would have loved to work on your 49!
  6. This type of primer is thinner than filler, unless it is loaded up with 50 coats. Typically I will spray two coats at a time, and nearly sand it all off as I block the panel. This is the step that allows me to get a panel laser straight. In the past, I would not take this time to block with polyester, and I look back at some old jobs ...and it shows. The low spots that are filled with poly are typically so fine that you can’t feel them with your hand.
  7. The guys made it about 2/3 through the ceiling today. They should be back tomorrow after work.
  8. It doesn't get easier, but efficiency goes up as I get more comfortable with this stuff. I think I'm at the last polyester primer block session. I have everything knocked down with 80 grit, and made some adjustments to a few spots on the body...then shot those again with polyester. So the body will have to wait a couple more days to spot block with 80. I started blocking the doors and trunk lid with 180 grit when I finished with 80. Each round of blocking gets guide coat (as seen on the far door and quarter panel). I am using the 3M powder as the guide coat. It's black, so it shows up in all the low spots and sanding scratches really clearly. Once the 180 is done, I will move to 220. I think I'll be ready for 2K surfacer at that point. Still have to start on the fenders and hood before I can think about color. Still shooting for end of February for that. It is so cramped in here....ugh
  9. Thanks...I appreciate your confidence in my abilities! I could probably do it...not sure I would ever be happy with it though. I have several friends in the construction industry and have pulled many strings so far to get where I am at this point. I think I will for sure have my guy do the floor...might pour the drive myself.
  10. It isn't really a kit...mostly a design-build job. I stated how big I wanted it, and he built it to that size. The trusses were ordered from a company that specializes in building them, same with the poles. They are laminated...basically three 2x6's mashed together. The lower parts that are close to the ground are treated. Everything else is cut and built on site. I used adobe white standard finish steel for the light color, and went with a bronze/really dark something with a hammered finish on the lower color. Roof is the same color in standard finish. The hammered finish is really durable and is very scratch resistant. Insulation-wise, I have a guy coming tomorrow to price the job. I stated I would like to see closed cell foam, but I don't know that I can swing that $ at this point yet. I will find out. I hear advice all the time about what I should do the first time around regarding finishes and do-this do-that, but it all comes down to how much I can afford at a given time. I am doing my best to get this building done at a reasonable pace without "cutting corners" per se. Once concrete is down, I will move my operation to this building while I continue to improve the place.
  11. That's about right, Barney. Also that price includes about 6" of rock inside to bring it up to 4" below finish floor. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ No foundation here...basically a floating floor. Frost wall at the man door. Here are a couple in-progress pics...an one with the garage door.
  12. Poles are set in quickcrete 42" deep, and sitting on concrete pucks at the bottom of the hole. I've neglected updating this thread...building is up. I have it mostly wired, with the exception of some big stuff that I'm not sure will be located. I'm getting a bid on closed cell insulation on Monday...I have a feeling I'll be shocked, but we will find out. Also Monday, the ceiling is going up. It is corrugated steel like the walls, but bright white. Lighting will be six 4' high bay lights spaced evenly...wired in 2 zones so I only have to run one side if needed. 30,000 lumens each. Should do the trick. I'll wait for wall covering once insulation and concrete floor are poured. According to the electric company, I was on the hook for my own wiring and conduit for the electric service from the pole to the building...about 160'. $1k later, I have power. Lots of nickel dime stuff has really inflated the cost on this project. I started this job shooting from the hip...and I'll end it doing so.🤣 We built shutters for the windows to help the aesthetics of the exterior. Also added an old style barn light at the peak above the garage door. The garage door is from Menards and is R18.4 insulation value...biggest I could find, and cheapest, really. I've been taking advantage of Menards' 11% off sales a LOT. Still getting numbers for concrete...so far it's $13.5k for the floor by itself. I'm still toying with the idea of extending the driveway to the door if $ permits this Spring.
  13. You can use a mity vac to pull a vacuum on the advance unit to see if it physically moves. This is also a good way to see if it holds vacuum, or if it bleeds off quickly.
  14. Aluminized: http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=61_31_98&products_id=47 Stainless: http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=61_31_98&products_id=2839