NC-car-guy

How buttercup got her groove back

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Little more progress.  Exhaust is all together too..  there's going to be a lot of detail work at the end getting my greasy fingerprints off everything...

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Lookin' good -- and boy, those front bumper brackets are HUGE! 

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On 7/25/2019 at 1:45 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Im going to loosen the torque ball bolts tonight to gain a little more flex I hope.

Thin gasket. I will say the torque ball on the 3 speed stopped leaking at the ball seal after removing all gaskets. Used permatex only.  Vulcanized torque ball seal is a genius idea. 

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On 6/24/2019 at 12:35 AM, MrEarl said:

6 Power steering pump - Black * The correct decal wording for the top of the pump is FILL TO LEVEL WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID TYPE

 

Can't recall, did the previous owner (ie previous to me) paint that too or is it possibly able to be used?  I might have an old original one that could suffice. There is no source for accurate repros of these that I know, however if memory serves me correctly, it was @tompett in Norway that had some made a few years back and may could help.  It would be worth a shot. 

 

Also when you get ready for the little red 12V stickers that go on all the electrical components incl horns, relays etc let me know as I do have a few of them. These were used on I know '54's and I suspect '53 V8's as "warning stickers" that the systems and components were now 12 volt instead of the previous years 6. 

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On 7/25/2019 at 1:45 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Im going to loosen the torque ball bolts tonight to gain a little more flex I hope.

 

Check the date on the transmission reseal invoice that was in the glove compartment. If it was done before begin production of the vulcanized type ball seal there may be shims creating the tightness? Just a thought. I had always planned on just replacing the torqueball when I had the engine and tranny pulled.

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3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

Can't recall, did the previous owner (ie previous to me) paint that too or is it possibly able to be used?  I might have an old original one that could suffice. There is no source for accurate repros of these that I know, however if memory serves me correctly, it was @tompett in Norway that had some made a few years back and may could help.  It would be worth a shot. 

 

Also when you get ready for the little red 12V stickers that go on all the electrical components incl horns, relays etc let me know as I do have a few of them. These were used on I know '54's and I suspect '53 V8's as "warning stickers" that the systems and components were now 12 volt instead of the previous years 6. 

The pump was slipped up bad with brushed paint. I had to strip it all the way down prime it and then paint it the only sticker I can find for that lid at any of the old Buick parts vendors is the one that I have put on there now saying fill with hydraulic fluid.  All the relays have the little red 12 volt stickers you even had one in a bag loose with a note saying which relay it went on so I glued it back on. I loosen the torque ball bolts a little bit and was able to move it enough to get the driveshaft lined up and the torque tube reinstalled. No need to replace the truck ball don't fix it if it ain't broke, hell it's brand new.

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F*!#$! I hate hate hate body work.  I cant get $#!! To line up....  I'm trying to use what witness marks are left but I swear some of the panels have changed shape....

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4 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

F*!#$! I hate hate hate body work.  I cant get $#!! To line up....  I'm trying to use what witness marks are left but I swear some of the panels have changed shape....

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My body man once told me that to align panels the car has to rest on its tires!

maybe that will help

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9 hours ago, old-tank said:

Walk away and call the guy who took it apart.😁

I walked away for the evening.  Had a beer or two...  Back at it tomorrow or Wednesday.

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On 7/26/2019 at 8:00 PM, NC-car-guy said:

 

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Found this after digging in the parts room... What do you think...the redone with the only currently available logo (incorrect though, says fill with hydraulic fluid) or this rough one with the remains of an original logo.

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Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)

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I say let the new engine paint catch up to the lid. 

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1 minute ago, JohnD1956 said:

No one will see either one while you're driving it.  

 

 

Using fuzzy math, A quick 13,000 miles should have her lookin about right 

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Just when I was ready to burn the place down, I fired up the caddy and terrorized the neighborhood. Sound ON:

 

 

Came back with beer, drank 1 or 3 and some of the ikea artwork that came with the kit made better sense and I got it this far....

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Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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October 7th y'all....  I can't wait.

Buttercup is headed to a restoration shop.  They will finish her up so I can enjoy. Then ill just have to do the brake master cylinder.

 Before anyone starts hemming about my wallet or checkbook....  I've sold off a lot of my goodies this year and have set all the money aside.  

I'm tired of working all day to come home and work on more stuff,  using every weekend to work on stuff.... From now in I'll have less stuff and let someone else do the hard work so I can enjoy the things I've worked so hard for. 😀

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13 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

What will you have the shop do for you?

Finish the body, make sure it's all lined up (just to 1954 standards) and test and reinstall the radiator.  We've also talked about a repaint, after her 2021 archival show though.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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20 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

We've also talked about a repaint, after her 2021 archival show though.

I know it's your car, but as nice and original as the car looks, I'd strongly suggest not repainting it if there is no major damage...

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1 minute ago, lancemb said:

I know it's your car, but as nice and original as the car looks, I'd strongly suggest not repainting it if there is no major damage...

You'd have to see her up-close..

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