NC-car-guy Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 On 11/30/2019 at 6:43 PM, NC-car-guy said: Stupid auto correct. Flow kooler. SO after talking to Matt Martin at centerville, I'm going to leave the flow kooler alone. He advised that it's more gimmick than real world benefit and that the stock pump will cool fine at highway speeds if all the water passages are clear (which I have verified). 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 New water pump came in from Centerville yesterday I'm going to try and get it on this weekend. I have a bad feeling I may need to let this car go though. There's now 4 to $5,000 worth of work to remediate all the water under my house due to poorly installed cinder block skirting and grade of the lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 Sorry to hear that Matt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 1 minute ago, JohnD1956 said: Sorry to hear that Matt! Thanks. Im just over-extended. I need to wait until I'm a little more stable to worry about all this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) On 11/24/2019 at 6:01 PM, old-tank said: Put the car on jack stands; go over the adjustment procedure in the service manual again and the trouble shooting portion; if no joy disconnect the linkage at the transmission and move it through the range as a test (don' go back to the Park position with the wheels turning.) No joy.... I removed the linkage and pushed the transmission lever all the way back....wheels still turn forward! Cant drive it, can't sell it. Also noticed when you move the shift lever on the side of the transmission by hand it does not have a distinctive click between each gear. The 55 I have on the ground outside has the click As you move the lever back and forth...... I give up! Edited January 19, 2020 by NC-car-guy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said: No joy.... I removed the linkage and pushed the transmission lever all the way back....wheels still turn forward! Cant drive it, can't sell it. Also noticed when you move the shift lever on the side of the transmission by hand it does not have a distinctive click between each gear. The 55 I have on the ground outside has the click As you move the lever back and forth...... I give up! You'll figure it out. Step back and take a breather. Have a beer. This always works for me when crap just ain't going right. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Unlike the 55 there are no detentes in the 54 unit. Before the beer, take it out and drive it in all the working gears until hot...hot fluid may get it working. While taking a breather or beer research (starting with the service manual) "reverse band operating strut". That part can maybe be fixed without removing the tranny. Contact Mudbone on these forums. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 1 minute ago, old-tank said: Unlike the 55 there are no detentes in the 54 unit. Before the beer, take it out and drive it in all the working gears until hot...hot fluid may get it working. While taking a breather or beer research (starting with the service manual) "reverse band operating strut". That part can maybe be fixed without removing the tranny. Contact Mudbone on these forums. Yea I read about the reverse servo and strut in the manual, then took the one out of the 55 to "practice" and see where all the springs and stuff would fly out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 13 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said: Yea I read about the reverse servo and strut in the manual, then took the one out of the 55 to "practice" and see where all the springs and stuff would fly out... So now you already know more than the rest of us! It will be fun laying under that car with transmission fluid dripping in your face....and don't even get close to a hammer or torch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 On a brighter note it'll idle for 20 minutes and stay at 165... 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 14 hours ago, NC-car-guy said: On a brighter note it'll idle for 20 minutes and stay at 165... Small victories! Keep at it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) 17 hours ago, old-tank said: take it out and drive it in all the working gears until hot...hot fluid may get it working. THIS!!! Matt, as I've somewhat sarcastically stated earlier, "she backed into the garage when parked!!!" I drove BC around a good bit before tearing her down, she drove like a NEW CAR, no mechanical problems WHATSOEVER!!!! There was a transmission shop invoice in the glove compartment that if I recall correctly, notes that the reverse bans in the tranny had been replaced and tranny resealed. This work was done at the time the second owner obtained the car after it had sat since 1974. Perhaps if he had had access to Willies wisdom he could have saved whatever the $$ shown on the invoice. I still communicate with that guy and will ask about the details of the tranny repairs and report back. 19 hours ago, NC-car-guy said: I give up! As you know my friend, I was very happy to see Buttercup go to you. Seeing how you had loved, cared for and showed the Century I had previously sold you but that was sadly lost in the wreck , generated the desire in me for you to have her and I think I gave you a very fair deal. Man I'm sorry you're having these problems and hope you won't literally give up on her. Bringing a car back to life after it's been sitting for years isn't easy, and to quote @Mudbone if it was, everybody would be doing it. Please hang in there!!! Edited January 20, 2020 by MrEarl (see edit history) 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 Forgot to share my redneck exhaust extraction... 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Ingenuity is the spice of car guys and gals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 26 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: Ingenuity is the spice of car guys and gals. I always keep exhaust pipes of all shapes and sizes...never know when you or a friend needs a patch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 On 1/20/2020 at 10:38 AM, NC-car-guy said: Forgot to share my redneck exhaust extraction... Reverse flow -- I like it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 (edited) Cold rainy morning so I decided to tinker on easy stuff. As a nod to Lucy (wrecked century) I straightened out her license plate and dealer emblem and mounted both on buttercup. Also got the horns installed: Edited February 1, 2020 by NC-car-guy (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 Well... Turns out poor buttercup's radio was gutted. Glad I bought that one from Mike. A few moments and I switched the faceplate and the needle for proper 54 colors....we'll see if it works! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Most of the lights didn't work. Had to clean all the contacts and all the grounds. The license plate lights are the hardest. There's a little brass ring inside the rubber boot that picks up ground from the case and gets it to the bulb... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 13 hours ago, NC-car-guy said: There's a little brass ring inside the rubber boot that picks up ground from the case and gets it to the bulb... At least it is brass and not tin plated steel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 So I have an electrical gremlin somewhere... Dome light works fine but the trunk light and map light in the dash wont get power. Also the radio that worked when I bought it doesn't work now that its in my dash. Lights up but no noise and wont seek with the selectronic button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said: Also the radio that worked when I bought it doesn't work now that its in my dash. Lights up but no noise and wont seek with the selectronic button. Did you bench test it after changing the dial faceplate? Can you hear the vibrator buzzing? If not, that's likely the problem. If so, either the dial face is binding or the antenna is suspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 No buzzing and I wouldn't have thought to bench test it again after changing a dial face plate since I didn't interfere with anything inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 43 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said: No buzzing and I wouldn't have thought to bench test it again after changing a dial face plate since I didn't interfere with anything inside Click it on and off rapidly a few times...might jolt the vibrator into action. That is what I need to do with mine sometimes to get some tunes. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 (edited) Took it out for a jaunt.... $&#;#&!! Runs like sh*t. Put about 25 miles on it, up to 55 and it shook and shook and shook. Still no reverse even after all that so now it's stuck in the garage. Started diagnosing the shaking....#2 and #5 cylinder are dead. Compression test shows 120-130psi on both. Checked tested the spark plugs and wires. Lots of heat, I wasn't in afib but might be afterwards....... Checked for vacuum leaks, verified firing order, tried swapping wires and plugs from a cylinder that was hitting. I don't get it how do i have compression, fire, and fuel but when I pull that plug wire off at any rpm there's no change? Guess now I have to pull the engine and trans AGAIN. I will NEVER buy another car I cannot drive the day of purchase. I've also lost all interest in this one. This car is cursed...13k miles and everything on it has broken. Once fixed, it leaves! Edited February 2, 2020 by NC-car-guy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold at those cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 I did. Lots of carb cleaner wasted to no avail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 After taking a break and deep breath, pull the valve covers. Check to see the rockers for the cylinders are working as designed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: After taking a break and deep breath, pull the valve covers. Check to see the rockers for the cylinders are working as designed. Did that already. Everything looked normal. Everything was moving good. Lots of oil. Nothing felt sloppy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 I see you checked firing order. For fun did you switch wires 2 and 5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Just now, avgwarhawk said: I see you checked firing order. For fun did you switch wires 2 and 5? Tried that 1st Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Distributor cap is new? No hair line crack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: Distributor cap is new? No hair line crack? Looks good but haven't taken it under a bright light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Plugs on 2 and 5 are not wet with fuel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Do you have a spare coil to test it with? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 3 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: Do you have a spare coil to test it with? I don't see how a coil would affect only two cylinders and even on those two I can pull the wire almost an inch away and get the spark to jump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 8 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said: I don't see how a coil would affect only two cylinders and even on those two I can pull the wire almost an inch away and get the spark to jump Spark plugs wire resistance. How old are the wires. If you switch to a good known wire is there any change to the affected cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Let's go back to vacuum leaks: check the lines and fittings at the fuel pump...or just turn on the wipers to see if they still work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 3 hours ago, old-tank said: Let's go back to vacuum leaks: check the lines and fittings at the fuel pump...or just turn on the wipers to see if they still work. All vacuum lines are plugged just in case. And yes the wipers work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: Check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold at those cylinders. 4 hours ago, old-tank said: Let's go back to vacuum leaks: check the lines and fittings at the fuel pump...or just turn on the wipers to see if they still work. Considering you have spark, compression, tried a different plug, etc. this is most likely the answer. Vacuum wipers are disconnected and plugged? Right at the manifold? Good. Got power brakes? Do the same. Does this nailhead have the exhaust passages that run up through the manifold and contact the baseplate of the carb directly? The exhaust has been known to eat the gasket and throttle body up. If you have that setup it is possible for exhaust to be leaking into an intake passage. Technically its called a "dilution misfire", but the result is the same as an ordinary vacuum leak, a horrible miss. 5 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: After taking a break and deep breath, pull the valve covers. Check to see the rockers for the cylinders are working as designed. This probably isn't it since you have good compression, but I wouldn't rule it out, and if you can't find a intake leak this probably comes next. Edited February 3, 2020 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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