NC-car-guy

How buttercup got her groove back

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For the rear speaker switch, I used Lamar's template to get in the ball-park, but adjusted it slightly...  I measured and eye-ball confirmed to where it is even in height with the wiper control, and the same distance as is spaced between the headlight switch and wiper control.   Basically, balancing the three controls.  That worked visually for me, and is easy to see behind the wheel.  I had to grit my teeth while putting a drill to the dash, but more chrome and luxury is always good!!

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Well I pulled the water pump and unfortunately the leak is at the weep hole. I was really hoping I'd just messed up a gasket.  I'll send it to flow killer for a fancy impeller.  In the man time I'm going to flush the fuel tank again. 😳😜

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On 11/30/2019 at 3:43 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Stupid auto correct. Flow kooler.

 

Some people say Flowkooler is a gimmick, but the design is supposed to be high flow, minimal cavitation. If the school labs translate to cooling in a cylinder head, the best cooling is achieved when the flow is most turbulent, AKA going faster. You'll have to let us know how it performs, as I am wanting to do the same thing.

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Too bad we can't figure out a way to cool the nailhead like Chevy did with their 5.7 liter LT1.  Reverse flow has the water enter the heads first where the coolant is needed most.  It then flows through the block and back into the radiator.

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33 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Too bad we can't figure out a way to cool the nailhead like Chevy did with their 5.7 liter LT1.  Reverse flow has the water enter the heads first where the coolant is needed most.  It then flows through the block and back into the radiator.

 

Maybe there is a impeller that would fit or could be created for the original housing that move the water in opposite direction. 

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15 hours ago, Beemon said:

If the school labs translate to cooling in a cylinder head, the best cooling is achieved when the flow is most turbulent, AKA going faster. 

 

This does not compute. Water will need to slow so it can pick up the heat and carry it off as I understand it.  Is faster flow meaning moving more coolant than the standard impeller?  It appears I start outrun my water pump at speeds if 65-75 mph during very hot summer days.  I get a bit miffed when I see Pontiac of the same years that have a box from the grill to the radiator. The airflow has nowhere to go but through the radiator.  Our Buicks the airflow dances around and goes where it likes. 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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I don't know about the water pump but as for getting air through the radiator..... the 5 bladed fan sucks things through the grille and up against the radiator it moves so much air

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2 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

This does not compute. Water will need to slow so it can pick up the heat and carry it off as I understand it.

 

Without getting too much into heat transfer stuff, there is some degree of dwell time but from every lab test I've conducted on campus with cross-flow heat exchangers, faster flow of coolant through the hot stuff always equals better heat transfer. Think of it like this. The coolant contacts the surface of the hot stuff only on the outside of the flow volume. The more turbulent the flow, the more it "mixes" the flow so it constantly takes the fluid in contact with the outside and swaps places with the inside colder stream, until it reaches a saturation temperature if given enough time to dwell.

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Beemon said:

 

Without getting too much into heat transfer stuff, there is some degree of dwell time but from every lab test I've conducted on campus with cross-flow heat exchangers, faster flow of coolant through the hot stuff always equals better heat transfer. Think of it like this. The coolant contacts the surface of the hot stuff only on the outside of the flow volume. The more turbulent the flow, the more it "mixes" the flow so it constantly takes the fluid in contact with the outside and swaps places with the inside colder stream, until it reaches a saturation temperature if given enough time to dwell.

Check your PMs

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Think about how much 'cooler' you feel when it's 30° F outside and there's a 25 mph north wind compared to when it's 30° F outside and there's no wind.  

 

I don't know about the 50s era nailheads but on the 63 - 65 Rivieras with which I'm familiar, the A/C cars have an impeller with more blades than the non A/C cars, they have a 5 blade fan rather than a 4 blade fan, they have a shroud on the back of the radiator, and the radiator is sealed to the core support.  All to move the cooling factor (air in this case) faster in order to absorb more heat.

 

If you were to run a serpentine belt on the present setup, you would in essence reverse the flow of the coolant.  But that would also mean that you'd be pumping water into the bottom of the radiator. That ain't gonna work.  

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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13 hours ago, RivNut said:

Think about how much 'cooler' you feel when it's 30° F outside and there's a 25 mph north wind compared to when it's 30° F outside and there's no wind.  

 

I don't know about the 50s era nailheads but on the 63 - 65 Rivieras with which I'm familiar, the A/C cars have an impeller with more blades than the non A/C cars, they have a 5 blade fan rather than a 4 blade fan, they have a shroud on the back of the radiator, and the radiator is sealed to the core support.  All to move the cooling factor (air in this case) faster in order to absorb more heat.

 

If you were to run a serpentine belt on the present setup, you would in essence reverse the flow of the coolant.  But that would also mean that you'd be pumping water into the bottom of the radiator. That ain't gonna work.  

 

 

Metal does not experience the sensation of hot and cold as we humans do.    Reverse the hoses to the radiator!  Just a bit of replumbing.

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3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

 

Metal does not experience the sensation of hot and cold as we humans do.    Reverse the hoses to the radiator!  Just a bit of replumbing.

I know that, I was just trying to make a point.  Metal doesn't have sweat to be evaporated to cause "wind chill."  Water on the pond in 34 degree weather will not freeze even if the wind chill is -30 degrees F. 😎

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On 11/30/2019 at 6:43 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Stupid auto correct. Flow kooler.

SO after talking to Matt Martin at centerville, I'm going to leave the flow kooler alone.  He advised that it's more gimmick than real world benefit and that the stock pump will cool fine at highway speeds if all the water passages are clear (which I have verified).

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New water pump came in from Centerville yesterday I'm going to try and get it on this weekend. I have a bad feeling I may need to let this car go though. There's now 4 to $5,000 worth of work to remediate all the water under my house due to poorly installed cinder block skirting and grade of the lot.

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1 minute ago, JohnD1956 said:

Sorry to hear that Matt!  

Thanks.   Im just over-extended.  I need to wait until I'm a little more stable to worry about all this.

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On 11/24/2019 at 6:01 PM, old-tank said:

Put the car on jack stands; go over the adjustment procedure in the service manual again and the trouble shooting portion; if no joy disconnect the linkage at the transmission and move it through the range as a test (don' go back to the Park position with the wheels turning.)

No joy....  I removed the linkage and pushed the transmission lever all the way back....wheels still turn forward!  Cant drive it, can't sell it. Also noticed when you move the shift lever on the side of the transmission by hand it does not have a distinctive click between each gear. The 55 I have on the ground outside has the click As you move the lever back and forth...... I give up!

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)

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1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said:

No joy....  I removed the linkage and pushed the transmission lever all the way back....wheels still turn forward!  Cant drive it, can't sell it. Also noticed when you move the shift lever on the side of the transmission by hand it does not have a distinctive click between each gear. The 55 I have on the ground outside has the click As you move the lever back and forth...... I give up!

 

You'll figure it out. Step back and take a breather.  Have a beer. This always works for me when crap just ain't going right.  

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Unlike the 55 there are no detentes in the 54 unit. 

Before the beer, take it out and drive it in all the working gears until hot...hot fluid may get it working.

While taking a breather or beer research (starting with the service manual) "reverse band operating strut".  That part can maybe be fixed without removing the tranny.  Contact Mudbone on these forums. 

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1 minute ago, old-tank said:

Unlike the 55 there are no detentes in the 54 unit. 

Before the beer, take it out and drive it in all the working gears until hot...hot fluid may get it working.

While taking a breather or beer research (starting with the service manual) "reverse band operating strut".  That part can maybe be fixed without removing the tranny.  Contact Mudbone on these forums. 

Yea I read about the reverse servo and strut in the manual, then took the one out of the 55 to "practice" and see where all the springs and stuff would fly out...

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13 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Yea I read about the reverse servo and strut in the manual, then took the one out of the 55 to "practice" and see where all the springs and stuff would fly out...

So now you already know more than the rest of us!

It will be fun laying under that car with transmission fluid dripping in your face.:D...and don't even get close to a hammer or torch.

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On a brighter note it'll idle for 20 minutes and stay at 165...

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