NC-car-guy

How buttercup got her groove back

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8 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Yes, I stand by my statements.  It was indicated that the trans cooler had black greasy solids in it.  I figured this was in the coolant passages of the trans cooler.  As such, that same black greasy material is probably present, and settled into the lower regions of the engine block.  

And if the cooler cannot be successfully flushed of that material, then I think I would go for an auxiuliary trans cooler for the front of the radiator, and eliminate this factory coolant unit. 

Gotcha.  I didn't know that was an option on these old dynaflows. Unfortunately not an option on this particular car due to originality concerns.

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2 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Gotcha.  I didn't know that was an option on these old dynaflows. Unfortunately not an option on this particular car due to originality concerns.

 

Well, look around and we see that faithful reconstruction to exact original standards is really only practiced with museum pieces.  What with the lack of availability and the changes inevitable in automotive related engineering and design, modifications are becoming more acceptable and in some cases even required.  

Even my cars are not totally original.  The Electra has a recreated vinyl roof, the GS has R134A in the AC with a "sausage" type inline filter added, and the 56 has a 3 row radiator core.... The only modification on the '56 is the rebuilt AM radio with the line in for external broadcast sources ( the GS and Electra have this too).  But those external dynaflow coolers are hard to find I imagine, and if you want to drive the car I do not think anyone would fault you for adding an external cooler.  If desired, the plugged original cooler can remain in position with faux lines attached to give a realistic visual of originality, while the work is done within the new, more efficient piece. As always, 90% of the folks looking at the mechanicals will have no idea that that cooler is not original unless you hang it with plastic zip ties. 95% won't care if it's original and 100% of the people won't even know it's there when they see it driving down the road. 

 

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Posted (edited)

So my temp sender broke off in the blocit. Even with the engine out I've been unable to remove it. Thinking I may need to put some high heat or a drill to it. Anyone done this before?

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Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)

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Dig the "innards" out of the bulb, then use tap that will engage the inside.

Remove the head.

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7 hours ago, old-tank said:

 

Remove the head.

Scared of what I'll find. Lol

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4 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Scared of what I'll find. Lol

 

Marvel Mystery oil 

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13 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

So my temp sender broke off in the blocit. Even with the engine out I've been unable to remove it. Thinking I may need to put some high heat or a drill to it. Anyone done this before?

20190609_153128.jpg

 

 Remove the valve cover and check if a rocker shaft stand bolt goes into it right there. Does on the straight eight.

 

  Ben

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Posted (edited)

So I popped the casting plugs out and shes not as rough inside as I expected. I guess the water pump and timing cover took the brunt of the crud somehow.

Still not sure what the black goo in the system is....maybe some sort of organic like mold or bacteria? Doesnt smell like oil, smells like old coolant. Also not milky like a water/oil mix would be. I was also able access the temp sender from the plug in the back of the head. Still pissed I broke it though.  I've contacted Russ for a full gasket set (might as well while its out) and a cast plug set.  I do think I'm going to have the water pump done by that company that puts the high flow impeller in though, can't see that from outside anyhow! I should probably use my 5-blade A/C fan. That shouldnt be a deduction if it is an original piece that was an option back then should it?

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Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Also noticed a big difference in the 54 and 55 frames...

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Just ask any woman how much extra support is appreciated for those large dagmars!  😁 

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Well, I'll be separating the transmission and tearing down the engine this weekend.  Entire new gasket set is on the way, head gaskets to main seals.   Little pro tip.... drive your cars, don't let them sit!!!

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Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

drive your cars, don't let them sit!!! 

 

ouch, but tha's OK, I deserve it, no good excuse to have let it sit torn down that long. BADD, it's a terrible disease.  But why are you having to go to that extent, are you sure you're not over doing it?  The car was running great when I started the extreme engine detail job and has been stored in the dry barn with duct tape over the carb and water passages, juice in the cylinders, a quilt over the engine and a cover over the car. People pull cars out of barns and fields, shoot some juice in their cylinders and off they go, running fine for years. Your blue Century was in a leaky warehouse since the eighties, she did fine right? So what did I do to ef this one up that requires a full engine tear down do you think.

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

ouch, but tha's OK, I deserve it, no good excuse to have let it sit torn down that long. BADD, it's a terrible disease.  But why are you having to go to that extent, are you sure you're not over doing it?  The car was running great when I started the extreme engine detail job and has been stored in the dry barn with duct tape over the carb and water passages, juice in the cylinders, a quilt over the engine and a cover over the car. People pull cars out of barns and fields, shoot some juice in their cylinders and off they go, running fine for years. Your blue Century was in a leaky warehouse since the eighties, she did fine right? So what did I do to ef this one up that requires a full engine tear down do you think.

 

 

It's just been sitting A lot,   even before you got it. 13k miles in 65 years....   I had planned on doing valve cover  an oil pan gaskets just to try to keep her from ruining the new paint but the major build-up of crust in the water pump and timing cover area have me worried about the head gaskets because those were metal and there are certain passages that the head gaskets purposely block off. If those specific passages rust through  I could hydrolock an engine. And while yes the same things could have happened on my blue century, that car had a hundred and fifteen thousand miles on it, so if something happened it was probably near time for a rebuild anyway. In this case I have this perfect engine already out of this car  if I repainted it all stuffed it back in  and then blew a head gasket  you better believe I would be  parking at somewhere  and getting out of the hobby. I also know that that rear main seal is only rope and having sat for as long as it has I bet you it is very crispy rope.  So its not just you...  it's just the fact that it's a low-mileage car over all these years and the engines already out of it.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)

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Engine is all torn down.  No major surprises. Some sludge in the pan but overall pretty good. Pressure washed out all the mud in the cooling passages.  Degreasing and waiting on gaskets....

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"Yeah - Purple Power is GREAT!  I bathe in it!"

RqeOeFA.jpg

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The best results come from  extensive prep work.   Clean, clean and re-clean.  Then paint.   

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Yay! Look what came in today.....  Still going to try to repair the original but this is good backup.

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Cleaned up the timing cover some.20190620_194421.thumb.jpg.f73f944ab899f292d049f4c4fd7a8341.jpg

Soaking pumps in rust soak to see which will be best to rebuild.

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25 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

The water pump after soaking....

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Re using as is right 

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2 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

 

Re using as is right 

No. Sending out for rebuild....

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