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Storage in an Enclosed Trailer


Curti

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I looked into this about a year ago. I'm in Michigan so my desire was to use it for winter storage. I dId some experimenting.

 

I have a large unheated barn so just parking a car in that is fine in the dead of winter but as soon as you get into days above freezing with higher humidity, every surface on that car condenses moisture and it is dripping wet. This happens often in early winter and constantly when transitioning to spring time.

 

So I thought I would try a car capsule (inflatable plastic cocoon with a fan that keeps it inflated). I ended up with similar results but with the constant air exchanges, the car would dry out more quickly.

 

The results of using an enclosed trailer was a bit better as it slowed the temperature changes a bit. But it also depended on how sealed up it is...... it's really hard to seal out humidity. So you still get sweating.

 

Next I considered insulating the enclosed trailer and keeping it heated inside. After some deliberation I decided not to risk burning up or smoking out  my car with a potentially failed ceramic heater. 

 

I took some good advice, build or find a heated building. It's amazing how much wasted room is in the back corners of a heated aircraft hanger.

Scott

 

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6 hours ago, Stude Light said:

...It's amazing how much wasted room is in the back corners of a heated aircraft hanger.

 

Good idea, Scott!

Anyone living close to an airport,

especially smaller ones, should 

check out this possibility for car storage.

 

As for larger hangars, don't you think

they might have a little extra space here:

junk--blimp hangar.jpg

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
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I bought a brand new enclosed car trailer this fall to store my shop equipment in until my shop is built.  I checked it a couple of times as I have some bare steel decked wood working tools in it and was surprised it doesn't seem to have any sweating issues as of yet.  Granted I try not to go in it when the temperature changes are happening to avoid letting the warm wet air in.  Of course that cube of cold iron keeps the interior temperature low even on warm days.  It seems very sealed as well which helps.  I think leaving a vent open would be more of a problem as that allows the warm moist air to filter in.  

I used to store one of my cars in a basement that was unheated but dry.  That car never sweat no matter how warm it was outside during the winter.  The only time I would get sweating was the day I took it out from winter storage and put it outside. 

If you can keep the temperature from changing you won't get sweating. 

I'm in the Northeast and this is a year to talk about temperature swings.  a high of 20 one day,  then freezing rain and 45 the next. 

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Don't put a non breathable cover on the vehicle in the trailer, and put a dehumidifier the trailer if possible. Cold winters have low humidity typically. When you store a vehicle in the Fall, moist air can get trapped in a well sealed trailer and that is the cause of condensation when the temp starts to warm up. Check with storage companies, they use silica packs that remove moisture from their smaller storage units. It might work fine in a trailer.  

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I have my wife's Camaro in an enclosed car trailer this winter and have stored other cars in semi trailers and a 40 ft container.  The only one that I would have condensation issues with is the container and I believe that is because it is sitting on the ground.  The trailers are dry all of the time.

 

In the container I put about 15 gallons of silica jell in 5 gallon buckets in the container in the fall.  I do not open the container until spring when I am going to get the cars out.  The cars are dry and the silica jell is heavy as it has absorbed the moisture in the container.

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Another consideration if storing in an enclosed trailer is theft.  I personally know 3 people who lost their cars when their trailers were stolen including a well known 1947 Cadillac convertible that disappeared in SE Michigan several years ago.  It had previously participated in many CLC & CCCA events. 

 

https://history.gmheritagecenter.com/wiki/index.php/The_Standard_of_the_World..._1947_Cadillac_Series_62_Convertible

 

And yes, two of the trailers were in locked storage yards.  Don't know specifics about the third one.

Edited by CarFreak (see edit history)
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Is that at Moffett Field in Mountain View ? Heard they have had rainstorms inside.

 

Friend of mine has a bit of land and put four 8x40 containers in the back forty (about $2k each delivered around here). Never heard of a moisture problem and we get a bit of rain (55"/year) here. Do think he added an exhaust fan to each.

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I have seen the results of longer term storage in a non-vented container in Hamilton, NZ. The car, an NSU Ro80, was a right-off. The carburettor had corroded so much the throat was closed. The inside was a sea of fungus, all over every vinyl, carpet and fabric surface. The body was very rusty.

 

It would work if the container was vented, such as a refrigerated container is. Extractor fan installation is an excellent idea.

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35-40 years ago my dad bought a broken down bread delivery truck with the roll up rear door.  He put it at his buddies junk yard and filled it full of parts.  There may be a vent on top, but the parts have stayed pretty good over the years.  Granted, there wasn't a show car being stored, just parts. 

 

I would think that a non-vented trailer would be asking for condensation.

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Thermostatic controlled exhaust fans are pretty cheap here, under $50, can keep a lot cooler in the summer (have in my garages). Getting power to the container for lights and such is harder. Dunno about elsewhere but containers 20', 40', 40' high cube are plentiful in Florida. All my friend does is to bring some fill in to make a level pad with good drainage. Has been using for cars (two plus "stuff" will fit in a 40') and parts for a couple of decades with no problem. For about $2k each they are hard to beat (but truck needs access to location to drop).

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 This is just a trailer with no vent and no  AC to it.  It isn't air tight, in that I don't think a person would suffocate in it.  The silica seems like a good idea. What is a good place to buy 15 pounds of that ?

I am storing that 32 Auburn I just hauled home. There is just no space inside right now. 

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When I was experimenting with my trailer I didn't seal up my side vents. I think if you sealed up your trailer as much as possible and used a lot of desiccant you would be safe. The key is to either remove the temperature swings or the humidity (or both).

Scott

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1 hour ago, ArticiferTom said:

Northern sells solar exhaust fans for about $300 and add a combo heat /humidity stat for under $100 . Light available also .

Great idea for summer but I wouldn't recommend running it during the times of condensation (cold/warm/humid cycles) as you will be pulling in warmer humid air over your cold car.

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1 hour ago, ArticiferTom said:

Northern sells solar exhaust fans for about $300 and add a combo heat /humidity stat for under $100 . Light available also .

This is a good idea. I googled around and found this made for trailers. 

http://www.solarblasterfans.com/products/rvblaster/

Good ideas come from lots of ideas.

 

I think you are right about that Stude Light !!

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10 hours ago, CarFreak said:

Another consideration if storing in an enclosed trailer is theft.  I personally know 3 people who lost their cars when their trailers were stolen including a well known 1947 Cadillac convertible that disappeared in SE Michigan several years ago.  It had previously participated in many CLC & CCCA events. 

 

https://history.gmheritagecenter.com/wiki/index.php/The_Standard_of_the_World..._1947_Cadillac_Series_62_Convertible

 

And yes, two of the trailers were in locked storage yards.  Don't know specifics about the third one.

That would be my concern

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22 minutes ago, JamesBulldogMiller55Buick said:

That would be my concern

 

 

Ditto, way to easy to get it mobile quickly. Thieves are more talented than most of us realize. I used to work around ex-cons and would get their opinion about things just to learn from the responses. It was frightening and enlightening to say the least.

Curt, please do not store that vehicle in a enclosed trailer (for extended periods of time) if you can avoid it.

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12 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

I am not worried about theft. We live out in the country, at the end of a dead end road, the drive way is 1/4 mile long, and the trailer is plowed in. What is more they would be on camera.  Oh, the the trailer hitch is locked as well. 

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9 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:

 

 

Ditto, way to easy to get it mobile quickly. Thieves are more talented than most of us realize. I used to work around ex-cons and would get their opinion about things just to learn from the responses. It was frightening and enlightening to say the least.

Curt, please do not store that vehicle in a enclosed trailer (for extended periods of time) if you can avoid it.

We have GPS tracking on ours. It's moved, we are alerted. 

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 With all the "Flaws" of storing a car in an enclosed trailer, it is better than leaving it in the open or under a open shed!

 

 

 I store mine in truck bodies that have a vent that is covered with a cloth to keep out the dust, but will allow a little air change, Batt. disconnects on all.

 

 The bodys are spaced out to prevent fire damage from another one. All are locked and fenced at my home.

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

I have a 40 foot container that I store stuff in.

It has a few vents built into it and I live where it rains a lot.

I never had any problems with moisture.

 

We also have 10, 40ft containers that we store parts with no moister problem, We just had over 100 in of rain and it's high and dry. No modifications was done to these. Bought them from the shipping yards.

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For moisture, it's not so much the rain but having a warm moist air mass move into an area that has cold soaked at 10 degrees F for a week.  It takes a lot of time for that car to stabilize temperature and, unless a trailer is really sealed well, the moisture in the air will get in and condense on that nice cold block of steel.  So you either regulate the temperature (heater) to keep the car from getting cold enough to condense the moisture or regulate the moisture (dehumidifier or large amounts of desiccant).  I have two options for mice...typical mousetraps that you need to check occasionally or the 5 gallon pail solution.....it has been mentioned in other threads.  The one with the rotating plastic pop (soda for others) bottle with peanut butter on it and water or non-toxic antifreeze in the bottom.

Scott

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