caddyshack

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About caddyshack

  • Rank
    AACA Member
  • Birthday 01/09/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    State of 10,000 Lakes
  • Interests:
    Cabin life, family, friends, pre-teen autos, and solid axel Vettes.

Converted

  • Biography
    Joined AACA in early 70's. Keep them original.
    '04 Cad, '12 Brush, '26 & '29 Ford, '62 Vet all stock.

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  1. Make it a revocable trust. You might change your mind about things later. And, get an excellent estate attorney.
  2. Finally found the H.H.Babcock Company in Watertown, New York. Very interesting web-site and a great explanation of what you are looking for. Good luck
  3. Never said it did not exist, but your last post cleared up my question. Babcock must have been a specialty body manufacturer that used the standard Ford chassis along with cowl. hood, running boards, splash aprons, etc.. This was a common practice back then. There are many body variations (i.e. delivery, buses, specialty vendors, etc.) that used a Ford chassis. Ford did not make an estate car, Babcock did. There again, where was the Babcock assembly facility located?
  4. I have collected and sold Model T's for 55 years and have never heard of a "Babcock Estate" Ford. The pictures show a basic '26/'27 Ford touring or possibly roadster that has been modified with either a homemade or possible kit attachment. That is not a standard Ford body style. The red photo shows some nice workmanship but any standard body parts (seats etc.) would have to be fabricated to fit the non-Ford rear section. Where was this Babcock edition located? Maybe someone in that area has heard of it. Good luck with the project.
  5. The value is related to what the engine was in (standard car, corvette high performance, truck, etc.). If it is just a block, not that rare. If it is a complete higher performance Corvette engine with all manifolds and internals, then yes, it is very desirable. Add stock Fuel Injection to that date code and the value climbs even higher. Good luck with your purchase.
  6. Thanks John. I looked at the ones on my '12 F Model and they measure the same, so the right and left designation in the parts book must refer to the center of each shock. Learn something new every day. Thanks for checking. Skip in 50 below MN.
  7. Jonah, The circled bracket that attaches to the frame is called the "skein" in the Brush parts book. Just another name for shock absorber. They sold these in either a left hand or right hand form. I always thought that they were interchangeable but not certain now. Maybe others could add some help here. Good luck.
  8. I like the fuel feed set-up. Looks like three carbs with original fuel lines to each was eliminated, but now the center carb is the only one used.
  9. Hi Cole, the paperwork indicating a 1904 vintage is wrong. Alanson Brush was working for Cadillac at that time. He started the Brush Company in 1906 and produced the first Brush Model A in Jan. of 1907. Models 1A, 1B, 1C (truck), were introduced in Oct. 1907. Model B (July 1908), Model BC (mid 1909), Model D (Nov. 1909, Model E and Model M truck (1911), Model F and Liberty (July 1911). There are many sub-model numbers in each years Model. The Model E had an E-24, E-26, and E-28 version as an example. Does your Brush have a brass ID plate attached to the seat kick board or a serial number stamped on top of the cylinder head? The ID plate would show the Model number, but without the plate the serial number could reference the year as well. Good luck, keep us posted.
  10. Bob, it is never easy selling something that you have enjoyed for so many years. All sorts of emotions enter into play. I sold a beautiful original Model A two years ago that I purchased in 1976 and the feelings ranged from joy to root canal work. The best part was selling it to a young man in a small town that wanted to keep it original and join the AACA. Now that is refreshing. Happy New Year everyone.
  11. Dave, I assume that you have researched the high wheeler extensively. I don't own one, but the searsautobuggy.com web site is loaded with great info. From the site info and your number 2684 I would put it in the 1910 Model P range. There are only two places for a serial number; a brass plate mounted in the back body panel and the left side of the front cross member. This is a great web site and I learned quite a bit. Good luck with your search.
  12. Cole, another site that will have lots of good info is brush auto.net. The owners manual may not be for your year Brush, but the info is pretty basic for all models. Good luck.
  13. Welcome Cole. This site is probably as good as any other site when it comes to quality information. The AACA library will have Brush info on file, and there are still a few members around that I am sure would help you get started. The Brush Owners Club is no longer active in the U.S.. Australia has started a new International Brush Club, but I am not a member. In order to help your needs, you will want to post information about your Brush (year, motor number, body style, mechanical needs general condition, etc.), and your location. There may be someone in your area that would help. Let us know, we are here to help. Nice photo by the way.
  14. Ford 1917 to 23? roughly. This set-up (electric bulb lamp) was used on a starter equipped auto. A non-starter equipped auto would have used an oil lamp with a red lens and clear lens facing the license plate