brushF26

Greg, There should be a number stamped on the transmission. Pull your floor boards and look down at the transmission from the drivers side and the number should be on the drivers side on the top front corner. It is a stamped number. I have seen it on many transmissions over the years. Sometimes its difficult to see due to paint , dirt, rust or oil build up so it may be that you have to use a wire brush and clean that area to see it. My 1912 F26 roadster transmission is stamped 15959 and my engine is stamped 16959 which correlates to the chart you posted showing the transmission number being 1000 different than the engine number . It is my understanding that if your transmission was replaced way back in the days , when Brush cars were on the road, with a transmission from the factory or a parts distributor it may not have a number, and if it was replaced with a transmission from another Brush ( or the engine was ) than the numbers may not correlate. Hope this helps and please keep everyone posted if you find a number. Scott

I believe my J&B coil is bad . I have re wired my coil box and put all new wires to spark plug, battery and commutator . Tried three new fully charged batteries and still nothing . No spark and no buzz no matter what adjustments I do . Is there anywhere I can send it to for test/adjust/rebuild ? Is there anyone who has an extra coil for sale ? Thanks

So I got the transmission all disassembled and inspected and cleaned all the parts. Reassembled and now just have to get it back in the car. Did not find any issues at all as far as I could see. Now moving on to the next step and that is ensuring the teeth are properly aligned ensuring the valves are opening and closing at the right time because with my lack of power it has been suggested that while the car runs at idle speed that maybe its off by one tooth and then when I get to higher RPMs the intake or exhaust valve is open a bit and i am losing compression hence the lack of power when driving the car. In order to do this I had to take the front of the engine off. Going to again inspect everything but most importantly make sure the gears are aligned. Also going to remove the cylinder cap and valve caps and clean and inspect all that also. The bronze gear had black paint markings on it that correlate with the exhaust and intake valve opening and a stamped X correlating with both valves being fully closed. I do not know how they aligned with the gear on the crank before I took it apart and can only assume I need to find some way to ensure things stay in position and line up correctly when I reassemble Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Got most everything apart last night . Going to clean everything this weekend and inspect all the parts. I did notice there is some oxidation on the bronze and steel plates. Any suggestions on how to clean that off? The manuals from way back then say to use emery cloth. What should I be looking for as to what the thickness of the bronze plates should be and also the steel plates ? Scott

So my 2018 winter project of disassembling and inspecting the transmission due to lack of power really turned into a 2019 spring project. Thought I would post my project as I go along in hopes others with more experience than me can give me some advice. So the transmission , at least to me, doesn't feel like it ever fully engages. And the car has always lacked enough power to drive it up on a trailer. With years of helpful advice , and getting my transmission to work to begin with , from John I have done a lot to the engine such as new piston and rings, bored, adjusted the timing every way imaginable, different plugs ,etc. So over the winter I had the coil redone and the gentleman suggested I switch to 12v . Not that its gonna give me a noticeable increase in power but it will give me a much better spark for better combustion and maybe a slight increase in power . So now with the weather finally better I was able to spend enough time on the garage floor to get the transmission out ( not a fun project on my own) . Tonight I will start the disassembly of the transmission. Basically I am just taking it apart to look for oxidation on the plates, check the thickness of the plates and look for any abnormal wear. Any suggestions from anybody would be greatly appreciated. More pictures to follow as I get deeper into this project.

I have had these springs for 30 years and not sure what they are for . They measure 36" long . Two have one more leaf each than the other two so possibly two are for the front and two are for the back . PM me if you are interested . Scott

Optima Red top 6V battery bought new in July . Not able to use in my car due to size . $150 OBO. Located in central NY and can deliver possibly

Cole, Where are you located ? Scott

Trying to help a friend get his 1951 GMC truck started. He had a complete restoration done 5 years ago and the truck has sat since the day he drove it into the garage 5 years ago. Last week the old gas was drained and new gas added and a new battery was put in . It is a 6v system. The engine is getting gas but doesnt seem to be getting spark and I am not overly familiar with this year vehicle . There are no visible frayed, chewed, broken etc wires. Could it be as simple as replacing the coil and if so where do I track down a coil for him? ? Any suggestions would be appreciated . Thanks, Scott

Someone is selling a 1909 Brush on ebay for $64,500 in case anybody is looking for one or knows somebody looking for one . Looks like a very nice car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1909-Other-Makes-Leather-/182403953499?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a781f735b:g:dpIAAOSw44BYZW-7&item=182403953499

Caddyshack the DU1 would be the correct one for a magneto equipped Brush although I am sure others could be used . I have a DU1 on my 1912 F26 but I unfortunately lack ( I lost them) the connections to advance or retard the mag . Over the years guys have asked if there is anyone who has a working mag on a Brush to take pictures and post them but I have never seen any pictures . Apparently there are few Brush cars with mags or few guys who have them that read forums like this.The front part of your engine would need a bracket to hold the mag , internal and external gears and other parts . You also need the same valve cap plug that the spark plug goes in . My understanding , and how my car is set up , is that the engine has two spark plugs . One for starting on battery and one for switching over as soon as it starts and driving it while running off the mag . This is my understanding of a Brush with a mag . Hopefully somebody with more info than me will share their knowledge with everybody . Scott

John, When you mention extra clearance how much are you meaning ? I had my cylinder bored 30 over and Egge is making the new piston. I would assume they would be aware of things like that but I guess I probably should reach out to them to confirm . Scott

Skip, I have reached out to a few guys but have not heard back yet about the fact the new piston will be lighter and if that will affect things . Egge Machine is making the new piston for me and the first schematic for me to approve should be emailed to me this week. Once approved they should have the new piston to me in about 6-8 weeks. I had my cylinder bored 30 over last week . Whats your thought about having the new piston made with thicker walls so as to increase the weight ? I have the "New Style" auxiliary counter balance on my engine so since that is adjustable I am hoping that may also help . Maybe someone will read this post who has the knowledge of if the lighter piston will create issues and how to correct those issues. Scott

After a lot of research and a lot of help from other Brush owners I have found a company that will make a new piston with rings for me but their minimum order is (4) pistons. Is there anybody who would be interested in a new aluminum piston ? Once I know how many pistons are needed whether that be the minimum (4) or possibly more then I will get an estimate on cost. Scott

That is the address I have sent multiple emails to with no reply.