Gary W

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

Recommended Posts

Gary,

 

I am having a heck of a time finding the correct oil for my 36 Plymouth transmission.  I had my buddy (who owns a transmission shop) go through it.  Bearings were fine, but the synchro hub was worn out. I got a nos hub and he re sealed the transmission.  Believe me, Chrysler Corp's transmission design, along with linkages and emergency brake hub is a departure from the simplicity of GM and Ford.  Chrysler designed the synchros as a "hub" not using individual rings.  As you may know, synchros are basically a "brake" which slows the gear so that it may mesh with the next gear during the gear change.  The new oils are no where near as thick as what was specked in the thirties.  When I shift, I have to allow the engine to drop in rpms and "gingerly" shift" so that I don't get the grinding of the gears.  And forget downshifting.  I have to do that at a stop. 

 

One of the Plymouth owners on my request said that you had used a specific product in your transmission.  I went back to your description of what you did to your transmission.  Other than painting it, there was no mention of the gear oil that you used.  I am trying to find the heaviest oil (preferably 140 wt.) as So Cal never goes below 55 to 60 degrees (in the winter during the day)  with most weather in the mid 70's to 80's.  In the summer, we do get up in the 90's for short spells, hence the need for a heavy oil.  

 

The problem is that my local auto parts store only has 90 weight oil (straight viscosity) and it is ( as I was told) compatible with  brass/bronze components in the transmission.  But one of the guys on the Plymouth site told me that 90 weight oil in today's oils is not the same as what was produced back in the thirties. 

 

Can you or any of your peers let me know if they have a specific product that they can recommend for my transmission?  Most of the transmissions back in the thirties used the same oils, which are non existent out here at my local supply houses.  If I get the proper brand, I may be able to order it on line from a supplier back there.

 

Your help will be appreciated.

 

Respectfully,

 

Randy                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Friday January 19, 2018:  Inside of Trunk Lid painted

 

 

I stopped by the shop on my way home today.  The inside of the trunk lid is painted and the outside is sanded nice and smooth.

Bob will allow the inside to cure fully before flipping it over to paint the outside.  We are shooting for Wednesday install.

 

 

DSC_0296.thumb.jpg.a7c646fad53cef0de4af51214aef6024.jpg

Inside of the trunk all painted.

 

 

DSC_0298.thumb.jpg.8f1c204f2e570f60084eaa9183909db9.jpg

Here you can see how smooth the outer side is, all ready for paint.

 

 

Have a great weekend!

Gary

 

 

 

 

(*** Randy....  Transmission Oil was discussed in June, 2017:  Page 12,  Post #300;    Page 13,  Posts 301,2,3,8,9,11,12,13,14 & 322,   and  Page 14,  Posts 333 & 334)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Randiego said:

Gary,

 

I am having a heck of a time finding the correct oil for my 36 Plymouth transmission.  I had my buddy (who owns a transmission shop) go through it.  Bearings were fine, but the synchro hub was worn out. I got a nos hub and he re sealed the transmission.  Believe me, Chrysler Corp's transmission design, along with linkages and emergency brake hub is a departure from the simplicity of GM and Ford.  Chrysler designed the synchros as a "hub" not using individual rings.  As you may know, synchros are basically a "brake" which slows the gear so that it may mesh with the next gear during the gear change.  The new oils are no where near as thick as what was specked in the thirties.  When I shift, I have to allow the engine to drop in rpms and "gingerly" shift" so that I don't get the grinding of the gears.  And forget downshifting.  I have to do that at a stop. 

 

One of the Plymouth owners on my request said that you had used a specific product in your transmission.  I went back to your description of what you did to your transmission.  Other than painting it, there was no mention of the gear oil that you used.  I am trying to find the heaviest oil (preferably 140 wt.) as So Cal never goes below 55 to 60 degrees (in the winter during the day)  with most weather in the mid 70's to 80's.  In the summer, we do get up in the 90's for short spells, hence the need for a heavy oil.  

 

The problem is that my local auto parts store only has 90 weight oil (straight viscosity) and it is ( as I was told) compatible with  brass/bronze components in the transmission.  But one of the guys on the Plymouth site told me that 90 weight oil in today's oils is not the same as what was produced back in the thirties. 

 

Can you or any of your peers let me know if they have a specific product that they can recommend for my transmission?  Most of the transmissions back in the thirties used the same oils, which are non existent out here at my local supply houses.  If I get the proper brand, I may be able to order it on line from a supplier back there.

 

Your help will be appreciated.

 

Respectfully,

 

Randy                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Randy:

 

As I am sure people on here will tell you, you want GL-1 or GL-4 (EP) oil for the trans. GL-5 will eat up what's left of your syncros.

 

Sta-Lube, a CRC product usually available at NAPA is available in a 140 weight GL-4.

 

Cheers, Dave

 

Edit: Spinney says there are exceptions. Fine, do the research yourself and decide what's best for you. I base my opinion on Widman: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

But you are free to do whatever, it's your car. If further discussion is warranted, perhaps this should be moved to another thread and we can let Gary get back to his project!

 

Cheers again, Dave

Edited by Daves1940Buick56S (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My local O'Reilly's has a Masterpro GL4 140 wt gear oil available on the shelf for under $20 per gallon. I used that in my 1937 Buick Century. It solved my problem when I tried to use a 90 weight oil. 

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/masterpro-chemicals-4341/chemicals---fluids-16461/grease---lube-16582/gear-oil---additives-16905/gear-oil---140w-20063/masterpro-chemicals-gear-oil/80040/4495693

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Randiego Why are you posting here in a Buick restoration thread?

 

@Daves1940Buick56S please see the discussion Gary references above. Your statement about GL-5 oil is a broad generalisation and not correct for many oils.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This may sound stupid, but  I was afraid to start cutting the rug to fit the floor properly.  Being the mat was already pre-cut (somewhat) and had the jute backing, I simply fine-tuned the rubber mat to my car and then used it as a template to cut the rug.  It is already formed to the transmission tunnel, the pedals, door sills and the seat and it adds a little more sound deadening under the carpet.  (Looking back, I would have ruined my carpet if I followed the markings that the manufacturer drew on the underside). But I guess as long as you can fabricate a good template, you can cut the Dynamat and your carpet.  Also, I figured if I'm ever at a show, and the car is supposed to have the mat up front (not carpet), I can remove the carpet for judging and have the Buick black mat on the floor.  

 

(I did use dynamat on the entire floor of the car, the self-adhesive sections.  The thick Dynaliner sticks directly to the Dynamat, and the size fits the rear section almost perfectly right out of the box.  Very little trimming and waste to get the rear section done.  It's a very easy product to use, but for me, using the mat up front as a template/ carpet base was just safer)

 

Hope it helps!  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Saturday January 20, 2018:  Finalized wiring to the Trippe Lamps

 

Tonight I finished running the wires out to the fog lights.  I also ran a dedicated ground to each lamp and it makes a ton of difference in the lamp brightness.   

I think because the bumper support irons are powder coated, there isn't a great electrical ground.

 

DSC_0406.thumb.jpg.ca215549c62ac5b30c68e716fc0c78e7.jpg

 

 

 

DSC_0390.thumb.jpg.e5e0746108d341fe22991532243e1dde.jpg

Just looks so cool in the dark garage.

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/13/2018 at 9:50 PM, Gary W said:

Saturday January 13, 2018:  Installation of the Hood

 

 

This morning Bob came over with his son and a couple friends and the five of us lifted the hood into position.  Once the "muscle" was done, Bob stayed for another hour with me to start making the adjustments.

I think we have it about 90%, but it still needs some fine tuning. 

 

 

DSC_7145.thumb.jpg.f69eb106de4bc62c4665746bdd5675fa.jpg

I was getting set up, covering the fenders and making some preliminary measurements.

 

 

DSC_7152.thumb.jpg.afd99ff9023de83bfba8559c25bc9062.jpg

I placed towels over the front and cowl just in case it slipped.

 

 

IMG_1541.thumb.jpg.37f450c70b4c2cba1e8fd79002968f8e.jpg

We actually had five guys here.  One on each corner and Bob at the front.  Here we are with the first lift getting the hood up and over the front clip.

 

 

DSC_7183.thumb.jpg.bc9bd7b796fa0d98e67b042a66098bc1.jpg

With five guys, it was much easier getting it lined up before dropping the bolts into the holes.

 

 

5a5abffb75303_ScreenShot2018-01-13at9_05_50PM.thumb.png.ae88730d5a925c786446c3e3d754ef0a.png

Everyone was watching their corner as we slowly dropped it down.

 

 

IMG_1544.thumb.jpg.cebe75ea279af1da2b6bf7db39b1fa4f.jpg

Here I was setting the rear hold-down bolt down into the cowl mounting hole.  I used one flat washer here so the sheet metal was at the same level as the cowl.

 

 

IMG_1545.thumb.jpg.0355d900f948da0c29675f1830773e7e.jpg

And slowing closing the sides down.  

 

 

IMG_1547.thumb.jpg.3d81d79cc3e2dc064674902a9602627e.jpg

Once that part was done, the gang left and Bob and I started making some adjustments.

First thing was to tighten down the forward and rear hold down nuts.

 

 

DSC_7200.thumb.jpg.043bc2c2598a2824aaaac04c0fea15bd.jpg

The hood prop will hold both sides of the hood up so we can tighten up the rods.

 

 

DSC_7252.thumb.jpg.3baae19096f26e33bb37e430b2d2f62e.jpg

Bob stayed an extra hour with me, and we got it really close, but it still needs some finessing.

 

 

DSC_7249.thumb.jpg.9ee4ef4174baeef50430a96c62a1380d.jpg

I would like to close the rear gap a little. 

 

 

DSC_7255.thumb.jpg.321eb313d89dcaef9c800fd744f7fe5c.jpg

Here's a side view.  It looks pretty good so far.  Like always, I set in place, made a few minor adjustments and will get to it tomorrow with fresh eyes.

 

 

DSC_7235.thumb.jpg.956d13702d6ace0b06d7a613ef61d5c9.jpg

The biggest problem is the very front.  From this angle it looks OK.  But....

 

 

DSC_0005.thumb.jpg.425b5295fcb0bee9e261c4dee01481a4.jpg

You can see up front, there is a 1/16" - 1/8" gap on the passenger's side, and 1/4" on the driver's side.

 

 

DSC_0011.thumb.jpg.83e10675ee4c39dd2a217c517e222c77.jpg

I have all the clip bolts loose, the large nut at the bottom is almost out and the outer fender bolts are loose.

I wish there was some way to just shove that clip over 1/8", but I don't know how.

Also, the lower bolt is supposed to slide "fore and aft" but how, exactly does one accomplish that?  It's buried up inside the front crossmember.

Do you think this discrepancy can be remedied by adjusting the rods under the hood?

 

 

DSC_7257.thumb.jpg.fc1d5bca5f3a2eec1ce3db17bd1fb6e8.jpg

So anyway, here it is all buttoned up.  Looks sharp!

 

 

DSC_7260.thumb.jpg.d21bc8038cacc5a7a59efa7c91f18a27.jpg

A better angle of the hood in position.

 

 

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

Gary, can you spare just a couple of those guys? You’re killing me over here! LOL some extra hands and fingers would sure come in handy with my wood spoke wheels and painting all the details in my hubcaps. My hands and fingers don’t even want to open up after all the sanding I’ve been doing.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now