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New Inner Tubes


32PONTIAC

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Any one use the "new" combo size tubes Coker and Universal are selling?

They say that 18/19 " tubes fit the same that you can use 19" on 18" rms.

installing new tires 5.25/5.50 -18 Lesters tubes they sell are 500/550 -19 center

location metal stem nickel plated Also do you need the bridge washer and retainer

nut they sold me inside the rim ?Installing

them on standard wire wheels.

Any advice or pitfalls appreciated .

Edited by 32PONTIAC
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I would like to comment on tire companies that cater to the hobby, but will not.

 

The entire hobby is getting tired of the cut backs, lack of stock, back orders, and song and dance with huge price increases. I would opine further but it won’t help..........you can only use what you can buy. New suppliers are coming on line..........but unfortunately swapping out Chinese shit tubes for decent stuff is a huge amount of labor......

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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48 minutes ago, edinmass said:

but unfortunately swapping out Chinese shit tubes for decent stuff is a huge amount of labor......

Seems to be a bit coming out of India as well, not sure on the quality

 

My Cadillac when I imported it from the US ironically had Aussie made tyres on it (about 15 miles from where I live) and were made in the 70’s. I doubt that equipment was ever exported so probably just scrapped 

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Hi 32Pontiac,

 I assume your rims have no split rim or tire retaining ring. ? With wire wheels with a side retaining rim you will need flaps between the rim and tube. With straight sides spoked wheels you must fit rim bands to protect your tubes. see below pic.

Rim band For Wire Wheel 18" - 21"

If the tubes you are offered are new and have 18in and 19in stamped on them, then you can  use them in your 18in tires. However if they have 18/19in on them and have been previously used with a 19in tire then do not use them. The same applies to a tube marked 5,50x19, you should not use them, because the tube is too big and will fold inside the tire, this can be lethal as it can cause a blowout.

 As far as the metal stems are concerned, make sure the stem fits the hole in the rim snugly, otherwise you will need to get valve collars as shown below

Pack of 5 Classic Car Tyre Valve Collars

I recommend you look at Blockley, Michelin and Longstone tyres for decent quality tubes, they are expensive, but the cheap ones are of dubious quality.

 A question, are you changing tires because they are old, or because you want whitewalls? 

Regards

Viv.

 

 

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Here you go......tube failed along the seam.......more shit quality, and they answer “thats all we can get”.......well no, if you insist on better quality you will get it......sit there with your thumb up your ass because your too lazy or inept to make them improve their product. The problem is the people selling antique car tires and tubes have zero clue......they don’t own cars, and they don’t drive old cars.........typical pass the buck.

 

Yes.....it’s 105 years old and we bought new tires and tubes because we actually drive the thing........it has wheels, it’s NOT a paper weight. My recent purchase of tires were described as New Old Stock........wonder why? Are they ten years old? Or is it just another excuse to not stand behind the product........I bet it’s both.

 

 

2AF4A14C-E705-43CE-B607-C22A6A77F527.jpeg

835E331B-DB9D-4C74-9C6B-C776C6D43F9D.jpeg

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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On 2/27/2022 at 6:34 PM, 32PONTIAC said:

Any one use the "new" combo size tubes Coker and Universal are selling?

They say that 18/19 " tubes fit the same that you can use 19" on 18" rms.

installing new tires 5.25/5.50 -18 Lesters tubes they sell are 500/550 -19 center

location metal stem nickel plated Also do you need the bridge washer and retainer

nut they sold me inside the rim ? My car had rubber stems when I got it. Installing

them on standard wire wheels.

Any advice or pitfalls appreciated .

Yes. I am installing them right now. I did 2 yesterday and hopefully 2 today on 18" wire wheels. I am using new inner flaps (marked made in USA). Tubes are Michelin, made in Italy). Bought from Coker. I was surprise at how heavy duty they are. Putting them inside new Michelin tires from Universal. Only problem so far is the valve stems want to pull back into the tire while inflating. Have to hold them while inflating. The Michelins are same size but about an inch narrower than the 40 year old Firestone's I'm replacing.

 

Ordered 2 sets of 2 Excelsior tires from Coker initially. They sent me one set and a message the 2nd set were back ordered until at least mid-May. So I ordered 4 Michelins from Universal. I called Coker last Thursday and cancelled the back order and requested to return the 2 already received. They said they'd send me a return voucher...still waiting for it to ship them back.

 

Meanwhile I also ordered another Michelin from Universal to replace the spare.

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My situation is very similar, its a battle to hold the short TR13 stems, and fill the tube, and try to seat a soapy bead.  I put a nut on the valve stem so I can prevent it from drawing back into the rim on my 32 Buick with 600-18 wood wheels.

 

And, I still can't get the inner beads to jump onto the rim.  Inspecting all of my Michelin tires, I can see (and measure) the rubber molded bead taper is nearly square with the bead face on 30% of the bead.  Maybe the factory molds are old and worn?

 

I am not able to properly seat the beads at home, so I need to go to a garage with high CFM and psi to make the bead jump on the rim properly, and be safe and not blow tubes etc. while doing this.

 

I wish the TR127 nickel offset long threaded valve stems were still available for a reasonable lead time (Universal told me maybe in 2023 they will be made)!

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32.......leave the mounted tires in the warm sun.......it will soften the tire and they will jump up.......with a loud bang. I would use 40psi.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Agree with Ed, 35+ years ago when mounting tires I always left them in the sun to soften up , doesn't need a lot of "softening" but it works and has for some time. GREAT ADVICE as always Ed. I confirm what you state. Same advice for breaking down tires that you want to remove that are decades old and hardened from age, put them out in the sun , Most of what I did used 19 or 20 inch lock rings, You need to be very respectful of lock rings, tire irons, and make sure if removing all the air is totally deflated and the bead of the tire on both sides is totally loose  if you don't watch out for flying steel tire irons, can ruin your complexion.

Walt

Edited by Walt G (see edit history)
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10 minutes ago, edinmass said:

32.......leave the mounted tires in the warm sun.......it will soften the tire a d they will jump up.......with a loud bang. I would use 40psi.

Ed,

I know you are probably best to explain this but really, that works?!

I will try it, but I was hoping to drive in the spring April-ish.

What is the approx air temp you had success with, combined with a warm sun?

 

Where I live its going to be cold in the 20s-40s until mid May, warm sun temps are maybe still too cold to soften rubber, but I don't know.

 

My tires are mounted now, at about 35psi.  I cranked up to 50psi to try to seat them, but after a guy I know who died from a truck tire explosion (different than car tires), I don't want to go any further.

 

I should mention these are demountable drop center, no lockrings.

 

20220223_200405.jpg

Edited by 32buick67 (see edit history)
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53 minutes ago, 32buick67 said:

Maybe a hair dryer would be safe and reasonably controllable heat level?


A heated blanket does a good job in the absence of sun. Just make sure you buy the wife a new one before taking the old one to the garage. 
 

As for how much sun it takes, a black tire will get fairly warm to the touch on a sunny 55 degree day. 

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32 Buick......I will pm you, call me tonight after 9 pm eastern.......I’m at Amelia and it’s a bit crazy. My number will be in the pm. Ed.

 

 

PS- after you do a few hundred tires by hand......it gets easier. 😎

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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I have used various valve stem tools to keep the stems from receding into the wheel. They are cheap and effective, and available everywhere.

 

Victor M8839 Monkey Grip Valve Fishing Tire Tool

Slime 4-Way Tire Valve Stem Core Remover Tool

 

With this one, below, you won't need the tubeless stems for your antique car, but the tool will help pull the the tube stem through the hole if it is a tight fit.

Dr.Roc Tire Valve Stem Puller Tools Set –1 x Valve Stem Installer, 10 x Brass and Ozone Resistant EPDM Snap-in Tire Valve Stem with Valve Cores (6 x TR412,4 x TR412), 1 x Valve Core Remover

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Thanks for the recommendations.

I've used some of those in the past, but I need to inflate while holding the stem, so I just picked up metal valve extensions from Oreillys as a temp solution so I can grip with pliers and inflate enough for the tube to push the TR13 stem out far enough to remain in place.

 

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The problem with antique car tires is that there is very little competition.  All the major tire retailers are owned by the same company.  They don't need to make the product better as long as we keep buying the product as it is.      John

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Fifty years ago, I had a cheap bicycle tire pump, had had it for several years. And it broke. It had the usual thread on connector for the valve stem (hard to find these days, but still can be gotten!). The connector and hose were still okay' 

I took a rubber stem valve from a destroyed inner tube, using my pocket knife, carved the rubber off of the lower half of the stem, revealing the brass stem inside. Using a very small hose clamp, I attached the stem into the other end of the tire pump hose.

That silly thing, is today hanging on a nail in my workshop! And is a cherished favorite tool!

I do not need to fumble with valve stems sinking into the uninflated tire. I simply thread the short hose onto the stem, The connector is large enough that it usually prevents the new tube's stem from falling completely inside the rim. With the valve stem in the other end, and core in place, An easy two handed hold the air hose to the old tire pump hose and air goes in. Watch the new tube's valve stem, and guide it if necessary until sufficient pressure is inside the new tube. With the short hose having its own valve and core, I can walk away for a bit if I need to. Fiddle with guiding the new stem into place through the rim. Go back and add more air when ready.

Talk about making the job easier!

 

I also use it to keep my hands and arms out of the danger zone when airing up lock ring rims.

 

I probably should have patented the silly idea fifty years ago?

 

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Here we are. Seam failure in the stem. American made tube. Bent stem is from removal. It was installed correctly. 

3434FFFC-89EC-4CA1-AFAA-EE6D1AF6FDEE.jpeg

76722DB5-3748-4E92-B0F1-877E864D42BB.jpeg

785E7518-C3B5-4D03-889D-4B75F1CEBCC6.png

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20 minutes ago, George K said:

With wood wheels I have used only metal stems with bridging washer and lock nut. Better setup for early rims on wood wheels.


Yup......but you can only buy what is available..........I looked into cutting out the rubber stems and going with early glued in ones.......but decided against it. Try buying a tire from the “classic car tire specialists” they don’t have any inventory or tubes. The money mongers are gonna suffer.....no stock to sell...........unless you drive a modern mustang. 

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4 minutes ago, edinmass said:


Yup......but you can only buy what is available..........I looked into cutting out the rubber stems and going with early glued in ones.......but decided against it. Try buying a tire from the “classic car tire specialists” they don’t have any inventory or tubes. The money mongers are gonna suffer.....no stock to sell...........unless you drive a modern mustang. 

Sad situation. I bought six a year and half ago. With shipping just short of $100 ea.

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As a sidenote:  Tire talc the casing, tube, and flap (Johnson's baby powder will work too) - for tube just put some talc in a garbage bag and shake and for a casing put talc in and roll (makes a mess).  The purpose is to allow the tube some movement in the casing and thus promote longer tube life.

 

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It's not like the tubes were better 35+ years ago.   In 1984 I bought 8 new 550 X 17 tubes & tires from a major antique tire supplier forthe 1984 Great American Race,  (Universal Studios CA to the Indianapolis 500).   They went on a 1934 Ford Tudor.  When inflated, there printed on the tubes in white letters was the warning "not for regular road use".    After readying 2

vehicles for that race, there was no time to find other tubes.

Off to Califunny for the race, we took the 4 extra tubes and plenty of tube patch kits.   We had 10 flat tires in 3000 miles, all from tubes that separted at the seams.  (Probably at least partially due to the extra gas tank and trunk full of parts)   We

were our own roadside Pit Crew and could change or repair flats as fast as the Indy 500 crews. 

The last one was on the grounds of the Indianpolis Motor Speedway.  By that time we were out of spare tubes and patch kits. 

I fixed the last flat with a McDoanld's napkin and tube of Super Glue, hand pumped the tire and entered the Speedway for the checkered flag.   

Entering the Speedway track itself I picked up my entire team and well all finished the Great Race on my tube repair for a lap of the 2.5 mile track.  The Great Race motto "To Finish Is To Win", is very true!

Along the way another team having the same issues we were having gladly accepted our old tubes so they too could finish the race.  We always wondered if they too used McDonalds napkins and Super Glue.

By the 1987 Great American Race, from Main Street in Disneyland to Epcot Center at Disney World, we found that radial tire tubes for motorcycles were the answer.   I still use them now for Glidden & Sentimental Tours, as well as pleasue driving in antique cars.  

 

1081392431_Beforethe87Race.jpg.5f93f30f184327251d0b98b59d9cc4ce.jpg

 

 

Edited by Paul Dobbin
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  • 1 year later...

I just got around to mounting my new tubes and tires on my 1933 Plymouth and realized they sent me the offset tubes.  From what you guys are saying they are Ok to use?  Now that this thread is a year old,  are the offset tubes holding up OK a year later on straight stem rims?   I just got the first one mounted and started to inflate it when I discovered what the offset meant in relation to my rims.    I'll wait to do the others until I get some feedback.  

 

By the way,  the Dewalt portable air compressor 20V has the screw on valve stem end so that's handy for filling these disappearing valve stems. 

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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

What would be the right size motorcycle tube?  Seems like lots of choices.  I forgot to mention the tire size is 5.25/5.50 x 17 inches. 

I used motorcycle tubes in my 33 Plymouth for a few years until one just disintegrated about 60 miles out while coming home from a fairly long distance trip. There was nothing I could find inside the tire that would have caused it. I was lucky that it didn’t happen 100 yards further down the road as the shoulder on that mountain road ended and I would have been stuck on the pavement in traffic while I dealt with it.

 

After talking with the people at one of the antique car tire places who suggested tubes for a larger diameter but smaller cross section tire. So that is what I have in them now. Sorry I don’t recall the size. So far no problems but I have only done low speed local driving since and I am not sure I can trust that setup for longer and higher speed trips.

 

So my experience is that there aren’t good options for tubes for the 5.25/5.50-17 wheels with the non-offset valve stem.

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