viv w

If you take your old sample bearing to a company selling timken or SKF bearings they should be able to measure the old bearings and find a suitable replacement. Those numbers you have are very old numbers and are probably a 3 part bearing. These old type bearings will have been superceded, and replaced by a 2 part taper roller bearing with newer technology. I would recommend you replace both the inner and outer hub bearings on both sides of the car and also the inner grease seals. Viv.

Chrysler75, Hwellens has just given all of us a chart with useful information, the seals that you are seeking are easily made, by cutting 2 strips of cork, 29/32inch wide by 11&7/16 inches long from a sheet of 1/4 inch thick cork. I would recommend using rubberised cork, and when installing these gaskets, use a good quality gasket sealer. Thanks Hwellens for posting the above chart, it will be most useful to me also, when I rebuild my G70 Chrysler next year. Viv.

Try the antique Ford V8 dealers such as C&G parts or Mac's. The 1935-7 Ford convertibles used a frame this size. Viv.

There is a guy selling a series 77 motor with a waterpump listed under parts for sale on this forum. The seller will sell parts seperately.

Hi, These are the pictures of the clum switch I have. Even in daylight the clum number is almost impossible to read, it could be 8821, 8831, 3881 or 8881. Hope these pictures might help. Viv.

Hi, I have really cleaned it tonight, it is very rusty right where it says clum and the number is very hard to read. It could be 3881, the first and third numbers could be either a 3 or an 8 as they are corroded. I have now opened the switch and can confirm the inside is different from the one JimmyS is looking for, so probably will not work. sorry for getting his hopes up. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post them, to see if anyone can positively ID my one, Viv.

Hi JimmyS, I finally found the clum switch I have, lying in my garage. It looks identical to your one, is used, it does turn, has some surface rust and will need stripping and cleaning. The bakelite looks in good shape. The main round part of the body is 1&5/8in diameter, the hole for the rod to go through is approx 1/4in. There are numbers around the body opposite each terminal, these reading from left to right are 1 3 2 4 6 5. I can find no other numbers on the switch. Please let me know if this is the same as yours. If so then PM me your name, email and postal address and I will send you some pictures and get a postal cost to send it to you. Guys in USA and New Zealand have been very good to me in the past and have given me stuff for free, provided I paid the shipping. I am happy to give it to you on the same basis, that once you receive the switch, you will reimburse me my postal costs. Let me know Best regards Viv.

Looks right for a 1929 Essex Challenger

As Kaiser said it looks like the cars mentioned, they were marketed as a Durant in USA and then Star. However because Star was also made in UK, they became a Rugby in the colonies. So if this car was in New Zealand it will most likely be a Rugby.

headlights look later too

Clean that old cruddy paint off your switch, then carefully open the switch by prying up just 2 of the tabs holding it together and just clean it out. They are pretty simple inside. I found a pair of wire cutters work well for prying the tabs up to open these switches and a small hammer to bend them back once finished.

I haven't changed the valves over, so can't help on that one, but, I had a top like yours, that had cracked down the side of where the fuel line screws into the top. I made a steel sleeve that was a nice push on fit, to go on the outside of the cracked part, fitted it on with locktite, and when the fuel pipe fitting was screwed into place, the sleeve stopped the crack from opening. It is still working on the car 35 years later.

As others have said, they are not the most reliable system, but a guy wanting a correct car will buy it. Not sure about 32 and 33 Ford, but pretty sure Ford used them in 1934. I have them in my 35 Ford, 26 Nash and 26 Chrysler G70, they were also used by Auburn in 34 to 36. If you sell it, put some measurements on it to show length, as some gas tanks are deeper than others.

Those hood handles are identical in design to the ones fitted to my 26 Chrysler and 26 Nash, but they come in different sizes. You need to measure the distance from centre to centre of the mounting holes and look carefully on the inside of these handles to see if there is a makers name.

The radiator shape looks more W-K than Overland, but then with the 3 cats, maybe it's a first generation Buick Wildcat 😂