viv w

Never seen it before but you live and learn. Nice work, both of you.👍

Pretty sure the battery box would be the same as shown in my pictures on your brake pipe post, Viv.

Your brake pipes look great Taylormade, but I have never seen brake pipes running along the outside of the frame like this. They are normally on the inside, primarily to protect them from damage from rocks and stones thrown up from the road. Are you sure the pipes should run outside the frame?? Viv.

Hopefully the rest of my pictures. I reached the limit yesterday. . Hope these are of help, click on each picture to enlarge them or save and you can enlarge and study them. Viv

More pictures to follow tomorrow

Hi Leomara, I looked at the pre 1934 parts book today, the model 72 has 4 flexible hoses, one to each wheel, it does not have the same brake set up as Gunsmokes car. The picture above of Maok's is probably the same layout as yours. I have taken a ton of pictures of my late 1926 model G70 frame today and edited it for reference, for when I get around to restoring it shortly. The pipes , clamps etc are exactly as it left the factory. Your car may be the same or very similar, I suggest you look at your frame and compare it to my one. Please note mine is a right hand drive car and I have put notes on the pictures of where I think the left hand drive is different. Your car I think had an electric gas gauge, where mine was a capillary type, so where mine had clips for holding the capillary to the frame, yours probably had the same clips to hold the electrical cable. Hope these pictures help you and maybe others restoring similar cars Viv

Think these below r headlight mounts for 1935 Ford Doesnt look like chrysler again dont think for your chrysler. gear links later V8? rear spare wheel mounting bracket for Ford V8, think its 1936 Ford V8 handbrake linkage Model A Ford. Attaches front top bow to top of windscreen stantion. Ford V8. goes under rear fender to protect tail light wiring 1935/6 motor splash pan, prob Ford V8 Think its a front fender brace 35 V8 Ford ford V8 1935?

These pictures I took for reference of a series G70 remains that I bought for parts in Pa in 2014, sorry some are a bit fuzzy. I'm pretty sure your car will be much the same. If you look closely you will see the type of clips/clamps they used, the gas and brake and tail light wiring. also in the picture is the thin capillary pipe for the king sealy type gas gauge, which your car does not have, however I'm sure that would have been an extra wire to the gas gauge on your car. Above shows gas pipe and 2 tail light wires hanging down Photo above shows a brake T piece bolted thru the X member, the front of the T has a metal pipe to the master cylinder. The 3 or 4 wires and conduit just right of the T piece take the wiring from the light switch at the bottom of the steering column up the firewall and behind the dash. From the front looking backwards, shows the bottom of the steering column light switch All of these pictures are showing the inside of the left side (drivers side) of the frame. I will look tomorrow at my G70 frame and see if I can take more pictures, as i have not stripped the pipes out yet, they are still as it left the factory Viv.

Sad news, but how about doing a virtual Hershey this year, by posting some pictures of the stuff you were taking to Hershey to sell. Some of us cannot afford to travel to Hershey more than a couple of times in our lifetime, but you may have the parts we are looking to buy. Just a thought??

Gunsmoke, If the old sending unit is still there, then check it with an ohm meter to see if it is working. If it works and the cork float is unserviceable, then look for a small brass carb float that will fit thru the opening of your tank, and solder it onto the wire lever. I have done this to my cars, because the modern alcohol fuel has eaten the floats. Narve N, It is unlikely to be due to wrong ohm range. Check your NOS gauge by earthing the side that goes to the sending unit, at the guage. If the gauge still does not work then it is faulty inside and needs to be opened and checked for a stuck needle or worse. If the gauge works by earthing it, then you have either a broken wire to the sending unit or a faulty tank sending unit. The sending units work on resistance and even if the resistance in your new unit is wrong, it should still give you a reading. I had a 54 Chev with 6v electrics that I converted to 12v. I used the 6v tank sender and 6v gauge with no alterations and it worked fine in the 6 years I had the car.

Maok, You have been to great lengths to pull the motor and take the paint off to redo it, so why paint it non original colours? A black engine with a silver or red head is what should be in your car. My 2c worth. I have degreased engines using oven cleaner, it works great for getting the oil out of the cast iron, but make sure you wash it off with plenty of water as it is caustic. I have then used ordinary household enamel or 2K paint on blocks etc with good results. Viv.

Hi, On the gasline, electrical wiring and oil pipes they had clamps/clips like this ----------->> On the small vacuum pipe the clamp was similar to the one below, it wrapped right around the pipe and was back to back where the fastener went thru both parts of the doubled over metal. <<<LIKE THIS CLAMP BUT SMALLER All fasteners holding these clamps, the autovac, brake reservoir etc were slotted, round head machine screws and where nuts were used they were square with a split type lockwasher. Viv.

Hi Leomara, I'm no expert on the model 72 but there are a lot of holes on the firewall that are common to other models I have restored, so I have edited your pictures with what I have seen on other cars and what I think is correct. If anyone else wishes to correct me, I'm happy to learn more. I would disregard the pictures from Hyman, that car has been restored and you can not be sure that it is totally correct, for instance there are 2 holes below the brake reservoir where the motor stabiliser is missing. I have downloaded lots of pictures of Chrysler engine bays over the years, but most have been restored or modified over the years. The picture posted by Sasha correctly shows the oil filter in place, the wiring coming thru the bottom of the cowl, and the brake fluid reservoir with the engine stabiliser fitted directly below it. This stabiliser was common on models 50, 52, 60, 62 and others, it has a flat bar link that bolts to the left rear head stud. The bottom pictures are of an unrestored wreck, although you cannot be sure this has not been altered, it does show where some stuff fits. Viv.

Severe shimy can be caused by a worn steering box, but check first if there is a broken spring in one of the drag link or tierod ends, then get the correct castor and camber of your front axle set up properly, as these can also be your problem. Viv

Hi, It is a 1955 Chevy. It looks like someone has taken a stationwagon or sedan delivery and shortened it. Welcome to the hobby. Viv.