viv w

Leo, The pictures of Tex 49 that were on ebay showed remains remains of a car with no body or rear fenders. Viv

PRICE DROPPED TO $40usd plus the ride. Is no one interested??

Morning all, I don't know if this has been discussed before but I would like to warn owners of right hand drive cars to be very careful when ordering parts for your RHD cars from USA suppliers. To start this discussion:- 1). Model A Ford clutch and brake pedal shaft and bushes are bigger diameter on RHD, the LHD don't work. 2).The Model A accessory brake pedal return spring kit does not work on RHD. 3). LHD headlights and lenses direct the beam the wrong way for cars that are driven in countries where we drive on the left. 4). Be careful of mirrors, particularly those mounted on doors, lots do not have enough adjustment to change the reflective angle to work on RHD cars. 5). exhaust manifolds and pipes are often different and will not interchange, same with some engine blocks. 6). Wiring looms on RHD can be way different to LHD The USA suppliers are very willing to take your money and supply what they have, EVEN when you have specifically asked for parts for RHD cars. Buyer beware!!.

Hi All, I bought a set of guages last year, as I wanted the gas guage and a heat knob for my series 62 and these are the nearest I could find. The rest of the guages and panel are surplus to my requirements and sitting in Canada with my sister. I think the panel is from a 1929 series 65, but you decide. The condition of the guages is unknown and untested and sorry I am 6000 miles away, so cannot ask my sister to check them for you, they are sold as is for parts with no warranty. If you are interested I'm asking $60usd, NOW 40 USD plus the cost of shipping to your location. Payment preferred thru paypal. With the delays in the postal system, where it is taking weeks if not months for stuff to be delivered, I recommend the parts are sent by FEDEX, but we can send by other means at your call. Private message me if you are interested and we can work something out on the shipping charges. Best regards Viv. PRICE REDUCED TO $40 usd plus shipping charges.

Hi Mark, Your work on this car is good and I take my hat off to you. I've built a few earlier Chryslers and the original door panels and rear quarter panels had survived on a couple of them, I was also lucky that the rear seats on one had survived in quite good condition. The door panels were made of a fairly stiff weatherproof type of cardboard and had a flap covering a hole in the top of the doors, the panels were covered in rexine originally and then nailed onto the door frame, the nails were then hidden with hidem welt tacked onto the panel. The flap parts had a piece of 1mm metal plate inside them to help weigh them closed. All 4 doors had these holes on my Models 50, 52, 62 and 70 series. The rear quarter panels were made out of the same type of cardboard with no fancy frames as you have made. Again the card was covered with rexine, padded generously with lots of stuffing either of cotton wool type material or wadding, again these were nailed to the wood frame at the top and the nails again were hidden by hidem welt. There should be a piece of wood 19mm square section going across the very rear wood X piece on your body, this stopped the seat base from going backwards, just behind this piece of wood were 2 hinges that attached the seat back to the floor, this allowed the seat to be screwed down and then it could be hinged backwards and nailed to the rear beltline wood for a permanent fix, again the nails attaching it to the belt line wood were hidden under hidem welt. The front kick panels in the cowl were also made of the same materials and also nailed to the wood frame, the hidem welt went up the front hinge pillars and across the under side of the cowl to hide nails holding the cowl sheet metal to the body wood. I could be wrong but I would think your 29 upholstery would be very similar to these pictures I am enclosing. Your car may not have had this pleated upholstery, maybe someone else may have pictures for you. When I bought my G70 body from Sydney I corresponded with another guy who had bought the remains of this sedan, it may have been a 29 or 30 but these 2 pictures may give you a clue to some of the lower wood work, certainly your car was likely to have had those smaller pieces of wood along the bottom of the rear quarter panels, these again are about 19mm sq and the upholstery was attached to these, hope this info is of help to you. Viv.

Hi Servin, A nice project, and finding parts will keep you busy. Looking at your pictures, going from left to right is , clutch pedal , brake pedal, accelerator rod(missing its pedal), foot rest (to stop your foot bouncing on the accelerator on bumpy roads) and the starter pedal. Your dashpanel I'm pretty sure, has been modified with later guages, look for another dash with correct guages. I recommend you join the Buick club for help with parts and advice and keep searching this forum and ebay for missing parts. This picture below is from a previous post on AACA forums, showing a 1926? Buick dash Good luck with your project. Viv

I recently took the pans off 2 Model A motors, one was used fairly regularly and had half an inch of sludge in the bottom. The other had a rebuilt motor with zero miles but had been standing around in a collision shop workshop for 10 years, that one had about half an inch of mixed sludge with body filler dust inside it. If you don't use an engine often make sure that any breather pipes are taped off, to stop wasps and bugs getting into your motors. Finally, if you read the owners handbooks on a lot of the prewar cars, the manufacturers RECOMMENDED dropping the pan once a year, for a clean out of sludge and dirt. If you haven't done this to your motor in recent years, start planning on doing it soon, you will be shocked at what comes out.

There is a dodge tail light for sale on ebay, item 144075781908

Yes, the front and rear brake backing plates are not interchangeable and right hand and left hand sides may be different too. I'm not familiar with the model 75, but looked in the Chrysler master parts catalogue at brake shoes, there are 4 different part numbers listed, each part number if for 2 shoes needed for a specific wheel. The left front brake shoes have part number 79310, the right front shoes are part number 79311, left rear part number 44589 and right rear part number 44590. The parts book shows this model has cast shoes, so there is a good chance that those numbers are on the shoes. Hope this helps. Viv.

Pretty sure its for a Terraplane, may also be used on Hudson Viv.

Hi Mark, In a recent copy of South Africa's Piston Ring club, one of their members has a series 66 phaeton, also right hand drive, with pictures of the car, its history and this description as follows, " The “66” was Chryslers “Entry Level” Model in 1930 and 66 stood for the top speed in miles per hour!! At this time open cars were falling out of popularity, in favour of Sedans and Coupes. Therefore out of a total production number of 22606 only 26 Phaetons were built in the “66” Series. " The series 66 phaeton was rare when new and I doubt if many have survived. Your one and the South African one, may be the only survivors, lets see if any others pop up. I'm private messaging you with the South African guys details, he is a great guy and I'm sure will be happy to make comms Viv.

Looking good, nice work

Stakeside, I have no idea what is the correct spark plugs for your car, but I do know that the wrong heat range of spark plugs can cause a motor to get overheated in a very short distance. Make sure the plugs you are running are the correct ones. Ignition timing, a lean mixture, cracked inlet manifold , leaking manifold gaskets, can all cause it to overheat.

For what year, make, and model?

Just a word of caution. Antique cooling systems did not run a pressurised system, if you are having the radiator cleaned, make sure the repair shop you take it to know about antique radiators. Vintage radiators should be tested for leaks with no more than about 2 PSI pressure, if they test them using 15 to 20 PSI, as they do with modern radiators, it will most likely destroy the core. Viv.