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viv w

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  • Birthday 05/11/1957

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  1. Yes 34/6 Ford V8 but also used on 35/6 Auburn 6
  2. If you are making new panels, such as door or side panels that have a slightly raised/curved shape then try getting old roof panels from a salvage yard, they will already have the slight "dome" needed without having to roll them in an english wheel.
  3. Looks like a 1930 Dodge DD6. Those hubcaps with the outer wreath and the DB logo in the middle look very familiar.
  4. Your picture with an R on it is a right hand thread, just check the other side of your car and see if they have an L for left hand thread on them. If this is the case then make sure you fit your hubs and lug bolts to the correct side of the car. A friend of mine had a 34 Dodge and during a brake job the hubs got switched, shortly after this we did a wedding, and had to stop every couple of miles to retighten the lug nuts as they kept coming loose.
  5. It helps to post a picture. There are several on Ebay right now for sale
  6. This info is from an ACD club 1973 newsletter.
  7. Pretty sure it is NOT Ford. I have a 35 Ford and it does not have that strange number plate mounting bracket.
  8. I owned a 28 Chrysler 52 touring and drove it many times in the rain. As pointed out the brakes in the wet are awful but do work given enough space. distributor and ignition were never an issue even in torrential rain. With the top up and no side curtains, the amount of rain coming inside was minimal unless you got a really heavy storm with strong cross winds, even the two piece windshield let very little rain thru the join. The only issue driving in the rain is when a vehicle passes you and the spray can come in sideways, not so much a problem for front seat people but those in the back might get a bit wet.
  9. Possibly rear bumper mounting brackets, with option to mount a luggage rack
  10. Looking really good Mark, well done. FYI , I see the spare wheel mounted on its holder, the bracket on the right side that holds the wheel in place has a hole in it, this is to facilitate a padlock to stop theft. The nut that you have holding this in place was originally a threaded casting. Use a small piece of angle iron and drill 2 holes in it, then weld the nut onto the angle iron, you can then thread it in place and put a lock to stop theft, hope this makes sense. Under the fenders and inside the rear wheel arch were to my knowledge painted black. I had a suggestion made to me years ago, paint under the fenders with a bright red or orange paint, then spray with black stonechip primer and a final colour coat. If the stonechip primer or paint gets chipped at any time then hopefully the bright colour will show up easily and make touchups easy to see.
  11. Maybe c1950/2 Riley
  12. The late Arthur Rutherford-Jones reproduced these caps in South Africa around 30 years ago, his copies were so good they were hard to tell from an original.
  13. My 1926 Nash parts book shows these rotary light switches were made by Delco. In 1927 Delco became Delco Remy. Looking at your switch I'm pretty sure that the same company would have supplied Stutz. I ended up with 2 of these switches when looking for one for my 26 Nash advanced six, it turned out one that I had, was for a 26 Studebaker and has been sold to a guy in need. I have later found out that Nash, Studebaker, Buick and Cadillac had these type of switches too, however, they, like clum switches, are not all the same. There are differences in the gears and also the diameter of the shafts can also be of different sizes. I would suggest getting your old one off and measuring the size of the shaft that goes thru the bracket (held with a pinch bolt), measure the gear shaft size and see what numbers are on the gears, this may help in seeing if the switch might be the same as other cars. good luck in your search for a replacement, they are hard to find.
  14. Pipebomb, the pictures of your car appear to be a series 62 which was launched around July 27 as a 28 model. It is important to state the series of your car when looking for parts as Chryslers of this era have lots of changes. Check if your engine number starts with an M prefix and look on the dashboard fedco plate for numbers, this will determine what series your car is from.
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