viv w

Some Chrysler 4 cylinder cars had mechanical brakes only on the rear axle, but this is NOT a 4 cyl Chrysler frame. The 6 Cyl Chryslers as far as I know, ALL had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes. Pretty sure this is not a chrysler frame and that it is most probably Willys Knight from about 1930/2

I used twin pack epoxy glue, as the contact glue we have here just would not stick. afterwards a freind said to me, why not use the black windscreen sealer (called betaseal here) they use to glue windscreens onto modern cars. It probably will glue the running board rubber to the metal pretty permanently and you can move the rubber around while its fresh, so you can line it up nicely, then leave it for 24 hours to set.

The bottom one with 85317 miles is 1935 Ford

Hi Gunsmoke, That steering wheel looks the same as the one on a 1927 Chrysler 50 I restored many years ago. Cant be sure, but it might be the same. Regards Viv.

Hi Guys, I have a 1926 Chrysler G70 basket case project that I want to start rebuilding soon. The remains came to me with original 20 inch buffalo type 4 wire wheels. These wheels are corrugated drive, have 64 spokes with 16 going to the front of the hub and 48 to the rear of the hub, they have a screw on type of centre locking cap. I am still looking for at least one but preferably 3 of these wheels. I am also looking for the rear mounted spare wheel carrier for these type of wheel, mine is missing. Is there anyone out there with a model B70 or G70 fitted with these wheels, that can provide some photo's of this carrier please, so that I know what I am looking for. Perhaps even pictures of a rear mounted carrier on a Model E80 with the buffalo wheels would be helpful. Many thanks regards Viv. Ps, my centre lock caps are identical to the Franklin one shown but had different emblems in the centre. I have also seen Stutz caps exactly the same.

viv, how many spokes in each wheel? JR Hi John, There are 64 spokes total, 16 go to the front of the hub and 48 to the rear. I have 4 wheels (2 rims are rusted out), I have 4 drive hubs with 4 screw on caps identical to the ones Layden B shows above, only one cap has the original Buffalo wire wheel of america centre medallion, the other 3 medallions are missing. I have 2 arms/rods attached to the rear of my chassis frame, these arms/rods are identical to the ones for a rear mounted wooden wheel carrier, but the actual spare wheel carrier that attaches to these arms is missing, so I need that too, but have no idea what it even looks like. Guys thanks for all your inputs, but I seem to have unintentionally hijacked John's original post. John, you were looking for type 4 wheels, but as I originally asked, there are lots of variations, so we need to know what car you have that needs these wheels? If possible the wheel diameter or tire size needed and spoke configuration. It may help us to find what you are looking for. Regards Viv.

Hi Guys, Layden B you are correct, my wheels are corrugated not dental drive. These are some pictures of my wheels, my centre lock nuts look identical to this Franklin one, they are marked on the side with F4L and F4R for left and right hand, and "wire wheel corp of buffalo NY". The Chrysler model G70 came standard with wood wheels but these type 4 buffalo wire wheels were offered as an option, it would appear very few cars came with these wheels, and the only picture I have seen of a model 70 with buffalo wheels appeared in a Chrysler restorers club of south australia magazine, showing a picture of a car in some expedition in the late 20's. . The model E80 imperial came with type 5 wheels and appear to be more common. Regards Viv.

I think they are too thin guage metal to be part of torque tube coupling. They look like an early grease cover used on a front axle backplate. The hub would go thru the large hole and any grease that escaped would go inside these covers instead of onto the brake linings. What type of car ??

John, You need to be more specific as to what type of vehicle the wheels are for. Model T ford used buffalo type 4 wheels but so did other cars. I'm looking for type 4 dental drive wheels for my 1926 Chrysler G70, they are 20 inch with 64 spokes. Been looking for over 10 years, seen a few posts for type 4 stuff on ebay and various sites over the years but none that match mine. Good luck in your search Viv

Hi James, I have worked on 1927-9 Chev's and they all had Jaxon type split rims such as the ones you have pictured. You have to spin the tab as you have done and then pry the split to get one side to start contracting over the other. You will then need a split rim tool, with 3 legs that you use to contract the rim inwards to remove the tire. Be warned even with the tool be very careful of your fingers. With the tool, lots of patience and trial and error and also lots of swearing, you will master changing these tires. Try contacting fillingstation.com or earlychevparts.com for a split rim tool. I would also ask , is your huckster a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder car? My reason for asking is that all Chev's built before 1929 were 4 cyl cars, (with the exception of a V8 in the late teens), then from 1929 onwards they were 6 cyl vehicles. If your car IS 1926 and 4 cyl, then it may have been upgraded to 1929 wheels. Coker tire list a 440 x 21 inch tire for 1926 and 1927. My own experience has shown the 1927 had 440 x 21 tires and 1928 takes a 450 x 21 inch tire. The 1928 split rim is wider than the 1927. The 1929 takes a 450 x 20 tire and by 1930 they had moved to 19 inch. Your old tires are 30 x 5 which is now a 500 x 20, these may have been what was available at the time they were replaced, and should be considered a max size for your rims, I think fitting 600 x 20's will be too big for your rims. Hope this info is useful to you, best regards Viv.

Is the car right hand or left hand drive? as the 2 types are probably different.

I agree with Tinindian, if you only replace the pinion the diff will probably howl. Best to replace both crown and pinion as a matched set, if you can find them. The design of your pinion being in a screw in cage is probably original, Chrysler used this design on early cars and the numbers 10-28 stamped on your pinion would suggest it was made in Oct 1928. Bear in mind 1929 models were launched in July of 1928, so parts stamped Oct 1928 should be correct for your car. I have seen several crown and pinion sets for sale on ebay.com.au in Australia over the last year, but be careful as early Chrysler parts vary a lot in size and design, so check sizes and measurements thoroughly. If I were you, I would clean up your old gears, replace bearings and seals and use what you have with heavy gear oil, minimum EP140 (or better still EP160 if you can find it) and use the car while you look for replacement parts. The mileage most old cars travel the gears will probably work fine. Viv.

Maybe some numbers on the lighting/ignition switch may help to identify the car or give a better idea as to the year

Hi Gunsmoke, nice to see your car progressing. Just a word of caution on sandblasting. I see you had the rear axle blasted as a complete unit, you need to check that the sand has not gone past the seals and into the pinion and axle shaft bearings as the pressure from blasting will destroy the seals and bearings.

Lance, it might help if you tell us what car you have, that needs these parts.