viv w

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Everything posted by viv w

  1. Auburn built a few diesel powered cars in 1935/6
  2. looks like a goose neck shifter for mid thirties Ford V8
  3. Is this the stuff? You can buy it on eBay for $40. Not cheap, and it may be slightly past the "best if used by" date. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Indian-Head-Radiator-Cement-2-oz-Cardboard-Tin-Can-by-Permatex-/133182850332?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 Yes, that was the stuff I used, worked a treat.
  4. I had my 1928 Chrysler radiator cleaned many years ago and it had a pinhole leak around the crankhandle hole that the repair shop tried three times to cure. I needed the car for a 1200 mile run and could not spare the time to take it out again. I had a can of "Indian head radiator sealer, powder" and chucked it in the car and went on the run. It stopped the leak within about 10 miles and never leaked again in the 30 plus years I owned the car, no overheating, no blocked core, no problems. I now have a different problem with a model A that I am restoring for a freind. The rebuild is complete and ready to start, but the engine block has developed 2 small pinhole water leaks, just below the waterpump on the front of the block!! AARGH what to do ?. The rust has corroded through the block from inside. I am going to grind around the holes gently to key the metal and put some plastic steel to close the holes. If I had another can of Indian head, I would chuck it into the cooling system, but have Bars leak and will try that. At least we will be able to use the car whilst we rebuild another motor, but what are the odds of other blocks we rebuild being equally badly rusted. Is there any way of testing how thin the block casting is inside??
  5. Agree with DE SOTO. I do not think the body is Willy's Overland, the firewall design is wrong and the Willy's does not appear to have a cowl vent. Below is a picture of a 1923/5 Overland with the big hole in the firewall for mounting the gas tank Viv
  6. They are brackets that fit inside the cowl to support the windscreen pillars on roadsters and tourers. The side with 2 bolts go thru wood pillars against the firewall. The side with 3 bolts go thru the front door hinge pillar wood and the windscreen pillar bolts thru the large hole. These should fit models 50/52/60 and 62. My model G70 is slightly different Viv.
  7. Hi guys, The 1927 and 28 models 50 and 52 have a single kingpin locking pin (cotter pins), the 1926 model G70 has double locking pins. The kingpins Craig is offering has slots for double locking pins and look like the ones for a G70. The only way to confirm the pins are correct for your car is by comparing measurements. Also Moak, you need to tell what the dimensions are of the lenses you need for your tail light, they vary in size from year to year and in some cases there are differences in models. You may be lucky to pick up individual lenses, but are most likely going to have to buy a complete tail light. I found several complete tail lights at Hershey in 2014, ones with cracked or chipped lenses or incomplete ranged from USD$ 90-140. Good complete ones needing to be restored were USD$275- 450.
  8. viv w

    .Hubcap wanted

    looks like a 35/6 chev rim
  9. Try Jay Astheimer , he is probably at Hershey vending this week. Pm sent.
  10. Hi Larry, Try dfecustoms.com.au in Australia, they have bought out Australian hood irons, have over 500 drawings of top irons and can probably make you a set from the pictures and measurements you have posted. Viv.
  11. I thought the gas tank on 1924 Overland was mounted into a big oval hole in the firewall??
  12. No easy way to restore wood wheels. I would not recomend dipping the complete wheels in a rust remover, as the solution is likely acidic or alkaline based. Sandblasting will clean the rims but may damage the wood. Best way is to strip them. First remove the hub bolts, then support the felloe on 4 wood blocks, then look for a spoke with the taper that is facing the right way to tap down. Start by tapping each alternate spoke firmly down using a block of wood to prevent damage to the spoke. Then tap the remaining six spokes in the same way, working on alternative spokes. You should by now find the hub will have moved up. Keep repeating this process and the hub will work its way up until it can be easily removed. DO NOT LET THE SPOKES FALL INSIDE IN A PILE AT THIS TIME. Next number each spoke from 1 to 12 in a clockwise direction with a tapered punch or number stamps so that you know which spoke belongs where. I usually do this by starting with the valve hole at the top and number 1 in the 1 O' clock position. I also mark the spokes on the back with numbers 1 to 4 and also number the hubs and felloe's as well. If you mark the spokes so that the numbers are behind the hub, then it wont show upon reassembly. Also marking the spokes with a stamped number means you wont sand off the numbers. Now you can sandblast and paint rims and sand and paint the spokes safely. To reassemble fit the spokes into the felloe, put the outside of the hub facing down, now position a couple of bolts thru the spoke holes and thru the hub to align the parts, making sure the outside of the wheel is also facing down, now you will have to push a few spokes down to get the hub started and follow the same procedure of tapping alternate spokes to "walk" the wheel back onto the hub until it is snug against the hub. DO NOT TRY PRESSING THE HUB INTO THE SPOKES, IT IS LIKELY TO CRACK OR BREAK STUCK SPOKES. Once the hub is back in position you can replace the hub bolts, wrench them tight and peen the thread ends to lock them from coming undone. It is best to replace the hub bolts with high grade bolts, do not use mild steel coachbolts for your hubs, they will eventually break. Have fun
  13. I hate to see cars like this being scrapped, parted out or worse still RODDED. It looks pretty complete and in decent shape considering that its 90 years old and it's way too complete to deserve being parted out or rodded. Yes, the cost of restoring it, is probably more than the car is worth right now, but the time will come when you wake up one morning to find there are NO survivors left. Surely it can be mechanically brought back to life and kept as a survivor and one day it's time will come, where it warrants the cost of restoring. I remember being in South Africa some 30 years ago and some guys had just collected the front half of a Model A sedan in similar shape, all the guy wanted was the headlight bar and radiator, so they torched the fenders around the bar, cut the rad mount bolts and cut up the rest to go to landfill. I cringed at what they were doing as guys in Zimbabwe would have given their eye teeth to find stuff that good. Now 30 years on, the restorers in South Africa are crying for those parts. Cars like this in our part of the world have long disappeared and this car would be snapped up in a heartbeat for restoration if it were here. Just remember they don't make these cars anymore, once it's gone, it's gone forever.
  14. Look under the front seat, that is where the side curtains should be stored.
  15. Bill, I see no meaningful info given to you, perhaps your Hupp bolt is similar in style and length to my Nash and Chrysler that both have Delco starters fitted in the same manner. I measured my Chrysler bolt, it is 70mm long total, it has 57mm of threads from the end of the bolt to behind the hex head. It is tapered at the thread end, this taper has to be the same taper as the one drilled into the starter, in order to locate the starter into its proper position. The bolt screws into the housing and is tightened into the tapered hole in the starter motor until reasonably tight, it is then secured with a lock nut. In your case, I would measure the depth of thread, add the depth of the tapered hole, add thickness of your lock nut and perhaps a 1/4 inch extra and make a bolt to fit. Hope this helps. Viv.
  16. It is definitely a 4 cyl Chrysler due to the short length of the hood. The 1926 had 6 lug wheels and drum shape lights, the 1927 and 1928's had 4 lug wheels. The 1927 model 50 had drum shaped lights while the 1928's had bullet shaped lights. So pretty sure this is a 1927 model 50 Chrysler.
  17. Rusty-OToole, they definitely made 2 different RHD manifolds for B70 and G70. I have a RHD 1926 model G70, engine G101050, with the normal style of manifold and battery ignition. As you say, why did Chrysler offer magneto ignition only on some RHD vehicles? Even tho Australia and Africa were pretty remote areas back in the 20's, there would have been areas in other parts of the world that were equally remote but had LHD vehicles. I wonder if Chrysler's historical archives would have any info on the subject? Been looking in the parts manual again tonight, the timing chain cover(and front engine support) also has 4 different part numbers. The numbers changed at certain car serial numbers, but again interestingly the LHD and RHD were differen, why ??. Also looked at frames (chassis) for B & G series cars, there were 14 different part numbers, eek!! That's why if you are looking for parts for early Chrysler cars, you have to look hard, as parts changed during production. It is very challenging restoring these older cars. Just an afterthought, does anyone have an owners handbook showing anything about magneto's. Maybe Chrysler did an export handbook for RHD cars with this option??
  18. The above discussions lead to some interesting thoughts. My first reaction like Crickets, was that the up turned manifold is not Chrysler, but when looking on the nett at images of Chrysler motors, there are several pictures showing this upturned manifold. The rest of the picture appears to be either a B70 or G70 motor. I did a bit of searching in the Chrysler spares book and there were 4 different part numbers for manifolds for B70 and G70, two each for LHD and RHD. I then looked up magneto's, interestingly they were ONLY offered on RHD cars and these were the B70, G70 and 4 cyl models 50 and 52. There is NO mention of magneto's for ANY LHD cars. The 2 pictures showing this upturned manifold I think are both RHD cars. The picture from Vintageben quite clearly shows that the timing chain cover had the option to fit a magneto. The picture from Sasha39 has the same manifold but appears to have a standard battery ignition type timing chain cover. When considering the pictures one has to be confused, vintageben's has a battery distributor ignition, so why does it have a magneto drive? The Sasha39 has no facility for a Mag drive, so why the upturned exhaust? There are several possibilities that parts may have been retro fitted, but I would think that as both cars are RHD (and were built in smaller numbers than the LHD), that Chrysler possibly used up whatever parts were at hand when building these cars. Remember too, that the RHD cars HAD to have different exhaust manifolds to LHD, this was to change the angle of the exhaust pipe to clear the steering column, it then becomes obvious that the upturned manifolds( to clear a magneto,) were used up on battery ignition cars. Some years ago I had a model 52 and a spare model 50 engine.The front timing gear cover on the Model 50 was totally different from the model 52 and it had no facility to fit a distributor. I often wondered whether it may have had a magneto, but in my 30+ years of ownership, I never saw another 4 cyl Chrysler motor like it, I now know why, because only RHD had magneto's and those fitted with a mag must have been rare. Just wish I had photographed it. That motor is now somewhere in India.
  19. Sounds like your clutch has stuck to the flywheel. This was a common occurance with cars parked during ww2. Rolls Royce advised their dealers to remove the inspection cover and spray the clutch liberally with acetone (nail varnish remover), then jack up the back of your car, start the car in gear and with the clutch pedal depressed , apply the brakes. It should free up a stuck clutch.
  20. Very hard to pinpoint exact year of Chrysler, parts from this era vary from car to car. I rebuilt a very original 1927 model 50 that had an all wood steering wheel identical to the one of gunsmokes above, however the advance /retard levers and controls were very different and made of bakelite. My 1928 model 52 had an 4 spoke alloy spider with wood rim steering wheel and my 26 model G70 has also an alloy 4 spoke spider with wood rim. If one researches the Chrysler parts book of the era, you will find frequent changes to part numbers, often on the same model, and numbers were different on RHD and LHD models. Looking at gunsmokes pictures, I would think the all wood wheel one is most likely 1929 and probably Plymouth, the bakelite wheel one is most likely late 29 or even 1930.
  21. It would help if you told us what make ,year and model of vehicle that needs these gears. Viv.
  22. Some Chrysler 4 cylinder cars had mechanical brakes only on the rear axle, but this is NOT a 4 cyl Chrysler frame. The 6 Cyl Chryslers as far as I know, ALL had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes. Pretty sure this is not a chrysler frame and that it is most probably Willys Knight from about 1930/2
  23. I used twin pack epoxy glue, as the contact glue we have here just would not stick. afterwards a freind said to me, why not use the black windscreen sealer (called betaseal here) they use to glue windscreens onto modern cars. It probably will glue the running board rubber to the metal pretty permanently and you can move the rubber around while its fresh, so you can line it up nicely, then leave it for 24 hours to set.
  24. Hi Gunsmoke, That steering wheel looks the same as the one on a 1927 Chrysler 50 I restored many years ago. Cant be sure, but it might be the same. Regards Viv.