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I currently have 5 original radiators, 3 are for 4 cyl cars and two are for 6 cyl. Both the 1927 series G70 6 cyl and my series 62 both have honeycomb radiators . One 4 cyl radiator c1925/6 is honeycomb, the other 2 which I'm pretty sure are 1928 model 52 do not have honeycomb radiators. Back in the 70's when I rebuilt a very original 1927 series 50 and another very original series 52 , neither of these cars were honeycomb. I'm sure Chrysler may have had several suppliers for radiators and this may account for differences.

Hello Dave39MD, You obviously have a long way to go on your 29 Chevy, those wheels you have appear to be from a 28/9 Ford Model A, hope you didnt buy new tyres for them.

Car with a dog on the running board is an Overland whippet

Those pictures are better than a thousand words of explanation and will be of value to other restorers. If yo7u have any pictures of the wood inside a 25/7 Nash advanced 6 tourer, or of the front seat structure in a 25 Chrysler 70 tourer I would be very grateful. My wood work on these cars are long gone and pictures hard to find. Giving the photos to AACA library for them to put into the cars files will benefit future generations.

Locking open cars is a waste of time, even today. The closed cars, such as the 35 Ford sedan, only had a lock on one door, that would block the latch mechanism from operating. The other 3 doors could be locked from a mechanism operated from the inside handle.

I disagree Terry, a lot of cars in the early thirties still had external screws holding them onto the cars. My 1935 Ford phaeton is one such example, and the 35 Ford sedan that I used as a donor car had handles very similar to the one posted. The sedan ones, you could remove the outside screws but not pull the handle off without opening up the door. Looking at the design of the square bar behind the handle , I would think these handles are from closed type bodies and not for open cars. This handle I'm sure will date from the mid thirties.

Maybe aftermarket for Plymouth??

Yes that 1/2 inch hole is there to drain the oil back into the oil pan from the trough, make sure it is clear. Model A Fords work on the same principle. Where your pencil is pointing into the hole, are there any threads, as some motors have a drain tube screwed into the bottom of the rear cap. Also the babbit on that bearing looks a bit crazed and maybe breaking up.

There are 4 different part numbers for Chrysler series 62 master cylinders, 2 are for LHD and 2 are for RHD. It would appear that early series 62 had cylinders that ONLY fitted that model, then later the part number changed and the cylinder would fit the series 72 as well. I don't know what changed, most probably the bore size , but it could be other design changes. If you have the old one put up a picture of it and measure the bore diameter, also look for numbers cast into the cylinder. If your cylinder is missing then look on the dash for the cars serial number, this is in the FEDCO plate, from the fedco number I can tell you the part number your car had originally. Is your car LHD or RHD ?

Yes 34/6 Ford V8 but also used on 35/6 Auburn 6

If you are making new panels, such as door or side panels that have a slightly raised/curved shape then try getting old roof panels from a salvage yard, they will already have the slight "dome" needed without having to roll them in an english wheel.

Looks like a 1930 Dodge DD6. Those hubcaps with the outer wreath and the DB logo in the middle look very familiar.

Your picture with an R on it is a right hand thread, just check the other side of your car and see if they have an L for left hand thread on them. If this is the case then make sure you fit your hubs and lug bolts to the correct side of the car. A friend of mine had a 34 Dodge and during a brake job the hubs got switched, shortly after this we did a wedding, and had to stop every couple of miles to retighten the lug nuts as they kept coming loose.

It helps to post a picture. There are several on Ebay right now for sale

This info is from an ACD club 1973 newsletter.

Pretty sure it is NOT Ford. I have a 35 Ford and it does not have that strange number plate mounting bracket.

I owned a 28 Chrysler 52 touring and drove it many times in the rain. As pointed out the brakes in the wet are awful but do work given enough space. distributor and ignition were never an issue even in torrential rain. With the top up and no side curtains, the amount of rain coming inside was minimal unless you got a really heavy storm with strong cross winds, even the two piece windshield let very little rain thru the join. The only issue driving in the rain is when a vehicle passes you and the spray can come in sideways, not so much a problem for front seat people but those in the back might get a bit wet.

Possibly rear bumper mounting brackets, with option to mount a luggage rack

Looking really good Mark, well done. FYI , I see the spare wheel mounted on its holder, the bracket on the right side that holds the wheel in place has a hole in it, this is to facilitate a padlock to stop theft. The nut that you have holding this in place was originally a threaded casting. Use a small piece of angle iron and drill 2 holes in it, then weld the nut onto the angle iron, you can then thread it in place and put a lock to stop theft, hope this makes sense. Under the fenders and inside the rear wheel arch were to my knowledge painted black. I had a suggestion made to me years ago, paint under the fenders with a bright red or orange paint, then spray with black stonechip primer and a final colour coat. If the stonechip primer or paint gets chipped at any time then hopefully the bright colour will show up easily and make touchups easy to see.

Maybe c1950/2 Riley

The late Arthur Rutherford-Jones reproduced these caps in South Africa around 30 years ago, his copies were so good they were hard to tell from an original.

My 1926 Nash parts book shows these rotary light switches were made by Delco. In 1927 Delco became Delco Remy. Looking at your switch I'm pretty sure that the same company would have supplied Stutz. I ended up with 2 of these switches when looking for one for my 26 Nash advanced six, it turned out one that I had, was for a 26 Studebaker and has been sold to a guy in need. I have later found out that Nash, Studebaker, Buick and Cadillac had these type of switches too, however, they, like clum switches, are not all the same. There are differences in the gears and also the diameter of the shafts can also be of different sizes. I would suggest getting your old one off and measuring the size of the shaft that goes thru the bracket (held with a pinch bolt), measure the gear shaft size and see what numbers are on the gears, this may help in seeing if the switch might be the same as other cars. good luck in your search for a replacement, they are hard to find.

Pipebomb, the pictures of your car appear to be a series 62 which was launched around July 27 as a 28 model. It is important to state the series of your car when looking for parts as Chryslers of this era have lots of changes. Check if your engine number starts with an M prefix and look on the dashboard fedco plate for numbers, this will determine what series your car is from.

I would like to buy 2 please. PM sent.

For what make of car?