drhach Posted September 14, 2023 Share Posted September 14, 2023 That is a long time. It may be time to get the sheriff involved. It's your stuff, they have no right to say that you can't have it back. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted September 16, 2023 Share Posted September 16, 2023 Yep, assume it is a CT shop. BBB, CT dept of consumer protection and/or the CT AG's office are options. I would suggest consulting a local general practice attorney, pay the couple hundred bucks and get him to write the shop a letter advising you are collecting your property. Hopefully you have something, written quote, etc. Over and above a handshake. As much as I want to support any shop willing to work on our old cars, clowns like this guy makes it necessary to protect yourself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Cocuzza Posted September 17, 2023 Share Posted September 17, 2023 I went through and read your entire thread and I have to say one thing: You are a better man than I am what with all of the things that have gone wrong while trying to get this car done. And now having an issue with the machine shop - that would be the last straw for me. I guess you being only in your 30's helps - having that youthful exuberance - something I lost many, many years ago. That exuberance gets replaced with experience which can be a good or a bad thing. If someone gets a 19 or 20 year old all worked up about running into a burning building that exuberance will come through - but try to do the same thing with a 60-70 year old you'll either be laughed at or looked at like you have 2 heads (experience) Keep plugging along - you've come this far !!!!!!👍👍👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted November 14, 2023 Author Share Posted November 14, 2023 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 So many things have happened since the last post. In December I found a 1952 engine to replace the one that was taken by my engine rebuilder. It took 3 days to travel to get it. The engine and transmission were taken from a convertible because the owner’s son “didn't like the lack of horsepower” and “wanted it to drive like a modern car.” So he took the engine and transmission out and put in an LS with a modern transmission. Halfway home the dipstick tore through the plastic and tarp and landed on the side of some highway. Luckily I have one from the rebuilt transmission I had. The new engine came with a 6 volt alternator and electronic ignition. Looking down the cylinders it looks great. It turns over easily with the plugs out and it’s pretty tough to turn with them in so it’s got good compression. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 The lift is installed and the car is in the garage. The grill and hood was taken off and the firewall was painted as well as the frame, at least the areas that the engine will block. Once the engine is in I will require the bad wires and install things little by little. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 (edited) It’s amazing how hard it is to find fine thread bolts around here. I have spent the past 3 days getting the various bolts to mate the transmission and engine. 30 torus bolts, 6 flywheel bolts, and 8 transmission to engine block bolts later and the transmission is mated with the engine again. I had to take the u-joint connection. From the other transmission because this one didn’t have it. Now I have to finish bolting everything back on the engine and I can slide it into the car. It will be much easier that it was the last time now that I have the fenders and radiator out of the way. The car lift will help with adjusting it so it can slide in. Edited May 10 by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Good score on the engine Fleetwood! Looking forward to more reports on your progress getting it all back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Around here (central Texas) the tractor supply stores carry lots of fastners and often have fine thread and metric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 11 Author Share Posted May 11 The engine is in. Unfortunately somewhere along the way I misplaced the cross member that the transmission bolts to. I have on the way. A couple of adjustments and some new wires and fuel line and it will be ready to go. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 I’m almost afraid to ask how the engine rebuild was “resolved.” I was put off by a paint shop for two years, as you say it does sap the motivation. This will be a fantastic car and it’s always good to see a rough one brought back, not just anyone is willing to make the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 11 Author Share Posted May 11 There wasn’t much of a resolution with the engine rebuilder. The last time I heard from him was the beginning of September when he said he would call me back. He has had the engine for 3 years and I haven’t been able to see it since I dropped it off. Luckily I found this one and it is now sitting in the car. The driveshaft is connected to the transmission. Now I need to tweak the position of the engine so it mates with the tail pipes and connect the wires to the ignition and it should fire up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headache on Wheels Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Fleetwood Meadow, I was wondering if you could maybe help me out with a problem. I am working on a 1952 Cadillac Fleetwood 60 special sedan and trying to get information or pictures about the doors and some of the weather stripping. In these pictures I am showing a piece that had some type of weather stripping, window sweep, or something attached but I do not know what it looked like seeing that I did not take this vehicle apart. Unfortunately, the person who took it apart is no longer with us so I have no one to ask about what was there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 It’s just a window sweep. Mine is pretty deteriorated. The factory stapled them in but you can buy new window sweeps and use adhesive to secure them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 (edited) The assembly of the firewall has begun. The horn relay has been painted, the air intake and battery box are installed. Edited May 27 by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 I began rewiring the window circuit. I thought it would be easier than the dash wiring and would ease me into the big project. I’m averaging 3 hours per door right now. The removal of the old wires, installation of the new wire, replacing broken pieces has been a slow process but the front windows are wired. Now I need to connect the rear switches and the front seat cylinder and the window circuit will be complete. Then it’s on to the dash board so the engine can be started. The transmission is all connected so when it starts I could move it if I want to. The new radiator came in today as well. I painted the heater box on the firewall so once the wires are replaced I can put the fenders back on. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Just caught the tail end. Looks like you are moving forward and things are looking great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Great progress, soon you will hear that engine run! Are you making your own harness, or using a pre-made one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 I’m making my own harness. I looked at RI Wire and the cost of the harness(es) for this car is outrageous. The dashboard one alone is $1,400. So for a little time and effort I’m making my own. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 Are you planning to use cloth wrapped wire or vinyl? I considered making my own harness, but I figured after all of the labor and materials cost, it was really cheaper to have someone else do it. Also, I know it's done right and they have the ability weave the proper sheathing around the harness. I'm not above making something for the vinyl but I'm not too versed in the cloth stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 Just because someone else does the job doesn’t always mean it was done right. I am using vinyl wires. I decided to start in the back and work my way front because the dash wiring is a little intimidating. I made the trunk harness which consists of the tail/stop/back up lights, rear defroster, rear radio speaker, and trunk light. The cabin harness will have the rear lights, the center ceiling light, the rear cigar lighters, and rear clock. Then the front harness will have the dash wires and engine bay. I have not decided if I want to make a front clip harness. The reason for the harnesses is for ease of installation. It allows me to keep track of what is where and doesn’t require running all of the wires before wrapping them. With the trunk harness it allows me to wrap them and be done with them. Then when the next harness is done I can plug it in. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 14 minutes ago, Fleetwood Meadow said: Just because someone else does the job doesn’t always mean it was done right. You're absolutely right on that point. For myself, I had to concede that they know way more about this stuff than I ever will, and they probably have a better chance of getting it right than I do; and they can do it for less money. That was just me though. Best of luck on your car, its's coming along nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 On 5/29/2024 at 7:51 PM, Fleetwood Meadow said: I’m making my own harness. I looked at RI Wire and the cost of the harness(es) for this car is outrageous. The dashboard one alone is $1,400. So for a little time and effort I’m making my own. I find making wiring harnesses one of the most enjoyable aspects of restoration. The work is clean, lightweight, and only requires a few good tools. The parts I don't like are the factory connectors that are sometimes not available requiring a work around. Professionally made harness are not cheap, also another good reason I make my own. There are limits though, I wouldn't try it on anything made after the 70's as the wiring gets nuts! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 (edited) I agree with Lahti35. I've completely rewired several cars including a Silver Ghost RR. While it's nowhere near as complicated as this caddy I found it to be quite satisfying. Knowing very little about post-war cars, were they still using cloth covered wire in the 50s? I think meadowbrook deserves a prize for his dedication...his experience with the engine rebuilder is exactly why I decided that I wasn't interested in anything I couldn't fix myself. I've only had a few things done out...generally it's a frustrating experience but I should add that I've also met a few really competent workmen and that was a pleasure. Edited May 31 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Boehm Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 So you are just walking away from your engine at the rebuilder? You are not going to pursue it anymore? Did you pay him any money? I'm not criticizing. It was not the original engine anyway. If you didn't pay the rebuilder anything then you are not out anything. Buying another engine was an option all along. If I were in your position I would at least want to know what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 I took the radio out so I could access the wires for the lights above the radio as well as to have more room to rewire the dash. While it was out I took it apart and cleaned all of the vacuum tubes and moving gears for the selector wonderbar. I had quite a hard time getting the frequency selector to reset back to 550 from 1600, mainly because I didn’t know how it worked. Then it crossed my mind that it was more than likely the same as the clocks; when the selector got to the end of its cycle it would ground out when the metal touched the frame. I couldn’t find anywhere that did that except for this flexible wire at the back of the gears. When it was at 550 it would push it one way to one contact. The spring on it would keep it that way. When it reached 1600 it would push the spring the other way onto another contact. It wasn’t strong enough of a current to push the selector back to 550 so I was stumped. Then I checked the voltage of my test leads and it was only 4 volts. I used jumper cables for the test leads instead and it reset perfectly every time. While I was at it I fixed the dial light so now I have a display light. I thought the paper inside the housing was interesting. I glued it back onto the housing. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 Well, my friends, I think the journey is officially over.. Prior to installing the engine I hooked up the starter and spun the engine. It was tight but it spun. With the spark plugs out of the engine I could turn it over by hand. I installed it and put some oil in the cylinders for some lubrication. As you have seen I have put in about 50 hours of work with the electrical and painting over the past week. Tonight I got the dash to operate when I turned on the key. I turned the key to start the car and it made a groan and that was it. Thinking I didn’t have it wired properly I directly engaged the starter. The solenoid clicked but that was all. I took the starter out and bench tested it. It was weak so I installed the one I had rebuilt for the other engine. It still didn’t turn over so I attempted to turn it by hand with the plugs out. It has seized in place.. I have spent far too much time and money on this car to be in the same spot I was in 2020. I am devastated and lost right now. It’s clear that I am not supposed to drive this car again. It was a struggle and I so badly wanted to prove wrong the people who said I was wasting my time. But it appears they were right.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 I feel your pain. Maybe it's not a catastrophic failure; but hard to say from my chair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 If you squirted oil in the cylinders before you installed the plugs, maybe you just hydro locked it? Pull the plugs and try it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfloro Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 7 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said: Prior to installing the engine I hooked up the starter and spun the engine. It was tight but it spun. With the spark plugs out of the engine I could turn it over by hand. Is it possible that there is binding between the engine and the Hydramatic...? It seems odd that it was free before installation but is locked now... Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbeach Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 (edited) @pfloro, I was thinking the same thing. Had a powerguide installed once in a chevrolet that went from a running car to one that the engine would not turn over. The flex plate was installed wrong and it bound up tight. With the amount of time you have invested in this project, you owe it to yourself to take a few days off, then at least, find the problem. Anyone that has spent time working on old cars has had a similar problem where they want to throw in the towel, so we all feel your pain. Please don't give up. Edited June 15 by kbeach (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rivguy Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Take a break, then look for the problem. I agree that it might be a flex plate or flywheel binding. Especially since you couldn't use the original bolts, maybe something was too long and is hanging up. I was excited to see that you found an engine. I replaced my botched '66 Riv engine with one from a wrecking yard and it ran like a clock for the rest of my ownership. Good luck, and take the break that you need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Many years ago I had a buddy that I rebuilt an engine for. Took about 2 weeks and I was ready to reinstall. I spent about 3 hours trying to get the engine and trans to marry back up. Nothing I tried worked. My dad came out to see where I was in the process. He instructed me that if I tightened up the license plate bolt up the two would marry up. After a heated discussion, I grabbed a screw driver and did what he said. I tossed the screw driver to the workbench and climbed up on the bumped, grabbed the water pump and heard the two marry up. I looked at dad, smiled, and went off to bed for the night. It only took a couple of hours to finish it up the next day. Moral of this story is if things aren’t working out, take a break and then come back with a plan to continue. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 (edited) Thank you everyone for the encouraging words. I needed them badly. Yesterday was a very rough day in my personal life, so finding the engine seized crushed me. I listened to you and checked the cylinders. There was some oil still in 3 of them. I took off the valve covers and removed the bolts to take the heads off. They won’t come off. The rebuilder of this engine liked his gasket maker. They seem to be fused to the engine. I took the bell house cover off and I was able to spin it with my hand on the flywheel. I looked inside the housing and nothing was scratched or gouged. I have no idea what caused it to work. Perhaps it was hydro locked and it freed up. Three questions now arise: 1: When I took off the intake manifold I found this annoying gasket sealer. In the center holes were these pieces of metal connected by sealer to the gasket. What is the purpose of this? Wouldn’t that mess up the air/fuel mixture as well as make the engine run poorly? 2: I tried to spin the engine with the 6 volt starter but it wouldn’t even try to move it. I hooked up a 12 volt battery and it spun it beautifully, so beautifully that it sprayed oil at me. I was thrilled that it did though because it showed the oil pump works. What is the thoughts on why it won’t spin on a fully charged, purchased last week 6 volt battery with 850CCA? 3: What is the thought on gasket sealer with the intake manifold gasket? Edited June 7 by Fleetwood Meadow Added a 3rd question (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 6 volt systems carry twice the amps of a 12 volt system and therefore require much heavier battery and ground cables. I can't see the battery cables in your pictures, but if you're running cables you picked off the display at Napa they are probably too small. You could test by running additional cables parallel to existing and see if if makes any difference. We're pulling for you, don't give up on the old Cadillac. We've all been there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 I was running jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Meadow Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 I was trying to look up what gauge cables it originally came with but I can’t find that info so I was thinking 2/0 would be good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 (edited) The small plates are to block off the heat riser passages. Having the heat riser passages blocked won't effect the drivability of the car once it is warmed up unless you plan on driving it a lot in cold weather. However, it may take a lot longer for the automatic choke to open fully. Blocking off the heat riser passages is done frequently on collector cars that won't be driven in really cold weather. I don't do it, but others do. Are you still using the heat riser valve? As to the starter, are you sure that is actually a 6 volt starter? Or is it maybe a 12 volt starter? As to the RTV all over the intake gaskets, if the gaskets are new and the head and manifold surfaces are clean and smooth, all that mess should not be needed. A Studebaker V8 uses very similar gaskets, and I've never had a problem with them. I do, however, give them a good coat of Copper Coat spray prior to installing them. Edited June 7 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 6 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said: I was running jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter. Yeah that won't work. 4 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said: I was trying to look up what gauge cables it originally came with but I can’t find that info so I was thinking 2/0 would be good Sounds good to me, and your starter will probably work fine. 6 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said: In the center holes were these pieces of metal connected by sealer to the gasket. What is the purpose of this? Wouldn’t that mess up the air/fuel mixture as well as make the engine run poorly? Yes and yes. Good advice in this thread. Take a break. We have all had days like this. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now