Fleetwood Meadow

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About Fleetwood Meadow

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday July 20

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Rhode Island

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  1. I’ve been trying to take Ricardo out now that the windows are in to try to get it moving again. Last night I timed the ignition. It was severely advanced so I brought it back to the C, which is the mark for regular gas. However, I don’t know it today’s 87 octane is the same as 1952’s 87 octane or if this is what they would have considered premium gas with all the new techniques they use with gasoline now. Adjusting the timing did not help the heat issue in the engine. When I stopped after the drive and was letting it idle today the temp gauge was at 1/4 but the upper house was 180, the lower house was 160, and the housing for the thermostat was 220. What temp should that housing be? I’m using a 180 thermostat. The oil light came on whenever I would stop and go away as soon as I pressed the accelerator. The other night I took it out and the oil light didn’t come on at all except when I was slowing down it would turn on just before it downshifted to 1st gear, then it would downshift and the light would go off and stay off. I had great success with cleaning out the coolant system with using Evaporust Thermocure in my Meadowbrook. It used to overheat and after a couple weeks of using that and flushing it didn’t overheat so I’m using it in here now. I can see some rust residue on the inside of the radiator so it doesn’t hurt to try to get rid of that. But from what I’m seeing, I think the sending unit is a 12 volt unit which is causing the reading to be at 1/4 when it’s fully warm. Which of those readings am I suppose to be using for measurement of the coolant? Also what am I suppose to be looking for as a normal temperature reading? The top picture is the Cadillac radiator and the second picture is the Dodge Meadowbrook head after using Thermocure for a couple of weeks.
  2. What size are the cables that the car came with? The cables I have look original
  3. Yes it’s a 6 volt. I’ve been toying with the idea of making the starting system 12 volt and keeping the rest 6 volt with voltage reducers because it cranks so slowly and just as I think the battery is dead it fires. I might get a battery with more cranking amps. Today I started it and let it idle while I worked on getting the vacuum antenna to work. It took about 30 minutes for the oil light to start flickering. But the second I put it in gear the light came on steady. So I had thought that maybe there was a chance the oil pressure was getting better since I’ve been running the car more but that isn’t the case. I did get the antenna working. I wish I could put a video up because a picture of it being up does nothing. Maybe I’ll start putting stuff up on YouTube.. 🤔
  4. The windows are in and they are working beautifully. I took it out today and put the windows up and down a couple times. I gave it its first wash in probably 45 years. Naturally it leaked at the door seals and a tiny drop of water showed up on the inside of the rear window but didn’t leak off of the gasket. It’s got a long way to go before I’m comfortable taking it anywhere (front tires, suspension front and rear, tightening the steering, fixing the vapor locking symptoms, fixing the internal engine issues that cause the low oil pressure when warm and the faint smoke coming from the left tailpipe) but it’s getting there. Starting it is a monster, it cranks so slowly and just as it slows down to where you think it won’t crank anymore it fires up. Its a newly rebuilt starter so I know the starter is not an issue. Overall it was an enjoyable trip. Coming off of a stop sign I floored it and was surprised at being pushed into the seat as it took off. Who would have thought this big boat would act like a sports car with pickup..
  5. How about this hat? it seems like it is the same as the one I originally posted. This is a picture of Milton Hershey. Is this a homburg?
  6. What’s the name of that style of hat?
  7. Although it was a warm day today I decided to tackle the windows. The rubber sweep for the bottom of the windows case in and I was feeling excited about being almost done with the windows finally. I only had the rear windows to do. I turned on an old country song that I love and got the first of the two windows done. So I moved onto the second one and was putting on the track when it slipped off and the window fell forward. It cracked the glass in one crack on one side and two on the other. It wasn’t flimsy or falling apart so I decided to keep going and finish the job. I got one half of the track on and then the track slid and the glass folded in half. Rather than try to keep playing with it I put everything down and walked away. For now, today’s adventures with Ricardo are done. Now I have to order a new piece of glass and wait the week for it to come in.
  8. Before I install the rear window cylinder assemblies I want to take the rear windows out and replace the rubber trim at the bottom of the windows. In order to do that I need to remove the window from the door, pry the metal from the bottom of the window glass and replace the rubber, then reinstall it. But when I lower the door to remove it it gets stopped by the block that connects the cylinder assembly to the door and the metal covers that protect the electrical wires and metal lines. They stop the windows as if they are a stop for the windows right at the bottom of the window opening. There is no wiggle room for me to pry the windows out and I don’t see any screws to move the window channels. Any ideas of how to get them out? If I can’t get them out I will have to disassemble the window and replace the rubber in the door which will be very difficult because you really have to press with a lot of pressure the rubber and metal around the bottom of the door. The first picture is the bottom of the door, the middle picture is the front of the door, and the last picture is the back of the door.
  9. Minus the hydraulic lines, the front windows are back together! I finished coating the inside of the door earlier today and then replaced the old cylinders with the new ones and put them in the doors. I aligned and connected the window glass to the cylinder assembly and wired it. Unfortunately I have the new lines but am still trying to collect the fittings to connect them. It’s hard to imagine but the shops around here only had a limited amount of them and I had to order some online. I had enough to connect the rear ones so I started connecting them and split an old brass connector so I will replace those and by then the parts should be in. I didn’t think before I acted and I blew into the new line to make sure it wasn’t leaking and spat brake fluid into the rear door through the other end of the line. I will be doing that later but when I’m prepared to flush the lines. 😝
  10. The insides of the front doors have been sprayed with rust converter. When it fully dries I will apply the bed liner material then put the cylinder assemblies in, flush the system, then put ATF in it and the windows will be done. Then on to the next fun adventure on that car.
  11. Heading onto the highway. Guy all dressed up and the engine was spitting steam or smoke when he took off.
  12. Matt, the book says to set the timing to “A” for premium and “C” for regular gas. This was back in 1952. With gasoline’s changing to unleaded and the octanes being different, I’m assuming, what is considered premium and what is considered regular gas to this engine? Currently the car has 87 in it. Out of habit I put it in because I remember the octane debate with my ‘51 Meadowbrook on P15-D24 and they said that that engine is a tank and can handle lower octanes without a problem. Anyone can answer that if they know.
  13. Jumping the gun a little, I had a couple minutes to do some body work and for the sake of giggles I painted the bare metal with some black lacquer I had in the garage. I can see why they were mainly painted black. However, when I bought the blue parts car, in the trunk there was quart of some old old paint which matched the car. It is a blue that is very pretty in the sun. Way down the road when I paint the car I’m going to get them to try to match the color.
  14. The issue is that the square part of the cable isn’t grabbing onto the gear housing. It spins inside it which means the cable is too small. It doesn’t make much sense because it’s a standard Hydra-Matic transmission.
  15. The book says 20 weight oil in all seasons except under 32 degrees, then use 10 weight so I was wary of going all the way up to 50 weight oil. That won’t cause an issue inside the engine being so much higher than original?