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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. Ed, not to sound ignorant but how do you know the correct tire pressure when switching from bias to radial tires? For instance, if your pressure should be 28 lbs for the original bias, is it 28 lbs for the radials too?
  2. I ran Thermocure over a period of 1-2 months at a time and then drained and refilled with more Thermocure in my ‘51 Dodge Meadowbrook. I talked about this in my thread called “Summer of Exploration” in the Our Cars section. I didn’t know how to add the link here but I’m sure you can find it. It was in 2018. My car was overheating like crazy and as the days and weeks went on it would start getting cooler and cooler. I had to replace a couple of freeze plugs because as the buildup cleaned away from the walls it revealed some corroded plugs. The inside of that water jacket looks brand new and the brass sleeve was not damaged in any way.
  3. It seems so strange that they are on both of my Cadillacs. To me that makes me think it is a factory part but I haven’t found anything that tells me what it would be used for.
  4. That wire has no spring to it and I can’t figure out what it would be used for unless it is a loop for a shop light for the mechanics when working under the hood.
  5. I have had quite a tough time with my '51 Meadowbrook over this past year. The latest of issues started with a faulty ignition switch; it would shut off if you hit a bump and would have to jiggle the key to get it to gain continuity again. It's a strange one that has three terminals, listed as ST, ACC, AM, and a central wire that is fixed to it under a metal sheathing that goes through the firewall and attaches to the horn relay. The switch I bought was from a '50 Coronet and has four terminals, listed ST, ACC, IGN, BATT. I'm not sure what the AM standards for but it had one wire attached to it. The ST had one wire attached to it. The ACC had the rest of the wires, such as the radio and heater motor, attached to it. So I connected the ST wire to the ST terminal of the new switch, the AM wire the ACC terminal, the set of wires from the ACC in the old switch to the IGN terminal in the new switch, and I ran a wire from the BATT terminal to the outside of the firewall to the horn relay. I did this based on position of the wires on the switch. Well that didn't work as it shot my Ammeter down to -50. So I found that the wire that is attached to the ACC wire had current in it and connected it to the BATT terminal. From there that left the wire on the ST, the wire on the BATT, the wire going to the horn relay on the ACC, and the set of wires on the IGN. I turned the key and the starter turned and turned but would not fire up. I found that the only way it will fire up, and it fires up immediately, is if I turn the key to ON and connect a wire from the IGN to the ST. I can't understand why it will not fire is I turn the to the START position. I also found out that if the engine is running and I turn the key from ON to ACC the engine continues to run. What am I messing up, or is this switch faulty as well? And through my playing with this switch I fried the LED flasher relay so I need to replace it.
  6. No I don’t see one. It isn’t on a spring either so if you pull it down it stays there. If you push it up it stay up.
  7. On my ‘52 Cadillac there is this loop of metal that can move back and forth about 15 degrees. What is it for? What is the purpose of it?
  8. On my ‘52 Cadillac there is this loop of metal that can move back and forth about 15 degrees. What is it for? What is the purpose of it?
  9. Aren’t they part of Laferriere’s collection? He has a collection of cars in a factory down the road from the police station.
  10. Being unable to make the lights any brighter than they were, which probably was right for that car, I converted them to led. I picked a bulb that was about the same brightness for both dim and bright filaments. The led is very distinct on the bright light. You can tell I’m hitting the brake and when the directional is on. And the bonus is that it barely draws on the battery. Since I bought the taillights I bought the front directionals and the flasher. They work beautifully now.
  11. It’s time for me to replace the tires on my cars and the old debate pops up. Which tire size should I get? My ‘51 Dodge Meadowbrook originally had 7.10-15 bias tires on it. The guy I bought it from out 225/75/15 on it. So when I changed them I put them on too. As I’m looking at different conversion charts they are saying 215/75/15 or 225/70/15. Being a little green on tires I’m not sure exactly what makes one tire better or worse than the other. I understand the fundamentals of the tire sizes but not necessarily the functional difference between them. Anyone willing to shed some light and their thoughts on this would be great. Does one provide a better comfort when riding down the road than the other?
  12. I’ve been battling that honing tool all day. I tried using oil like it said to and I wore through a whole stone in 15 minutes. I couldn’t believe it. And it wasn’t even close to round. So I cleaned The cylinder and used another stone and I got it close to my end measurement. I am trying to get to 3.8330”. That puts it .020 over the 3.8125-3.8145” standard bore. I got the top to be within .001” and the bottom to be within .001” but every time I lower one of those spots the middle bores out. The middle is .005” oversized from the rest of the cylinder. That makes, roughly speaking, the top 3.8333”, the middle 3.8338”, and the bottom 3.8333”. It doesn’t make sense based on the tool I’m using. (Lisle 15000) How do I fix that or is that discrepancy within a reasonable difference? The tricky part for me is that I have to convert all of the measurements from the gauge from mm to in. I’m going to have to go out and get an SAE gauge so I will not have to keep converting.
  13. Well I took the engine apart and did my measurements again. Pretty big taper so I bought the Lisle 15000 cylinder hone. I read a lot of stuff about dry honing. This seemed contrary to common belief but I thought alright I’ll try it. Plus the instructions said I could. Got the #6 cylinder back in round and almost got rid of the concaved ridge at the top where it seems the piston rocked. Took the rest of the night off feeling proud of myself. Had my friend come over to see the progress. I was doing great on a new cylinder and then I hit the bottom of the cylinder where the crankshaft sits. It broke the stone. So I replaced them and started again. No idea how the drill got locked because I didn’t have the trigger pulled all the way down since I was trying to keep around 300-400rpm. Well it got locked and hit the bottom again, which stopped the hone, but since it was somehow locked it spun the drill out of my hand. Thank God I had it plugged into my overhead plug because when it hit the ground it unplugged. One of the scariest moments I have experienced in a long time. So I took a break from the honing and measured the cylinder. It was out of round and terribly tapered. Left the garage disgusted. Today I went back out with a finer stone, my final set, and took up at the cylinder again. I got gun shy about hitting the bottom so I was careful. It went great. But when I went to measure it I saw I hadn’t been going to the end of the cylinder. However, I got it back to round and the top of the cylinder is almost dead on the final measurement I was looking for. Assuming I can get all of the cylinders to finish with that measurement I’ll be great. I ordered new 80 grit stones and will try the other cylinders then order finer grit stones. The company that I am ordering the rebuild kit from says to end around 240 grit. I’m going to use an oil to hone it this time because doing it dry I keep dislodging the stones from the backing plate. Lubricating it will help with that. I just need to figure out how to keep the fluid flowing, essentially create a bath system. I’m also going to go from the inside of the engine, where the crankshaft would sit. That way I can extend the hone out the bottom, which is the top at the head, and make sure I see where the stop that I keep hitting is so I can avoid it. Pictures to come with it. If I can get this done right I have a ‘51 Meadowbrook that will show up on here too with an engine rebuild.
  14. Ben, what do you think would be the issue? What am I overlooking?
  15. Ben, I installed standard rings and my compression was at almost 40 and I had blue smoke coming out of the odd bank’s tailpipe.
  16. Using a dial bore gauge I got my measurements for the ‘52 Cadillac. I set it to be within factory standard specs and this is what I came up with. I can see out or round and I can see taper from the measurements. Is that all it was that caused my low compression and oil consumption? I’m assuming I need to bore these to .010 over now. Knowledge me up on this because this part is new to me. T - Top (about an inch down) M - Middle B - Bottom (about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom) H - Measuring rod was horizontal V - Measuring rod was Vertical
  17. Using a dial bore gauge I got my measurements. I set it to be within factory standard specs and this is what I came up with. I can see out or round and I can see taper from the measurements. Is that all it was that caused my low compression and oil consumption? I’m assuming I need to bore these to .010 over now. Knowledge me up on this because this part is new to me. T - Top (about an inch down) M - Middle B - Bottom (about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom) H - Measuring rod was horizontal V - Measuring rod was Vertical
  18. Found a gouge that I didn’t feel comfortable with on that crankshaft so out came the parts car engine. I haven’t taken it apart yet but I know I will need to smooth the metal where the harmonic balancer goes.
  19. I did. There is a hole there. There are 8 holes on the damaged one. I saw online that there are some crankshafts that only have 7. I feel like that would cause that bearing to not get enough oil. I’ll check the casting numbers and make sure this one is acceptable to be used.
  20. Looking at the area where the other oil hole should be doesn’t show an indication that there is a hole covered by anything. I feel like without a hole it will create friction and that will cause the bearing to bind and wear out. The crankshaft I have in the engine now shows holes where every bearing is. This one shows 7 holes for 8 bearings.
  21. I was planning to replace the crankshaft I have in my ‘52 Cadillac and as I started cleaning it I realized that the space for the #8 connecting rod did not have an oil hole. Is that normal since I have never seen a spot for a connecting rod that does not have an oil hole? Won’t that restrict the amount of oil that that bearing gets and therefore burn out that bearing? Or is that an acceptable crankshaft design?
  22. Upon looking at the replacement crankshaft I noticed that where the #8 connecting rod sits there is no oil hole. Why would that section only have 1 hole when all of the others have holes?
  23. I took the engine apart today. The #2 cylinder had a scratch in the bearings. That is shown in the last picture. 4 of the rest looked just fine. The #5 cylinder had scratches in the bearings. #8 was bad, as seen in the first picture. #7 was destroyed. It had spun and been ripped apart. I still have to look to see if the connecting rod is destroyed. I think it will be because the poor crankshaft has been eaten. Wouldn’t the bearings, even if they are a little loose, have the most oil in it because it is right next to the oil pump? So now I have to figure out what I want to do and continue my measurements to see what I need to order for rings, pistons, and bearings. Unfortunately I’m on a budget so a $4-500 crankshaft is not up my alley. The car came with another one in the trunk but I don’t know much about it’s status. The other option is taking it out of the parts car. I haven’t taken that block apart to see what it looks like in there. The oil pan had a lot of sludge in it. And I could feel the chunks in the sludge, from the bearing. Everything else looks pretty great though.
  24. I do have a shop manual. In fact I have 2 of them. One I keep in the garage and the other is in the car. I bought measuring tools to check the cylinders. I find the carbon pattern interesting though. The #1 cylinder was constantly fouled when I would pull it out however the cylinder is incredibly clean. Then the #5 cylinder looks like it’s got tens of thousands of miles on it. The same goes for the #8 cylinder. The first picture is the left bank and the second picture is the right bank. The other thing I don’t understand is on the intake manifold, the middle ports got so hot that it burned off the paint. The third picture shows that. Any ideas why any of these things happened?
  25. Well...... the engine is back out. I haven’t really been keeping up on this journal because there hasn’t been much of an interest in the story but a lot has been happening. I had been taking the car out every night for about an hour to get it functioning again. It was overheating so I had tried to flush it, I tried Thermocure in it. I tried dish soap in it. They didn’t work all that impressively. I retimed the engine to see if that was causing the overheating and it didn’t fix it. While trying to adjust the choke I snapped the rod that connects to that butterfly so I need to find another one of those. I adjusted the fuel mixture and finally started to hear it reacting to each screw turn. I had it out on the highway and it wasn’t bucking like an untamed bronco. And then it happened.... knock knock knock knock. You rev the engine and it got worse. I immediately got it home and shut it off. I pulled the valve covers and everything was fine. I took a scope and looked in the cylinders and everything looked fine. So I started a couple days later and it was gone for about a minute and then it came back. I knew I needed to rebuild the engine anyways so it’s not a huge inconvenience but I wasn’t planning for it to determine when the rebuild was going to get done. So I went through the tedium of removing all the bolts necessary to take the engine out. I thought, since i had already rebuilt some of the areas of the engine I won’t need to rebuild them. But then I thought, now that I have more knowledge on the subject than I did before I should rebuild it all. Taking a flashlight I saw that where the lifters are is filled with sludge. I have to do a little more research to understand where the oil flows but it didn’t look good. I continued to flush the water jacket, this time with a power washer. When I finally broke the drain bolt on the drivers side of the engine mud came out. Power washing it i was watching all sorts of unpleasant things coming out. That would definitely explain the overheating. One whole side of the engine was clogged. My engine stand and measuring tools came in yesterday and today. The engine is on the stand. I drained the oil and let it sit overnight to let the residual oil drain out of it before I crack it open. I know my bearings were the wrong side but I want to check the oil pump to make sure that the pressure relief valve isn’t stuck open. When the car was just started the oil pressure was 24, which is low. When hot and idling it was 5, which is way too low. I think that low oil pressure spun one of my bearings and that is the knocking I’m hearing. I just hope it didn’t do any damage to the crankshaft. Another thing that puzzled me was when I removed the engine the nut that holds the torus together had come undone and was sitting on the shaft. Maybe I don’t understand how the inside of the torus works but I would have thought that if it was open it wouldn’t move the car. I have to tighten that back on and make sure it doesn’t come loose again. You can see where it kept rubbing. Maybe that was the sound I was hearing too.
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