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Tom Boehm

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Everything posted by Tom Boehm

  1. At about $20 - $22 a gallon, Evapo Rust is a little expensive. It will not eat into unrusted steel if you need to soak it for a long time unlike phosphoric acid. I looked at the msds on the website and it did not say it was phosphoric acid. How do you know that? I don't know. I always assumed it was not.
  2. I am a big fan of Evapo Rust. It is a non toxic water based rust remover. It will work good on the light surface rust you describe. The parts must be soaked in a container of Evapo Rust. It has an ingredient to prevent flash rust for a while after treatment. It is best to paint the parts while clean. It is not supposed to remove good paint or plating. My experience is that it will take off paint but not plating. Engine parts that are not to be painted can be sprayed with PB Blaster. I don't think that evaporates like WD-40. I live in the midwest. I had the same problem with parts rusting in storage and the top of my table saw had light rust on it. I went all out to solve the problem. I insulated and finished the walls in my workshop. I got doors and windows that seal better. I got a window air conditioner and a dehumidifier. The portable dehumidifier was the single most effective means to solve the humidity/ rusting problem.
  3. Joe, you mentioned the buyer of your Nash still has it and has not restored it. Has your restoration skills and confidence increased since the 80's? Maybe you can buy it back. Or pass the buyer's name on to Den41buick so he can attempt to buy it.
  4. Nash 600 had an 82 horsepower 6 and the Ambassador had the 112 horsepower 6. Nash, Chevrolet, and Buick had overhead valve engines. Joe, I did not know the wood on the Nash Suburban was not structural. That is interesting. Like a 1949-51 Ford woodie.
  5. Everything I told you about the Nash was probably on the sign. I didn't notice the sign on the floor in the picture.
  6. Hello Den, you are in love with one of the rarest of all production woodies. They were called the Ambassador Suburban. There were 272 made in 1946, 595 made in 1947, and 130 made in 1948. The engine was a 234 cubic inch 112 horsepower straight six. No eight cylinder engine was available. My reference book, Encyclopedia of American Cars From 1930 on, claims only 10-15 survive. Like the Ford/Mercury Sportsman and the Chrysler Town and Country, these were flashy, expensive, low production cars intended to draw attention to the warmed over pre war "new models" these companies were offering. Sportsman and Town & Countries are rare but not as rare as the Ambassador. Restored Sportsman and Town & Countries can sell for over $100,000. Some Town & Countries had plaid interiors and were available in convertible coupe and 4 door sedan body styles. I have a 1940 Lasalle woodie station wagon. I am more taken with the 1940 Cadillac convertible sedan in the background than the Nash. The Nash is cool but if I had a choice....
  7. Both of those are out of stock.
  8. Did you try Ebay? I sometimes find hard to find bolts and screws there in small quantities.
  9. Hello Dudley, do not use a sealant with silicone in it. If it gets where it is not supposed to, varnish will not stick to it. I think you are talking about between the panels and the ash framing. When I had this same question for mine recently I never did get a firm answer. I would suggest regular latex caulk. I guess windshield sealer would work also.
  10. In the first post of this thread, the OP talks about the inevitable failure of an EZ out. Has anyone ever had one of these tools actually work? I haven't.
  11. Awesome! Keep us informed of your progress. The other one turned out so cool. Do you have experience with car restoration? What about woodworking? Looks like yours was outside long enough to ruin the wood for reuse but it is still good enough to reproduce. I had to assemble rotten splinters to reproduce the wood on my Lasalle.
  12. I suppose it is possible to do this on a table saw with a normal carbide tipped blade. It could be done with a tenoning jig. You would have to make a first pass at 90 degrees to get the square bottom between the fingers. Then tilt the blade and make another pass to make one side of the finger. Turn the piece around and make another pass to make the other side of the finger. This is possible but adds another layer of complexity and opportunity for error over using a custom carbide blade with tapered teeth. Again, using shims would give proper spacing.
  13. If you look close at the last graytone picture, the teeth on the sawblade are wedge/triangular shaped. The caption on the picture says it is a custom cutter. 46, I am a woodworker and that seems like an efficient way to do finger joints for just one car. In the picture it seems he has one side of the joint shimmed up the width of one finger. That way when he makes a pass with the radial arm sawhead he is cutting the finger and the receiving slot at the same time/same pass and it is guaranteed to fit. For the next pass, insert a shim the width of a tooth under both sides and make a pass. That way you get a uniform width finger each time without having to adjust the saw. Just stack up premade shims. This method could easily be done on a table saw also. On a table saw you could also do it the way square finger joints are made for boxes with a crosscut sled.
  14. A 10-32 slotted steel fillister head screw is not hard to find. Do a search on ebay and a bunch come up. You can buy small amounts cheap on ebay. Hardware stores and Home Depot probably will not stock that, especially in slotted. On the other hand, if you want the exact screw you will probably have to find someone with a parts car or lock parts for sale. That screw appears to have a taller head than a standard fillister head screw. Compare them and decide for yourself.
  15. The head on that bolt is called a slotted fillister head. That may help in your search.
  16. Craftsman at Lowes are still made in America and I think in your price range. I got one bigger than the one in your picture about a year ago for about $400.00.
  17. I'm interested. I am restoring a woodie station wagon. While I doubt I will ever get an antique wood boat I enjoy reading about them because of my interest in woodworking. If anything is more maintenance intensive than a woodie car it has to be a wood boat.
  18. Hello Dave, I have the usual questions. Did you install the roof fabric? What material was used? This turned out to be one really cool woodie. I like the color combination of dark green and black sheet metal with the ash and mahogany. The no nonsense styling of the Power Wagon and the rugged tires. This truck should be used in an advertisement for camping or hunting gear. The craftsmanship of the wood, top, and upholstery are tops.
  19. You have a good memory Bloo. I posted once before about this car many years ago. No, I have not tried your suggestion. This car is not a priority. The 1940 Lasalle I am restoring gets priority. I got tired of throwing parts at it without success a long time ago. My 22 year old son wants me to get the Dart running. Maybe I should make it a priority so as to encourage his interest in old cars.
  20. Hello Art, Thank you for posting the exact issues you are looking for. That makes it easier to help you. I looked and unfortunately my issues only go back to September of 1997. I was close. Tom Boehm
  21. Hello Turbine Tech, Thanks for your response. I tried that too. I sanded the paint off the inner fender around the bolt holes. I suspect I need to clean off all the grounds in the engine compartment. This car is nearly 50 years old and in original condition, which means it has never been disassembled. Where the battery cables attach to the engine/starter and the jumper between the engine and firewall may be rusty. Matt Harwood, Edinmass and others on this forum often talk about "sorting" restored cars that have set for a while. I think that is what this car needs. There may be more than one thing wrong.
  22. Plymouth. Art deco stylization of the Mayflower ship.
  23. Thank you 35, I replaced the electronic ignition control module a while back. The original one "melted". It did not solved the problem completely. I have heard that the ones available in parts stores now are of questionable quality and may not work. I went on the website Keiser suggested above and they know which ones are good.
  24. This car has always been temperamental. It will turn over but not start. Yes it has the early electronic ignition. I need a diagnostic step by step procedure and testing tools. Over the years it seems I changed the whole ignition system one piece at a time and the carburetor rebuilt. I had the gas tank restored at Gas Tank Renu. My suspicion is no spark and I suspect the ignition switch on the steering column. You twist the key forward to turn the engine over. After it won't start, you let the key go and it sputters a little as if it wants to start. If it does start, it runs fine. I have gotten stranded with this car many times because it won't start again. I also suspect poor quality modern parts for the electronic ignition. Chrysler does not sell the ignition module anymore.
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