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Tom Boehm

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  • Birthday 08/05/1964

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  1. Hello DGB, There are pictures of my car on this forum in the National Woodie Club section, which is close to the bottom of the forum home page. Look for "1940 Lasalle woodie". The original glass lenses are hard to find. They have been reproduced in plastic by McVey's Cadillac. www.mcveys.com.
  2. There is a very small chance those tail lights are from a commercial chassis 39-61, 39-50, 40-50. The appearance of the tail lights are the same but on a CC, the lights mount on the fender therefore the contour is different on the mounting surface. They look the same but it is a different casting and a different part number. The reason I bring this up is I could not find those exact part numbers in my 1935 - 1949 Cadillac parts book. I suggest you post on the Cadillac and Lasalle Club forum so someone with an earlier parts book may verify the numbers. My 1940 Lasalle is a commercial chassis. That is how I know the difference.
  3. Those tail lights are for 1939 Cadillac series 61, 1939 Lasalle, and 1940 Lasalle series 50. They mount on the body and are the same for all body styles. It looks like the red lenses are missing, but FWIW, the lenses for the 1939 cars have one bullseye and the lenses for the 1940 Lasalle has two bullseyes because there is two bulbs in the socket that year. 1940 was the first year for turn signals. Even though they have a difference, the lenses will interchange.
  4. At about $20 - $22 a gallon, Evapo Rust is a little expensive. It will not eat into unrusted steel if you need to soak it for a long time unlike phosphoric acid. I looked at the msds on the website and it did not say it was phosphoric acid. How do you know that? I don't know. I always assumed it was not.
  5. I am a big fan of Evapo Rust. It is a non toxic water based rust remover. It will work good on the light surface rust you describe. The parts must be soaked in a container of Evapo Rust. It has an ingredient to prevent flash rust for a while after treatment. It is best to paint the parts while clean. It is not supposed to remove good paint or plating. My experience is that it will take off paint but not plating. Engine parts that are not to be painted can be sprayed with PB Blaster. I don't think that evaporates like WD-40. I live in the midwest. I had the same problem with parts rusting in storage and the top of my table saw had light rust on it. I went all out to solve the problem. I insulated and finished the walls in my workshop. I got doors and windows that seal better. I got a window air conditioner and a dehumidifier. The portable dehumidifier was the single most effective means to solve the humidity/ rusting problem.
  6. Joe, you mentioned the buyer of your Nash still has it and has not restored it. Has your restoration skills and confidence increased since the 80's? Maybe you can buy it back. Or pass the buyer's name on to Den41buick so he can attempt to buy it.
  7. Nash 600 had an 82 horsepower 6 and the Ambassador had the 112 horsepower 6. Nash, Chevrolet, and Buick had overhead valve engines. Joe, I did not know the wood on the Nash Suburban was not structural. That is interesting. Like a 1949-51 Ford woodie.
  8. Everything I told you about the Nash was probably on the sign. I didn't notice the sign on the floor in the picture.
  9. Hello Den, you are in love with one of the rarest of all production woodies. They were called the Ambassador Suburban. There were 272 made in 1946, 595 made in 1947, and 130 made in 1948. The engine was a 234 cubic inch 112 horsepower straight six. No eight cylinder engine was available. My reference book, Encyclopedia of American Cars From 1930 on, claims only 10-15 survive. Like the Ford/Mercury Sportsman and the Chrysler Town and Country, these were flashy, expensive, low production cars intended to draw attention to the warmed over pre war "new models" these companies were offering. Sportsman and Town & Countries are rare but not as rare as the Ambassador. Restored Sportsman and Town & Countries can sell for over $100,000. Some Town & Countries had plaid interiors and were available in convertible coupe and 4 door sedan body styles. I have a 1940 Lasalle woodie station wagon. I am more taken with the 1940 Cadillac convertible sedan in the background than the Nash. The Nash is cool but if I had a choice....
  10. Both of those are out of stock.
  11. Did you try Ebay? I sometimes find hard to find bolts and screws there in small quantities.
  12. Hello Dudley, do not use a sealant with silicone in it. If it gets where it is not supposed to, varnish will not stick to it. I think you are talking about between the panels and the ash framing. When I had this same question for mine recently I never did get a firm answer. I would suggest regular latex caulk. I guess windshield sealer would work also.
  13. In the first post of this thread, the OP talks about the inevitable failure of an EZ out. Has anyone ever had one of these tools actually work? I haven't.
  14. Awesome! Keep us informed of your progress. The other one turned out so cool. Do you have experience with car restoration? What about woodworking? Looks like yours was outside long enough to ruin the wood for reuse but it is still good enough to reproduce. I had to assemble rotten splinters to reproduce the wood on my Lasalle.
  15. I suppose it is possible to do this on a table saw with a normal carbide tipped blade. It could be done with a tenoning jig. You would have to make a first pass at 90 degrees to get the square bottom between the fingers. Then tilt the blade and make another pass to make one side of the finger. Turn the piece around and make another pass to make the other side of the finger. This is possible but adds another layer of complexity and opportunity for error over using a custom carbide blade with tapered teeth. Again, using shims would give proper spacing.
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