NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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37 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

I am running the 180.  I've also verified with an infrared thermometer, and while I don't remember what it was off the top of my head, it didn't panic me. 

 

I run a 180 as well.    

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For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F .

So with the stock 7# cap it will not boil until 233° F.  A little higher with some coolant.  245° F with the 13# cap used on A/C cars like mine.  On the early nails some detonation will start around 220° F due to higher cylinder head temps.  Boil over can happen at lower temps if there is a hot spot on one of the heads:  no warning before the sick 'chugga-chugga' unstoppable convulsion.:(

 

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Pulled the brakes this weekend.  Rear brakes have more wear than the front.  Did some adjustments,  stopped pulling to the right under hard braking. The concerning part was it was low on fluid and I cant find any evidence of a leak. 

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Pull the dust caps off the wheel cylinders and check for rust or seepage. It might not always be a hose or line, and rusting in the wheel cylinders can gouge the piston cup. 

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Wheel cylinders are all new, and while I didn't pull the dust caps, I saw no signs of any seepage, guess I'll pull the dust caps if I see low fluid level again.

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Could the master cylinder be leaking where it isn't visible?

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So my new trans mount and thrust pad came in.  Should I wait until I get new motor mounts to install these?

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Yes.  Do the engine mounts first, so you know the whole assembly is properly located...

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39 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

What's a good source,  I only see them at Kanter

Fusick best price.

But all are from the same source apparently and the studs that go down into your frame will most likely be too close together.  Just grind the inside of the studs...don't drill your frame.

 

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So, back in the shop and the brake pedal feels normal again.  No leaks in any lines or wheel cylinders,  fluid level in the master cylinder is where it was.....   what the heck?

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It could have been an air bubble that finally found your vented cap. If you played with the fittings, it could have had a micro leak until the flare fittings were heated and expanded under normal use. I had one fitting that I just could not get right and it stopped leaking on its own after cruising the neighborhood. 

 

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On 8/9/2018 at 6:22 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

So, back in the shop and the brake pedal feels normal again.  No leaks in any lines or wheel cylinders,  fluid level in the master cylinder is where it was.....   what the heck?

Keep an eye on it... 'stress test' by holding pressure on the pedal for a minute or more to see if it drops; if it does then you will have a fresh enough leak to see easily.

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So unfortunately riding out the storm of Florence I did not get to use the Buick until yesterday. Jumped in it to go for a ride and nothing not a click not a turn nothing. The battery was fine so I just jumped from the terminal block over to the starter solenoid and she kicked right up and ran. I guess this weekend I will be evaluating whether my carburetor switch or my starter relay are malfunctioning.

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The carburetor switch is pretty bulletproof, but is occasionally susceptible to dirt bypassing the filter. Its the easier of the two to check, just put a test light on the ground side and see if the light turns on when the pedal is depressed. Same can be done with the starter relay. Also double check the ballast resistor, too. If it's original, it could be toast.

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Oh, yeah sorry had to re check the wiring diagram. Its still early for me 

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My method to troubleshoot (correction/additions welcome)

With the key on, jump across the carb switch terminals:  (careful, those wires are NOT fuse protected and if grounded will instantly fry your harness!)

---car starts:  clean switch

---car does not start:  next test

With key on jump 12v+ to the black wire on the starter relay:

--car starts:  solenoid and starter are ok (problem is associated with the starter relay)

---car does not start:  starter and/or solenoid defective

Remove the green wire from the starter relay and ground that terminal and try to start normally:

---car starts:  defect in generator or grounding of generator (jump the yellow wire on the back side of the voltage regulator  to battery negative and test again with green wire connected)

---car does not start:  starter relay defective

 

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Relays came in today.... that didn't fix the problem but in my anger sitting in the car stomping on the pedal and tithing the key back and forth... it appears there is a loose wire or dirty connection or something in the key switch itself...

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