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KAD36

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KAD36 last won the day on July 16 2016

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About KAD36

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/26/1963

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  • Gender:
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  • Location:
    Binghamton NY USA
  • Interests:
    Anything with pre 70s and mid 80s cars, working on the Buick, carpentry, model railroading, RC cars and drones

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  1. My thought is the U shaped piece on the hood that contacts the L bracket on the firewall can provide additional electrical ground to the hood to attenuate ignition noise to the radio. It just rests on that L bracket - theres a shiny wear mark on mine where they contact. Maybe a cleaner connection than through the hinges. Just a W.A.G.
  2. Went through this on both a 55 and a 56. The arrow above is the correct side where the heat chamber is. If you stand at the passenger fender facing the passenger bank of the engine, the port that the carbs heat pipe plugs into is almost directly behind the leftmost (nearest the firewall) bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Now - assuming all the passenger side 56 manifold designs are the same for this feature, just feel around the back left side of the manifold and you should feel a small pipe about 1/8-1/4 inch sticking out. I believe the heat passage is fully cas
  3. X2. Where did the factory evaporator go? Observations on that eBay unit - 1) evaporator works on cooling fresh air in only, no recirculation for very hot days, 2) efficiency impact from engine compartment heat warming the evaporator inside that metal ductwork with only undercoating for insulation. More insulation recommended 3) single factory defroster fan cfm ( non AC factory fan) likely insufficient to cool whole car on very hot day (55 model) While mounting the evaporator in that air duct is pretty innovative, if it can be leveraged for 57 consider the observations
  4. Be sure to read @KAD36's stories from the original rebuild as well as the 'Take-2' follow-up below. My takeaway is that even if proper procedures and techniques are followed, parts availability can be challenging and selecting the wrong parts, or even reusing what appear to be serviceable used parts can have significant consequences regarding the ultimate success of the rebuild. Been away for a bit..... My situation, with the rod nut shearing at each facet after 5000+miles, was a corner point failure. These aren't racing engines turning high rpms. It was an expensiv
  5. Thank you for checking out the thread. Happy to help with any "brainstorming" and lessons learned. So you'll have 2 evaporators - one front one rear?
  6. I recently cut open a wix filter and the element did its job and the paper had good integrity. Its housing is metal, the cork seals compliant. No issues with them FWIW
  7. Nice job persevering and getting the engine out. My finding was that load leveler made things easier when removing/installing solo. Hopefully you won't get a lot of practice at this with the same engine unless you are upgrading. I get sore just watching you crawl around that car. 😀
  8. Turned out to be a fan spacer that came with the new (used) pulleys that enabled running 2 belts on the AC compressor. It was enough to cause the outer dual water pump pulley and fan assembly to have a hum to it around 1900-2300 rpm in N. I replaced it with a machined aluminum one. That dramatically reduced it. There is still a slight vibration somewhere but it is negligible and you have to know it's there to look for it. Rather than drive myself crazy to find it there's a small rust out on the rear quarter that looks more obvious to fix. The new motor mounts were also pretty st
  9. The Northeast auto museum? That place is great - easily fill an afternoon. Meet midway? Yep. Can do. Maybe Cortland or call the ball on pm with whatever works for you. Heat works - just putzed with the capillary tube location today. 👍
  10. OMG! You brought back many "towed array" memories. I did actually make a quasi-fish bone chart but left the probability calculations to the next guy.... Was reading some of your posts. Glad to see Goldie is running well - was just in your neck of the woods the other day. Will give you a shout next time.
  11. Thanks Matt. And you rattled my brain to go find my measurements: Part number ARP 125-6001 on left. OEM factory 1 time use bolt on right. Mentioned the usage as am not sure if it stretched although note it was the nut not the bolt that failed which folks have told me a bolt is more typical. Dimension A1 was milled to match dimension A2 of .388". Press fit into the reconditioned rod. Don't press it in as is- it's too much of an interference fit. ARP DOES NOT list bolts for a Buick 322 at the time of this research last fall. This was closes
  12. Here is some info courtesy of Buick.net. Helped me figure out what Matts 56 engine was. NAILHEAD Codes 'til '56 The engine serial number is stamped on a machined surface on the top outer edge of the left cylinder bank, between the middle branches of the exhaust manifold. The last digit of the engine serial number is 4 for Series 40, 5 for Series 50, 6 for Series 60, 7 for Series 70. According to some sources, a 100 suffix is used for the Series 100 Skylark of 1954. A stamped 1/4" long dash after the production code number indicates a .010" O.S. production engine. It is no
  13. Lots of experience in the club to help you any time there's questions. Have used some of your thread for my own references. Thank you for the extra work to do that.
  14. Remember to include the high compression gaskets this time and that dreaded 19 inch clutch fan that doesn't work in Texas.....that's the big thing in the front. 😀 Yeah I've been too much of a candy a## to put anything less than 93 octane in it to start with. Timing is at 7.5 deg. I did put the later vac advance spring in it but haven't driven it yet since that mod. The old 55 distributor is on for now because its trusted and wanted to reduce variables if a problem arose. The 56 one needs to be gone through. I also have one from a 59 364 that's supposed to have a bet
  15. Been away for awhile and took a needed break from the hobby Remember this? 1955 322 Rebuild Last July with 5200 miles on the clock, at 65 mph on I81 N about 20 miles from home she let loose with a bang. No prior warning, no noises or knocking or ticking or smoke, no instrumentation indications, no metal in oil. Engine was always quiet and smooth. About 3 seconds of clatter and that was it. Worst thing about this is there was no smoking gun for a root cause, just circumstancial evidence. The best some machinists could tell was that a connecting rod nut sp
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