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KAD36 last won the day on July 16 2016

KAD36 had the most liked content!

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About KAD36

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/26/1963

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  • Gender:
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  • Location:
    Binghamton NY USA
  • Interests:
    Anything with pre 70s and mid 80s cars, working on the Buick, carpentry, model railroading, RC cars and drones

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  1. Been off the board for a bit Matt. Very sorry to see this and very glad you're ok. Know the feeling. Hope things go fairly and you can salvage as much as possible. Looks like a tough repair if you go that route. Document all the work you did. Every little bit helps. Keep us posted and if we can help
  2. Recognizing it is off the OPs original topic but related (and not wanting to start another long thread when info exists) my finding is that the NAPA brake shoes work well in stopping the car. Search forum to collect other opinions from existing threads.
  3. Going through that now after 18 years and observed same price ranges. Picked the one in the middle and used shoes and hydraulic hoses front and rear from local NAPA.
  4. 1,012 miles Jeepers, better get crackin.... Rebuilding the brake system - may be a little while. Color sanded and Buffed out the hood (my paint is so freakin tired), refit the whole exhaust system (not used to the 56 ball and socket joint design and it shifted and developed a rattle when over 70 mph since install), new rear shock links (replacing 1983 parts). Improved all the door weatherstrip seals with some EPDM bead material from HW store until it goes for repaint and correct new door & ws seal goes in Happy to report ran the car through the 95-98 deg heat past few weeks w no issues. Temps stayed 220 or below ( measured temp w ir gun shot at sender with needle at end of the safe bar on the gauge) with the HD radiator and 19 inch fan 13 lb cap with AC on. Checked the gun and thermometers w boiling water/ice as a sanity check. Temp was at interstate speeds with traffic, up couple mile hills and through town. Stop and go traffic after highway run it got a little warmer, maybe 5 deg but kept it in N vs D while stopped and worked fine.The aftermarket AC temp cycled mid 40s to 50 at the center vent depending on engine speed. Cabin went from 135 in hot sun soak stabilizing down to about 75 on max fan. That's as low as it would get in the sun. Tinted windshield (that's after brakes) might help a little more. Not take no headliner off - is what it is. Been running non ethanol gas and have had no vapor lock issues. Have not had to use electric pump in heat. However it's hard starting (long cranking) cold after sitting more than 2 days even if electric pump primes it. Overnight, no issue. Weird beans. Ethanol gas = quick cold start with approx 15 second electric pump prime + vapor lock when hot. Volatility effect?
  5. Paul - what he said ^ For what it's worth my 55 has been on the road for 35 years and there are still minor bugs that crop up to chase - a new rattle or squeak on an interstate expansion joint where the car was rattle free, a heater switch that gets flaky, a Ranco valve that gets stuck. Right now am replacing all the wheel cylinders, a master cylinder kit, stop light switch, brake shoes and hoses. Could have sworn I just did that not too long ago and looked in my record book and Holy Christmas it was 18 years ago. Whoops. It took me about 10 years to undo all the poor man fixes my grandfather did to keep this "stock" car going on his budget (like packing concrete and window screen around a cracked exhaust manifild - hey it worked but what a PITA to get apart), and get it reliable - although in the early 80s it was my only ride for 4 years, year round, and I just kept up with things and learned. It wasn't until I rebuilt all the suspension components, steering, brakes that the car felt road solid; the accessories (fuel pump, regulator, water pump, radiator, generator) that it became more reliable, some budget to carry spare parts, and more recently after radial tires, transmission, engine rebuilds and adding AC the car really became relaxing and rather spirited to drive. Life got in the way as they say causing my incremental restoration but the car has been licensed and in service every year since April of 83. Rebuilding things for the second or third time over the vehicles life gets easier and quicker. You have a nice cruiser with a mix of newer parts. It is absolutely solvable. You will get it up the power curve. Recommend going through a list of needs and wants, get a budgetary planning number together for yearly financials to help gauge what commitment you want to put into it to avoid potential discouragement. Helped me. You have some good advice to get a professional "eyes on target" assessment and make sure it's safe. You'll make it your tasteful own and you'll keep finding "stuff" along the way - that happens - if you're handy that's where we can help. The folks on this forum really are a deep bench of accurate knowledge and innovation - keep 'em rolling.
  6. I installed the weatherstrip that goes between the door window and rear quarter window. What a pain in the butt Beemon - how did you get the old seals out of the quarter window frame and what did you use to facilitate getting the new ones in? Have heard to try that juice electricians use to facilitate pulling house wiring. Any advice? Car looks great. I remember the excitement of new paint and taking pics of the car back in my college days. Enjoy! And x2 on a good fender cover. Hold off that first scratch as long as possible.
  7. Coincidentally, my underseat heater motor just started acting up - it was running fine on high and then it quit while the switch was still on. Procrastinated and whined about pulling the new upholstered seat out and tearing the motor apart, debated getting a new motor as mentioned above, ended up smacking it lightly with a BFH and it started working again. Imagine that. Will see how long it lasts but so far is humming right along. Why was the underseat heater blower being used in June? Because I like to keep everything in the car "moving", and wouldn't you know the Ranco valve just got stuck open, and I had just replaced that 7 years ago. Was hoping the bellows wasn't shot like the original. Pulled it out and flushed hot water through it and got some crud out. Worked the plunger back and forth, let the seal and shaft sit overnight with silicone spray in it. Ran cold and hot water on the capillary and verified the water flow through the valve started and stopped. BTW - if anyones interested the 56 product school manual has a good section on capillary tube placement.
  8. x2 - oil the hinges. The drivers side rear of mine gets lazy and I have to push it down after the pin clicks. A few squirts and work it in and its fine again. Happens about every other year.
  9. 425 miles total so far. Tailpipe started rattling. Always something ? 85 out here today. Everything else working well. That ethanol free go go juice significantly reduced electric pump use. Only used it once during hard acceleration on I81 uphill entrance ramp.
  10. The manufacturers technician went through my "desirements" and schematic at a trade show, which was similar to some other customers requests. The AC evaporator core has a heater core integrated into it. The core can act as a heater or cooler - one or the other- but not designed to blend both. Since both coolant (heater) and refrigerant coils are within the same core it is possible to plumb it so both refrigerant and coolant are flowing at the same time ( if trying to blow warm dry air). As I think as you pointed out that's a no no - the compressor would run forever as the evaporator thermal switch would never get cold enough to kick the compressor off.. Other climate control type hvac systems that allow air blending have a heater core separate and downstream from the evaporator core as you suggested, but those systems were larger and harder to achieve a low profile fit. The heater plumbing isn't connected in this install - the factory heat is retained undisturbed as are the functional defroster dash and heat controls. Wiith the compressor turned off, the evaporator fan on, and the stock heater on, the evaporator fan suction can pull in 100 deg heater air which is discharged near the fans intake and then is routed to the defroster or dash ducts. It's similar to the fan pulling in stagnant 100 deg cabin air or outside hot air which goes over the evaporator. The unit sees cooler conditions than it would if the heater function were connected and 180 deg coolant was going through the coils (while the ac is off.). Not hooking up the heater coils ensures a leaky ranco valve doesn't dilute the cooling effectiveness. Have had no issues. Hope this helps clarify - let us know if we missed something.
  11. (New Radiator + New Fan) x (Get the biggest that fits) = (Fixed my 55 Buick AC Cooling Problem) Q.E.D. A+ and a doggie treat. Class dismissed. ?
  12. Motorad #2006-180. High flow, stainless, has the little valve to prevent air pockets. Same as a duralast #15478 for autozone fans.
  13. Back to the pump question - heres the impeller. This is my spare unit - just back from Flying Dutchmans - same as whats on the car now. Am assuming this is stock configuration. An observation - they did the "set the impeller close to the timing chain cover" trick on the first pump (on car now) and it made no noticeable difference in cooling with the std radiator. The radiator density made the most consistent and significant improvement, fan next.