KAD36

Thinking tap the chrome bezel at top of switch counterclockwise, might have to hold the bottom of the switch. Can’t recall if it’s keyed to stop it from spinning.

Excellent - hope to see it in action someday. Nice when they're not clicking clackin huh. Keep on rockin!

The same tolerance stack problem is true of voltage regulators, ballast resistors, ignition coils, inner and outer valve springs, pistons, plug wires, and ignition rotor impedances. All solvable. Measure your parts. Just sayin….

Both 56 pushrods and lifters were put in both the 55 and 56 engines after going the route of trying to clean the OEM 55 lifters. The car had sat in my grandparents shed for probably 10-15 years with only occasional starts. After trying to clean 5 of them, called it quits, getting mixed results. I used Clevites and had stocked up in the late 90s on a couple sets. I put a new set of lifters on the old cam on the first 55 engine cleanup - guess that’s a no no but got about 60K miles out of it no issues. Then rebuilt the 55 with new lifters new cam, then rebuilt the 56 and put new lifters on the original 56 cam after checking the cam against specs. The cams were not ground nor cleaned up before putting the lifters on. My shade tree assumption was the 322 valve spring pressure was relatively low it wasn’t going to be a high revving engine and if I put an average of 3-3500 miles on it a year I’d be statistically dead just before it hit 100K and figured it should last that long. A purist with proper shop skills shouldn’t mix new and used parts, but given my “use case” I ran with it. Maybe I just got lucky. Rockauto has Melling and Sealed Power lifters listed for 56. They fit a wide variety of cars. Rotella or other diesel oil was mostly used when the 56 lifters-pushrods were put on the 55 cam. On both the rebuilds Castrol or Quaker State Dino oil and a few ounces of ZDDP are used.

+1 on lifters. Either clean up the 56 cam or consider the 401 profile with turned down bearings. Measure/dial in the 56 cam and see how it looks. In the Engine Rebuild 2 link from the forum in your PMs there is a picture of the 56/cam card for the specs. I can find and repost if needed. Having had a widely available aftermarket “Frankencam” with no data available for its specs in my first rebuild and fighting resulting spring bind issues, it did run ok and idled nice but the 56 cam is more fun - having driven 2 rebuilt engines back to back. My backup plan was a brand new cam cut for a 401, which folks over on the HAMB have tried and liked the results. Update: found 56 cam specs courtesy of @Beemon

My belief is that piece you are holding provides a ground path for electrical shielding purposes from the firewall to the hood instead of relying on the hinges and latch to ground the hood. Less electrical interfaces and no oil/grease to increase resistance. It contacts a bracket on the firewall. Mine is original and unpainted. That’s just a guess from staring at it with a beer wondering the same thing. For many years. Not consecutively.

No way my hood ever fit that good from the factory to the cowl - looks great. Don’t touch it. Write down what you did. If that twist question was to me, twist meant loosening the hinges on both the door and at the post one set at a time and rotating the door counterclockwise about its horizontal axis to try to tuck the bottom of the door in closer to the rocker top and line up with the contour of the quarter panel. Even with floor jacks and a little woonden brace to avoid sag. On the driver side the choice was align to the windshield post (vent window post to windshield post flush as airflow goes over those surfaces) or align to the rear quarter panel contour or split the difference. The passenger side seems it could only be made worse if trying to improve it but I don’t like the fit to the windshield post. I did pin the hinges on the driver side for when the door comes off for painting so it goes back where it is. I spent days after days fiddling with it, then gave it a break for a month with the interior panels off then fiddled with it again. Currently it opens and closes easily with one (strong) finger (thumb), the flipper works reliably, the window rolls up and down easily without binding, the outside button and inside handle both actuate the lock release easily, the door stays closed over bumps so people stay in and water stays out. Not messin with it. Just dont look at the bottom. The passenger side, just don’t look at the top.

The reference point being the cowl and I swear mine is crooked from driver to passenger side and the car has never been hit nor have the doors and passenger fender or hood hinges been off. It seems to sit slightly higher and farther back on one side. Seeing many 55s with Emtee that day and knowing exactly where to look supports the best average fit statement. Unless metal or filler is added. The other place is the rear third of the door along the bottom edge is a little proud of the rocker. It seems the door needs more arc to sit flush along the top of the rocker but it sits flush to the quarter panel. Wrestling with the driver door - in/out twist and lift - made some improvement but it’s not perfect. The passenger side is better but as a consequence does not come close to fitting up flush or in line against the windshield frame.

oh… So you DID try it with the Camaro lol

A wheel cover will definitely come off a ‘78 Delta 88 Royale. Just sayin. In comments to that link above one person apparently nailed it after much practice with his fathers Buick.

Watched the same shows. Outer limits and original Star Trek were also great. Probably why today curse of oak island and skinwalker ranch are two of my favorites. Dig holes, hunt metal, shoot rockets, look perplexed.. 10 years of Tuesday nights I’ll never get back. Also never successfully executed a Rockford spin on dry pavement with my dad’s Olds but remember the attempts.

Episode Mirror Image: Picture if you will, another 67 Riviera. Gold. Road wheels. Black Interior. Pristine dash and gauges. The clock works. NY Plates. Air Conditioning. With a trunk full of brand new R12 refrigerant canisters enough to last a lifetime. Closing Narrative: Obscure and metaphysical explanation to cover a phenomenon. Call it parallel planes or just incredibly lucky. Whatever it is, you’ll find it in the twilight zone. They just don’t make shows like that any more. They were absolutely brilliant.

Coincidentally mine had 5K on it when it detonated. Viva LaPoof 💥 🤣 Getting the popcorn, finding a good spot up in the cheap seats and looking forward to root cause and repair!

Glad you found it and nothing detonated. Out of curiosity how had the oil pressure been?

Definitely a positive experience and would sign up again. Thanks for all the think through, prep work and willingness to teach us noobs.