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KAD36

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Everything posted by KAD36

  1. Yep. From my experience first to last - 1);More force at the tab from adjusting, 2) tilting the wing window division “inward”, 3) tilting rear quarter window and rear of door glass “inward”. 4) adjusting striker to close door tighter. 5) adjust hinges to tip door inward. All while making sure the window doesn’t bind during raising and lowering or it’s back to (1). This is worthy of your starting a new career. The blue tape over the gaps between A pillar chrome, flipper and division channel is a good idea and have tried it to help isolate. I’ve reduced mine but it’s still loud white noise at highway speeds but not whistling. The gaps on the driver side are all close and trim surfaces flush after much adjustment and weatherstrip, and it’s got wind noise. The passenger adjustment is as it came from factory and is all misaligned and is very quiet. Go figure. Opening wing window helps. I gave up for now until next time needing some project to frustrate me. If you have a 54 Fischer body manual it talks about adding putty/weatherstrip in the upper corner of the body to address wind noise. I can dig up my copy unless someone has it handy. https://www.hometownbuick.com/1955-buick-body/ 55 product service bulletins addresses wind noise on the 54/55 hardtops. https://www.hometownbuick.com/1956-buick-body-maintenance/ 56 product service bulletins discuss keeping gaps to 1/16 and adding some putty. Rattles - 90% of the HT window rattles were resolved through much trial and error adjustments in door closure, small hidden pieces of Velcro felt, how high until the window stops and all bumpers in place, and the softer ride of radial tires Not all my window fuzzies have been replaced btw. Good luck and good hunting - will be riding off your coattails.
  2. Oh, you’re talking about ringing out the unconnected yellow wires…check the vac hose routing, think that unconnected one goes to the vac pump and wiper motor. Paint looks good on the engine.
  3. The ignition ballast is on the passenger side. You pretty sure it’s hooked up to the blower motor? The blower on the firewall is defroster/heater, one speed no resistor, the under seat dedicated heater is two speed blower with the resistor is in the switch which can go bad btw. Which blower is it going to? Have not seen what you described before and can’t recall a reference in the service manual schematic. Schematic reference - Pink wire from ignition to resistor, yellow from resistor/coil to fender mounted junction block/starter solenoid unless the wirings been modified/disturbed then all bets are off. Maybe the ballast was rigged to compensate for a defective 2 speed switch?
  4. Wow real barn finds! Let’s see…..my car has been driven and being “running restored” for over 40 years since I was in college and shoved it out of my grandparents shed….you have lots of runway left in you to finish🤣. Go in eyes open, this will not be cheap. Twer me I’d figure out how to redo the Roadmaster, convertible top of the line model, you seen what others have started with and with common sense, skill and perseverance what beautiful cars they have now. Some blunt pointers would be 1) won’t be quick if you’re doing it yourself, plan for at least 10 years and define up front what your definition of “done” is (the old think with the end in mind trick) 2) set a final budget with reserve, plan for yearly installments and price increases 3) systematically decompose the project into sizable subsystem “chunks” you can get some quick victories on and keep commitment through thick and thin to maintain steady progress. 4) Life will get in the way - keep people a priority. Nice find and good luck with your decision! PS - read @Bhigdog restoration thread if you’ve not already done so - both for inspiration and approach to executing the project
  5. From prior research on a similar problem some say the new springs don’t work as well as the stock ones and also heard that they work fine if the mechanism is true and hinge clean, and others have reported the Chevy Olds and Buick hardtops used the same springs, but personally have no direct experience. I was looking at Danchuk a number of years ago when mine acted up and quit closing fully. I tried bending the spring and screwed it up making everything absolutely worse. I had a spare flipper set and used that spring plus throughly cleaned the hinge area and the pivots. I think it’d be worth a try since it’s only 1 spring and the rest of yours are originals. FWIW this bookmark helped when for readjusting the window divisions to get them to close better https://www.eastcoastchevy.com/X6tech/tech_flipper.html The plastic sleeve that goes over the metal tab gets brittle and is unobtainable near as I can tell and makes a difference in closure. Using a Velcro fuzzy piece is a workaround if it disintegrates.
  6. Some additional points - how the magnet sits in the drum can be adjusted, the drums pivot point pressure needs careful attention to avoid “stiction”, and if you need to increase spring tension slightly I’ve had good luck slipping a piece of hollow wire insulation over the end of the coil spring that is bent and rests against the stop tab to provide a little more wind up. In fact, have used strips of masking tape on the piece of insulation to change the spring tension by very small incremental amounts. Having gone from L78 15 bias plys for 25+ years (bigger tire and it still read high and the gear is correct) to 225 radials, can attest to those induced differences per Willie’s experience. Sharing the above parameters for awareness as they also can be used to improve accuracy, not sure what a real speedometer shop would adjust, but you can trial and error dial it in pretty darn close from my shade tree experience. On a bench I ran it until the odometer was reading a mile a minute then tried to dial in 60 mph as my initial starting point, then adjusted from there at some different set points and finally fine tuned in the car. Did not try for 100 mph as a set point - just sayin. Perhaps changes in the magnet strength and spring over time are different so it’s difficult to balance it out any more, who knows, would be nice if there were new ones. Good luck and thanks for the updates.
  7. Good job - The redliner speedometer always fascinated me since a kid. How did you approach adjusting the accuracy? Or perhaps it was good and didn’t need any? Have had to fiddle with mine numerous times - it reads about 0-5 high depending on how the spring constant changes over temperature or so it appears. Used to be almost 10 high. Seems like I have to keep chasing it down as it weakens.
  8. ^—- +1. Dopey question - has the speedometer end of the cable been observed being turned by the transmission before you connect it to the head? And if so, if you put a very little bit of tension on it while the car is wheels up in both D and R with needle nose pliers or holding it with a paper towel or newspaper does it hold tension and still rotate? And with the core aligned and fully seated into the transmission gear does it look like a reasonable amount of core left to align and fully seat into the speedometer head? Do not hold the core with a cotton towel to see if the transmission gear will apply some tension on the cables core unless you have patience and a good set of tweezers. Ask me how I know….
  9. Just registered on line. Arriving Thursday mid afternoon, joining up with EmTee in Binghamton in the morning, about a 5.5 hour trip. Got a couple minor things to check over including the spare parts stash.. Been running well.
  10. Think mine is 5 because I couldn’t find a 2. Was not one of my better moments. It’s been quite a few years. At least the clock doesn’t leak. 😁
  11. Needs nearly 12 to trigger the rewind. All my original fuses have been replaced with new ones having had similar experiences to the above. Sounds like you isolated it.
  12. If you have a replacement radiator core is it the “high density” 3 row one? I had replaced mine years ago with the “standard” core and it always ran hot. As a reference the HD one has not overheated but it will run 200 (N on my gauge) to 210 if stuck in traffic after a long highway run. I put it in N or L if that happens. It runs 190-200 at 70mph on a 90 deg day. Still have the HD clutch 6 blade high pitch fan. My timing is set at 8. @JohnD1956 convinced me to seal up all the gaps around the radiator shroud to ensure all air is going across the radiator and AC condenser, which has also helped out more than initially expected. Definitions - Overheated in context to my post above is the radiator blows fluid. Running hot is above the “safe” range line on my gauge which ends at about 220-225. Temp is measured with heat gun (verified NTE 3 degrees accuracy) at the sender in the head. Hope that helps.
  13. Good insight, had not thought of it in a “response” context. Would you lean toward the voltage or current control lagging? I have set troublesome ones up sorta almost from scratch, that’s why my preference is the screw adjusters. Had a helluva time over and under adjusting the bending tab newer ones for an improvement disproportionate to the time spent putzing with it. I’ve not gotten any newer ones that work as well as the dried up original that came off the car. Whats the typical high end regulated voltage when cold? I fiddled with tabs on a newer one to get some level of charge and about 13.8 volts hot (because at 200 deg engine it was not charging when a load was on - but would charge as it cooled off - I think the temp compensation was off as compared to the original) After adjusting it for hot operation it ran up to 16.7 volts cold and I was hesitant to turn any lights on. Apologize for the hijack Chris.
  14. Yes sir they are. I do have the Delco publication for regulator specifications and adjustment procedures. Perhaps the voltage or cutout relays needed a tweak? It’s just one of those things that should take 20 minutes and 4 hours later you’re way into it more than expected, pretty soon the #2 yellow pencil is out, paper and parts and tools everywhere ….stopped way short of that before it absorbed my day 🤪
  15. Was going through spare regulators in the garage the other day because somehow I own 5 yet only have 1 car, but one of them has similar problem. It’s an NOS Delco PN1118839E, which appears to be a 30 amp unit but not sure what E signifies. Have had it awhile, swapped it in and ammeter bounces about 1/4 inch all around 0, voltage at battery fluctuates 13.3-14.8, independent of idle speed and electrical load. Ran points file over contacts 1 stroke then thin cardboard with cleaner between them - no luck. Maybe bad ground? Stuck the old aftermarket one back in for now and it’s pretty solid, typical slight jitters around 0, 14.7 at battery. I’d like to get it right because it has the screw adjusters on it, vs the newer tab type which if anyone has ever tried are a PITA to adjust and my finding is the temperature compensation for charging especially at hot isn’t very consistent. Curious what you find out.
  16. Same - made it for bleeding boat trailer brakes that had similar master cylinder with a plastic screw cap and it works great on the car. Was less cumbersome than using vacuum pump at each wheel. Think I only put 10 psi in the tank.
  17. Glad great news that’s you’re just about back on the road with a hood on the car, those annoying “little things” sure seem to crop after a big job but you got the critical part 100% as expected. Wish I would have used your approach doing the steering gear! and…lookit that extra room on those shelves and the nooks and cranny’s on the floor for more parts….and is that one of those “custom bend on site for a perfect fit” tailpipes up in the rafters 😁 Great write up and tips as always!
  18. Since everything is going swimmingly and the engine went in with time to spare, what will you be drinking around with next? 😆. An hour…that’s hustlin’….not your first rodeo huh 👍 😎. Good to hear it’s going well.
  19. Remember to tighten the radiator cap… unlike one of your rookie students 🙄 Great job as always. Thanks for the play by play. Looking forward to light off.
  20. Interesting, how do the other motors provision for the arc sweep control. Am riding on your coat tails because I might still want to put a system like this on mine someday. It helps me be more successful at procrastinating re-paint #2 and bodywork. Am also wondering if the 55 RM switch and motor are a 1 year only thing.
  21. 2am, last call, bars closing….put it into production and we’ll figure it out and write it up later. That’s my story and am sticking to it. Am beginning to think your vac motor is not quite right for the year. Can’t understand the pump. The large diameter vac hose at the switch should simply port vacuum to the suction side of the pump when the button is pressed. One hose should have suction all the time and the switch seals it when the button isn’t pressed. Press the button and vac is introduced into the second hose. That suction pulls the diaphragm up in the air chamber against the large spring while pulling fluid up in the lower fluid chamber for as long as button is pressed or until the piston goes full stroke up against the spring. Release the button and the spring pushes the diagram assembly back down and out comes water pushed by spring force through the lower chamber and seal. Do not overfill the jar such that liquid enters the air chamber where the plastic assembly is split. If you put raw vacuum into the pump you should hear that big spring making sounds as it is compressed inside the plastic canister. Am maintaining the small hoses have to do with arc sweep. Only the Bowen cable adjusts base wiper speed, augmented by the upper lever if needed. At least that’s how I believe it (the wiper control) works. The washer is supposed to be as simple as dirt until the coordinator showed up, then it got tricky. A number of years ago mine had a vacuum leak at the switch from a corroded internal washer button from overfilling the jar in a past life so I feel your pain in trying to figure it out.
  22. Here’s a related link from a past discussion. Your 2 smaller diameter hoses are likely the arc control. The 70 series switch looks like it had 4 hoses in 55 based on this earlier post. The standard wiper motors without the extra sweep don’t have that cylindrical part on them. Fire it up see what happens.
  23. Does the hose to it go into the wiper switch, maybe that assembly somehow modifies the sweep arc…..
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