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Everything posted by KAD36

  1. It appears like the chrome actuator ring is assembled wrong.. I’m not understanding how it was on working beforehand. If assembled right it can’t just pop off. In brief, the plastic black center cap gets pried off the ring. Then there is a retainer that unscrews from the chrome actuator ring. I believe, from memory, that retainer gets held on the shaft by one of the washers already assembled to the column in your first photo. When the chrome ring is on the wheel, you insert that threaded retainer into the chrome ring and tighten it down against the spring. The more you tighten it the less travel to actuate the horn. Then that black cap snaps on top. When pressing the ring you are closing the circuit to ground. Try searching the forum? Someone had a similar problem a few months ago and we posted assembly and exploded installation diagrams of the contact ring spring and insulators, unless someone has it handy. If I can find it quick I’ll post it. The drawing may have been in addition to what was in the service manual. Update. Search forum 1955 Buick horn ring. QED.
  2. Had a metallic green Schwinn Sting Ray with the “5 speed stick” and a rear slick pie crust tires, sissy bars and the banana seat. Likewise I mowed alot of lawns and put up alot of fences to pay for it.. I always thought that bike and my Schwinn Continental 10 speed were special but Dad threw them both out when I moved out. Isn’t it something how “ordinary” things of “the time” stick with us even years later. … but this is about Buicks. Nice dual exhaust on that Centiry Mud 🤣
  3. I know better than to contradict my 55 Buick mentor but I have to go look at a drawing and refresh my WCFB understanding. Always learning something new here. 😎👍
  4. Out of curiosity how long does it take after the problem happens for it to be able to refire and keep running. And in the time of running it up to the time of stopping and idling it in the driveway what’s the engines behavior like - normal, sluggish, missing….
  5. Base gasket at WCFB carb to manifold has given me unexpected trouble, and as EmTee said I had actually tuned around it never hearing or suspecting the leak to begin with and it’s certainly easy enough to spray the base and hear the idle go up.. it eventually came around and screwed up the idle when I fixed other things. The washer control was the next unsuspecting leak. The wiper motor and vac advance not so much. My recollection is you put the new electric pump as well as mechanical pump on - it sure sounds like a fuel problem being temperature related. Just as in going through 3 coils in a year before getting one that worked, I’ve gone through electric pumps in a year unexpectedly. When you get the problem to happen on demand ( let it idle in the driveway in D after a short run until it dies and won’t refire) you can check down the carb for fuel from the accelerator pump or check for spark while hot. When the engine is preferably cold you can check the electric pump. When my electric pump went it still would agitate the fuel in the glass filter bowl which gave me a false positive but found afterward it produced negligible pressure. The other hint was flipping the pump on and off - if it got hot at idle and started to stumble there was no difference in idle quality. And if it croaked I could get it to refire on a quick shot of starting fluid only for about 5 seconds. If you’re vapor locking at hot idle there’s no electric pump to make the save if it lacks flow and pressure. Are the fuel filters clear? Just asking - that would also be an all the time thing. If it’s not fuel it might be weak spark at idle which FWIW was another of my issues and actually depended on the under hood temperature and if the hood was open or closed. Closed it would eventually die. Open it would idle in D all day. Had a number of contributing factors - coil intermittent, ballast resistance too high, regulator regulating too low - all at hot fine at cold. Condensers can do this too, you can do a static test with a DVM but that’s only a rough indicator of a condensers health. If you can find the old delco ones personally I’ve had better luck with those. Will need some testing to substantiate which to look for unless you want to shotgun it. Take your pick which to start with, my bet would be fuel delivery if it’s temperature dependent, but first get a method down to replicate it, then change one thing at a time. Just my 2.5 cents, curious to hear what other folks on the team come up with.
  6. Welcome and congrats on the ‘34.
  7. Thank goodness glad to hear it. Hope you get to root cause. Will be following. Assume all the connecting rod hardware was replaced - not that that’s a potential cause but you’d avoid relearning my mistake.
  8. Feel your pain on this one Pete. How did the block fare?
  9. Only guy that made 2 full systems, a 55 and 56, for my car that fit perfectly. And a real Y pipe with no crimped down restrictions where the L/R sides meet, although I specified that and it came out perfect too.
  10. The bench depth of this forum team is beyond impressive, has kept my projects out of the ditch more than once. Would be great to catch up sometime, it appears a short hop. Maybe consider joining some of us at the Northeast Car Museum next time we go, EMTee and JD1956 aren’t too far up the road and Machine Gun even made the trek. Let us know how the project goes, and would also be curious what you choose for pistons when that time comes. I was able to find Beemons Cam Card for the stock 56 cam for reference if interested.
  11. That’s good to hear and sounds like a reasonable approach. If you want to get fancy in the future, there are folks on the HAMB forum who took a 401 cam and turned down the journals to fit the 322 and said they liked the results. Although I am not sure how many folks would try that experiment and say they hated it if it didn’t work. Not being an expert, but I have used and “dialed in” a cam from Centerville on my first full rebuild because the specs were not published and I wanted to know what I was buying. I did all the math more than once and had my final calculations and measurement process independently “peer reviewed” at the machine shop to make sure I got it right after admittedly making some errors first time through. It was different than the factory profile (apples to apples measurement methods from then to now) and had the same “blank” part number stamping as a current 401 stock replacement cam which suggested they all start with the same blank and mill their specific profiles on the blanks from there. That being said, the Centerville cam worked ok, it idled very smooth, which is what most folks want in their stock restorations, less remarkable change in drivability than I expected and I verified all other component measurements prior to install (although Old Tank got a ride and thought it pulled fairly well). The Centerville lobe separation angle (LSA) was wider and lift and duration higher than stock. If I had not been able to find a good 56 stock cam for my second rebuild that 401 cam profile was my next choice to try. I rather like sound of the idle of the stock 56 cam which has a narrower LSA and “by the numbers” pulls the torque curve in earlier, lowered vacuum and slightly roughened the idle. My second rebuilt motor pulls from a stop better and gets to 70 more effortlessly than my first rebuild when you don’t want to diddle around. The cam is probably one of the contributors to the 1956 PSBs indicating that lower engine vac at idle (16 in Hg) compared to prior models should be considered normal. I believe the difference in LSA was 114 deg on the Centerville cam to 110 or 111 stock 56 cam going off memory although understand all cam measurements need to work in harmony to achieve a good operating point. Beemon kindly published the 56 322 cam specs somewhere on here while going through a similar exercise. The car will run fine with the Centerville cam and hope you report back what you think after the swap. Careful putting it in so you don’t nick the cam bearings in the engine. If you want to get more fancy pants, put in a set of 1.6:1 ratio rockers from a 401 for more lift, they will work (proven by demonstration) with the Centerville cam, but would advise doing the required math for other cam profiles to avoid valve spring bind or interference. Bottom line - any aftermarket cam you get have awareness of the cam profile and consider it’s ability to make low end torque as close to off idle as possible if mated to a Dynaflow, especially a non switch pitch Dynaflow, unless you expect to do a lot of higher rpm spirited driving. Also factory valve springs will tolerate higher lift of a generic aftermarket cam but some aftermarket springs will not, so get the spring bind specs and do some basic math. That’s what my project taught me so passing it on - YMMV. Lots of articles out there advising what parameters work best for low end torque if you really want to get into it. Or…go with Option 2: slap in vendor X replacement cam using good shop practices, fire it up and enjoy the ride. 😎
  12. When you do your full rebuild definitely replace cam lifters pushrods cam bearings and have the machine shop fit the bearings to the cam. And you have some choices on cams. The 56 stock cam if you can get one is great, most aftermarket cams are a “blended” profile to work across all years of 322s. My input on swapping the lifters/pushrods only for now was just an interim option if you wanted to address it, just to clarify. Often the full engine rebuilds don’t start or finish on schedule.
  13. Progressive spring is a good input. That’s on my next time list.
  14. I’ve swapped the 56 lifters and pushrods into a 55 with stock cam to quiet down stuck lifters from shed sitting and drove it probably 20,000 miles (over 10 years) with no issues until a bigger headache was desired and chose a full rebuild to provide that. They also had visible wear pattern and some galling. Obviously if going the 56 route you have to swap all 16 of both pushrods and lifters as they are a matched length. Are you looking to swap only the worn lifters, and is it more economical to do that? If you are looking for advice on wear some pictures might help get opinions. What are your concerns with leaving it alone for 3-5K miles if the engine is being replaced in the near future? The swap is typically not recommended for high mileage longevity but depending how you use the car you can get away with it. When I pulled mine apart years later there was no visible wear and I would have run it another 20. Use good quality motor oil. Do your research on additives or not. I’ll avoid that discussion, thank you. It’s like the radial tire question. 🤣. Good luck with the project
  15. Your car looks great. Little late with advice but I did something very similar to you quite a few tears ago because that met budget before a rebuild was affordable. Had driven the car for 20+ years after sitting for probably 15. Somewhere on here I have a thread from 2006… Basically the lifters and pushrods were replaced with 56 parts because the lifters had been really noisy. This is after I tried rebuilding them and running detergent with limited success. I was not concerned about mating new lifters to an old cam because it was only running 1500-2500 miles/year, and had no issues for my purposes. The motor was finally quiet and ran fantastic. I also replaced the rocker arm shafts and select rockers arms that were badly worn, maybe half of them or less. No need to adjust lash with hydraulic lifters. I didn’t worry about lifter preloads or valve stem heights I just put it all back together. Later when rebuilding the engine I used adjustable pushrods and got all the valve stem height, preloads, and rest of the valve train geometry right. The oil pan was dropped and the sludge shoveled out after the topside was done and plastic sheet was used to avoid dropping any gunk or debris into the lower end. Drilled the spot welds out and cleaned the breather in the valley cover. New gaskets and decals. Have fun matching up the paint. At the time CARS had a perfect factory match. I bought the same paint years later and it was different. Bill Hirsch is supposed to be bulletproof paint FWIW. No need to remove water crossover if not leaking. Consider addressing the fuel pump as recommended for its age, that is for preventative maintenance. If you have vacuum wipers hook up the vacuum line from the fuel pump so the wipers work more consistently as manifold vacuum varies under load. Follow JDs advice on the water pump bolts. There are 2 or 3 that are smaller diameter than the rest and they take time and patience to get out, plus they are drilled into the water passage. If you do ever need to take them out replace with stainless and permatex #2 on threads. Consider replacing the points, cap, rotor and condenser after 30 years unless they are not pitted or worn upon inspection and dwell is in spec. Your call. Update: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/casting_numbers_nailhead.php. <- Look here for engine block manifold, and head casting numbers for your year the casting numbers should match year of production. The carb if a Carter should be a 2347 on the tag. You’ll have to hunt down the Rochester number unless someone has it handy. Good luck with the project.
  16. Coil Spring Specialties in St Mary’s KS on all 4 corners of mine for 20 years.. Will replicate factory springs or give you something custom if you’d like. Ride height is perfect, happy with results. Good luck in your decision.
  17. Steele was most accurate fit for the “around the door” and vent window seals for my application, although I have not glued mine on yet until I paint the door jambs but noted that compared them to a less expensive competitor, and returned it. Wondering about what glue to use myself so thanks for bringing up the topic
  18. Great article thanks for posting! Helps explain why mine always in a state of almost done. With the exception of the “year of the blown motors” it’s been registered and on the road since 83. It’s almost done. 🤣
  19. +1. Makes car fun and easy to drive accelerating through the curve off exit ramps. Next to radials best, easiest and most effective driving upgrade I ever made!! Nice to see you back Brad - hope all is well!
  20. Wow - great job picking up on that nuance and knowing your car! If you ever want to advance your skills further you’re welcome to take a ride in mine with the radio turned down. 😜. It will help me procrastinate bodywork.
  21. Looks fantastic! Something to be really proud of. What’s next….. before the sewing machine cools off?
  22. I did the first few years but don’t get asked any more. But have also had the same agent for 30 years. There are more cars than drivers in the house which was the criteria. They offered it to me. The Trusty Rusty Tahoe is the grocery getter (w 290K miles on the clock) and the snow blaster, both it and the Buick are reduced mileage. The F150 and Altima are the highway runners. It’s not as low cost as historical insurance but it helps.
  23. Well then that’s just a dealbreaker for me, even if I could wash the windshield from the kitchen with an app in one hand and a beer in the other 😂 Incredible workmanship - holy cow. Just watched the video third time.
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