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Everything posted by KAD36

  1. Yep. Recall starting the car once after an oil change and thinking now isn’t that odd there is no oil pressure. Guess where it went…
  2. Cool..we can see who made ‘em right. Something else came to mind - if my understanding of the first post is that the transmission to engine bolts are loose it might put more strain on the flywheel to torque converter connection when you lift the engine which I believe is only 3 bolts. It might be better to keep the engine fastened tight to the transmission and loosen the bolts at the thrust pad and rear trans mount. That would also avoid pressure on the linkage for the switch pitch at the driver cylinder head down to the pitch actuating rod at the high accumulator - would keep it all in alignment. Just thinking out loud. Have a look and see what you think,
  3. Have only done this when pulling the engine, had put the old ones back in after an engine rebuild, then got new ones to swap in and fortunately the new engine grenaded itself making installation of the new mounts so much easier. You should’nt have to take the brackets off the engine. If I remember correctly one of those brackets bolts (drivers side?) goes into a cooling passage and has to be sealed with permatex if you pull it. Frame bolts and the bolt and nut around the rubber isolator. The engine grease and grime made those fairly easy to take off the first time in my instance. The brackets on the engine were tougher to get out. 2x4 under the oil pan to lift. Loosening the exhaust at the flange by the Y pipe - depends how high to lift. I would not expect you’d have to lift more than 1/2 inch or so to clear getting them out but I cant recall interference sliding or twisting them to R&R without looking at it. Check the vertical fan tip to fan shroud clearance and have the hood open so the air cleaner stud doesn’t hit the hood. You never know. Lastly most new mounts from peoples experience are not clocked exactly like the factories. I used Fusicks and they were off. CARS might be off too recalling another members experience. The holes on the mount can be slightly elongated to get it to fit. After about a year they softened up and did a better job at isolating vibration so don’t get nervous if you at first feel every harmonic under the hood. Others on the team may have more specifics. Good luck.
  4. Nice wagon! With a surf board on top….well then the neighbors will be talkin…🤣
  5. Reminded me of this ad as you go hunting for hills to try it out. Have to admit the 56 engine hiding in mine is rather fun 😁…which I might add was hauled out of NC-car-guy shed 👍
  6. Go baby go! 7.5 deg on timing here. Helped it run cooler, and I put the vac advance spring in from the 56 product service bulletin. No pinging under current conditions. I usually alternate/mix tanks 50/50 with 87 and ethanol free 90+ ever since that time you scolded me for putting 87 in it. See…I listen to you! 😁 BTW on more than one occasion my washer circuit was the cause of a sneak path vac leak at the dash. Not something intuitive at first, typically forget the dang washer is vac not electric and typically look under the hood for a vac leak. The second was that plastic T fitting getting brittle after only 60 years of running and splitting. Really glad you found it.
  7. Hmmmm….low vac and a miss…easy stuff first - try plugging both the source line to the vac wiper and the source line to the windshield washer button. Vac pump side of fuel pump too. Then from a vac leak standpoint it’s all engine and no accessories to cause distractions. Just happened all of a sudden?
  8. A 19 inch 5 blade fan was able to fit into the stock shroud on my 55 if the shroud was shifted up about 3/8- 1/4 inch - that pretty much centered it. Then sealed around the shroud with rubber washer tubing slit lengthwise to fill the gap between shroud and radiator (like you told me to!), the fan 1/2 into the shroud, and voila no more running hot and passes the rag stuck to the grill test (with the hood closed on the second try LOL)
  9. How’s the fluid level in the rear shocks look and any insight as to what fluid is in there? Use hydraulic Jack oil if you’re refilling. Check the rear shock links. Old Tank mentioned a good source for new improved rear links - think it’s bobs automobilia? My preference is stock soft springs but the improved sway bar, HD gas shocks up front, and radials made a night-day difference in my cars ride and control on corners or broken pavement. Panhard bushings next - one of these days. Have fun congrats on the new ride.
  10. Just curious if you can replace the tube that goes through the manifold. Alternatively on the early 55 manifolds there are a series of raised “zig zags” cast in on the back of the manifold with a cover riveted over that pattern and the carb heat tube pulls air across it to warm it. That cover disintegrated on mine and a choke stove, basically an insert that looked like a bolt half hollowed out lengthwise threaded into an hole drilled and tapped on the backside of the manifold out of sight, was the fix at the time and worked year round for many years. Any way you can make a simple heat exchanger for the heat tubes air at the exhaust manifold will suffice. Just another idea to consider. Good luck
  11. Yeah is it done yet? Videos, construction, destruction, parts from all over the world in the mail….
  12. Does that mean this isn’t needed or…. No expert either, never heard of it and to my knowledge not part of my aftermarket system.
  13. Go git em Tiger! Glad it worked, thanks for the refresher. Have fun.
  14. Resistance should be 1.4-1.6 ohms per shop manual specs. Check the values, the replacements run high in my experience between 1.8-2.2 ohms. Potential to lower primary voltage and cause a weak spark when the generating system goes into discharge, especially hot idle in drive, aggravated when loads are on like headlights and fans. Try it and see first as all the other replacement parts exceeding spec tolerances these days may compensate. If you get a replacement that has the (nichrome?) wire exposed in back vs encased in ceramic, trimming off about 1/4 inch of length will bring it into spec. Verify with a meter.
  15. …so someone got a little crazy blowing the horn at crosswalks to see people jump 🤣
  16. Looks like the metal edge on yours was ground down? It’s not under much stress, maybe fabricate a ring or flange of proper size out of aluminum, steel or brass, cut it into 2 or 3 sections to fit inside and JB weld it in place. I’m not sure if that can be mig welded to…. Not sure it’s the plastic that holds it, it needs that metal shoulder to hold it. Unless I’m missing the point which is possible….
  17. “Now youse can’t leave”. From A Bronx Tale.
  18. Yeah that was the second or third word that came to mind LOL. Power Technology 102. In his defense he did teach us to use a matchbook cover to set points when in a jam, so not all screws were loose.
  19. ^ that plus check for timing retarded (I.e. late timing) when you get your timing light…a couple degrees of advance usually helps with cooler running. I had a shop instructor once tell me that he could hold onto the #1 wire and when the coil fired he would blink his eyes to time an engine. He is probably not teaching any more. Just goes to show you there is no place for not listening to your own common sense. I remember my friends saying “ I’m not gonna try it, you try it”. 🤣
  20. Good find thanks for posting the pics - helps others understand since it’s not something easy to illustrate when installed. Clarifying earlier points, that piece in the 11:00 position to the left of the spring is the spacer previously mentioned that goes over the chrome actuating ring and is held on the shaft by the wheel nut so it can’t pop off. The flange on the spacer is what keeps the actuating ring retained on the steering wheel. The contact on the horn wire rests inside that dimple on the piece in the 6:00 position which fits over the other end of the spring. The spring and isolators, when compressed and installed between that pocket in the spacer and the piece in the 1:00 position with the clips pushes the actuating ring outwards, toward you, until the ring rests against the flange on the spacer. Turning that piece with the clips clockwise, which threads it into the actuating ring, sets the sensitivity of the ring (how far to push it) to blow the horn. Hope that helps…..
  21. It would be the BCA version of "The Curse of Oak Island'. Bunch of us running around the field with metal detectors and we find a nail or an Ox shoe.
  22. Stock (worn) exhaust or something different?
  23. That is so cool. Makes me want to dig up photos of mine in black and white from the late 50s at my grandfathers place when it was out doin it’s thing….. Probably drag racing usnavystgc 56 Buick up the Kulpmont hill… So….why did the Buick get buried but not the Model T? So you could make tea in the Model T? ( great video btw). I mean, if you could plow a field with a model T couldn’t you do it with the 56? It has power steering. I just don’t get it.😎
  24. You’re welcome. Yes I think it has to come off unless you can ascertain by visual inspection all parts are accounted for and properly installed. If you take it apart in sequence and take your time my hunch is you’ll figure it out else there’s a couple dozen of us armchair mechanics who have swore at this project prior to success. Nothing special that I’m aware of. Am going off memory but mind how the contact button comes out so the wire if still soldered to the slip ring collet on the steering shaft inside the column doesn’t break off. There’s videos floating around of folks who did it if you want a look see, but I think it will be self evident. I recall simply unscrewing the nut then the circus really freakin started and back then I had no drawings or shop manual but my photographic memory still worked. It still works but it takes longer for the film to develop and occasionally some negatives get lost. If you pull the steering wheel its location is marked on the shaft with a mark on the wheel and mark on the shaft. Line it back up right then go drive the car and blow the horn to your hearts content. Good luck
  25. Look at the first diagram in the link. It looks like the spacer piece is missing? I believe the chrome ring goes on the wheel then the spacer plate then the wheel nut holds the spacer plate on. The chrome ring will then be held loosely on the wheel. When installing the remainder of the illustrated parts in sequence per diagram, the spring will lift the chrome ring off the steering wheel. That space of the lift between the ring and the wheel is governed by how far the adjusting nut is turned, and hence sensitivity of the ring to blow the horn. Horn stuck on all the time if actuator ring is properly assembled and adjusted is a short in the steering column at the slip ring based on realized community experience. Different problem, search forum for repair and see Old Tanks tech tips page. is that clear RTV around that piece on the steering shaft? If so it’s not supposed to be there unless someone was trying to make an insulator. Pictures are worth a thousand words for this repair, you have to lay the pieces out in sequential order to get it right. Often not intuitively obvious but doable.
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