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KAD36

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Everything posted by KAD36

  1. Thank you for the great write up and lessons learned. Will be a big help for anyone who follows.
  2. Where’s the glass Trico bottle with the vacuum washer?
  3. Went from L 78-15 2.75” WW bias ply to the 225/75 R15 2.75 WW. Solved the rubbing inner fenders & tie rod ends on inner tire wall during cornering problem. Not sure what original WW width was but been happy with smaller diameter tire and the whitewall size looks similar in perspective to period photos.
  4. Regarding insurance my car is not registered as an antique or historical and has regular insurance with a mileage cap I’ll be unlikely to hit unless I go to the west coast and back. I used to put 10-12000 miles a year on my car in the early 80s as it was all I had and drove it year round - rain or shine or snow. In winter I think I had studded Firestone Town and Country’s, or maybe Dunlops - they were the big zig zag Firestone type tread, +2 80 lb bags of water softener salt in the trunk and a full tank of gas and that thing was like a D-9 dozer in the snow. I never collected on the “Firestone will pay the tow” guarantee, but always thought it a cool jingle. In recent years experiencing the scarcity and cost of replacement parts for a large series 2dr hardtop if an oops should happen, plus it’s “family heirloom” status, has admittedly caused me to drive it somewhat less often. However when it’s on the road doing its thing, its not driven like an old car. About all I do is adjust speed or route to keep it in wide open traffic and not let the gazers or gawkers keep a swerving pace alongside it (quit watching the car and watch where you’re goin) and leave triple the space between myself and the other guy. Probably same for many of us. It always feels good looking out over that big steering wheel while keeping up with 70+ mph interstate traffic. 👍
  5. Doing that well he should have 5!
  6. I sounds like there isn’t any level of modifications that would satisfy reducing the blow by while preserving the importance of keeping the engines originality/integrity? No experience here with synthetics. FWIW none of the over the counter stop smoke additives ever worked for me and being on a low hobby budget many were tried. Adding a temporary vent path and re-burning fumes or rebuilding and replacing all equally worn parts with a full rebuild worked for me. Same experience as EmTee with a valve job only fixed other things but not that.. Interested in what you decide and how it works.
  7. Likewise. My stock fan was 17 and what fit in the shroud was a 19 ish while still giving ~1/4 inch clearance which has proven plenty IMHO. All that had to be done was shift the shroud down ever so slightly to better center it around the fan. The shroud bolt heads actually cover the elongated mounting holes. The only time the fan rubs the shroud is during a full throttle launch when that deceptive little 322 twists the frame and crimps the body panels. HA! That trail of dynaflow fluid and broken parts heading in the direction of the nearest BBQ joint is mine….🤣🤣🤣
  8. When adding AC to my car, there were a couple of experiments on fans and airflow that old tank and I did.. BLUF answer to keep the car coolest at hot idle was (starting with most effective) 1) 6 blade mechanical aftermarket fan 2) HD clutch fan with larger than stock diameter 5 blade fan from 79 Olds 3) bump the idle up to about 650-675 in D. 4) advance base timing about 2-3 deg. 2-4 are what I’m currently running with no issues. My car had similar thermal issues even before the AC, creeping up until it buried the needle on H at idle in D after a highway run, then stuck in traffic on a 95 deg day. N on my gauge is about 200, H is about 225-230. Maybe this is how it was supposed to work back in the day and I had put up with it for many years until I figured enough is enough - plus some cooling margin was required to be built in for adding the AC. The radiator is HD (stock replacement) 3 row. Might add another step, although more investment, is an aluminum radiator; usnavystgc had good results putting one in his 56. I know yours is different than a 55 but consider the above data points if you want to explore options. I briefly considered electric fans but didn’t want to upgrade the stock electrical system to handle the extra load of the AC plus engine fan. Good luck, interested in what you decide.
  9. I had rigged one up for my 55 several years ago, ran it for a few seasons and it definitely “curbed” the issue and kept the engine bay cleaner. It wasn’t optimal but it worked. Before that, I used to just keep an old sock over the breather on the oil filler to try to keep the oily vapors from blowing back over the engine and prevent it from collecting dirt. Finally, made the headfirst dive into that expensive option and *woo hoo* no more junk coming out of the breather tube….🤣
  10. With Watkins Glen under your belt….time to start practicing wheelies.
  11. Wow…..bit more than a chipped tooth huh - thanks for all the pics. BTW - seeing those cobwebs in the brakes and the wire holding the exhaust brings back nightmares 🙂
  12. Thanks for following up with the solution, that’s always helpful; do you carry a spare? Experienced a run of bad “new” ones in rapid succession about a year ago - keep a watch out….
  13. My guess is on the gasket at the flange at the end of the power cylinder. Has like 4 bolts going through it at end of cylinder bore, going off memory….
  14. Yes that’s the ballast resistor, it will get hot, hence why it is housed in ceramic, especially noticeable if you leave key on with engine not running. Smart to plug the vac source for now, the vac circuit shown in the picture needs work. Check sources provided by 56Buick after you get it running. Car pics?. Good luck.
  15. X2 Condenser. And how is the resistance across the points? Another idea is to check the voltage at the yellow wire at both the junction block and coil + to ground when cranking. It should be pretty close to batteries voltage - if it’s a few volts less it would suggest a poor current carrying connection at the starter solenoid path (which is used to bypass the ballast on startup) or at junction block. The fact the rotor resistance made a difference in starting when it should be negligible makes it seem like whatever is causing the degradation is unique to starting circuit or it’s not enough to make it fail when the rotor resistance was effectively removed with the jumper you made. The coil swap will tell us all something for sure. After finding the degrading component weakening the spark, if you keep both resistor plugs and resistor wires, and get a “new” rotor that has less than an ohm resistance, you’ve still got over 20K ohms or 2x the spec on the secondary circuit.
  16. Yep looks all too familiar 👍. Is there enough solder wetting on that wire? Maybe it’s the picture angle….When does the column go back in the car? Keep up the good work!
  17. Maybe not retracting, or a chipped or damaged tooth locking it up on the flywheel or starter gear? Starter is easiest to pull to isolate. Then you’re into the engine. Take your pick what to pull next.. Timing cover, heads, pan.
  18. Regarding question 1, don’t recall any posts on improvising the brush - is the brush plate missing entirely? If so something could probably be fabbed up with some brass stock - a cylinder with a rod with a rounded tip that fits in it, mount the cylinder to a curved plate to fit the column, a spring on the backside with a keeper soldered onto the rod to hold it against the copper fitting once the plate is secured to the column. The copper plumbing fitting on the shaft will outlive the car and won’t wear out like the thin brass stock one. Have you tried posting on the buy/sell? Probably save you some time and maybe not a common part that’s hoarded unless you’re looking for a project. Question 3 -> tie a string to the wire, desolder, stuff it in the hole. Or…..what JD said!…. which is how mine was done the second time 🤣 Just an idea..
  19. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/283203-1954-1955-1956-buick-4bbl-oil-bath-air-filter-replacement-with-paper-filter/#comment-1526570 Some options at link above. Using paper on mine currently with minor modification, all of 10 min worth, to ensure good seal. No issues with this or the oil bath, I just prefer the paper FWIW.
  20. Would you happen to have resistor wire for both coil & plugs (vs solid wire), plus resistor plugs plus a resistor in the rotor? And then there is the condition of the rotor tip and each cap terminal. Wonder if that’s too much secondary resistance stacked up if other parts of the system are out of spec, unless others have this configuration working well. Any recent part changes to the ignition or did this degrade over time or just happen.. Hot spark is blue/white and will give a crisp snap sound at the plug. Orange is usually weak and often sounds more like a pop. Was “no spark” at a plug gap or end of ignition wire. If the spark seen at end of coil wire was weak it is unlikely sufficient to fire the plug considering the downstream resistances. 12.6 was probably bouncing around if car was running but it’s an indicator. If troubleshooting the primary circuit my preference is to start the measurement with the engine off, check the resistance or voltage across each component and connection from ignition switch to distributor ground to make sure there’s no stray resistances that could rob current or voltage. If the car started reliably with all these “extra” resistances before, when checking the caps integrity include ensuring clean terminals where the wires insert and check condition between cap and rotor contacts, condition of the coil secondary (could be breaking down which resistance check may not show), condenser breaking down/leaking, and ensure low resistance readings across points, any primary wires inside the distributor (fraying/corroded) and across ballast/ignition switch to ensure good current flow through primary. Think we all beat up the rotor pretty good. Keep us posted.
  21. Just when you thought you saw it all….🤯
  22. Agree no smoking gun yet. Doesn’t seem like it’s the rotor resistor IMHO unless it’s electrically opening up somehow under operating conditions. The 140K ohm example in my post still ran my car FWIW. If the absence or presence of the 11k rotor resistance is the difference between a start and no start condition as reported, might it suggest a weak spark condition? In other words the system is on the threshold of having sufficient primary or subsequent secondary voltage to successfully jump the ionized air gap at the plug with .2 ohms in the secondary path, but not with 11k ohms. As others pointed out usual suspects are dirty connections on individual components anywhere in the primary circuit path, the coil (measure resistances compared to spec or replace), condenser (replace or do a static charge/discharge check with a DVM to get a rough idea of its integrity), try jumping across the ballast to make absolutely sure it’s out of the circuit on startup, measure/replace points, measure ignition/coil wire resistances. Curious what you find out
  23. Little late to the party. The carbon rod spec is 10K ohms and concur it’s for suppressing radio interference as the car originally had non resistor plugs and wires. The new rotors resistance vary wildly. Excerpt from my 12 volt coil problem thread below, I chucked the 140K ohm one. Posted May 13, 2021 (edited) The two on the left were purchased within the past 2 years. They measure .5 and .6 ohms. Like a dead short. The .6 ohm one is in the car. The two on the RIGHT are older ones - the 12.7 K ohm one is very old and out of the 55 distributor with many miies on it but still works ok. The 143K one is new and never installed. These two were purchased probably 10 years ago. You can see the carbon resistor is almost potted in the newer ones and inserted in the two older ones. These are all standard motor parts. The spec says 10K ohms. Edited May 13, 2021 by KAD36 (see edit history)
  24. Runs for 8 hours after car is off? or maybe 8 hours after you put the fire out it’s good to go again. Seems risky. 🙄🤣 Interesting concept but agree power too high, output too low, accuracy/interpretation of numbers questionable.
  25. Dont you love it when that happens? Whenever that happens to me the old ABC Wide World of Sports intro plays through my head. “The thrill of victory”….immediately followed by that ski dude crashing horrifically. Bringing the human drama of antique car restoration and maintenance. 🤣
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