Kosage Chavis

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Everything posted by Kosage Chavis

  1. I don't ever plan on towing anything with my car, but I love what you shared. I have never seen this before. Thank you Sean.
  2. Last weekend, I didn't do too much with the Buick. I had car parts that needed to be boxed up and stored...so I did that. Also, I forgot to get some good shots of the engine compartment with the engine removed. Here are a few...Afterwards, I put her back in the carport.She rolls around without too much effort now. We'll have to see what else I can do this weekend.
  3. That's a pretty good idea! The reality for me is this...I have limited space and means. I will have to improvise a lot to complete this project in the manner that I want to. Good news is that my Wife and I are already talking about building a detatched garage. It won't be huge, but I will maximize it's use. Just got to be smart about how I design it. The existing garage that we have now won't do anymore. Quite frankly, I redid it too pretty. It looks more like an extension of our house instead of a work area. Now, my Wife gets a little upset with me when I bring in more car parts. My workspace has shrunk to one corner of the garage. So, pray for me. I have already talked to my Dad about possibly teaming up to build it. We shall see what happens. But please, any ideas are a big help in terms of making the best of limited space.
  4. My Daughter was asking me the same question. We both looked at the car and couldn't really figure it out. Probably the steering column and wiring harness. The engine too. After that...that's probably it. Nothing else can be done with the body until I can get another garage.
  5. Good morning Sir. Yes, I agree! The load leveler made things a lot easier on me and I am happy that I got it. Hopefully, I will never have to upgrade the engine. I do have a parts car with the correct entire engine that moves freely. But if I ever did, I would go the same route as you by looking into nailhead from a 56.
  6. Not a beer guy Sean. Just everyone's designated driver😉. My patience, so far, has been holding up well throughout this process. During the times where I may become stagnant in the process, I will just sit and admire the car and all of the craftmanship of how the car was put together. I suppose the only thing that tries my patience is not having enough time in a day to do more work.
  7. In my previous post, I mentioned failing at my first attempt to remove the engine with transmission. In this post, I will go into more detail of what happened and what I did to correct it. Last Friday was my first attempt and my 2 youngest had asked me several times about helping me with removing the engine. Here's the first video... Not to worry everyone. I only let my 2 youngest do the initial hoisting of the engine until the front end came off of the front engine mounts. Once that was done, I took over the rest. Here's the 2nd video... Shortly after removing the exhaust cross-over pipe and after a few subtle attempts to pull the driveshaft from the transmission, I realized that I was doing something wrong and that I shouldn't force the issue. That's when I texted Matt and asked for his advice. Pulling backwards on the rear end would be the way to go using jacking straps. At this point, it was getting a little late and I had other responsibilities to take care of. So, I rested the engine in place and called it a day. The next day at about noon, I am back at it trying to figure out if anything would restrict me from pulling the rear end backwards. The only thing I saw that might restrict this was a rear diagonal round bar shown here...I removed this by unbolting 4 bolts, 1 nut and a bracket, all shown here...On the other side, I removed this nut...and then removed 2 bolts and bracket shown here.Tap the threaded shaft out on this end. This side is now free. Go back to passenger's side and pull off of the threaded shaft. Showing area of removal here...and then here...Showing the rear suspension cross bar removed from car.Overall, easy task. Now, time to pull the rear end. I didn't have any jacking straps, but my kind neighbor let me borrow his. Here is a video of what I did... The jacking straps worked like a charm and the torque tube slid out of the torque ball very easily as shown...Once it was totally separated, I reinstalled the rear suspension diagonal bar and then I get back to removing the engine/transmission. The only other foul that popped up was the oil filter housing. I removed it from the engine and I was now in the clear. Here's the last video that I took... At this point it's dark and getting late. So, I left the engine outside over night while it sit covered in plastic and on a couple of 4 x 4's. On Sunday, I cleared an area in the garage in front of my work bench and moved it in there. Here's a couple shots after all of the work...Overall, this task was a moderate and timely one when doing it by yourself. But it is very doable!
  8. Had no luck with pulling the engine yesterday. I thought the torque tube would slide out of the transmission with a little pull from the front. I was wrong. Looks like I will need to pull back on the rear end assembly to pull apart first.
  9. I attempted to remove the engine and transmission today with no luck. Turns out that it is much harder to separate the torque tube from the transmission by pulling on the engine from the front. Matt told me I should separate by pulling back on the rear end. Is there any post on here that has some photos of this process? Thank you.
  10. Here is the engine number stamped onto my main Buick... Then the one stamped on my parts car... What does this tell you. I see the 6 on the end of both, indicating a Century. Anything else maybe?
  11. More things to remove before I am clear enough to remove engine and transmission. Here, I am removing the steering column to transmission shift linkage. Remove the cotter pin at the top as shown and then slide the rod out of it's socket.Remove the cotter pin on the same rod at the bottom as shown. Slide out of the socket to remove.Be sure to label top and bottom ends. Then remove the rod that links the transmission to the frame mounted linkage. Remove the cotter pin at the linkage as shown and then slide the peg out from the fork.Remove the cotter pin at the back where the rod meets the arm of the transmission as shown. Slide rod out of socket and remove.Remove this linkage from the frame by removing both bolts as shown.Showing the steering column to transmission linkage assembly after removal. Next, I removed the transmission fluid dipstick assembly as shown. You should unbolt the tubing at the top bracket, but mine already was bent open and missing the bolt.Loosen both clamps as shown and slide tubing from the hose.Remove upper bracket by unbolting 2 bolts on the backside.Showing area after removal.Showing the transmission dipstick assembly after removal. Next, I unbolted the cross-over exhaust to straight exhaust flange as shown. There are 3 in all.I then unbolted the exhaust hanger to transmission bolts as shown. There are 2 bolts.This will give you a little more room to remove the draft tube while taking care of a step necessary to removing the engine. Next is the draft tube as shown.Unbolt at the tube about half way down here.Go to the top and wiggle the draft tube from the valley pan cover socket as shown.You will need to finesse the tube a bit to remove and you will need to pull it up, out away from the engine. I also had to slightly turn the distributor because the vacuum advance was in the way. Showing the area after removal.Showing the draft tube removed from car. Next is the transmission cooler as shown.Unscrew both hard lines on the top as shown. Connection on each side.Crowfoot wrenches are a must to loosen these flared fittings or you could damage them. You will then unbolt the most outer pair of bolts as shown. Remove.Removal of the transmission cooler will give you better access to the speedometer cable where it connects to the side of the transmission as shown. Unscrew the knob, pull out and move to the side.Showing area after removal.Showing the transmission cooler removed from car. Next, remove the transmission to cross member bracket and thrust pad as shown. Remove the 4 bolts that bolt into the bottom of the transmission.Remove the 2 bolts and plate. Remove the 3 bolts and plate shown here.Remove the bracket and thrust pad. Showing area after removal.Showing the transmission to cross member bracket and thrust pad removed from car. Next, remove the 4 bolts here that mounts the torque tube to the transmission as shown. Next, remove both nuts from the bottom of both front engine mounts as shown. Found on each side of the engine block.You can do this underneath your car as shown. This cross member has holes that allow a clear path to both of those nuts on each side. Finally, I removed the transmission mount and cross member as shown.Grab a 2x6 and wedge it between a car jack and the transmission pan. Jack until the rear of the transmission is supported as shown.Remove 4 bolts on each side of the cross member as shown.My car had a very thin spacer on the passenger's side that is wedged between the frame and cross member flange. Also, on the driver's side, one of the cross member bolts mounts a heater hose clip just on the other side of the frame as shown. It is on the top forward bolt. Remove all.Showing the area after removal.Showing the transmission mount and cross member after removal. Overall, all of the tasks in this post were easy. NOW, THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE READY TO COME OUT. I CAN'T WAIT!
  12. Hey Mr Lamar. I was wondering the same thing lately with the engine. The color seemed just a bit too light blue to be original, but it was hard for me to tell. Tonight, I happened to walk by the spark plug wires on my work bench and looked at them more closely and I noticed this...There seems to be a more original looking color engine paint underneath the bluish paint. So, it seems that this engine had been repainted at some time before. Of course, I have no knowledge of this. The question I now have is, how can I tell if this is the original engine to my car and is there such a thing as a numbers maching engine for 55 Buicks?
  13. The whole story hurt me just reading it. Glad that you worked up enough will to do another engine. It looks and sounds awesome. Hope that I can do as good a job as you. Be blessed.
  14. I had more small tasks to take care of before I am able to remove the engine and transmission. I disconnected this wire harness shown here that leads to the starter.There are 3 connections to the starter as shown. Disconnect. Next up was the carburetor.Remove the insulated tubing shown here.As you can see, this should probably be connected at the bottom somewhere. Unfortunately, it burned off and I have no clue where it connects. That leaves me with the top connection shown here. Disconnect.Disconnect the fuel line shown here.Then, disconnect the capillary tubing at the bottom-front of the carburetor as shown.Remove the part of the linkage shown here.Unclip at the rear end of this linkage as shown.Once unclipped, slide the rear out of it's socket. Just be sure to grab the clip as you slide out. The clip falls off easily and is very easy to lose. Once the rear end is free, you can unscrew at the end that connects to the carburetor. Leave the jam nut in it's place. Finally, remove the 4 nuts and washers that hold down the carburetor shown here.Once removed, lift the carburetor up and out. If the carburetor is stuck on it's surface, grab with both hands and jolt it back and forth till it breaks loose. Showing site after removal.Showing carburetor after removal. Next, I removed the air conditioning compressor brackets as shown.There are 3 pieces to this assembly. Starting with the rear bracket.The bottom mounts to the flange of the exhaust manifold with the manifold bolt shown here.The top mounts to the top of the intake manifold as shown.The rear bracket is now free. Next is the tubular brace that connects to the front bracket from the intake manifold bolt as shown.Showing how the other end of the tubular brace attaches to the top of the front bracket.Once both ends are unbolted, the tubular brace is free. That leaves the front bracket as shown.There should be another 2 ended threaded bolt that helps mount the front bracket. You would remove both nuts in front and then remove the larger nut on the side. The front bracket is now free. Showing the bracket assembly for the air conditioning compressor removed from car. Next, the bundle of air and fuel lines as shown. Undo both fuel fittings from the top of the fuel pump. Do the same with both air lines that come off the bottom of the same pump.Remove 2 brackets that holds on the fuel line onto the cross member of the frame as shown. Remove. Unscrew this flared fitting on top of the intake manifold as shown. Showing the fuel pump after all 4 connections disconnected. Disconnect this flared fitting from the distributor assembly as shown.2 other connections were already disconnected previously. The bundle of lines that sit on the valve cover valley pan are binded together with a metal strap and can now be moved from the car. Next was the ignition coil shown here. Removed the wire shown here.Remove both nuts shown here.The coil is now free. Remove. I then removed both spark plug wire braces held down only by 1 single nut on top of the valve cover as shown. Remove. Next is the oil pressure capillary tubing shown here mounted to the firewall.Simply loosen the screws to the hold down clamps on the firewall as shown.Finally, disconnect this flared fitting that feeds into the transmission as shown.The line is now free. Carefully remove from car. Next, I removed the rest of the accelerator-to-carburetor linkage assembly as shown. Disconnect the connecting rod from the linkage as shown here.Removed the upper arm of the linkage by removing the bolt shown here.I then removed the labeled connecting rod shown here. The bottom connection is shown here by the car frame. Disconnect and remove.Remove this spring at both ends.The rest of the linkage assembly is held on by 2 bolts behind the part I am pointing to shown here. Remove both bolts.Then remove both bolts here that mounts this part of the linkage to the firewall.Slide accelerator rod from this firewall penetration as shown. The entire linkage assembly is now free and can be removed. Showing the area after removal.Showing the accelerator-to-carburetor linkage assembly removed from car. Overall, all of the tasks in this post were easy.
  15. The engine and transmission are ready to come out as one. Any suggestions on where to mount the lifting chain. It will be mounted at 2 points. Thank you.
  16. Next thing I removed were all of the heater hoses along with the splash guard for the starter.I made sure I labeled the ends of each hose before removal so that I know how to route when installing new ones. There are 4 altogether. The picture above shows the 3 hoses coming off of the water pump and coolant manifold. I started with the middle hose that runs on the driver's side.It runs through this front body mount here as shown above.The run is sandwiched between the floor pan and frame on the driver's side as shown above. After that, the hose bends inward towards the center of the car as it is again sandwiched between the floor pan and frame as shown above.Here is that same run just on the other side of that part of the frame as shown above. This hose terminates here and would attach to the under-seat heating assembly. This hose is removed simply by just sliding it out. Next, I removed the hose on the passenger's side shown here.This hose attaches to the ranco valve before it runs aft.As shown above, unclip here just before the hanger assembly for the exhaust.The run continues aft pass the hanger assembly for the exhaust.As shown above, the run continues aft just above and in between the exhaust pipe and transmission dip-stick tubing before it is sandwiched (along with a smaller hard tubing) a structural member of the frame.As shown above, looking further down at the same run while looking forward (in respect to the car). The hose then bends toward the center of the car.The hose continues above the torque ball flange as shown above. Unclip here.The same hose then runs down slightly and penetrates the frame as shown above.After the penetration, the hose terminates here and would also attach to the under-seat heater assembly. The photo shown above is taken while looking towards the driver's side. Again, the hose can just be pulled out to remove.The last 2 hoses shown above are saved for last. These hoses run just to the side of the engine on the driver's side. They then bend towards the center of the car before they run between the power steering unit and frame. The hoses then bend down and then aft.The hoses are clipped to this starter splash guard as shown above. The photo looks towards the driver's side. You will need to remove this part to gain easy access to the hoses. Remove the 4 bolts and then remove 1 more bolt on the front arm of this splash guard.The photo shown above is the continuation of the same run after passing between the frame and power steering unit.The photo shown above shows the hoses running aft. Unclip the hoses from the splash guard and remove splash guard from the car.The hoses continue aft and penetrates this part of the frame as shown above.Showing the hoses on the other side of the penetration. The hoses then bend toward the center of the car and both attach to the transmission cooler as shown above. Detach here and pull the hoses out. Showing the starter splash guard removed from the car.Showing the heater hoses removed from the car.Overall, easy task.
  17. I like originality, but I don't see how that small change messes up how the engine works. I could be wrong though.
  18. Anything important or special that I need to know when removing the engine and transmission from the car?
  19. Last weekend I removed some more parts from the Buick. I mostly removed the small things that are in the way. I started with the fuel pump/filter and associated wires/tubing. As you can tell, nothing about this is original to the car. The original mechanical fuel/air pump must be shot because the previous owner capped every connection off and bypassed it with an electrical fuel pump. Whoever did the job obviously just wanted the car to run with minimal effort. Just look at how the gas line ran.Pretty sloppy. I just went ahead and disconnected the fuel line here right before it runs under the body of the car.Out of curiosity, I looked over my parts car that has a more original run of its fuel line. If it is correct, that fuel line should penetrate the frame through the hole shown here.I just cut the electrical wires off. The wires were rigged anyway. I am not going to document this because I plan on going back with the original fuel set-up. However, I do plan on taking Mr Willie's suggestion of adding on an electrical fuel pump to prevent the infamous vapor lock. It will instead be mounted towards the rear of the car, just foward of the fuel tank. Showing the fuel pump, filter, wires and tubing removed from the car.Overall, easy task. Next, I removed the power steering hoses.Just remove at the flare nuts shown here.Showing area of removal.I am not sure if it is necessary, but I sealed up the outlets with some 6mil plastic and some zip ties. Showing the power steering hoses removed from the car.Overall, easy task. I also removed the negative battery wire/terminal.I removed a single bolt shown here.Area after the removal.Showing the negative battery wire/terminal removed from the car.Overall, easy task. I also removed the spark plug wires, but no need to document that. I have one more removal to add, but I will put that on my next post. It was a little more involved.
  20. Is there anything special you need to do or look out for when removing a Carter 4 barrel carburetor? Thank you.
  21. Okay. Got the wrong impression.
  22. Can't wait to see what you do with this Mr Willie. Is there any major part that is missing?