Kosage Chavis

Before and after pictures? I would love to see how extensive chromers go in their repairs. Would you mind sharing the price? If that's too personal of a question, maybe give us a ballpark figure. I want to prepare myself for what will soon come. I am very excited for you Mr Mudd!

Lawd have mercy, that looks gorgeous!

Okay, time for something more uplifting. I got this in the mail a few weeks ago. It's an oil filler extension that came standard on cars equipped with A/C. It also came with some extras...a pair of fresh intake valves that are part of the A/C evaporator box. Both are compliments of Mr Lamar. Thank you again @MrEarl. And today, I got these in the mail. A set of 1955 Roadmaster wheel covers with the center ornaments.I know these are original to only Roadmasters from 1955, but I always loved them and at least wanted to have the option to use these instead of the plain ones. Not too sure which set to use right now, but these were a set that were in pretty good shape while being affordable. Compliments of Ebay.

Good to hear from you @old-tank. No, I used my own money to pay for shipping, but thank you for the advice. @JohnD1956, I think I am going to do as you suggested. Thank you.

The reason I posted that question in my previous post is because the shipping company decided it would be okay for this crate to go down that 10 foot drop. I was told the windshield broke at the drop. Everything about this was messed up. This whole thing started with a gentleman that wanted to buy some Buick parts from me. That included the windshield and some additional items. I made the crate myself and packed it with styrofoam to keep things from shifting around. I even added handles on each side so that the shippers would have an easier time moving it around. I packed it well enough so that it could survive a roll over or a small drop. I carried it to the shipper. They were informed of its contents and they knew it weighed 135 pounds. I even stenciled the words "GLASS" and "FRAGILE" on all sides of the crate so the shippers would handle with extra care. The shippers weren't at all worried. I would think that the shippers know the process the package would have to go through and if there was any doubt or concern, they would inform me of this. Therefore, I wasn't worried at all. I payed the money and got the tracking number. I informed the buyer that the crate was shipped and forwarded the tracking number to him. A few days went by and I hadn't heard anything from the buyer. I contacted the buyer and asked if he had been tracking the package. He said he hadn't, but would do so soon. Another few days go by and I hear nothing from the buyer. So, I went ahead and decided to track it myself. Come to find out, the crate traveled from Virginia to Houston, Texas, with some exchanges along the way. It was doing good until right before it went out for delivery and that's where it became damaged. They didn't specify what the damage was, but said they would notify the sender of the damage. However, this damage had already occurred a few days before I discovered this message. No one called me or emailed me anything. I called the shipper up in Houston and got an automated answer. I then called my local shipper and they told me no one had notified them of the damage. They told me they would look into what happened and call me the next day. No one called me. I waited about 3 days and still no call. So, I called again. I talked to the same person who never called back. This is where I was told about the 10 foot drop along the conveyor belt path. She said the windshield was damaged on the drop and all of the contents in the crate were discarded (thrown away). I asked why in the world would they throw everything out just because one item became damaged. No good answer. I asked why any shipper would let this type of package go down a 10 foot drop. Again, no good answer. I asked why the shippers at my local store didn't voice any concern, knowing these shipments go down these types of drops and has a good chance of being damaged. No good answer. Adding insult to injury, the shippers even opened up a claim and closed it without my knowledge. They found themselves not liable. Of course I asked how come I wasn't informed of the claim when it opened and when it closed. No good answer. I asked if anyone took pictures of the crate and damaged contents. They didn't. No documentation whatsoever. I asked why this was. No good answer. So anything could have happened and the shippers get away with it without so much as a blink of an eye. I also asked why would they throw everything out when I knew other items were not damaged. Why wasn't I given any option on the items that were still good. No good answer. I told them that this was bad business and that I should at least get my money back for what I paid in shipping cost. She said that they couldn't. I asked to speak to a supervisor and I was told that the supervisor was going to tell me the same thing. I basically had no recourse in this matter at all. I not only had to eat over 300 dollars in shipping cost just so they could carelessly damage good car parts, but I was very upset that they also carelessly and indiscriminately threw out good Buick car parts that were still in good shape. Not to mention the time I put into building that crate myself. I got to admit, it depressed me for a few days. I was very upset. Then on top of that, I had to explain this to the buyer. He gave me a lot of money to do all of this and he wasn't going to get anything. I couldn't deal with that so I just refunded all of his money. I am good now. I will just take this as a lesson.

Got a question... Let's say you work for a shipping company and your job is to load shipments on a conveyor belt that has a 10 foot drop at some point along it's intended path. Now, let's say that while you are doing your job, you come up on a shipment that looks like this...Do you load it up or do you hold it back?

A small update to the garage. Lighting is one of a few things that needs improvement. Exterior lighting would be easiest. So, I did that first. Ran wire and boxes. Also switched out a single switch for a double to operate lights at both doors independently.Lights are now functional and they even look nice for the main garage door.I also switched to a matching light at the smaller garage door. That is all for now.

@Hitekcm, the only stainless that I have is for the surroundings of the windows on the doors, exterior. I also have the trim for the door sills.

Rear seat is sold.

I am now at a transitional point in the removal process. The body is now ready to be separated from the frame and the only thing left in the way of doing this is the brake pedal shown here.Just on the other side of the firewall is a singular bolt that will release the brake pedal.Loosen and remove the bolt. Twist the brake pedal until you can pull it from it's socket. Once removed, I reinstalled the bolt to avoid losing it. Showing the site after removal.Showing the brake pedal after removal.Overall, easy task. Unfortunately, I will have to take a brief hiatus from working on the Buick. I understand that it won't be long now until I will make the transition from removals to refurbishing and installation. I also don't want to separate the body from frame until I make my garage more functional. So, I will be working on a homeade elevator to make it easier, quicker and safer to get from the floor to the attic. There will be some more things I will add as well. I will cover that stuff in my "Chavis Garage" thread. Not to mention, I am going to build a playset for my kids too. Hope to be back here sooner, rather than later.

Probably one of the things that scares me most is the body work. Never done it before and always amazed at those of you all who can. Looking forward to how this one turns out.

I am now down to the very last item inside the car that I will remove here. I don't know the proper term for it. So, I will just call it the firewall insulation pad, shown here.At this point, there are only 2 screws holding this pad in its place. They are both at the very far sides. Remove both screws.Carefully pry off the insulation from the firewall to avoid breaking or tearing. That's really it. Showing the area after removal.Showing the firewall insulation pad removed from car.Overall, this was an easy task.

@EmTee, I would love to add some AC, but I have no idea when I could do something like that. The priority right now is to make the garage as functional as possible. I want to add a car lift and a small homeade elevator (don't laugh).

@EmTee, that last post was not mine.

Front windshield is sold... Front interior windshield moulding is sold... Front ventilator windows are sold... Front door interior mouldings are sold... Window regulator set is sold.

@lancemb, yes it is. There's just a few places on the floor pans that need some patching.

This time, I removed the entire wiring harness from the car. I usually go step by step with associated photos when explaining the removal of any part. This time, I created a video that pretty much explains what I did in an orderly manner to remove the wiring harness. I will also add on some photos to add some more context. So, here it is... Everything starts from the back. None of these bushings are any good. All are dry rotted. Showing where the harness branches off to feed the fuel sending unit in the trunk. The harness branches off here in the trunk to feed the dome light in the interior of the car. Detach. After working my way to the front of the car and before I pull the wiring harness from the firewall, I decide to move the other cables out of the way first. This photo shows the speedometer cable. Pull speedometer cable from here. Unclip speedometer cable here. Showing the emergency cable here. Remove bushing and then pull from this location. Unclip emergency brake cable just below from where I am pointing. Just leave the cables hanging. I will completely remove after removing the body from the frame later. Remove both screws to remove the high beam floor switch shown here. Push out the switch. Unclip the last of the wiring harness here. Remove 2 screws at this firewall penetration. One at the top and one at the bottom. Push the major bushing out from the firewall. Be sure to slowly feed the wiring harness from the firewall, as not to damage anything. Showing part of the removal site. Showing the entire wiring harness after removal. Overall, this was a somewhat easy task.

I couldn't say. This is the first time I am seeing this name. I googled the name and found their website. All I see is them selling cars.

Rear door hinges are now sold.

Whadup @Specalist John. The seat is still available. Is he local? Have your buddy text or call me. Thank you John.

@John Dino, I tried my best to get those hinges off through bolt removal, but I wasn't making any progress at all. So, I took a cutting wheel and cut the hinges off the door instead. The hinges were not touched or damaged in any way. Here are a couple of photos.I hope this will suffice. Let me know.

We can do paypal. I should be able to start removing those hinges today. But let's hold off on payment until I get them off for you.

I can build a crate for the rear window if anyone needs it. I already built one for this front windshield that is being sold, shown here. The other stuff you see in this crate are other items the buyer requested.

This car was sold earlier this month. A fancy truck with the name, F.C. Kerbeck, picked the car up. My guess...it was purchased to be resold at a later time.

Not a problem. However, I am going on vacation tomorrow and won't be able to get to this until I get back late next week. I hope this won't be a problem.