Kosage Chavis

Funny you would recommend this. I bought this exact tool for this reason with no luck. I might take a cutting wheel and grind around it to get it off the door. I will sell the whole rear set for 20. But if I have to break up the set, it will be 15 for one side.

@John Dino, I do have the set of rear door hinges. The only reason why I didn't put them up for sale is because I could not get them off. However, I am willing to try again for you. It will be a little while before I can get to it because I will be on vacation in a couple days. I will get back to you when I am back. Thank you.

Temperature gauge is sold.

More than one way to skin a cat! I love it.

I will send you my email address.

Yes Sir. How are you @GrandpaJerry? The gauge will work on your car. Send me a PM and we will set it up. Thank you.

No Sir. The gauge that I am selling only fits Supers and Roadmasters. On the parts car, the original temp gauge was broken. So, a previous owner took the gauge (that I am selling) and installed in place of where the clock goes. That's how I wound up with this thing.

Sold the set of rear ventilator window assemblies.

Removing the steering column here, as shown.Loosen the clamp bolt shown here.Go back inside the car and remove the screws that holds down the steering column rubber seal at the firewall. Next, simultaneously pull back on the steering column while firmly wiggling it out of the socket. Take your time. Once you pull it off the socket, turn the steering column counterclockwise until the shifting arm clears the firewall opening.Now, you can pull it out. You will also remove 2 different steering column seals with the steering column itself. Showing the site of removal.Showing the steering column after removal.Overall, this was an easy task. Onto the power steering gear, as shown.Remove the pitman arm nut shown here.A pitman arm removal tool is necessary for this.My tool wouldn't fit, so I had to hammer the tool into place until centered. Tighten the tool until pitman arm pops or slides off the spline.Now, remove the 4 bolts shown here.These bolts hold down 2 pairs of clamps on the opposite side. While removing the 4th bolt, hold the power steering gear in place so that it doesn't fall off of the frame to prevent injury and/or damage. Once both clamps and bolts have been removed, pick up the power steering gear off the frame. Showing the site after removal.Showing the power steering gear after removal.Overall, this was an easy task. Just take note that this part has a decent amount of weight on it to be prepared.

This time, I removed the steering wheel as shown.I took the center nut and screwed it back down about 2 or 3 threads.I then used a steering wheel puller in conjunction with a socket as shown to avoid damaging the grounding button for the horn.I sprayed a little WD-40 into the splines to help. Slowly tighten the puller. The steering wheel will either slide off or snap off. Showing the site after removal.Showing the steering wheel after removal.Overall, this was an easy task. Next, I removed the item shown here. I don't know the proper name of it. So, I will just call it the steering column seal and firewall vent assembly.Remove 3 nuts along the curved brace below the steering column penetration.Remove the curved brace. You will then remove the 2 screws shown here on either side of the column.You can now carefully pry the seal and vent off of the firewall until separated.Showing the site after removal.Showing the vent and seal assembly after remova.Overall, this was an easy task.

Now that I am done with the parts car, it's back to the business with my main car. Next order of business was removing the hood springs shown here.First thing you need to do is to secure the hood as shown. I used a 2x4 to hold it open. I don't have any special tools to remove these springs. I just had to be resourceful with what I had. Both my Daddy and Grandaddy both would say, "More than one way to skin a cat". I used a light weight chain, a pole from my old carport and a double sided locking chain loop. Here's a picture of how I set it up.Lock the chain loop at bottom of spring. Make a loop out of the chain and lock it to bottom end of chain loop. Stick something rigid through the chain loop and rest one end of it under the frame to create a lever. Rest the other end of the lever against the tire for stability. Use your body weight and gently push down on the lever with your foot.Once the spring's hook clears the body of the car, slowly lift your foot back up and your spring should be free. Repeat these steps on other side. Here's a shot of the site after removal.A shot of the hood springs after removal.Overall, this was an easy task. Next, I removed the hood as shown.The hood is pretty heavy and I was removing it by myself. So, I placed a couple of 2x4's under the hood and rested them on the body and the front end of the frame, creating a slope. Keep in mind that the 2x4 holding the hood up is still in place.Next, remove the 3 bolts shown here (both sides).Once removed, you can set the ends of the hood on the sloped 2x4's as shown.You can now remove the 2x4 that was holding the hood open and lay the hood down on the sloping 2x4's as shown.You can now gently slide the hood down the set of 2x4's. You will probably need to keep shifting the hood hinges forward to clear obstructions.Once the hood is close to the ground, stand the hood up on the 2x4's and walk it down the rest of the way until the hood clears the 2x4's. Hood is removed. Showing the site after removal.Showing the hood after removal.Overall, this was an easy task.

More pictures of Front Seat Door Sill Plates (price at end of previous post)

I am very happy (and relieved) to say that I am finally done with the parts car. All parts that were kept are boxed and stored while all other parts will be sold for cheap! If anyone is interested in some parts, I created a thread in the Buick - buy and sell forum. Just click here.

Most, if not all of these parts can also possibly fit years 54 and 56 Buick Sedans. Check for compatibility. Please also note that I don't plan on keeping these parts for long if they do not sell. Parts are priced very cheaply for this reason. Rear Window Glass (very good condition) $50 *JUNKED* Front Windshield Glass (fair condition) $30 *SOLD* Rear Seat (fair condition) $50 *SOLD* Front Seat (fair condition) $50 *NO LONGER FOR SALE* *More pictures in next post* Roof (good condition) $75 *JUNKED* Frame (good condition) $100 *JUNKED* Front Door Hinges Box and Strap (good condition) Set= $20 One side= $15 Non-Buick Seat Belt Set (good condition) $10 Center Pillar Covers (good condition) Set= $15 One= $10 Rear Window Moulding (very good condition) $10 Front Windshield Moulding (good condition) $20 *SOLD* Headliner Bows Set (good condition) $10 Temperature Gauge (good condition, registers temperature, only fits 50/70 series Buicks) $15 *SOLD* Upper Door Window Reveal Moulding (very good condition) Set= $25 One= $10 Front Door Ventilator (good condition) Set= $40 *SOLD* Rear Door Ventilator (poor condition) Set= $10 *SOLD* Door Handle/Lock Linkage Assembly (very good condition) Set= $30 One= $10 Door Window Garnish Moulding (good condition) Set= $25 One= $10 *FRONT SET SOLD* Door Window Manual Regulators (very good condition) Set= $30 *SOLD* Door Inner Panel Access Hole Cover (good condition) $10 Door Sill Plate (fair condition) Set= $15 One= $5 *pictures provided in next post*

A Father's Day gift from my Wife. The clock was made to look similar to a dash clock on a 55 Buick! Happy Father's Day to all.

I don't know, but it's growing on me. The body seems like it belongs there with the garage in the background. Makes it look like a car shop from a tv show. If the kids were out of the house, I'd probably keep it.

@MrEarl, got a small trick for that issue when posting many photos...when you get to the point where get that message "Max total size 9.77", just click "OK" and then scroll all the way back up to the top of the forum your in and click the button to back out of that forum. Once out, go right back in to the forum you left your uploaded photos in (they will still be there). You can now continue to upload more photos. You can do this as many times as you need until you upload all the pictures you want. Didn't mean to hijack this thread but I know you have been upset with this for a while.

Bought this power brake set through facebook.I have been buying Buick parts off and on for the last 5 years and I must say, this one was a bad experience. There was no care taken in boxing up the parts. I was missing a couple of parts and one of the parts was damaged. Thank God I didn't pay much. Power braking parts, compliments of facebook.

I totally agree. And you are very welcome Mr Al.

@1953mack, I looked at the specific locations on the frame as you suggested and look what I found. I had to sand and clean the area well, but I found it in this spot, just below the blue flashlight shown in this photo.Here are a couple of shots at different angles, but you can somewhat make it out.The VIN on my parts car is 6 B6010190. I could only make out 8 stamps. Out of those 8 stamps, I could only read the last 6 which says 010190. The first stamp is impossible to read while the 2nd stamp looks like it could definitely be a 6. So there you go. 1955 Buick frames do carry a stamp on them...at least in my case. I will look for this on my main car and report that when the time comes. Also, for those with little resources but need to move a frame around without help, it can be done. It was time to move the parts car frame out of the garage. I decided to take the rear end and use it as a dolly. I placed a 2 x 4 on top of the frame to rest the front of the torque tube on while I rested the very ends of the frame on top of the shaft housing of the rear end. I put on my work out belt for my back and some gloves. The frame is extremely heavy, but I was able to lift the other end and roll it where it needed to go. After you park it, just back the rear end up and roll the rear end from the frame. On to the next thing.

I am finally at the end with the parts car. The entire power brake system was removed. I was able to fully save all of the hard lines to template new ones with.The rear end is removed.And the frame is fully disassembled.The body is already placed to the side.Now I need to organize and box all of the remaining parts that I intend on keeping. Everything else will be put up for sale very soon. Can't wait to resume work on my main car again.

A detail of mounting points on the frame for power brake components.

Thank you. I will take look tomorrow and report back.

Just a detail of the entire power brake system before I remove it.

Wow. I hate to hear this. I also send my condolences Sir.