Beemon

Members
  • Content Count

    2,769
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

Beemon last won the day on May 2

Beemon had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,432 Excellent

2 Followers

About Beemon

  • Rank
    Unorthodox Restorer
  • Birthday 12/19/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, WA
  • Interests:
    Cars, Women

Converted

  • Biography
    I'm a 23 year old college student trying to piece together my grandfather's old beauty.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,510 profile views
  1. I'm adding to the wishlist here. Holley/MSD just recently came out with a coil-on-plug driver system that uses their distributors with a blank cap. I think having two LS coils on each side of the valve cover breather with some type of throttle body injection would really wake this old 322 up. I guess if you take the MSD nailhead distributor and gut it with replacement hall effect stuff on the inside, all the billet bases are the same so you just throw the blank cap on there. Then you can have either one of their Sniper units or a stand alone coil driver fire the plugs with a programmable map. I think I've just about given up on doing dual quads at some point. The air cleaner really completes the engine and I just think it would look silly without it. I thought about the Chevy/Cadillac/HEMI dual quad air cleaner but there's no guarantee it will fit and its pretty massive. I think the only thing that would cause me to give up the original air cleaner would be a McCulloch supercharger setup, but good luck finding one of those.
  2. There are three different Nailhead filter housings: Big canister, 3 bolt spin on and later 4 bolt spin on. Pictured above is the 3 bolt spin on housing, which comes with a bypass valve built into it. The oil filter used is still available. Most will spec the 1049 filter, which was special order for me. When I got it, it did not have an anti drain-back valve in it. I then tried a 1258 filter, which does but its a bit shorter. The modern GM oil filter 1522 will also work, its taller than the 1258 by about a quarter inch but its skinnier. Currently I have been running the 1258 filter. The 1258 is also a black painted housing versus the 1049 I got that was white painted... I'm not sure the difference. If the 1258 filter becomes obsolete, the 1522 will be available as long as the LS platform is around. The filter is only $8, too. If you do this, you need to put the fourth bolt hole in like I did because it's a thru hole. Centerville does sell an adapter for the later 4 bolt spin on housings to work on the earlier Nailheads. @FireballV8 I don't think the issue is relatively availability, but more so how long it's sat on the shelf and if whether or not the paper element has broken down into dust fibers.
  3. I live 20 miles from the local warehouse and the filters were starting to get scarce along with points sets. It was too the point that the warehouse had to special order a distributor rotor before I converted to the late model distributor. Even though NAPA prides itself on keeping cars on the road, the Chevy/ Ford/ Chrysler aftermarket has made a huge dent on the OEM suppliers, or so I was told by the manager. So they're making less in less frequent batches. This alone prompted me to buy a spin on housing from a 59-60 (I believe is the years? I'll have to double check. Same time period for Olds also works) that bolted to my 322 without an adapter. I used a mid size filter because the one that is the replacement for the OEM filter does not have a drain back valve in it and that was something I wanted to keep the oil galleries primed. After doing the conversion, I would not go back to the original filter housing. This is so much easier, and lighter. I'll miss the fumble of the original, but not enough.
  4. Usually you need a large pedal ratio for no boost assist on discs, like 6:1. 4:1 is ideal with boost, but it also depends on the booster size as well. Yours looks like a compact design, but pretty long it seems. Did you add an inspection cover to fill or just hope for the best? The stopping ability was the same for me as well. I eventually went back because I could not find NOS ball bearings anymore and although the plastic cups on the rockauto replacement ball bearings never broke, they just didn't feel the same as the worn and pitted bearings (they felt considerably loose or considerably tight, must be a huge tolerance margin in China). The Scarebird kit on my 56 required grinding down the corners of the calipers to fit the 15" rims. Did you have to do similar? Looks like they are unmodified in your photos. I would not run discs in the stock configuration without a booster, though. The big plus was the cheaper tapered bearings and the auto adjusting distance so there wasn't any more front end pull when braking. If I were to do it again, I would go with the Wilwood dual piston design. I am also planning to machine a hub spacer between the hub and rim so its hub centric and not lug centric, its my one complaint right now.
  5. I might have a spare but I will not be home until Halloween weekend..
  6. The grill trim pieces should be the same between all models. When you find one, the best way I've found to mount them is to get one of those U clips to push over the hole on the trim end then use a flange head screw from the back side to retain. The original flat clips usually do not survive the 60 years.
  7. Glad to hear its running strong, Ken! You can't go wrong with that 56 322. Advertised 255 HP and 341 ft lbs of torque. After my rebuild fiasco and finding (granted worn out) original running 322, having the heads rebuilt and adding the 1.6:1 rockers really woke it up. Dreading the day I have to do the bottom end because as you found, pistons are rare. I'll most likely need to get some custom made. On the 7.5 timing, the 56 motor really does not like more than 5, at least in my case. Could be different with yours being punched out. I have a 64 401 distributor in mine that I rebuilt and bushed myself to have less than .015" end play and I put stock curve springs in it. I was told the dual quad timing curve is the best for all nailheads but I am not sure the validity of that claim on a 322, which is much different from the 364/401/425. Regardless, I found going to the 401 distributor to be very beneficial. I also added an Accel dual point conversion to it and bought a repro dual window cap from Brillman Co. and it has been running absolutely flawless. Curious about your mention of vibration. What was it and what did you do to fix it?
  8. I know you solved your issue, but never assume that because the work was done by a professional, it was done "right". You'd be surprised.
  9. What tires are you going to kick?
  10. Silly question but did you chase the headlight leads to see if you're getting 12V before you tear into the switch?
  11. The only one I know of is the guy that sells the steering box conversion kit.. I probably wouldn't trust it, though. Any steering repair shop should be able to replace the ball end, though. That's the one thing I haven't found at the hardware store.
  12. Bump again I know this is a diamond in the rough piece but I am determined to find it
  13. As long as the play is in the drag link only, it is very easy to rebuild. The shop manual explains how to set it up for manual vs power steering. They use the same link IIRC but different guts.