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Beemon last won the day on May 2 2019

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About Beemon

  • Birthday 12/19/1991

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  1. Keep using it, the repro arms are skinnier. I threw mine in the trash because the points arced and welded together and broke the arm. You can have these re-wound by a generator/ starter repair shop, too.
  2. I have never used lube on any part of the switch. If it were mine, I'd clean it out and leave it without grease. You really don't want anything getting stuck or clogged in this circuit.
  3. So you guys remember when I started talking about vibration issues when driving the car? Well I think I figured it out, sort of. I'm not sure when this happened. Its kind of the wrong time of the year to do stuff with cars, but looks like I'll have a weekend project of aligning the front end myself. At least to within reason. It'll be difficult with tires like these, so I'll rotate them first, then align it. Hopefully with my second or third paycheck I can invest in some nice white walls, and then align it again. My car still rides on original suspension equipment, but I've watched the car move through full travel and there doesn't seem to be any type of play in any of the bushings. When I first got the car, the grease was still soft where it was thin, but solid where it wasn't. I cleaned the living daylights out of all that stuff and it pushes fresh grease without issue. The only thing I threw out of whack was the tie-rod adjustment. If I remember correctly, reading one of @old-tank's posts, he used an app on his phone to use the built in gyroscope for measuring angles. Since I'm back home, here's a vanity picture of the fleet in good ol' Wetstern Washington.
  4. Hi Ben, I think I posted about it in Post War, but I don't blame you if nothing came up in the search bar. I can never find what I'm looking for with it. The donor vehicle was a 1968 Buick Riviera, but any 12 inch drum brake Buick past I believe 1964 will work. Unfortunately they do not sell the adjuster arm new, so you need to find a good used pair at the junkyard. I found two cars and put them on the front and rears, but I had trouble finding a local shop that did custom brake lining so I went to a disc kit on the front (one I had purchased before). I still have them on the rears and they work perfect. Here is the set installed on the front. All of the springs and associated hardware was bought NEW from NAPA. I don't remember part numbers, but you can find them on RockAuto or the NAPA catalogs. You might have to search different years or models on both sites. I used to have an excel sheet, but I think I lost it when I lost my backup thumb drive (irony). This is the replacement override spring on the left with the originals on the right. I don't know when they changed the design but they are and work the same as the originals. Hope this helps!
  5. I've been working this degree since 2010, the same year I started my Buick and the same year I graduated after the death of my grandmother. It's been a long road, getting sucked into the politics of community college, but I wouldn't give it up. I started my Buick project to save my grandfather from grief but it ultimately helped both of us get through life in our own ways. Im glad that despite all the shortcomings, he at least got to see the car painted again before he passed. I don't plan to go anywhere. Sometimes out of spite I threaten to sell the car, but I could never part with it because it has become not only a part of me and a part of who I am, but also the revival of my grandfather's spirit and I couldn't give that away.
  6. Well I officially graduated on Saturday. They have it kind of backwards, because I still have classes until the end of the week, but I'm glad because it looks like I'll be able to leave Wednesday at the latest. Then its back to Me and my Buick.
  7. The distributor vacuum advance line is 1/8" copper tubing (just like the stuff you get in the oil pressure line replacement kits at the auto parts store). I forget the name of the compression fitting that goes into the carb and vacuum advance, but you can buy them at NAPA, Weatherhead P/N 6100x2 for 1/8". They look like this: You could splice it with 1/8" ID vacuum tubing if you want.
  8. I wonder if it would be possible to use a laser engraving CNC machine to cut these out of a thin nylon sheet.
  9. You can also buy a standard Edelbrock/Carter AFB electric choke, flip the spring and install it like the heat pipe choke. I think there is even a listing on ebay that has this swap already done and should be a bolt on retrofit. The hot air choke will only work properly if the butterfly and counterweight are free to spin on the exhaust manifold, and the thermostatic spring that tensions it is in good working order. If this piece is stuck in the open position or it is missing the spring, then it will not allow proper heat circulation between the intake and exhaust manifolds to properly operate the choke. How fast it opens also depends on your ambient weather local to you (people in Texas will have an easier time than people in Wisconsin). I have tried several times to get mine to work and I have never got it to open and close properly, even with replacing the old choke spring with a new one. I live in Washington state and used to drive my car in 10*F weather conditions. The electric choke has never left me stranded, but the old heat pipe has (in terms of having to pop the hood and manually hold it open/closed). In my latest configuration, I bought a pre-formed brake line roughly the same size as my old hot air choke tube, cut the end off one side and affixed the proper fitting for the choke housing. I then crimped and sealed the end of the tube with a vacuum cap that dangles back behind the engine. It is retained with a cheap metal tube holder off of the back of the block in one of the empty head bolts and it looks stock, you cannot tell its a fake unless you sit on top of the air cleaner.
  10. There is only one vacuum line on that carb, and that's the rubber line going to the distributor. The line to the choke is a hot air tube that is supposed to come from the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, usually right above the thermostatic flapper valve.
  11. Sorry, I've just searched 1956 Buick air conditioning and it always pops up. I don't know if he is a member her or not, but he also made modern brake systems, too.
  12. Without getting too much into heat transfer stuff, there is some degree of dwell time but from every lab test I've conducted on campus with cross-flow heat exchangers, faster flow of coolant through the hot stuff always equals better heat transfer. Think of it like this. The coolant contacts the surface of the hot stuff only on the outside of the flow volume. The more turbulent the flow, the more it "mixes" the flow so it constantly takes the fluid in contact with the outside and swaps places with the inside colder stream, until it reaches a saturation temperature if given enough time to dwell.
  13. To keep the axle from rotating you would weld the U- bolt cup to the axle at the natural angle the trailing arms attach to the axle. When doing suspension work, you need to make sure you do everything under full weight of the car, which can be difficult if your axle is disconnected. Otherwise, you can potentially throw out all of your important arc angles. Take measurements of where the axle sits before the mod and then when everything is disconnected, try sand put the axle back in the correct place with the correct pinion angle.
  14. I don't know who the guy is but there's someone making firewall mounted AC systems. You could reach out to him on ebay and see if he'd be interested in making something for you. He's done 54-56 buick, olds and cadillacs so far.
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