Beemon

My pcv system only works above 25 mph.

I found some things after pulling my other cap. Is excess oil under the points normal? And point discoloration? also the cap #1 terminal is black. This is probably the main culprit right here. Regarding the new distributor, the old condenser was bad, i was getting a very beautiful bright blue spark when cranking the engine over. I put the other condenser back in and the spark from opening was more normal looking. I rotated the vacuum advance to the near correct location based on the copper vacuum line and put #1 cable at the terminal facing #1, then chased it around. Without looking at the timing, it started right up without effort and idled. I didn't bother setting the timing because it was good enough for tonight and it was getting late. I'm hoping to drive in tomorrow, so I'll throw the timing light on it tomorrow morning.

Yeah that is my mistake, it all makes sense and aligns now. I should do a better job at reading the fine print next time. Thanks for the clarification. After phone call with Willie this afternoon, I'm going to stab it in tomorrow and see if I can get dwell around 29 degrees. That way I can get it out of the garage to swap steering box and then sway bar.

I went back and looked at that manual. Full advance on that table posted above is wrong per the manual, the manual shows full advance all in at 3500 RPM. 🤔

I didn't remove the mechanical advance retainer, maybe I'll do that tonight. One thing to note, the weight plate is supposed to be installed ridges down against the weights per the shop manual. This one is installed "up" with ridges out. That sounds close enough to me. I was trying to watch both the gauge and the advance at the same time, so with human error taken into account I'd say it's spot on. I brought up earlier that the distributor was over advancing. I was looking at the shop manual, and the advance curve in the book also keeps advancing forever, so it seems normal to an extent. No one has a distributor machine anymore, so if the advance weights weigh the same as the 65 distributor, I might put the recurve springs in.

Brad's sway bar showed up today, but I need to figure out this ignition issue first. I pulled the breaker plate, and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Nuts are staked, both springs, and the advance snaps open and close. Doesn't seem like anything was amiss there. My spare distributor has no springs. I'd really like to take it apart and weigh the weights in the 65 distributor I have in now and compare it to the 56 weights. This was my spare, does anyone know what the 75 means? Probably lobe profile? My original distributor isn't stamped, but I know it's original because the cam gear has never been removed. There does not appear to be excess play or looseness with the cam lobe. I started reassembling. I'm going on a gamble, because the engine that's in the car was a runner, I stole the NOS Delco Remy condenser. I need to go back and re-wrap the points wire, the braided wire is fraying, but not touching anything. I routed the wires per the shop manual I tested the vacuum advance with a mity-vac, it opens fully at 10 in Hg, and closes at 5 in Hg. I didn't see any mention of this in the shop manual, so I'll assume this is normal. It is fully functional, and holds vacuum. I tried putting the replacement cap on, but it didn't fit in the slot, so I grabbed the NOS one with the copper lugs, and it fit just fine. I have two rotors, one rotor hits 4 of the lugs and is NOS, and the other one is unmarked replacement (NAPA I think), and it doesn't hit. Confirmed same condition on the parts distributor. I wish these things would go together easy. I'm going to try and file a bit of plastic to get the replacement cap to fit, and see if I can get a consistent rotation without contacting lugs.

I'm good for now, I had two Pertronix units before, and the starter ate them. Stock 4x fan blade Stock fan shroud 3 core recored radiator rodded before Spokane 180 thermostat verified with heat plate Unless the impeller on the water pump is slipping on the shaft, the only thing that appears to be wrong is the timing. I just went through all my stuff and found my original distributor, so I'll start digging into it in the next couple of days. Also anxiously anticipating Brad's sway bar coming in the mail.

Okay so I've been having overheating issues. My radiator was flushed, confirmed thermostat working, water pump questionable but it was rebuilt 5 years ago. Symptoms are cooling at speed, but run on heat soak at idle, poor idle, rough running. My first thought was to check timing. I typically lock in at 5 degrees, the timing mark was showing 7. Next I checked dwell, it was sitting at 36. I have a dual point breaker plate so I blocked the secondary points. The primary points were reading 28 degrees, so I set it back to 26 and blocked it off. Then I tried to start the car with the secondary points and it wouldn't. I had to brush the points before it would fire, they measured at 29 so I reset back to 26. Then started again and dwell was 26. With both points unblocked. The car ran perfect with the secondary points blocked so I think there may be some type of short. Regardless, I don't know why I decided to do dual points. All things considered, the the tach never sees above 3200 RPM unless you're pushing some speed on the highway so why bother? Now I need to dig through my parts bin and find a single point breaker plate. I think I might go as far to put my old distributor back in. I originally removed it because it was over advancing, most likely the advance limit or something.

Legally I cannot tell you how fast we were going until the statute of limitations is up in 2 years. But yes, it was comparable to all but the Blue Porsche and the Orange BMW.

It's a really nice design feature, similar to how Buick added port holes in the mid 2010s and brought back the sweep spear. Those cars look ugly though, the Sportback was peak design, I'm really sad they stopped selling them in the states.

I got it all back in. At some point I need to pull the sense bulb out, straighten it and replace the insulation hose on the outside. Man that was a huge PITA trying to get it lined back up in the HVAC hose. Hopefully that seal lasts another 60 years because that was some BS. I think aside from the sense bulb routing, the bowden cable was equally frustrating. Then I found the screw but the cable hold down is no where to be found. It wasn't in my parts bag either, so now it's just sitting in there. Hopefully I can find a replacement like in the lawn mower cable repair section at the hardware store. Got a chance to do a couple laps around the neighborhood as well. Next weekend I'll do the steering box swap I think, gotta find my pitman arm puller and a hose clamp to keep the reservoir from dumping all over. My thoughts is get some inverted flare caps and try to be fast. It was nice to get it out of the garage. Here it is, my Buick next to grandpa's Buick.

I went out with some other guys this weekend to drive the old Washington cascade loop in the GS yesterday.

If you want to bypass auto start stop (ASS) you can shift it to "manual" and then back. Or pump the brake, it's kinda annoying.

I finally did it. The seal arrived today from ebay. It took me a solid while to remember what the hell I did last year. The ranco valve is now sitting in a bowl full of water. I'm not that confident to dump coolant just yet, but so far so good! Up next is to swap out my steering box courtesy of John and then I'm back on the road.

Hi Dobrini, I had to dig for this one. All you really need to know is that it's a double pulley, you use the outside one, and a bunch of hardware store spacers. It's not the best, but it gets the job done. I rebuilt the generator and use it exclusively. This is now more of a backup, and I haven't really needed it. It's really ugly.