NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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1 minute ago, Beemon said:

Looks like it's time to drop the gas tank. 

&^&&%#$%#!!!!!   I've already had it off once...

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Man, tha's some more pretty original chrome on that baby. Diggin them dog ear mirrors hangin down too!! 

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3 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

&^&&%#$%#!!!!!   I've already had it off once...

 

should be a piece of cake this time then!!

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I'll just add it to the list of projects that will happen when I take it offline again.   

P/S, carpet, headliner, fix under seat heater, door weather strip, and carb rebuild  For now I don't want it sitting, I want it driving.

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19 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Fuel gauge issue is perhaps just a lose ground wire. 

Loose ground should make it go to empty I

think

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Loose ground should make it go to empty I

think

 

Should read full if ground is poor or disconnected if I remember correctly.

 

  

If your gauge reads FULL AT ALL TIMES:

A. Probable Causes

Wire from dash gauge to sending unit is broken and/or the connection is corroded (not making a good electrical connection).
 

Resistance wire inside sending unit is broken
 

Sending unit is not properly grounded to tank or tank is not properly grounded to chassis

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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Easy enough to disconnect in the trunk and see what the gauge reading is and then ground the wire to the gauge and see what that is.

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24 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Easy enough to disconnect in the trunk and see what the gauge reading is and then ground the wire to the gauge and see what that is.

Hmmmm. I'll try that

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With a full reading on the gauge you might have an inadvertent ground somewhere in the system, not a bad or disconnected ground.  

 

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7 hours ago, old-tank said:

Easy enough to disconnect in the trunk and see what the gauge reading is and then ground the wire to the gauge and see what that is.

 

This is the right answer. On a GM fuel gauge of this vintage, the sender is 0-30 ohms, with 30 ohms being full. A pegged gauge indicates an open circuit. If you disconnect the wire to the tank the gauge should peg. Probably the wire has either broken or fallen off, or there is no ground on the tank, or the sending unit failed.

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1 minute ago, Bloo said:

 

This is the right answer. On a GM fuel gauge of this vintage, the sender is 0-30 ohms, with 30 ohms being full. A pegged gauge indicates an open circuit. If you disconnect the wire to the tank the gauge should peg. Probably the wire has either broken or fallen off, or there is no ground on the tank, or the sending unit failed.

Sending unit then.  There's a brand new ground wire from the frame directly to the sending unit... that was the first thing I checked. 

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I would still ground the sending unit wire temporarily and make sure it pulls the gauge down to "e".

 

I don't know exactly what the 54 sending unit looks like, but I'm guessing when you get it out you will find that some rivet corroded off and let the resistor loose.

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 kind of off topic, but I found my spare wiper switch I pulled off of a 55 for my electric wiper conversion (don't bother with electric, the motor is weak and makes the blades slap the stainless). It should be the same, if not similar, but its pretty simple in design. Hopefully this helps when you get to it. I must note there wasn't a rubber washer with this unit, but would probably be a good idea to add one. 

20171122_173738.jpg

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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Beemon...I  have  the Newport system installed on my 56.. Can't say I find the motor weak.. Although there isn't a big difference between slow and fast.. As for the blades slapping the stainless.. When you installed the motor did you remove the arms and then reinstall them or did you leave them installed.. You're suppose to remove the arms then install the motor..I  had  to tinker with the arm indexing and I had to tighten my shaft pullies which was the opposite direction of what I had read.. But now no problems for a few years even in nasty down pours. Just food for thought.

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My car came factory with cam-o-matic wipers. When I enquired, because they were factory stock on the Roadmaster and optional on other series, the guy informed me it would not matter. Cam-o-matic wipers sweep further than regular and are controlled with a vacuum signal to the return cam in the vacuum motor. Needless to say, this was not accounted for in their "engineered for your application" motor and no amount of removing and repositioning the wiper arms fixed this, nor did adjusting the sweep of the motor. I say it's weak because the motor would not sweep across a dry windshield - my vacuum wipers do. A 55-57 Chevy motor would be a better investment if you can make it work, imo. Much stronger motor, though it would probably slap, too, considering Chevy didn't use the cam-o-matic system with their electric motor. 

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Ah gotcha didn't realize yours came with the cam o matic..I  was  always wondering if those would create a problem kinda figured it would... Mine has no problem with a dry windshield... My first car was a 59 Chevy truck that had the factory two speed electric set up.. Talk about powerful.. Low was about what you'd expect but high man I always thought my arms were going to fly off lol...I  had thought about using that set up on my Buick but didn't feel like trying to adapt it etc.

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 running all my weekend errands in the Buick.... I go to leave the gas station and I guess the horn contact decided to suddenly start working and everytime I turn the steering wheel it's beeping..... ??

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13 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

 running all my weekend errands in the Buick.... I go to leave the gas station and I guess the horn contact decided to suddenly start working and everytime I turn the steering wheel it's beeping..... ??

Oooooh auto horn thats a rare feature

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

After reading Willie's low-tech front shocks....  I wondered if these https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/monroe-load-adjusting-shock-absorber-58263/19710809-P?searchTerm=shocks

would have any positive affects on the handling?

 

What type of handling are you looking for?   There was one member that was manufacturing stiffer front sway bars that those who installed claimed to have made a big difference in body roll.  Not sure if he is making these sway bars any longer.   

 

Got a little way to go for this: 

 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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4 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

What type of handling are you looking for?   There was one member that was manufacturing stiffer front sway bars that those who installed claimed to have made a big difference in body roll.  Not sure if he is making these sway bars any longer.   

 

Got a little way to go for this: 

 

 from what I heard that guy just had enough made to justify the minimum order. I'm not looking for a race car or anything I was just curious what the Springs might help with

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