NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

not seeing any big leaks either. 

Fix all leaks, they add up.  If still using coolant pressure test the system.  You might have to pull the plugs for inspection.

Verify that the starter and solenoid are functioning as designed:  Jump 12v+ to the 10 gauge black wire from the solenoid at the  starter relay (be sure it is in Park or Neutral since the neutral safety switch is bypassed).  If it cranks normally, then jump across the leads to the starter switch on the carb (carefull, since these wires are not fuse protected)...if normal crank remove the switch and clean contacts...if abnormal look at the starter relay:  dress the contacts with a point file and if some rivets are corroded drill through the edge and install a small screw until you get a new one.

And keep working and paying taxes; old farts like me will thank you for the  entitlements. :D 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Parked on a tarp covered in white poster board last night, found three leaks. Upper and lower radiator hoses,  right at the clamps and the heater core under the seat....

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On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 5:27 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Unfortunately some of my planned projects on her will need to wait as uncle sam's share that I owe for 2017 ended up being more than I expected.  Tax preparer says at my current income and deductions it will be $2k more next year!  UGH.:blink:  Guess I better get some dependents I can claim........

 

Name your car and get a SS # for it.  That will help.

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5 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Name your car and get a SS # for it.  That will help.

 

Don't mean to sound naive, but can you actually do this? :lol: Don't worry Matt, at least you won't get docked for not having health insurance.

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Drove her all over this weekend.  Now she's dieseling when I cut her off.  Guess I need to go ahead and rebuild the carb and then go through tuning and timing.

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Leave the carb alone!  Check the timing and for sure reduce the idle speed.  If the idle speed has to set high in Park to keep it fast enough in Drive, then check for vacuum leaks (or turn it off while in Drive and be sure to shift to Park right away).  Using higher octane fuel will help, maybe try a different brand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Leave the carb alone!  Check the timing and for sure reduce the idle speed.  If the idle speed has to set high in Park to keep it fast enough in Drive, then check for vacuum leaks (or turn it off while in Drive and be sure to shift to Park right away).  Using higher octane fuel will help, maybe try a different brand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Idle is definitely high, as the car leaps when put in gear, but I've been scared to turn it down and risk the car stalling.  I will turn it down some and check the timing. I did just fill up too... but it was at my usual spot. 

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Drove her all over this weekend.  Now she's dieseling when I cut her off.  Guess I need to go ahead and rebuild the carb and then go through tuning and timing.

You have a vacuum leak, Did the car backfire at any time? The carb is ether loose on the manifold or a line came off or the body to base gasket on the carb is bad. With the aircleaner off see if you can turn the carb back and forth if tight use some carb cleaner and spray it around the carb and intake gaskets while it is running. When you said it was dieseling that is what has me convinced it's a vac. leak. Also if you have power brakes check to see if the booster is leaking.

Edited by retiredmechanic74 (see edit history)
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2 minutes ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

You have a vacuum leak, Did the car backfire at any time? The carb is ether loose on the manifold or a line came off or the body to base gasket on the carb is bad. With the aircleaner off see if you can turn the carb back and forth if tight use some carb cleaner and spray it around the carb and intake gaskets while it is running. When you said it was dieseling that is what has me convinced it's a vac. leak. 

No backfire,  but I did notice after warming up,  my wipers slowed way down. 

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9 minutes ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

I got a feeling the carb is loose.

Interesting.  I'll check it. I did have the carb off back in the summer to fix stuck secondaries.  Surprised it runs so good otherwise if it's got that much vacuum leak.  It's started raining and getting cold,  so I'll save this check for next weekend. 

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)

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15 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

No backfire,  but I did notice after warming up,  my wipers slowed way down.

Check the vacuum lines at the fuel pump and/or  plug the one going to the manifold as a test.

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Interesting.  I'll check it. I did have the carb off back in the summer to fix stuck secondaries.  Surprised it runs so good otherwise if it's got that much vacuum leak.  It's started raining and getting cold,  so I'll save this check for next weekend. 

 the secondaries could be stuck again. It will cause the same symptoms. Generally when a car diesels when shutting down it's because there is a vac. leak below the throttle plates of the carb.

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4 hours ago, Beemon said:

Whats your idle set currently?

No clue,  haven't messed with it at all. 

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Throw a tach on that bad boy. If you don't know, it could be too high. I usually drive 500-600 without issue, except for when the fast idle gets stuck. How's your fast idle working?

 

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3 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Throw a tach on that bad boy. If you don't know, it could be too high. I usually drive 500-600 without issue, except for when the fast idle gets stuck. How's your fast idle working?

 

Haven't paid attention to that either.  I only drive it about once a week and rarely very far.

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Its still could out isn't it? I've noticed with the WCFB, it needs a little bit more attention to the adjustment of the fast idle. Sometimes mine comes off, sometimes it doesn't, so I really need to get back in there and reposition my arm, but as I understand it, it should be set so that when the choke is fully open, the cam is fully down. Confirming fast idle cam movement, fast idle cam and idle RPM is probably what you're dealing with here. Also idle at start up with no fast idle will always be lower than idle before shut off after a long drive, from my experience. Hence the need for fast idle to keep a cold engine running at start up. I'm willing to bet your RPM is just too high and it's deceling because it's turning too fast when you turn the key off.

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Still haven't messed with the carb.  The trans mounts are bad enough now I have a hard time keeping it in reverse.   Changed the fuel filter....was definitely time.

20180221_191808.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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This is the problem I described with the starter a few posts back.... does it even when I bypass the relay.  Will probably pull the starter later today. 

 

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Well your bendix is definitely working. It's most likely the contact in the solenoid got hung up somehow and it's not allowing the armature to spin, or the switch wires are grounding out somewhere. When I did mine, it was a lot of fun with just normal box wrenches.. make sure you have a boxed end that has a 45 degree bend to it to get at the block hugger bolt.

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1 hour ago, Beemon said:

Well your bendix is definitely working. It's most likely the contact in the solenoid got hung up somehow and it's not allowing the armature to spin, or the switch wires are grounding out somewhere. When I did mine, it was a lot of fun with just normal box wrenches.. make sure you have a boxed end that has a 45 degree bend to it to get at the block hugger bolt.

If it is the solenoid, just replace or service that.  Check that the solenoid is transferring 12v to the starter.  If not the solenoid is bad; if 12v to the starter and no spin then the starter is bad.

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1 hour ago, old-tank said:

If it is the solenoid, just replace or service that.  Check that the solenoid is transferring 12v to the starter.  If not the solenoid is bad; if 12v to the starter and no spin then the starter is bad.

 sorry I didn't take photos but we pulled the starter off and completely disassembled the starter and the solenoid.  As it would turn out filling the solenoid and starter with Muddy coolant for years does not help it. (See replaced freeze plug a few months back.) Anyhow the internal contacts on both were very dirty and corroded. Thoroughly cleaned everything up,  reassembled, and so far so good.

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 There's a little copper disc inside the solenoid In the center, and a little copper finger that contacts it.  Those were so boogers up,  lots of delicate sanding with the dremelon low until I had nice new copper surfaces.  The starter will need brushes in the not too distant future,  but for now I cleaned up what I had and moved on. 

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