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Did you ever think you were getting a good deal then didn't?


auburnseeker

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I have been proceeding with finishing off my existing garage while waiting to get started on my new shop.  I gutted all the insulation that was in it and put up new Roxell then went over that with 1 inch of High R foam. 

I agonized over what to put up on the walls and ceiling.  I was originally going to use OSB so I had places to anchor stuff to easily, unlike sheet rock.  I decided that I would need to put something over the OSB as I just hate the cheap look of it.  When I started doing cost analysis of that I decided it wasn't really that cheap to put OSB up.  I started surfing craigslist for alternatives and came up with a place selling units of 3/4 inch by 6 inch Bead board (wainscoting) for 36 cents a lineal foot.   I knew it wouldn't be premium at that price but I can work around the defects as that was more wood than I really needed.  

  I bought a unit of over 4000 lineal feet still sealed up from the mill through a middle man that was just reselling them.  

Well I had a chance to move and restack it,  as the unit was so heavy my tractor could barely pick it off his trailer so I had to break it to move it. 

Right away,  I realized it was a clean up day at the mill type of load.  Almost every board had a huge knot missing out fo the middle or several,  Exposed bark,  Splits so wide you could stick quarters in them and damage from the log loading equipment including large holes punched through the boards .  I changed plans thinking instead of running it horizontally on the walls I would run it vertical.  That meant I only needed 9 foot pieces.  I went through the whole pile again at it's new location and pulled every board I thought I could somehow squeeze 9 usable feet out of.  When I only came up with half as many as I needed, I had to change plans again and put in a chair rail.   It's alot easier to find a 77 inch piece and a 33 inch piece than 108 inch piece.  I still almost came up short.  I will have plenty of pieces to rip cases and jambs from, that's for sure.  Fortunately some of the damaged wood is pretty clean on the back so I made a separate stack for that stuff.  Lemonade out of lemons right? 

  So the shop will have a whitewashed upper portion with a semigloss finish and the bottom will be a mahogany toned Gloss wood finish as well as all the trim and windows.  My wife said way too nice as it's only a garage not an art gallery.  I asked her is it?  

  I have a bunch of framed vintage advertising as well as signs to hang up when it's done.  I plan on doing the ceiling in bead board as well with the mahogany tone.  It's actually a mix with cherry so it's not super dark.  It resembles aged fir with a nice gloss finish.

I do realize now that's going to be alot of sanding and I can't find my sander since I moved the shop, so it's back to the hardware to buy one. 

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I have used OSB as a backer under gypsum board many times in kitchens and baths. It appears to be more expensive but it goes give you complete fastening coverage unlike individual blocking. The savings is in the labor, where you can sheet a room in a couple of hours but it takes all day to place blocking and you don't have to worry about mounting points. It also strengthens the wall and adds a little soundproofing. Sometimes cheaper isn't always better.

 

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You should have specified number 1 or at least number 2 and better, if you don't they will bundle this type and put some # 1 on top so it looks good, I have been woodworker and carpenter my whole life, and ya if you don't make certain demands you get it tucked to you,,,,took me a few times to learn this, so don't feel bad your not the only one they have screwed this way,,,, 

by the way great cars,,,,,

 

Edited by knobless
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I worked for a whole sale supplier to the cabinet making industry for a couple of years on sales side.  The smart craftsmen reallized that hardwood plywoods and other materials were not commodities where price is only thing that matters - manufacturer does make a difference.  That said, as Knobless points out, stacking the deck on a unit of board like that is kind of a dirty trick.  I might have done the same thing though Seeker, as you have another big job ahead of you.  Plus, you have already figured out how to resolve the issue - can't wait to see the results.

 

On another note, that is one cool looking roadster hiding in the corner.  We know all about the Cord and recent pick up, but "what up with the hot rod?"  Maybe you won't be chastised too much for posting a couple pics of that one and perhaps some detail on it? :)

 

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I would hang the boards the way you want them to go. Place some of the knot holes in spots that you can have some fun with. A glass eye in a few of them will get people doing a double take. Hang some car art over a few, cord/hose reels over some. Place the worst behind benches. Have fun with it, make it eclectic . Those are the best shops when they are different and unique. If working in there, fire hazards with wood would be my concern. You got the stuff at a good price, make it unique. And if the Cord is in your way, you can store it here. Just trying to help.  

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There won't be alot of hard core work and there will be plenty of fire extinguishers.  When you loose one car to a fire,  you get a bit paranoid.  Once you get cars burning in a garage,  it probably doesn't matter what's on the walls as there are alot of other combustibles in any shop with cars and the building will probably be destroyed either way if you don't get it out right away. 

The Cord is in the way,  but that's a long way to haul it for storage.  I appreciate the offer though ;)

I knew it wasn't being sold as top shelf,  but didn't imagine they would stuff quite that much junk together.  The way I figured it out,  there will be no missing knots, cracks or other damage.  It took alot of harvesting,  but I got what will look good.  In the end the price was still good as it's more than double that per foot for good stuff.  I did almost all the trim work at my old house with reclaimed wood or cull from Home depot.  If you are good with making stuff work,  you can almost work with anything.   Budget was a concern as well.  I have money from selling my shop,  but that's for the new shop and I'm trying not to touch it to get this project done.  Should look nice when it's all done.   Just a little more labor and 5 days on a unit of lumber to cut what I needed.  I stacked all the shorter stuff on a pallet and brought that in the shop yesterday so all the wood is acclimating.  I do even have a use for alot of the junk wood.  I need to rip nailers and alot of it is clear just damaged on the side I wanted to use,  so for extension jambs and casings,  I'll have plenty to pick from.  I already sorted that out in the unit.

  I actually looked into a friends plain pine boards and it cost him .30 a foot just to get them planed,  not milled with the beads/ tongue and groove. 

 

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When I was building my garage and addition several years ago, I had a similar experience.  The main area of the existing house has a cathedral ceiling and bead board that was milled to an old, out-of-production pattern.  I wanted to match the new bead board pattern with the old pattern, and my only recourse at the time was to have some wood custom milled.  After finding a custom shop in Orlando (FL) and paying for a custom cutting "knife", the wood was finally delivered.  I had told the mill that while a FEW knots were O.K., I wanted clean, straight wood suitable for an interior clear (varnished) finish.  Well, the wood showed up, and it didn't look much better than the stuff you received.  I takes a lot to anger me, but this just set me off, and I started a rant about the mill and the dumbash that milled such poor quality wood etc., etc.  It turns out that the delivery driver was the dumbash who milled the wood:o, but he never said a word during my rant:D.  I sent the load back to the mill, and several days later received a load of acceptable wood.  If I had it to do over again, I would not go the custom-milled route: instead, I'd just choose a bead board pattern that was close enough.  After all, who but yours truly is gonna notice anyway? 

 

I chocked it up to a learning experience; however, as the old saying goes:  "I'm too soon old and too late smart".

 

Cheers,

Grog

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2 minutes ago, bobg1951chevy said:

Did you ever think you were getting a good deal then didn't?

This is the story of my life.

 

I was going to say every time I buy a project car...  Heck, some of the most expensive cars I've owned were ones I got for free. :D

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I've laid up quite a bit of that wainscoting and know that you can lay them end to end if your lengths aren't long enough and those butt joints virtually disappear when the finish is applied. Historical buildings may look like all the boards are full-length, but there will be lots of end-to-end joints. That adds a bit of character and shows it's the real stuff and not plastic or faked plywood panels. I'd cut around the blemishes and make lengths to correspond to the structure and go for it! Just a suggestion...

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I already cut all the good (what there was that was intact) to length.  I've done alot of woodworking and camp finishing so I'm real familiar with joining the pieces as all the rooms were well over 20 foot.  If you miter it at a 45 it becomes more invisible except the change in grain,  unless you take the time to try to match that.  One of my customers was particular enough,  he would have me do stuff like that. 

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My wife said way too nice as it's only a garage not an art gallery. " ....

 

Sorry but I agree with your wife on that .....

 

You have a good woman there - listen to what she is telling you ....

 

My first marriage ....

 

And my second marriage ....

 

To the same woman ......

 

Were the two biggest mistakes of my life.

 

Yeah - I make really bad choices in certain areas of my life .....

 

 

Jim

Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)
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I like finished garages.  Unfinished just seems dark and damp.  I'm going to be spending alot of time in their.  I want it to be a place I want to be.  Reasonably cheap to heat, dry and bright with a touch of class.  I like quality fine carpentry and it's not a big deal for me to do.  Just takes time.

There is a good chance my larger garage,  yet to be built will eventually be finished in a similar way.  

The last house we sold,  I had the garage nice enough,  that a pair of couples were looking at it to buy together.  The problem they kept having was who was going to get the garage space to turn into living space, because it was nicer than the apartment upstairs. 

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I had an unusual experience buying lumber several years ago; maybe about 1980.  I wanted some pine boards to build some shelves with.  I too intended to build the shelves, stain them, and put them up.  I went to a building supply store and told them what I wanted.  I told them small, tight knots were acceptable, large ones that I would have to saw through and maybe have the knot pop out were not.  They showed me some of the sorriest, knottiest lumber I ever saw. 

 

I left there and went to a competitor 16 miles away.  I told an older gentleman there what I wanted and he called a young man in from the storage area.  I wanted boards eight feet long as the uprights would be eight feet and the shelves would be a total of eight feet.  The older gentleman told the young man there were some sixteen foot pine boards in the loft that was the width I needed.  He told him to get the boards out and let me pick out what I wanted and cut them for me.  Then he totally surprised me.  He told him if there was a good eight foot end and a bad eight foot end to cut it in half and give me the good end and lay the bad end back.  Then he said if the only way you can get him a good eight foot long board is to cut it out of the middle of the board do that.  I think I needed sixteen good eight foot boards and the young man very carefully got me exactly what I needed.  Even a time of two when I was going to accept a not so nice board the young man said no, he said to get you good boards and that one is not good enough. 

 

The final surprise was when I went to pay for them and the price was less than half of what the other place wanted for their scraps.  You can bet I appreciated their way of doing business that I made many return trips to their place of business whenever I needed building supplies.  I feel they went far beyond treating me the way customers like to be treated.  You don't forget people like that.   

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On 2/7/2017 at 6:51 PM, auburnseeker said:

 ... I realized it was a clean up day at the mill type of load....  

 

When buying a load of lumber, contractors sometimes

reject parts of the load, or sometimes the entire thing.

 

But, Auburn Seeker, you can use that rough-looking

lumber with pride!  Figure the garage is rustic, and 

just stain or varnish the lumber with all its imperfections.

It's not out of place in a garage.  Call it "character."

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I already cut all the flaws out,  so it won't look to rustic.   Actually rustic is less affordable.  They get 1-2.00 a lineal foot for weathered lumber.   Now I just have to find my sander to get started on the load I have acclimating in the shop.   Since moving my shop ,  I can't find anything tool related.  Parts related , no problem. 

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20 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

I like finished garages.  Unfinished just seems dark and damp.  I'm going to be spending alot of time in their.  I want it to be a place I want to be.  Reasonably cheap to heat, dry and bright with a touch of class.  I like quality fine carpentry and it's not a big deal for me to do.  Just takes time.

There is a good chance my larger garage,  yet to be built will eventually be finished in a similar way.  

The last house we sold,  I had the garage nice enough,  that a pair of couples were looking at it to buy together.  The problem they kept having was who was going to get the garage space to turn into living space, because it was nicer than the apartment upstairs. 

 

I too like finished garages. 

 

The garage at the house is all dry walled and painted a light gray. 

 

My shop which has block walls has all white walls and ceiling plus the pictures etc. on the walls.  I did paint the metal doors a medium/light blue.  Both have lots of florescence lights.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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On ‎2‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 6:19 PM, auburnseeker said:

If you miter it at a 45 it becomes more invisible except the change in grain,  unless you take the time to try to match that.  One of my customers was particular enough,  he would have me do stuff like that. 

In quality wood joinery arranging the grain (not necessarily matching) is often what makes or breaks the project..................Bob

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18 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:

 

I too like finished garages. 

 

The garage at the house is all dry walled and painted a light gray. 

 

My shop which has block walls has all white walls and ceiling plus the pictures etc. on the walls.  I did paint the metal doors a medium/light blue.  Both have lots of florescence lights.

 

Funny about how we need more light in our old age.

Its always white walls, ceiling and floor with many lights for me.

My kids gave me a real bright light mounted on a head harness that I use often as well.

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Part of my reason for wood is the ability to do small sections as I move along the wall.  With all the contents of my old shop stuffed in my new shop,  which was full before I started, Space to work is at a premium.  Being the dead of winter doesn't help either.  Of course if it wasn't winter,  I wouldn't be working on it anyways.  

One problem with metal in my shop is almost every sheet would have to be cut.  If there isn't an I beam in the way there is a window or a door. 

I started sanding boards today,  after I finally found my sander.  Of course in the one tote I didn't check in the loft. 

3 degrees with a wicked well below zero wind chill and the heater barely ran today.  Must be all the insulating is finally paying off. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Went through a similar shop building starting late Summer 2015, most was done by Spring 2016 but still have a few things to do. Had the same problem of most of the contents of the future shop already in the shop. I invested in a bunch of the rollaround furniture movers that Harbor Freight has on sale all the time (wood frame on casters) and also had a couple of large platforms on casters. Piled as much of the heavy stuff that I could on these so they could be moved out of the way as needed.

I had a empty clear span space of about 28'X50' so I split the space roughly in half for finished shop and storage/parking. I spent a lot of time sitting drinking coffee thinking how things would be the most useful. Then did the wall that got most of my tools unpacked and a lot of heavy things put away first, making more space for the next stage.

Didn't go as fancy as yours sounds but I'm happy with the results. Decided to leave open trusses rather than putting in up a ceiling so I could use the extra storage. Here is one of the corners.

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I can't wait until mine gets that far along.  I'm tripping over my piles of signs and such I have stacked in my office now.  I just found my small right angle grinder the other day.  I had been looking for that for a month.  Will be nice to get stuff unpacked one of these days.  

I did buy all new rolling shelves and bins and they have already proven to be a wise investment.  I think they alone set me back $1000. 

They hardwired all the fluorescent Lights in and used them as junction boxes with some wires run along the ceiling between them, so I had to put plugs in for all of them and run new wires to others.  Not to mention taking them down to put the foam up,  then having to take them down again to put the ceiling up.  Seems like everything requires extra work.  Well atleast it will be the way I want it,  when I'm done.  I did run air line all over the garage and outside before I started finishing the walls.  I was trying to think of everything.  I did add a few extra plugs as well.  It's easy to do now.  Much harder later. 

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Look in to led for the shop..

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=led+garage+lights&biw=1246&bih=853&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwioi4SlxYfSAhVKfiYKHdKYDWoQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=xjHBXUx8aYIjkM:

 

I put led in 60 % of the house. It cost more but well worth it..

 

You can buy yellow light or blue light..

 

 

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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Here are some current pictures of the shop and my piles of lumber that I have to sand.  As you can see,  it's a bit cramped.  I think I got atleast 50 boards sanded today.  Only 600 more to go, then a white wash and 2 coats of clear, or a coat of stain and 2 coats of poly.  I'm still experimenting to try to come up with the right white wash finish. 

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16 hours ago, nick8086 said:

Look in to led for the shop..

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=led+garage+lights&biw=1246&bih=853&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwioi4SlxYfSAhVKfiYKHdKYDWoQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=xjHBXUx8aYIjkM:

 

I put led in 60 % of the house. It cost more but well worth it..

 

You can buy yellow light or blue light..

 

 

 

All the lights showing in my shop picture are LEDs from Lowes. They are 4' long and plug end to end if you want continuous lights. I have 7 singles and a double over the bench so far. There was 4 foot fluorescent doubles scattered around the shop ceiling when we bought the place and I moved a few to get more light in the center of the work area and put the LEDs around the edge. My plan is as they die I will replace bulbs but not ballasts and will move fluorescents out of the work area and into the parking/storage area replacing with LEDs as needed. LEDs have come down a lot in price but still pretty expensive to just replace working fixtures. Even with a work space that is always 60-70 degrees the LEDs come on full bright and the florencents take a few minutes to get to full on.

 

Thanks wldavis

 

I bought one section of rolling steel shelves that I use for my Hershey flea stock. Makes it easy to load just roll it over to the door when it is time to pack.

Edited by Jim Bollman
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5 hours ago, Jim Bollman said:

 

All the lights showing in my shop picture are LEDs from Lowes. They are 4' long and plug end to end if you want continuous lights. I have 7 singles and a double over the bench so far. There was 4 foot fluorescent doubles scattered around the shop ceiling when we bought the place and I moved a few to get more light in the center of the work area and put the LEDs around the edge. My plan is as they die I will replace bulbs but not ballasts and will move fluorescents out of the work area and into the parking/storage area replacing with LEDs as needed. LEDs have come down a lot in price but still pretty expensive to just replace working fixtures. Even with a work space that is always 60-70 degrees the LEDs come on full bright and the florencents take a few minutes to get to full on.

 

Thanks wldavis

 

I bought one section of rolling steel shelves that I use for my Hershey flea stock. Makes it easy to load just roll it over to the door when it is time to pack.

I found a supply house.. They are no thrills.. Just the basic  stuff.. but high end stuff..  Neat to see the new stuff..

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