Jim Bollman

I have a contract that I trust, he has been building in the area for 40+ years, but water worries me. The floor will be a full block+ above the footer. He explained his approach for water proofing and it sounds like it should work. He said that the block with have a cement wash and then tar rolled on them allowing the tar to pool on top of the footer to seal the bottom of the block. He will then put the drain tile around on the outside of the block on top of the footer and cover with gravel. Both ends end in a swale that goes along the drive. He is also going to put tar impregnated fiber board of some sort on the outside of the blocks where it will be underground to add more water proofing and a cushion to keep any rocks from damaging the blocks or tar sealer. The building will have gutters emptying into the swale along the drive. A 6" pipe will allow the swale to drain under the apron going into the garage. The side and back grade will be tapered down towards the building then back up to keep water away from wall and sloped to dump any runoff water into the swale. Also plan to have a vapor barrier under the floor. The back and side walls are 12" block that will be filled with concrete with rebar, 8" block in the front. I'm sure the occasional very heavy rain will cause the swale to over run into the drive but it does that now, but it drains into the ground within an hour or so after the rain stops and the floor will be well above the drive so water will not run in. One none drainage concern is there is a 7,200 volt power line above it feeding the house transformer. The building will have a steel roof so I decided it should be grounded so if it ever came down on the building it would blow the fuse out at the road faster and not sit and sizzle for awhile and maybe start a fire in the rafters. Talked to the electrician today and he didn't disagree with the idea. The plan is to put a 200 amp panel in even though I currently only plan it to be a garage not a shop, I already have my shop I just need to get some of the finished projects out of it to make a little more space.

Slow going but progress. With a little luck the mason will show in the morning.

Progress, after a week of a rain then a sick contractor and a digger that was over committed. With a little luck they should start laying block next week.

Looks like they joined to just promote their museum. A quick search shows it in Ohio. Castle Noel 260 S. Court Street Medina, OH 44256 https://castlenoel.com/exhibits/ Seems to be a Christmas park

Just heard from my friend and he said the 55 Vic has been sold.

A friend of the family had a small machine shop and his large compressor was in a little shed attached to the back of the shop, no access from inside. To further keep things quiet, he had the largest air tank I ever saw on the compressor, it appeared to be around 200 gallon or more. For normal air use around the shop the compressor almost never ran. I picked up a couple of 75 lb LP tanks that I had plan to do something similar with and never got around to that project. I gave them to a friend when we moved and he finished the job I wanted to do. He says it works great.

I have lost a radiator full of Evapo-Rust twice now. The first time it found a pinhole in a metal part of the hose system, the second I'm guessing the radiator has a leak that had been clogged with rust and reopened. I think it is doing its job but I will have to try a third time even if I have the radiator rebuilt, it was the engine block I was trying to clean. Luckily it is a Crosley, so the system doesn't hold a lot, but it still made a mess on the floor. Should have learned after the first time to put a drip pan down.

The public can get in on Monday, just don't get in the way.

I seem to remember 10 cents a bottle in the late 50s early 60s during my peak model building years. But then the memory starts to go after all these years.

You might ask the AACA Library if they would be of use for their archive. If they think they are of value and scan them into their archive then they would be available to anyone that is restoring a similar car.

I'm having a new garage built, but in TN you have to have something rare called flat land. Here are the pictures after 4 days of work. 1 day he had to bring in a Bobcat with jackhammer attached and got all the big rocks but one that he found after the place he rented the Bobcat already picked it up. He thinks we can make it work. It is planned at 28'X28'. This not going to be a shop just extra storage and the wife gets her first inside parking place in 54 years. She did have a carport at the previous house. It will have a 200 amp service just in case plans change in the future. Thought I had plenty of place for the free dirt but I'm running out of place. Did make some more flat land along the driveway filling my side of a raven. First picture is from my back porch.

I always like the old garages with that extra facade. Never figured out what the purpose was. There was one in the town next door where we use to live, I did some pre photoshop image editing to make a brass plate for some trophies back in the early 80s.

I hesitated if I should post my strap engine install, with all the negative comments. Much lighter straps and much lighter engine. Front strap is a tie down strap for motorcycles or axle strap for light cars like Crosleys, back, I don't remember where I got. Engine as it is hanging probably around a 100lbs. The straps go around the engine in places they can not slip. The front strap goes through a space in the block, the back is between the flywheel and an offset in the pan. It is a tight fit into the engine compartment and the picture doesn't show rotating the engine a little yet to fit. It is back in and running as of a few days ago. I use to use chains but this worked so well it will be my new system. First time I used a leveler, worked good.

Use to live in the same county as Caswell. They did a demo at a meeting of our then AACA Region. They sure made it look easy. This was many years ago. Thought about setting up a little side business in one of my shop bays. Glad I decided it wasn't a good way to spend my money and time and my shop bay.

Begs for a title Ran when Parked Model T Woody I plan to restore it one of these days

I have a NY EZ-Pass even though I'm now in TN. As I recall I paid something for the two units I have but the only cost is having to have up to $25 in my account for tolls. When ever the account drops below $10 they charge my credit card to bring it back up to $25. I can make any changes to what the plate numbers are that can use it online. Doesn't get used very often anymore since most of the places in the South that I drive has no tolls.

I was talking to my friend that owns this 1955. He said the tires are 40 years old but in excellent shape and he has not been afraid to drive on them but knows that is something many will not feel safe with so he will reduce the price by the cost of a set of new tires if that helps the buyer. I see a person question the color being right. Most of the car is the original paint only some repair work to the front fenders has been repainted.

My Dad use to get some of the dental picks and such from the dentist just by asking, they apparently throw them out on a regular bases. I still have some of them from when I cleaned out his shop. He got hemostats in assorted sizes, back before they were popular flea market knock offs, from the town doctor I think. I mentioned to the woman drawing blood one time that I really liked the self sticking wrap they put around my arm when she was done, that it looked like it would be useful in my shop, she walked over to a drawer and came back with partial roll and gave it to me.

When I first read the title, I thought it would be getting up the drive. That is as much my fear right now as going down. I'm having problems getting the mechanical brakes on a Crosley I have been working on to work well enough that I trust going down my drive but also wondering if I will have enough power to come back up. I have had a couple of different Crosleys make it, but when I get the brakes working they drag too much. Here is a picture of my lower drive. this is where it turns and goes up for another 200-300' with less slope. About 100' total rise. When making this turn going down when there is ice and snow or I'm driving one of my old cars I hope I make the turn because it goes 30' or so down into a ravin. The road end is a deadened road but across the road is more woods and more drop off. I do have a circular drive around the house end of the drive that has some up and down to it too, so I have a test track before I need to try making the big drop.

I thought HPOF allowed some repairs? Only parts of one or both front fenders was repainted and the front upholstery. Since I don't own anything that would be close to HPOF I have never read the rules close.

Sold I am posting this ad for a friend and long time AACA member, that tries to stay away from computers. This is a very nice original car. The first time I saw it I assumed it had been restored. 1955 Ford Crown Victoria Dave purchased this car in 2011 after a long search for a Crown Victoria. The car was stored in a cluttered garage for 30 years. The car had only been driven 749 miles between August of 1981 and when Dave purchased it in 2011, based on the many stickers on the door jamb. It had an easy life in Mobile, Alabama back to 1955. When acquired, the car was not running. The right and left front brakes were missing. The engine pan was removed for cleaning and all brakes were replaced with shoes, wheel and master cylinders and DOT5 silicone fluid. The transmission front seal leaked, so the entire transmission was professionally rebuilt. The exhaust system was replaced with new and N.O.S. parts. The front and left fender showed poorly repaired damage around the headlight. The fender was removed, repaired and broken and a missing trim piece were located at Hershey and replaced. This is a rust-free, unrestored car. It has been driven less than 35,000 miles. The tires are like new, but are 40 years old. The front seat upholstery has been replaced but the rear seat upholstery is original and like new. The radio has been rebuilt. It has power windows and seats. Service manuals and sales brochures included. Some of the pictures show the 1955 TN license plate and plate frame which are not included $28,500. Dave Simmering, Greeneville, TN. Phone Four-Two-Three-639-One-Eight-Fifteen. Leave a message if we are unable to answer.

A friend restored/reconditioned one about 20 years ago. He only lived about 5 mile of country roads from work and still only drove it in a few times. I road in it and there was plenty of room for the 6' 1" owner and 6' me. Lots of rattles, felt like riding in a big can. He put new batteries in it as part of the reconditioning and decided to sell it after a few years while the batteries still were in good shape. As I remember, 35mph was pretty much wide open on the flat.

They have already cashed my check. I almost forgot to send it in one year and don't wait now.

I have given my opinion before but since the decision has restarted, I would rather scroll through a bunch of photos in one thread than open a bunch of links that have one photo. If a photo is being posted asking for info or it is expected to generate comments or additional photos start a new link. Most photos are not immediately identified so if that was a requirement they would not get posted at all or we would have hundreds of threads listed unknown car from 20s.