Car trailer value guide?

[Bhigdog]

Can someone direct me to a used trailer price guide?...........Bob

[padgett]

Suspect a scan of CraigsList would be your best guide. It has a section on "trailers". Locally there is a 2017 "toy hauler for $56k. Also depends on what you want: I have a tow dolly (no license or insurance needed in Florida) and for anything else I go to U-Haul.

[Bhigdog]

Thanks bill. Guess i,ll watch ebay, cl, fb market place to get an idea of the market.....bob

[edinmass]

Go to racing junk.com

 

They have a large trailer section

 

bought my last four used trailers there.

 

 

Remember, there are two types of used trailers........unused low miles units......and beat to death.

Edited October 4, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Will do. Thanx, ed.....bob

 

[61polara]

What I've generally found looking at used trailers is that the sellers are asking very high prices, close to new cost, they need all tires replace and the brakes repaired and many times the lights as well.  Shop around.

[John348]

41 minutes ago, 61polara said:

What I've generally found looking at used trailers is that the sellers are asking very high prices, close to new cost, they need all tires replace and the brakes repaired and many times the lights as well.  Shop around.

 

Agreed! Unless you know or knew the owner I would avoid a used one. Most cases they are used up not used.

 

2 hours ago, padgett said:

(no license or insurance needed in Florida)

  

Seems like Florida is the place to be for many people without a drivers license, and insurance for that matter, after all it is a sunny place for shady people.......

 

 

All kidding aside...... FYI the trailer falls under the liability insurance of the tow vehicle (except for theft and contents),and that is in every state. Unless the tow vehicle is not rated for the GVW, then there most likely would be no liability coverage for both. Not having to insure things is not something to be proud of.  As Bobby Bare wrote:

 

"If you ain't got nothin' you ain't got nothin' to lose"  

 

If that is the case, why be concerned

 

Bob, I am not sure what your looking for but new trailers are not that expensive. If you see a used one and there are cracks on the sides around the fasteners there could be bigger problems then just tires and brakes

 

I

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by John348 (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Actually i,m thinking of selling my 24' haulmark and am trying to get an idea of what to ask for it.....bob

[edinmass]

It’s easy to value.

 

gvw

wheel size

door height 

extras

year

construction of walls
replacement cost

 

post a photo

 

[Robert G. Smits]

I have probably towed over 250K miles and never owned  a new trailer.  Just be patient and take your time.  Have your requirements ahead of time and don't compromise.  You can't believe how shoddy some trailer construction is.  I once looked at a trailer where the tie down brackets were attached to the 1/2 inch plywood floor with wood screws.  I for one don't believe the premium for aluminum is worth it unless you tow vehicle is light duty or you plan on towing frequently. On a 24 ft enclosed trailer I doubt you are reducing the weight by 800# or less.  Your diesel tow vehicle with 800 to 1000 pounds of torque doesn't know the difference.  If you buy used plan on rebuilding the brakes, packing the bearings and new tires.  As an example I paid $9000.00 for my 48 ft gooseneck tri axle in 2009.  It was built in 2005.  Also plan on installing a wench and get the 10-12K model.  Remember that a wench only pulls it's stated load on the first row of winding.  My TCW, others will have different experiences.

 

Sorry, I thought you were looking to buy, not sell

Edited October 4, 2020 by Robert G. Smits
Addition (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

17 minutes ago, Robert G. Smits said:

I have probably towed over 250K miles and never owned  a new trailer.  Just be patient and take your time.  Have your requirements ahead of time and don't compromise.  You can't believe how shoddy some trailer construction is.  I once looked at a trailer where the tie down brackets were attached to the 1/2 inch plywood floor with wood screws.  I for one don't believe the premium for aluminum is worth it unless you tow vehicle is light duty or you plan on towing frequently. On a 24 ft enclosed trailer I doubt you are reducing the weight by 800# or less.  Your diesel tow vehicle with 800 to 1000 pounds of torque doesn't know the difference.  If you buy used plan on rebuilding the brakes, packing the bearings and new tires.  As an example I paid $9000.00 for my 48 ft gooseneck tri axle in 2009.  It was built in 2005.  Also plan on installing a wench and get the 10-12K model.  Remember that a wench only pulls it's stated load on the first row of winding.  My TCW, others will have different experiences.

 

Sorry, I thought you were looking to buy, not sell

Still good info. Thanks..bob

[Bhigdog]

22 minutes ago, edinmass said:

It’s easy to value.

 

gvw

wheel size

door height 

extras

year

construction of walls
replacement cost

 

post a photo

 

Off the top of my head......

2005 24' haulmark. 

10k gvw

Dexter axles

72" door height.

15" wheels

2 side doors. Driver side escape. Off side forward door. 

Winch & power hitch.

Extra wheels and spares.

Receiver, hitch, load levelers and anti sway included. 

New brake shoes two tows ago.

Always under roof.

Tires excellent but trailer tires SUCK.

I would say for the year above average.

Certainly not pristine but just as ceraintly not clapped out.

I take care of my stuff.....bob

 

 

[edinmass]

Without photos..........5-6k

 

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 2005 Haulmark was still good trailer for the era. Better than the cheap junk today you see. If the roof leaks, or other issues would be a deductible. Should sell easy........you need a title or it won’t sell.

[Bhigdog]

Just now, edinmass said:

Without photos..........5-6k

 

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 2005 Haulmark was still good trailer for the era. Better than the cheap junk today you see. If the roof leaks, or other issues would be a deductible. Should sell easy........you need a title or it won’t sell.

Never a leak and currently titled and licenced. Question is whats a fair price. Not a fire sale. Not eating anything.

Thanks for that info ed. Not sure what i want to do. Don,t use it much anymore and yet hate to see it go......bob

[bdc]

23 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

Off the top of my head......

2005 24' haulmark. 

10k gvw

Dexter axles

72" door height.

15" wheels

2 side doors. Driver side escape. Off side forward door. 

Winch & power hitch.

Extra wheels and spares.

Receiver, hitch, load levelers and anti sway included. 

New brake shoes two tows ago.

Always under roof.

Tires excellent but trailer tires SUCK.

I would say for the year above average.

Certainly not pristine but just as ceraintly not clapped out.

I take care of my stuff.....bob

 

 

Bumper pull or gooseneck? 

I personally don't like bumper pull. A gooseneck pulls so much nicer.

[Bhigdog]

12 minutes ago, bdc said:

Bumper pull or gooseneck? 

I personally don't like bumper pull. A gooseneck pulls so much nicer.

 

Category 3 receiver. They both have their pluses and minuses. Life is a compromise.................Bob

Edited October 4, 2020 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[W_Higgins]

40 minutes ago, edinmass said:

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 

 

That's a nominal 6' trailer (actual door openings tend to be a couple of inches less).  I'm not knocking it, but there is nothing exceptional or special order about that.  A Model T needs a minimum 7' door opening to go in with the top up and most horseless carriage types need 8' (or more), so a 72" trailer is pretty much limited to postwar stuff, and even some of those cut it close.  To put it into perspective "shoebox" Ford wagons just barely clear a 70" door opening.  

 

Just food for thought so you (Bob) know who your target audience is -- which you probably already do.

 

 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by W_Higgins (see edit history)

[edinmass]

I find the last 15 or 20 years that many trailers are bought on the cheap, and the door opening is less than the 72 he has. It won’t take a lot of the HCCA stuff top up, but top down would be fine. Also, it would take most CCCA cars.....but the 15 inch wheels and 10k would be a close call. Lots of people are looking for storage more than hauling ability........and the motorcycle crowd tend to buy older, well built units for the Daytona and Sturgis meets. I order my new trailers taller than standard........and never had a close call loading anything till a few months ago. My opening is 79 inches........and my 1917 White fit with a half in of clearance........with the tires half full of air. Too tall is a big wind load and hard on the tow vehicles.........my tag is a 34 foot box.........and I prefer them over the 5/goose neck which we also have. It takes a bit of time to get comfortable with a huge tag.....but you quickly get over it and it’s no big deal. 

Edited October 4, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Bill........I have a 15 T and it’s no where near as tall as my 17 White...........And while I am sure there are one or two exceptions.........I don’t think anything over 80 inches went down the road as private transportation. I think today the real cheap trailers being built have smaller door openings even at “standard” height. It’s really hard to explain to people how poor some trailers being sold are.........they are that bad. Recently a friend bought a 32 foot camper trailer.......half way home from the factory the frame folded and the thing hit the road surface. Nightmare to deal with.......including the DOT investigation and having to have it picked up and placed on a flat bed to get it off 95. 
 

Here is a shot of my White. My door is 79 inches, but the ramp, roof, and beaver tail make for the ability to drive In a car about 81 or 82 inches. The White only had the tires half full of air and were squatting. I had less than a half inch of clearance to the light. 

Edited October 4, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history)

[W_Higgins]

38 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Bill........I have a 15 T and it’s no where near as tall as my 17 White...........And while I am sure there are one or two exceptions.........I don’t think anything over 80 inches went down the road as private transportation.

 

That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that.  There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening.

 

Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers.  They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia.  I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns.  Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future.  You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.

 

 

 

 

[edinmass]

Great! Now I need to take a look at the top on my T. To be honest, it's been down the last five years, and I have not put it in this particular trailer. 

[60FlatTop]

11 hours ago, Robert G. Smits said:

Also plan on installing a wench

Went out to haul a car and we never saw him again, common story in my ancestry. Freudian typo.

[padgett]

Back in the day it was common to make a race car hauler by removing the frame from a tandem axle mobile home, dropping the axles about 6" and creating a floor. Towed nice at 70 with a Corvette on back.

 

Used to to move from Indiana to Texas. Household was quite a load and axles bent on first corner. Jacked up and welded flat plate sliders that we greased to maintain camber. Made it to new home outside Austin at 50mph eventually. (I like warm climates in no-income-tax states).

[Bhigdog]

44 minutes ago, W_Higgins said:

 

That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that.  There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening.

 

Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers.  They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia.  I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns.  Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future.  You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.

 

 

 

 

 

That's my trailer's twin except mine is a dark metallic green. Same doors, ramp, door latches, etc. Yeah, good advice about keeping it. I should take it out just to excercise it..........Bob

[SC38dls]

Ed what do you pull that 34 tag with? 

[Graham Man]

This is what they are selling for new... I just snagged the first one

 

https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/trb/d/brokaw-new-enclosed-car-trailer/7193015938.html

 

[Robert G. Smits]

1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:

Freudian typo.

Thanks Bernie.  I would like to blame it on "auto correct"  but in this case it is "bob incorrect"

[edinmass]

My Pace is six years old........much better than what they build now. I had issues with warranty items. The trailer frame is overbuilt and heavy duty.....the box, not so much, and it’s their mid level line. The problem with the cheap trailers, is they are really cheap. It’s sad, but unless you dump 15-18 grand for a new premium unit, your going to be fixing and sealing with issues today.

[edinmass]

1 hour ago, SC38DLS said:

Ed what do you pull that 34 tag with? 

I have a GMC 3500 Crew Cab Dually, Duramax with the Allison. For 25 years it was a 7.3 Ford Powerstroke. We have smoked two new Duramax motors in the last 24 months. All the 3500 series trucks are having issues hauling heavy. I would prefer a 450 or 550 truck, bot don’t want to deal with the scales.

Edited October 4, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history)

[edinmass]

The fifth wheel 48 foot box.

[SC38dls]

Have you looked into the transponder pre-pass system trucking firms use?  Don’t know if private trailers are acceptable but might be worth checking instead of another engine. 

[Paul Dobbin]

I had a 20' Horton Hauler with two 5500 lb Dexter Torqueflex axles,

4  wheel electric brakes, with inside beaver tail floor.  A really strong trailer that towed like a featherlight.  When I offered it for sale a guy drove 350 miles to get it to make a mobile kitchen out of it.  He built them for a living and knew how tough they were.  $3500.

We used it for 10 trips, FL to NC in 2012 to move our household and

barn/shop contents.  Moved 5 collector cars with our open Aluma aluminum car trailer.   I have some regrets of selling the Horton Hauler

because it was an extra garage space too.  If I had kept it, it would

have probably become a wood shop.  (But mountain side parking

space is at a premium.)

 

 

 

[Marty Roth]

9 hours ago, Robert G. Smits said:

Thanks Bernie.  I would like to blame it on "auto correct"  but in this case it is "bob incorrect"

 

Bob,

 

In the old days I may have been wound up by a wench, 

but I wind up my winch.

[deaddds]

Just asking, but is there a specific brand new worth investing in? Is it a weight class thing or a manufacturer that has good quality up and down its product line? 

[edinmass]

It’s more a money thing.....if your not spending 10 grand......it’s probably junk, and the 10k isn’t a grantee it’s decent.

[Joe in Canada]

I have a Wells Cargo and very happy with it. Check the difference in things like does it have door seals, aluminum gauge, stud centers, is the loading door going to bend with a heavy car or door heavy weight lift with a high door, exterior hardware going to rust. If it has rear loading jacks or torsion suspension also is a must for me. Is there a good barrier separating the aluminum from the steal. A few things to consider when buying a GOOD trailer.    

Edited October 5, 2020 by Joe in Canada (see edit history)

[alsancle]

I've had my eyes open for a 22-24 footer,  preferably aluminum but must have the heavy duty axles and 16" wheels.    That last little requirement seems to eliminate 95% of all trailers.

 

Ed has beat in to me that you need the commercial wheels for heavy Classics and will blow tires left and right with the 15" consumer wheels.

Edited October 5, 2020 by alsancle (see edit history)

[SC38dls]

Not only 16 inch wheels are important but the tires must be very good tires. Don’t buy normal 6 ply trailer tires make sure they are at least 10 ply. It’s been a while since I’ve hauled horses around the country so there may be even better tires today but my point is buy the best tire possible it will pay dividends. 
 

[edinmass]

6 hours ago, Joe in Canada said:

I have a Wells Cargo and very happy with it. Check the difference in things like does it have door seals, aluminum gauge, stud centers, is the loading door going to bend with a heavy car or door heavy weight lift with a high door, exterior hardware going to rust. If it has rear loading jacks or torsion suspension also is a must for me. Is there a good barrier separating the aluminum from the steal. A few things to consider when buying a GOOD trailer.    

 

 

I had three new Wells trailers, all special order, all auto wagons, all built extra heavy..........they were great units, but one had the frame crack.......it was an easy fix. Fact is, you need to keep an eye on every trailer....even the good ones. I find today a less expensive trailer........like my Pace........is fine....since it has a 21k gvw and I'm only putting in 4-5 k max.......the three axels are fantastic for much better stopping power, and if you get a flat, you can just pull the bad tire off with a electric impact, toss it in the bed, and get going in under a minute. I never change tires on the side of the road anymore......just too dangerous.

[padgett]

Just an opinion but "at least 10 ply" is "Load Range E" and both Maxxis and (now) Goodyear make good trailer tires. I have installed both a wireless camera and wireless TPMS with a psi and temp readout on all tires (had to go to 802.11 to get the range needed). Also if you want to upgrade and existing trailer, Dexter makes good axles.